The Do-it-Yourself Thread: A Home for Handymen and Artisans

[thefreemann]

I see, aren't these from China though? I've heard the quality sometimes can be a hit or miss.

Also for that first one, I'd still have to buy a spindle motor right? Which one would I get?

[Ajacks]

Anything in that price range would be from China, I wouldn't be scared off, you just need to research on CNCzone and stuff before hand, see who people get the best experience from. Like for Spindles and VFD's for example, you can buy a 2.2kw watercooled spindle and VFD for $400 from China, thousands of people buy them and use them and some have issues, but not enough to worry and plenty of people have perfect experiences with them and considering an Italian made spindle and a Fuji VFD would cost you $3000+ it's a pretty clear choice for the non-industrial application.

As far as spindles, I don't know much about mini-mill sized ones. Depending on your materials you want to cut you could get by with a cheap trim router from a big box hardware store even.

[woidoi]

salvaged the electronics from some night vision goggles (a shitty toy, not a proper one) and printed a part to increase the distance from the lens to the sensor.

The result: a surprisingly good microscope!

the setup with a screw in front of it
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/2015-07-20 20.23.58.jpg[/t]

the resulting image (phone camera decreases the quality a small bit) with one of the screw threads in focus

[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/2015-07-20 20.23.45.jpg[/t]

I can print a bigger tube for a larger zoom if I want, I think some proper housing has more priority. The current magnification is around 20x, depending on how much the lens is extruded at the end (as by default it has a thread to focus)

[Zombie Man70]

Is there a good way to hollow out fluorescent lights?
Plan on doing something like this by putting LEDs in the tubes.
[video=youtube;xlcywgEMuGI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlcywgEMuGI[/video]

[editline]21st July 2015[/editline]

Fucking mercury would be my main problem

[Papkee]

Just buy some frosted acrylic tubing. It'd be more expensive but you couldn't accidentally poison yourself.

[editline]21st July 2015[/editline]

[URL="http://www.eplastics.com/1-000-OD-X-750-ID-X-72-P-95-Frosted-Tubing"]Like this[/URL]

[Metallics]

[QUOTE=Zombie man70;48258632]Is there a good way to hollow out fluorescent lights?
Plan on doing something like this by putting LEDs in the tubes.
[video=youtube;xlcywgEMuGI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlcywgEMuGI[/video]

[editline]21st July 2015[/editline]

Fucking mercury would be my main problem[/QUOTE]

And getting into the ends without shattering the tubes, the mercury is unlikely to be a hazard in a well ventilated area, although if you're doing quite a few the exposure might add up?

[Zombie Man70]

[QUOTE=papkee;48259775]Just buy some frosted acrylic tubing. It'd be more expensive but you couldn't accidentally poison yourself.

[editline]21st July 2015[/editline]

[URL="http://www.eplastics.com/1-000-OD-X-750-ID-X-72-P-95-Frosted-Tubing"]Like this[/URL][/QUOTE]

I want this to look as real as possible and I would need to buy the caps for each end... I will definitely look into this though thank you

[editline]21st July 2015[/editline]

Over $400 bucks makes me wanna risk dying from fucking around with mercury

[Rivindtre]

[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFJDzakr8jA[/media]

Setting up my forge and starting to make a metal snake figure.

[TheTrainRider]

[QUOTE=Zombie man70;48260893]Over $400 bucks makes me wanna risk dying from fucking around with mercury[/QUOTE]
I don't think mercury poisoning works like that. You'd probably make yourself really sick and suffer from long term consequences before you end up dying.

IMO non-legal non-professional non-medicinal opinion, theres no safe way to do this, but if you set up a cardboard box [URL="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fume_hood"]hood[/URL] to move fumes [b]up[/b] and [b] away [/b] you might be able to minimize damages to yourself, but your neighbors might want to have a word with you about chemical hazards.

The smarter thing to do (if you feel that keeping chemical hazards in your house doesn't count) would be to just set up the LEDs [b]behind[/b] the tubes with spacers & black caulking in between to hide any light bleed.

Also, Cheers for posting that RATATAT video. Never really kept up with them and that music is bumpin.

[The0nly0ne]

First post! Lots of very cool stuff in this thread.

I have a few project builds, mainly game related. This is an arcade cabinet I built based on a Vewlix design (Japanese sit down machine). A lot of the original machines had a single player control panel. I may build another when space permits so I can go 2 player.

[URL=http://s218.photobucket.com/user/SpaceHedgehog/media/Large%20Vewlix_zpsoxgg15xm.jpg.html][IMG]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/SpaceHedgehog/Large%20Vewlix_zpsoxgg15xm.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

This is the original, commercial version:

[URL=http://s218.photobucket.com/user/SpaceHedgehog/media/VewlixOrig_zpscnvatchk.jpg.html][IMG]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/SpaceHedgehog/VewlixOrig_zpscnvatchk.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

I do the artwork myself including the 'Insert Coin' sticker here on the Control Panel:

[URL=http://s218.photobucket.com/user/SpaceHedgehog/media/WhiteButtons_zpskzjqdmsb.jpg.html][IMG]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/SpaceHedgehog/WhiteButtons_zpskzjqdmsb.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Close up of the control panel - I used thin aluminium strips each side for a more interesting finish:

[URL=http://s218.photobucket.com/user/SpaceHedgehog/media/NewCP2_zpsnajeauvn.jpg.html][IMG]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/SpaceHedgehog/NewCP2_zpsnajeauvn.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

I had a customised badge made for it:

[URL=http://s218.photobucket.com/user/SpaceHedgehog/media/TE%20Badge_zpsz7csrgwl.jpg.html][IMG]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/SpaceHedgehog/TE%20Badge_zpsz7csrgwl.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Face on:

[URL=http://s218.photobucket.com/user/SpaceHedgehog/media/Vewlix%20Large%202_zpshhqbnl35.jpg.html][IMG]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/SpaceHedgehog/Vewlix%20Large%202_zpshhqbnl35.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

I designed a more modern look and feel for the game selection interface:

[URL=http://s218.photobucket.com/user/SpaceHedgehog/media/Main%20Selection%20Final_zpszvpovgcm.jpg.html][IMG]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/SpaceHedgehog/Main%20Selection%20Final_zpszvpovgcm.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Here's a video of it:

[video=youtube;DR1m2ueZLQk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DR1m2ueZLQk[/video]

[Ajacks]

Did you fabricate the cabinet itself? What materials is it made of?

[The0nly0ne]

[editline]16th August 2015[/editline]

[QUOTE=Ajacks;48471522]Did you fabricate the cabinet itself? What materials is it made of?[/QUOTE]

Yes, all made by hand. I used the following materials:

MDF Sheet - 18mm, 12mm and 6mm
Aluminium strips
Wood strips
Screws
Cast acrylic (clear and opal)
Artwork (paper and vinyl)
Leveling feet
4.1 sound system running dual stereo
Sanwa stick and buttons
Hacked XBOX pad
High impact polystyrene
Blackboard vinyl
Speaker grilles
Paint and varnish

End of edit.

Before I go through this build, let me start by saying that before I began on these project, I didn't have any experience in woodworking. For my initial construction (a MAME arcade cabinet) I borrowed the necessary tools and just jumped straight in.

This project is another of several I've completed; the [B]R-Pod MKII [/B]racing sim rig. This was a significant step up in terms of complexity from the Vewlix cabinet and took around 350 hours to finish. This took some basic aesthetic principles from the Vewlix in terms of angles and bevels. I also experimented by including more complex panel structures. I'd never tried anything like this before and was very pleased with how it turned out.

The rig includes a number of features not initially apparent, namely integrated LED lighting and the inclusion of 4 Buttkickers. I use Simvibe software to drive these - it takes telemetry information and converts it into tactile feedback at the body contact points namely the pedals, the seat and the gear shifter.

The rig uses Fanatec ClubSport equipment and has a hacked Derek Spear button box used for the dashboard control button layout. I've also tried to include a number of accessories to add other points of interest.

I still need to include 3 screens (or VR when I can afford it) and another larger Buttkicker/amp for the purpose of simulating large bumps and collisions.

A simple relatively simple toolset has been used - a router, jigsaw, drill, power driver, a couple of clamps and a small workbench.

The finishing was done by hand with extensive use of several materials which I'll cover in the pictures below. Looking for and integrating intersting materials is one of the aspects I enjoy most about these builds.

If you like the look of it and are still interested, I'd urge you top watch the video as I feel it gives a much better representation of the build as a whole.

The completed rig:

[URL=http://s218.photobucket.com/user/SpaceHedgehog/media/AlmostComplete_zpse5919a52.jpg.html][IMG]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/SpaceHedgehog/AlmostComplete_zpse5919a52.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

A close up of one of the side panels. This uses 18mm and 12mm MDF board with automotive mesh, aluminium bar inserts with grey vinyl underneath to provide some contrast:

[URL=http://s218.photobucket.com/user/SpaceHedgehog/media/FlatBlackFrontCloseup_zps7b4c0112.jpg.html][IMG]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/SpaceHedgehog/FlatBlackFrontCloseup_zps7b4c0112.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

For the right side of the seat, I designed some simple artwork and used 3mm cast acrylic to protect it. Mesh and vinyl have again been used. It also shows the bucket seat side mounts which sit on seat rails for adjustability:

[URL=http://s218.photobucket.com/user/SpaceHedgehog/media/RightSeatDone1_zpsdc81ee3b.jpg.html][IMG]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/SpaceHedgehog/RightSeatDone1_zpsdc81ee3b.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

The shifter side pod includes a design consistent with the main side sections an used fine ribbed rubber sheeting in the upper window. The extinguisher is for a bit of fun:

[URL=http://s218.photobucket.com/user/SpaceHedgehog/media/ShowCase8_zpsf097cf37.jpg.html][IMG]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/SpaceHedgehog/ShowCase8_zpsf097cf37.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

The inside of the pod has a recess with leather vinyl material and an access hole. This allows me to easily change the shifter between its H-pattern and sequential functions:

[URL=http://s218.photobucket.com/user/SpaceHedgehog/media/ShowCase6_zps4c6bb359.jpg.html][IMG]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/SpaceHedgehog/ShowCase6_zps4c6bb359.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

The top panel is covered in leather vinyl material:

[URL=http://s218.photobucket.com/user/SpaceHedgehog/media/Leather3_zpsdef678a6.jpg.html][IMG]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/SpaceHedgehog/Leather3_zpsdef678a6.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Underneath, I bolted a 4mm aluminium plate to the seat and attached 2 Buttkickers. These send vibrations through the metal frame of the bucket seat - it works extremely well:

[URL=http://s218.photobucket.com/user/SpaceHedgehog/media/ButtKickerSheathing_zpsfc77e628.jpg.html][IMG]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/SpaceHedgehog/ButtKickerSheathing_zpsfc77e628.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

At the front of the rig, I attached a custom designed badge and a tow hook. It also shows some of the fitted LED lighting:

[URL=http://s218.photobucket.com/user/SpaceHedgehog/media/Lighting2_zps5238c017.jpg.html][IMG]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/SpaceHedgehog/Lighting2_zps5238c017.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

For the dashboard panels, I used real carbon fibre and included 2 Neutrik ports on each side:

[URL=http://s218.photobucket.com/user/SpaceHedgehog/media/LeftPanel1_zps7502f810.jpg.html][IMG]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/SpaceHedgehog/LeftPanel1_zps7502f810.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Using a hacked button box, these were mounted to the left and right sides of the wheel. The left side includes rotary dials and toggle switches. You can see the top of the dash has also been covered in leather vinyl material which took about 2 hours alone to cover:

[URL=http://s218.photobucket.com/user/SpaceHedgehog/media/FinalDash3_zpsdc534e07.jpg.html][IMG]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/SpaceHedgehog/FinalDash3_zpsdc534e07.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

The right side includes ignition and starter buttons:

[URL=http://s218.photobucket.com/user/SpaceHedgehog/media/FinalDash4_zpse50e0757.jpg.html][IMG]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/SpaceHedgehog/FinalDash4_zpse50e0757.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Since the initial build, I've also added a DashmeterPro display for useful race related info:

[URL=http://s218.photobucket.com/user/SpaceHedgehog/media/DMPFitted1_zpsvkrcksc1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/SpaceHedgehog/DMPFitted1_zpsvkrcksc1.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Here's a walkaround video of the cabinet:

[video=youtube;RsgAQQIorJU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsgAQQIorJU[/video]

A very comprehensive build log is here:

[URL="http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/12145-r-pod-mkii-custom-dashmeterpro-mount-added/"]http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/12145-r-pod-mkii-custom-dashmeterpro-mount-added/[/URL]

[Ajacks]

Absolutely fantastic build log, I read through your R-pod MKII log and what you've got done for your C-Pod. Very impressive work and especially with such a limited work space. I'm sitting here debating if I want a 8 or a 12" Jointer and you're building such beautiful things with just power hand tools.

[The0nly0ne]

[QUOTE=Ajacks;48471883]Absolutely fantastic build log, I read through your R-pod MKII log and what you've got done for your C-Pod. Very impressive work and especially with such a limited work space. I'm sitting here debating if I want a 8 or a 12" Jointer and you're building such beautiful things with just power hand tools.[/QUOTE]

Yes, simple tools for my simple skills! I guess I just try and compensate with as much patience as I can muster.

[Ajacks]

Have you thought about using 3D modeling software to prototype your designs out ahead of time?

Also I see you're using Buttkicker hardware, I've got a BK1000 amp and three LFE's, If you were looking for a cheaper alternative for applications in your chairs that don't need as much kick, the AuraSound AST-2b-4's are a great value, and I've also had a chance to feel the Dayton Audio TT25-16 puck transducer which is a freakin steal at under $20 a pop. Not what I'd want to be moving an entire chair, but for something like a shifter or pedal transducer I would think it's just the ticket.

[The0nly0ne]

Yes, I've certainly thought about using 3D software. I think it's definitely the way to go for an arcade machine or similar but for something like the R-Pod or the CP-1 (aka C-Pod), it'd be quite a challenge. I had to re-adjust the latter about 3 times before I got the ergonomics right - that involved a lot of re-cutting and shaping of the wood. For those types of projects, it's free-styling all the way tbh :smile:

My initial scrawl design for the CP-1 looked like this!

[URL=http://s218.photobucket.com/user/SpaceHedgehog/media/InitialDesign2_zpscdb187f2.jpg.html][IMG]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/SpaceHedgehog/InitialDesign2_zpscdb187f2.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Not too dissimilar to how it looks now:

[URL=http://s218.photobucket.com/user/SpaceHedgehog/media/HeadrestSideOn_zpswoeaigbk.jpg.html][IMG]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/SpaceHedgehog/HeadrestSideOn_zpswoeaigbk.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

I'm intending to get my 3D modelling skills up to scratch though as there are a couple of smaller projects I'm keen to do and it would definitely help.

Thanks very much for the heads-up on the AuraSound - Looks like they're expensive to buy in the UK but much, much cheaper importing from the States on eBay. May have to give those a go.

I have the BK1000 also. I made a unit for it which I still need to finish up (fan is to keep me cool during race sessions):

[URL=http://s218.photobucket.com/user/SpaceHedgehog/media/AmpRack1_zps6f85698c.jpg.html][IMG]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/SpaceHedgehog/AmpRack1_zps6f85698c.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

If you were interested in following the CP-1 construction, there's a build log even longer than the R-Pod one here:

[URL="https://forums.frontier.co.uk/showthread.php?t=43192&p=789003#post789003"]https://forums.frontier.co.uk/showthread.php?t=43192&p=789003#post789003[/URL]

[Ajacks]

Oh I've already read through the 60+ pages of that. You're logs are very entertaining. Just curious, what do you have in the works after you've got your CP-1 finished?

[The0nly0ne]

Thanks for that. The next couple of projects will likely be a pinball controller (not a cabinet unfortunately, I don't have the space) and a console for an iphone / ipad. Smaller endeavors but should be fun.

[Ajacks]

Spent the day cutting cinderblocks and concrete as I'm repairing and renovating my basement for a shop. I blew through three garbage 7 1/2" masonry discs using the circular saw. Tomorrow for the rest of the job I'm spending the cash and picking up a diamond cutting wheel from Harbor Freight. Anyone have any experience with them? Also I'll be building a shed in two days, going to buy a temporary cheap metal one from lowes for $279, 9x10 that will tie me over for storage of outdoor stuff like mowers and shovels till I can get a garage built, I figure I can just sell the shed for a $150 or something after a few years. Anyone built a kit metal shed before? I've already got a new slab for it.

I spent a lot of time chipping away at concrete with chisels and hammers today and I have a greater respect for ancient stone masons, I also have no idea why the ancient aliens believers can't fathom how an ancient mason was able to make precise stone cuts. I was able to make pretty flush nice smooth surfaces the first day using a chisel, I can't imagine how efficient and precise someone who spent a lifetime doing it would be.

[Metallics]

[QUOTE=Ajacks;48519828]Spent the day cutting cinderblocks and concrete as I'm repairing and renovating my basement for a shop. I blew through three garbage 7 1/2" masonry discs using the circular saw. Tomorrow for the rest of the job I'm spending the cash and picking up a diamond cutting wheel from Harbor Freight. Anyone have any experience with them? Also I'll be building a shed in two days, going to buy a temporary cheap metal one from lowes for $279, 9x10 that will tie me over for storage of outdoor stuff like mowers and shovels till I can get a garage built, I figure I can just sell the shed for a $150 or something after a few years. Anyone built a kit metal shed before? I've already got a new slab for it.

I spent a lot of time chipping away at concrete with chisels and hammers today and I have a greater respect for ancient stone masons, I also have no idea why the ancient aliens believers can't fathom how an ancient mason was able to make precise stone cuts. I was able to make pretty flush nice smooth surfaces the first day using a chisel, I can't imagine how efficient and precise someone who spent a lifetime doing it would be.[/QUOTE]

Not sure what the weather is like in your area, but cheap metal sheds in the UK are very prone to condensation forming on the inside so your tools get damp and rust

[TheTrainRider]

[QUOTE=metallics;48525381]Not sure what the weather is like in your area, but cheap metal sheds in the UK are very prone to condensation forming on the inside so your tools get damp and rust[/QUOTE]

The clear solution to this is to use some form of sealant around the edges and then fill the room with silica packets like the ones you find in your shoes.

You're going to need a lot of shoes for this project, I reckon....

(or perhaps wait around for a thrift shop dehumidifier find and hook it into a light timer, putting a hole in the collection basin to have the water drain outside the shed via hose)

[Ajacks]

I've read that properly caulked and sealed they are as weather tight as a wood shed properly sealed. I think a lot of people skip out on caulking and weather stripping since it's optional.

Got my diamond concrete cutting blade today, $30, hopefully it cuts through concrete like butter, I'll find out shortly.

Something about renovating or any major house project means you spend about $150 every time you go to the hardware store.

[TheTrainRider]

In my experience no project is complete until you've visited home depot at least twice, any project that manages without such a series of journeys is destined to be mediocre.

[fartparty]

i'm moving into my friend's apartment this weekend, i'm taking the livingroom so i'll have pretty much no privacy at all

i'm thinking of building a wall. it'd have to be free-standing, since i'm obviously not allowed to actually build a new room. it'd also have to be pretty well balanced, because i'm planning on adding a rod to hang my clothes on. the problem is, it'd also be really light because the walls will just be fabric stretched over a frame

here is my plan so far

[img]http://i.cubeupload.com/mC8Epc.png[/img]

anyone see anything wrong with it?

[TheTrainRider]

What wood pieces are you actually using? 2x4's? Plywood?

Don't use any candles anywhere near it whatever you do. Don't want to create a tinderbox with your room.

[fartparty]

i've got no idea, i'll be using whatever i can find at home depot

[editline]26th August 2015[/editline]

most likely 2x4's

[roflcakes]

Can you put the rod through 90°? Attach it to Wall B and the actual wall of the house to make it structural. As for walls, if you're serious I'd build frames out of 2x2 with cross braces and screw thin sheets of ply to it.

[woolio1]

Hey, this is still alive. Neat!

[TheTrainRider]

I would try a 2"x4" frame in the shape you drew above, with shower poles in between each strut, and blankets tossed over the shower poles. I don't think you'd need as many struts at you would in a permanent wall, but I am not saying it'd work either (and I'm not responcible for any damages that might occur). Using blankets is definitely a good idea because A: This is temporary and using blankets to fill space will lead to less material to deal with at the conclusion of your internment, B: It isn't an actual "wall" per-say, so you might be able to get the landlord on board with it, C: It'll look better with less paint to pay for, let alone actually paint.

[Ajacks]

Boy, I enjoy plumbing because I can do it myself and save a pile of money, but damn does it suck to run a whole new line from the water main, with new shiny brass gate valves and everything mounted in place and sound, only to have an old valve in the line in a section you were not working on to suddenly start leaking because you turned it on and off a few times during working. I'm off to Menards to buy more PVC to do a proper trap for a washer drain.