The Do-it-Yourself Thread: A Home for Handymen and Artisans - General

[QUOTE=DrDevil;49032460]You write smart, I read vulnerability.[/QUOTE] And I write luddite. Seriously, nobody's going around hacking people's LED bulbs. This kind of rampant paranoia isn't helping you or anyone else.

[QUOTE=Serj22;49030514]Well, let's see. Water weighs about 62lbs per cubic foot. 10x10x5 = 500 cubic feet 500x62 = 31,000lbs. So, let's just ask a simpler question, what do you believe that is cheap, that will hold back 31,000lbs. Cheaper swimming pools use some posts that nail into the ground and do a pretty decent job at that. Something like plywood is right out, unless you want to reinforce the sides of it to the bottom, and then tie it all together with a few cargo straps to help it reinforce itself against the water. Also, plywood comes in 8x4, so you'd have to custom order the bottom and two sides, or just utilize a joint in the wood, then cover it with a sufficient amount of plastic to line, or bituthane or some other waterproof material. What exactly are you trying to make?:[/QUOTE] It's a water tank for some testing. It actually probably only needs to be like 6x4x4 actually, but at any rate I realize it's a lot of water. I'm not trying to push under 100$ but I'd like to not spend hundreds on it if possible.

how about you just dig a hole, line it with plastic and do your testing. When you're done just get a truckload of dirt dropped off to fill it back in?

Because it needs to be moved around

Hm... Yeah, I think what we're all trying to say is that what you want to do is impossible. You can either build yourself a solid, sturdy box and waterproof it, or you can dig a hole. The first will potentially cost a lot more than you're willing to spend, the latter can't be moved. So... I guess you should really consider upping your budget, or reconsidering your idea, because your current situation doesn't work.

[QUOTE=woolio1;49032571]And I write luddite. Seriously, nobody's going around hacking people's LED bulbs. This kind of rampant paranoia isn't helping you or anyone else.[/QUOTE] Yeah, just like all those bluetooth vulnerabilities that never got exploited for fun and profit.

I think that's a little bit different, considering Bluetooth devices are usually mobile, while lightbulbs really aren't. Seriously, you're overthinking this.

[QUOTE=thefreemann;49032723]It's a water tank for some testing. It actually probably only needs to be like 6x4x4 actually, but at any rate I realize it's a lot of water. I'm not trying to push under 100$ but I'd like to not spend hundreds on it if possible.[/QUOTE] Look up 1000+ gallon plywood aquarium builds. You can do it, but it's not going to very cheap.

Why's it have to move? You'd have to build it on a full on trailer frame to support 4 tons of water. If you could just use a pool you could do the whole thing for $50, just buy a used pool off Craigslist, and toss it when your done. [t]http://s4.postimg.org/qkepsbj25/00c0c_c6_WUBYKRa_RA_600x450.jpg[/t] That's for sale locally for me for $50, and it'd be around 4500 gallons.

[QUOTE=woolio1;49033912]I think that's a little bit different, considering Bluetooth devices are usually mobile, while lightbulbs really aren't. Seriously, you're overthinking this.[/QUOTE] Seeing how smart devices are usually connected to the internet it's not far fetched to have a script scanning random ip addresses to see if a smart device replies. I mean, just check out the cars with the entertainment systems that can be hijacked through the internet to take over control of the entire car, including the steering wheel.

Okay, now I know you're overthinking this... Thanks for derailing the conversation, though. That was great, really. I really enjoyed that. I'm sure everyone else did too. :suicide:

Two questions. At work we've got an old laser cutter and the aluminium honeycomb bed is starting to look a bit shite - i.e. carbon build up inside the cells and the walls are looking a bit damaged as some idiot dragged the material off the bed which warped and tore the aluminium wall. I clean the honeycomb bed about once a month by soaking it in warm water and washing up liquid. While it used to clean off the majority of the grime inside the honeycomb wall there's still a lot of build up. I was wondering if anyone can recommend a more suitable/powerful cleaner to remove the carbon build up. Secondly we got a quote for a new honeycomb bed which was £130! The laser bed isn't huge, only coming in at 600x300mm, is there a reason as to why it costs so much? Is the aluminium coated with some special crap that justifies the cost? Or could I just buy this [URL="http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/core-materials/aluminium-honeycomb/6mm-aluminium-honeycomb.html"]honeycomb mesh[/URL] and cut it down to size?

[QUOTE=Ajacks;49034009]Why's it have to move? You'd have to build it on a full on trailer frame to support 4 tons of water. If you could just use a pool you could do the whole thing for $50, just buy a used pool off Craigslist, and toss it when your done. [t]http://s4.postimg.org/qkepsbj25/00c0c_c6_WUBYKRa_RA_600x450.jpg[/t] That's for sale locally for me for $50, and it'd be around 4500 gallons.[/QUOTE] Thanks And I when I said move, I didn't mean WITH the water in it. It would empty of course lol. Why would I keep it in there? :v:

If you legitimately think I'd let the bulbs be accessible over the internet you're kind of silly.

I don't suppose I'd be able to enlist the assistance of one of you crafty folk? I'm trying to figure out a desk design that'd give my computer airflow, while muffling the RIDICULOUS AMOUNT OF NOISE IT MAKES. My case has a fuckton of fans in it, so when I get gaming it gets pretty noisy.

Do you have them all hooked up to a fan speed controller? I used to have a HAF932 loaded with fans, every possible fan I could fit. It sounded like a turbine and when I built my next computer I built it in a sound dampened Fractal Define XL and it's crazy quiet.

[QUOTE=Ajacks;49054164]Do you have them all hooked up to a fan speed controller? I used to have a HAF932 loaded with fans, every possible fan I could fit. It sounded like a turbine and when I built my next computer I built it in a sound dampened Fractal Define XL and it's crazy quiet.[/QUOTE] Most of the case fans are silent. It's mostly the CPU fan that gets loud when it spins up. The case fans have toggles that I can change the speeds for. The biggest problem is that because there's so many fans, combined with an open side, the noise from the CPU fan just fills the room.

You don't have a case door on it?

[QUOTE=kyle877;49054702]Most of the case fans are silent. It's mostly the CPU fan that gets loud when it spins up. The case fans have toggles that I can change the speeds for. The biggest problem is that because there's so many fans, combined with an open side, the noise from the CPU fan just fills the room.[/QUOTE] You need an enclosed case. Airflow just doesn't work if you don't have a mostly-sealed environment.

[QUOTE=woolio1;49056131]You need an enclosed case. Airflow just doesn't work if you don't have a mostly-sealed environment.[/QUOTE] It's got a mesh-side case with a large fan mounted on it. The front and the top have two large intakes, as well, so a lot of noise slips through from the CPU fan.

I'm looking for a flexible armature that can support a load of up to 3 pounds. I thought of using one of those flexible gooseneck things from a desk lamp but I did some research online and apparently they can't support that much weight at the length I need. What do you guys recommend? Is there a thing for this?

[QUOTE=Ardosos;49067267]I'm looking for a flexible armature that can support a load of up to 3 pounds. I thought of using one of those flexible gooseneck things from a desk lamp but I did some research online and apparently they can't support that much weight at the length I need. What do you guys recommend? Is there a thing for this?[/QUOTE] Look for a drafting table lamp from the last century. All of them had a large light fixture on the end, and the arm is made up of large brackets, with wing nuts, so you move it into the position you want, tighten it, and you're done. Some had weight bearing springs so you just moved it into position and that was that. [IMG]http://www.deserres.ca/data/Products/Photos/FR/standard/Source/37123_1_NTN122-1.jpg[/IMG]

Or get a monitor arm... Those can hold up to five pounds.

Just bought myself two Christmas presents. A Sawstop Professional Series 52" Cabinet saw, and a Millermatic 252 MIG welder. Had to get some purchases in before the end of the year so of course I waited till the last 48 hours. Since I'm officially a furniture mfg business I'm now tax exempt on all machinery that aids in production of a final product. Feels good.

I wanted a crossbow so I made one. [IMG]http://i.cubeupload.com/RkHZNo.png[/IMG] Around 150lb draw weight. Bow/Prod is 2 fiberglass tension bars tapered and laminated together and bound in hemp, stock is oak, trigger is a car jack handle, release nut is laminated unknown hardwood. No power tools aside from a drill. Total build time was 1.5 months.

Over the summer I started designing a bookshelf, mostly because I missed the feeling of planning out a project, start to finish. I didn't have a whole lot of free time then, however, and now that my job can accommodate spending time on a project like this, it's too damn cold to do it out of my garage. But this is what I drew up: [t]http://i.imgur.com/Ro52wZq.png[/t] (I apologize for the low quality of the scan, but you can make out pretty much everything. Also, I prefer paper and .5mm lead to digital.) When it warms up, I'll get started on it, since I already have a full sheet of 3/4" oak plywood from the last bookshelf I designed four and a half years ago, but I wanted to see if you guys see any glaring issues, have any tips, or really just any comments. Like I said, it's been four and a half years since I did this last, so I may be forgetting something. Also, if you have any questions, ask away. And if you want to build it yourself, by all means, go for it.

Doing a bit of steam bending at work... [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/vhmckiPh.jpg[/thumb] After planing the cedar wood my workshop smells fruity now.

I still need to figure out how to bend plywood at home... I feel like if I got that set up, I could start working on some chair designs I've been toying around with.

[QUOTE=woolio1;49536813]I still need to figure out how to bend plywood at home... I feel like if I got that set up, I could start working on some chair designs I've been toying around with.[/QUOTE] At work we rarely do traditional steaming. This was the second time I've ever done wood steaming, and at work they've only done it a handful times. That wood there was 66mm wide, 900m long, and was steamed using a stovepipe silk steamer. It had to be done this way as the end product, a hedgehog home, had to go outside and withstand the weather. Depending on the size, I'd highly recommend looking into flexible plywood. We use that a lot now, just for ease and time constraints. We make up a former in high density blue foam, cut the plywood to size generally layering up two different thicknesses, and cut a veneer to size. We glue all the layers together, tape and cable tie it to the former and fit it in a bagpress. (Esentially a thick plastic bag with a vacuum pump attached which sucks the air out holding the layers tightly in place.)

[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/34886768/Pictures/Projects/20160113_122156.jpg[/t][t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/34886768/Pictures/Projects/20160113_122207.jpg[/t] Been making this little guy at work, just got to weld it all up and figure out how I'm going to paint it