The Do-it-Yourself Thread: A Home for Handymen and Artisans - General

Well, shit. Looks like the LCD assembly was doa and my phone wont power up. With the old screen it powers up, but in the process of removal, I cracked the lcd and theres no picture. DOUBLE SHIT.

[QUOTE=ToastedBread;46825772]Well, shit. Looks like the LCD assembly was doa and my phone wont power up. With the old screen it powers up, but in the process of removal, I cracked the lcd and theres no picture. DOUBLE SHIT.[/QUOTE] Damn that sucks, which LCD did you crack, your good one? Phones are a fickle bitch to work on, especially screen adhesive.

Nah, I cracked the original broken one that still had picture during the initial removal. I bought and LCD, digitizer, and backlight assembly. There's no way I would've been able to separate LCD and glass successfully. :v: the I also noticed that the little flat connector wouldn't click into place, so that might be the problem. The good news is, I actually ordered a second one and it's coming tomorrow. Out of randomness though, I ordered a white bezel, so it may look cool or shit. heh. Wait, it powered up, but the connection is definitely bad. I'm getting vertical but no horizontal and it looks like there is a tear in the lcd in the bottom left corner. ugh. Gonna return this one.

[QUOTE=Ajacks;46823755]I was just basing what I read off a HVAC forum talking about that same model and they were talking about it being a brushed motor, but I'm actually thinking the motors not original, as it doesn't match the age of the furnace, it's this motor, a GE 5kh39qn5514at, [URL]http://www.grainger.com/product/GENERAL-ELECTRIC-Motor-3K111[/URL] Yeah the motors not original, it's a 2000's motor. [editline]30th December 2014[/editline] What kind of banana clips? I've been trying to find a good deal on some locally and haven't been able to, always way to expensive. Get this, Guitar Center didn't have plain speaker wire, what the hell is that about? I need an insulation megger to test this coil on the motor. I hope my brother in law has one, he should, he's a industrial electrician who works with motors, I just hope he has a personal one that I can borrow. The flukes run about $700.[/QUOTE] [URL="http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-High-Quality-Copper-Speaker/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420000253&sr=8-1&keywords=monoprice+banana+plugs"]I bought a five-pair set of Monoprice gold-plated clips on Amazon for $10.[/URL] They're copper-cored, tips are ferromanganese. They seem to do a pretty good job, but I don't have the testing equipment to really verify that. They get good reviews, though, so I'm sure they're better than the bare aluminum wire that I was using. Anyway, I've always found Guitar Center a bit overpriced and understocked. It might just be the one I go to, but I can never find what I'm looking for when I go. You'd think a music store would have a decent condenser microphone. If you're looking for speaker wire, and you're not running ridiculous distances, I'd try the Amazon Basics stuff. It's copper-clad, but almost all the research I've done outside of ultraniche audiophile forums seems to say there's very little difference between them under 20'. Little more resistance, but it sounds and tests pretty much the same.

That's a great price, 5 pair of similar ones at lowes is $26. I'll have to buy some of those, I love me some Monoprice. Also, oddly enough a lot of 'audiophiles' use lamp cord for their wires.

[QUOTE=Ajacks;46826627]That's a great price, 5 pair of similar ones at lowes is $26. I'll have to buy some of those, I love me some Monoprice. Also, oddly enough a lot of 'audiophiles' use lamp cord for their wires.[/QUOTE] Yeah, I've seen that... Don't really get it. Then again, if it's cheap and scores the same, go for it. I just bought 50' of zipper wire for $10, so I'm fine for the next few years at least.

It's just all about the gauge really, wire is one of those things that as long as your gauge is good, you're not going to be able to tell a difference.

[img]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/motor_zpsf49fecf9.jpg[/img] [img]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/motor2_zpsbdfd3445.jpg[/img] Pictures for pictures sake. Breaking apart and cleaning the split phase 1/3hp furnace blower motor. I took it apart, cleaned and relubed it but it still fails to get spinning on it's first phase, it whines and gives up, never getting enough spin to activate the internal centerfugal switch that switches the starter coil off, kicking in the main coil. I'm assuming that with ah ohmmeter I would have been able to test it out, but all that would do is say "yep, you're right it's fucked" and I'd still have to get a replacement since getting a motor of this size rewound is not worth it. So I ordered a new one, same specs but ball bearing this time. Only $85. Very fun breaking apart the motor and putting it back together. I advise anyone to do it because it helps you understand what's happening.

Screen replacement was a success! Admittedly, it looks kinda frankensteinish with a white bezel, but I'll just say it's a mod. :v: I have to say, next to screen removal, applying tape was a bitch and a half. And easily the worst part.

[QUOTE=Ajacks;46829779][img]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/motor_zpsf49fecf9.jpg[/img] [img]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/motor2_zpsbdfd3445.jpg[/img] Pictures for pictures sake. Breaking apart and cleaning the split phase 1/3hp furnace blower motor. I took it apart, cleaned and relubed it but it still fails to get spinning on it's first phase, it whines and gives up, never getting enough spin to activate the internal centerfugal switch that switches the starter coil off, kicking in the main coil. I'm assuming that with ah ohmmeter I would have been able to test it out, but all that would do is say "yep, you're right it's fucked" and I'd still have to get a replacement since getting a motor of this size rewound is not worth it. So I ordered a new one, same specs but ball bearing this time. Only $85. Very fun breaking apart the motor and putting it back together. I advise anyone to do it because it helps you understand what's happening.[/QUOTE] Now you've got a few pounds of uninsulated copper wire, some magnets, and a bunch of general electronic stuff. Any idea what you're doing with it?

[QUOTE=woolio1;46830724]Now you've got a few pounds of uninsulated copper wire, some magnets, and a bunch of general electronic stuff. Any idea what you're doing with it?[/QUOTE] It's lacquer covered wire, it'd take hours to uncoil and clean it (or if you hate the world, burn it) I might just set it by the barrel and let a scrapper take it.

[QUOTE=woolio1;46830724]Now you've got a few pounds of uninsulated copper wire, some magnets, and a bunch of general electronic stuff. Any idea what you're doing with it?[/QUOTE] There actually aren't any magnets in an induction motor, the opposing magnetic field is generated by the alternating current in the motor poles themselves. :eng101:

[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/9oogr5V.jpg[/thumb] The white bezel is kinda dumb, but whatever. :v:

electrolysis! It creates a piss yellow compound, not sure what though [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/2015-01-05%2016.02.28.jpg[/t] and gases, which are [URL="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolyte#Electrochemistry"]chlorine and hydrogen[/URL]. I might try lighting the bubbles on fire on a safe location [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/2015-01-05%2016.02.40.jpg[/t] [editline]5th January 2015[/editline] they made a little pop, I'll have to try this on a bigger setup and a way of capturing the gas!

[QUOTE=scratch (nl);46861494]electrolysis! It creates a piss yellow compound, not sure what though [/QUOTE] That'd be sodium hydroxide, which is pretty dang caustic depending on how much salt you used in the electrolysis, so don't get it on you. Pouring it down the sink is also pretty shitty for the environment but probably no worse than drain cleaner. hope you had good ventilation because you probably lost a few brain cells huffing chlorine :v: [editline]5th January 2015[/editline] more boring health and safety stuff if you're interested (you probably arent unless you are a heath/safety nerd like me :v:) : [url]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lye#Safety[/url] [editline]5th January 2015[/editline] And you didnt hear it from me, but if you really want to make hydrogen, [url=http://www.twinsburg.k12.oh.us/Downloads/example%203.pdf]this[/url] is probably a better reaction for you, it will make hydrogen more efficiently and wont throw off that shitty chlorine. [editline]5th January 2015[/editline] please dont light yourself on fire I would feel really bad :(

Timebomb you make me want to play with toxic things.

[QUOTE=Ajacks;46862080]Timebomb you make me want to play with toxic things.[/QUOTE] god damnit Ajacks you're just like everyone at work "Guys we really cant mix these two things in the waste drums because they could react and blow the seals" "Wow, the reaction would generate enough pressure to blow the top off the drum?" "Yeah definitely, you'd also proabably lose an arm or someth- DONT EVEN THINK ABOUT IT"

[QUOTE=Timebomb575;46861755]That'd be sodium hydroxide[/QUOTE] Sodium hydroxide is clear. The main stuff produced are chlorides and oxides of the electrode material unless you use something fancy like platinum or carbon, electrolysis of sodium hydroxide works quite a bit better. Also electrolysis is a great rust remover.

[QUOTE=Chryseus;46862143]Sodium hydroxide is clear. The main stuff produced are chlorides and oxides of the electrode material unless you use something fancy like platinum or carbon, electrolysis of sodium hydroxide works quite a bit better[/QUOTE] sodium hydroxide isnt nessecarily what's generating the piss color but it is what's being produced assuming he was doing NaCl electrolysis

[QUOTE=Timebomb575;46862191]sodium hydroxide isnt nessecarily what's generating the piss color but it is what's being produced assuming he was doing NaCl electrolysis[/QUOTE] Electrolysis produces a huge amount of products, NaOH is one of the lesser ones compared with hydrogen and oxygen gas, I've run electrolysis for hours using carbon electrodes with only a minor decrease in pH. [img]http://www1.lsbu.ac.uk/water/images/electrolysis_3.gif[/img]

[IMG]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/Fix_zpsd8c26ad8.jpg[/IMG] Fix of the day, got my new large motor start capacitor in the mail today and fixed my $5 Kenmore 10-cup food processor. For anyone wondering, if your food processor just hums and doesn't spin all it needs is a new capacitor. Mine cost $4.50 on eBay. I'm in it for under $10 and I'll sell it for $35. Easy fix, new capacitor didn't quite fit so I had to modify the inside a bit but it works like a charm. Old cap is pictured, new one was so much better quality. The old one felt like it was filled with cardboard. Just sold it for $30, not bad. Only took about five minutes to fix it and a few more to spiff it up.

I've used powerful pool cleaning acid and old sanded down zinc pennys to make hydrogen before. I had the acid and zinc in one jar, that had a lid with a little tubing ( fish tank air line ) that went into the bottom of another jar that had water in it. To make the gas less acidic. Then from that water jar I had a tube that went and filled up balloons. Which I then let float around as I hit them with a flame and they exploded... indoors. I was young(er). Times were different.

[QUOTE=Chryseus;46862143]Sodium hydroxide is clear. The main stuff produced are chlorides and oxides of the electrode material unless you use something fancy like platinum or carbon, electrolysis of sodium hydroxide works quite a bit better. [B]Also electrolysis is a great rust remover.[/B][/QUOTE] that's what I was trying with this setup. I'm not sure if I removed the rust, but the previously rust covered areas turned black on the screws I was doing it with. [editline]6th January 2015[/editline] even though, my goal has now shifted to hydrogen because woo explosions (I'll take my precautions and do it outdoors ofcourse)

Depending on how bad the rust is it can take a few days to properly remove.

Got myself a toy today. Kirby Risk sold it to me at their employee discount rate after I returned the 117. I'm a happy camper. [img]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/christmas_zpsd3be3bf3.jpg[/img]

I have not even played a CED. I'm not even done repairing it. I've already broken it! :suicide: So my CED player needs some TLC to put it lightly. While I was trying to get things working properly I left the turntable out of alignment and a metal eject rod couldn't move. The force of the motor caused a pivoting piece of plastic to shear off. [IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/IMG_7789.jpg[/IMG] It's thermoplastic. You can't epoxy it back together. It's the same problem that fucked me over on my betamax player which STILL is not repaired. The solution was to carefully drill out the old plastic peg and substitute in a steel pin. My goal diameter is 3mm and the neck of a wood screw worked. Epoxy was set on either end so that while it won't grip the thermoplastic the epoxy will bond to the pin and hold it in place. [IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/IMG_7791.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/IMG_7792.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/IMG_7793.jpg[/IMG]

Looks like a good fix but damn that'd frustrate the hell out of me.

it seems really difficult to get chemicals here in the Netherlands. Most bottles of cleaning stuff etc that you can find in stores have like no description at all of what's inside the bottle. At best it's about the group of chemicals the contents belong in. I just want to electrolyse without having to order shit from the internet (or use salt :v:)

[QUOTE=scratch (nl);46897345]it seems really difficult to get chemicals here in the Netherlands. Most bottles of cleaning stuff etc that you can find in stores have like no description at all of what's inside the bottle. At best it's about the group of chemicals the contents belong in. I just want to electrolyse without having to order shit from the internet (or use salt :v:)[/QUOTE] You're not looking in the right places. I'd start by contacting a local school or university, see who supplies their chemistry or lab supplies. From there, contact the company and see if they do retail sales.

Most common chemicals can be found on ebay quite easily.