How much did you pay for it? Sounds sick. I still think I need a wheel gun next so probably a Chippa Rhino but the Kimber looks good to me too. I wanted something inbetween a Glock 19 and my BG380 for a CCW. Slighty bigger than the BG380 with more balls I could easily conceal under a jacket during the winter even with a bigger frame handgun but not as big as a G19. I was gonna get a Glock 26 but I'll probably never buy another Glock after this whole ordeal I went through.
Also I definitely need to polish the chamber on my KSG. It's what's causing my sticky ejection, it's rough to the touch and I can definitely see how it would interfere with extraction.
[QUOTE=mastoner20;49066190]So... Gatpunch.... I'm thinking it's IPSA time again here soon....
I gots a new toy...
[t]http://i.imgur.com/lPQgmuF.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
purrrty
[QUOTE=CodeMonkey3;49067448]How much did you pay for it? Sounds sick.[/QUOTE]
$600 on sale, new in box. Thanks, Academy Sports.
[QUOTE=Whibble;49067527]$600 on sale, new in box. Thanks, Academy Sports.[/QUOTE]
Uuuhhh god. I have to pay ridiculously high premium prices on everything I buy because I live in NY and my only gun store in the tri-county area is Gander Mountain. That same gun would cost me $900 without any sales or anything.
[QUOTE=CodeMonkey3;49067448]How much did you pay for it? Sounds sick. I still think I need a wheel gun next so probably a Chippa Rhino but the Kimber looks good to me too. I wanted something inbetween a Glock 19 and my BG380 for a CCW. Slighty bigger than the BG380 with more balls I could easily conceal under a jacket during the winter even with a bigger frame handgun but not as big as a G19. I was gonna get a Glock 26 but I'll probably never buy another Glock after this whole ordeal I went through.[/QUOTE]
The S&W Shield and the XDs are good choices for semis. As far as revolvers go, even with the flat sides on the cylinder, the Rhino is still pretty chunky. I'd grab a S&W or Ruger for that. As far as revovlers go with caliber, you are better off getting one rated for 38 +P over a full 357. You don't gain much for the 357 loads other than recoil.
I have XDs 4.0, it's about as long a a G19, so the standard 3.3" would work for you.
Personally, if i was gonna carry a revolver, I'd love to get either a S&W M10 with a 3" barrel, or a Colt Police Positive in 38spl. Both are just a sweet spot for size to me.
[QUOTE=Lone_Star94;49067554]The S&W Shield and the XDs are good choices for semis. As far as revolvers go, even with the flat sides on the cylinder, the Rhino is still pretty chunky. I'd grab a S&W or Ruger for that. As far as revovlers go with caliber, you are better off getting one rated for 38 +P over a full 357. You don't gain much for the 357 loads other than recoil.
I have XDs 4.0, it's about as long a a G19, so the standard 3.3" would work for you.[/QUOTE]
Well, the Rhino isn't really for CCW but I guess I could use it for that. I just want it because it looks like a gun from Blade Runner or something and I want a wheel gun in my collection. After all the headaches I've had with my handguns I want a gun that's not a semi-automatic for a change.
But I really like that Micro Kimber for my 'winter' carry gun. Seven plus one, .45 and it's relatively small compared to say a Shield or an XD which feel a little chunky to me. The XD has about the same proportions of a Glock 19 and the Shield just doesn't feel very compact to me.
If you do get a Rhino, I hope you can find one without the ugly rails and a barrel longer than 2". Seems like the 2" is all the stores carry in my area, if a rhino is available.
I want the snub nose one though. My local gun shit has them and if not I can order one.
[t]https://i.gyazo.com/e05fb44d180dac7d34c1e58cc2f97f5e.jpg[/t]
[editline]7th November 2015[/editline]
I also fixed another gun problem today. I think. I gotta test it first. My BG380 wasn't always locking back on the last round. At first I figure I was holding the slide lock under my thumb but I changed the way I shoot my BG380 and I know I'm not anywhere near it and the last round will fail to lock the slide or worse case the last empty shell will get stuck while ejecting probably because the slide didn't lock back the way it needed too.
Turns out all I had to do was bend the top part of the spring a bit to apply enough pressure to actually articulate the slide-stop. I did this to one mag and compared them side to side with a stock one. The stock magazine just BARELY catches the slide. With the spring bent it seats the slide stop firmly into the recess.
So I'm pretty sure that was it. Worn in/weak spring not applying enough pressure on the slide-stop to actually stop the slide reliably.
[t]https://i.gyazo.com/04128f5a4e06b82880c66119316f1b28.png[/t]
[QUOTE=CodeMonkey3;49067448]How much did you pay for it? Sounds sick. I still think I need a wheel gun next so probably a Chippa Rhino but the Kimber looks good to me too. I wanted something inbetween a Glock 19 and my BG380 for a CCW. Slighty bigger than the BG380 with more balls I could easily conceal under a jacket during the winter even with a bigger frame handgun but not as big as a G19. I was gonna get a Glock 26 but I'll probably never buy another Glock after this whole ordeal I went through.
Also I definitely need to polish the chamber on my KSG. It's what's causing my sticky ejection, it's rough to the touch and I can definitely see how it would interfere with extraction.[/QUOTE]
I'd recommend against buying a Rhino. They're extremely shoddily assembled, very fragile, and hilariously over-complicated. The manual legit tells you to not even think about disassembling it because theres no way youll get it back together
[t]http://gunsumerreports.com/Chiappa_Rhino_60DS/Chiappa_Rhino_Exploded_View.JPG[/t].
It's a sound design on paper, but a lot of the parts are of garbage quality so it has a lot of issues with parts cracking and breaking from normal use. The hammer on the gun is a "false hammer", in that it's not the actual hammer that strikes the firing pin. It uses a bunch of complicated mechanisms to cock the actual hammer, but that mechanism is really fucking fragile, so they tend to break.
On the Rhino I owned, the cylinder hinge formed a crack in it and it caused the cylinder to have some sway in it. So whenever you closed it, it would knock against the frame and chip and scratch it.
Not necessarily a bad design, but shitty Chiappa manufacturing is the downfall of the Rhino.
Any reason I shouldn't buy a Marlin XT-22M? I want a .22 Mag bolt gun and they're pretty cheap nearby. I like the profile.
Holy fuckity-fuck. Shot my AR today, and how in the fuck have I not built/bought one of these before now? A can of 420 gone in the matter of two hours. I adjusted the rear iron in my house without a bore sight and hit my first shot without readjusting at all in the field. Put my dot on backwards (lul, thanks Kamwi) and still shot just off to the left by a click. Put it back on the proper way and readjusted the positioning and I was nailing the rocks at 110yds without a problem and picking off the small cardboard ammo separators from the can at about 15 feet without readjusting. $1k very well spent, got-damn.
Now all I need for Christmas is a sling mount and some 5.56 cans.
[QUOTE=mastermaul;49072460]Any reason I shouldn't buy a Marlin XT-22M? I want a .22 Mag bolt gun and they're pretty cheap nearby. I like the profile.[/QUOTE]
Because the Savage 93 is better.
I don't really enjoy shooting my AR. I'm glad I have it but it's not much fun to shoot compared to my old bolt guns/shotguns/pistols. Pretty much quit shooting it and the 22s.
[QUOTE=DaCommie1;49073058]Because the Savage 93 is better.[/QUOTE]
By what metric?
it's lighter and imo looks better. not much else. savage has nice triggers, I haven't had a marlin in years and don't remember what the trigger was like
Savages are made 2 hours from me and I'm biased.
But yeah, other people covered the real reasons already.
[QUOTE=butre;49073351]it's lighter and imo looks better. not much else. savage has nice triggers, I haven't had a marlin in years and don't remember what the trigger was like[/QUOTE]
Triggers are good enough (3.5lbs-5.5lbs), uses a cross bolt safety though, so YMMV. I own a 795 made a few years ago and it's pretty good for what it is. A cheap 22 rifle with a heavier barrel than most at the price point. I would personally inspect the chamber though. The "Remlins" that people are not too happy about appear to be isolated to the lever guns, but never hurts to inspect the rimfires, even if they are the only good product Marlin is making today. If you're spooked, there is always the Ruger bolt actions or Pruss's favorite CZ rifles.
[QUOTE=Inplabth;49074042]I owned a newer Marlin in .22 mag for a while and the action was nice and the trigger was on par with Savage but the accuracy was sorely disappointing.[/QUOTE]
I have a Marlin 880 I've used for years with a cheap Simmons 4x scope and I never feel uncomfortable with the gun. I can plink away at cans at 25 or rocks at 100 with it. Accuracy has never been a problem with this gun for me once I learned I was a southpaw (it was my first gun and a right-handed bolt).
safeties are good on bolt guns and semi-autos but god I hate them on lever guns. a half cock notch and a bit of common sense is plenty safe.
Psft. I'll take a Glock safety (or lack there of) over the safety on my Enfield. Took me forever to figure out where that fucker even was the first time I accidentally turned it on.
What Enfield do you have that the safety was unintuitive? I found it obvious on both of mine.
It's the same for all. But when bubba welds a picatinny to the receiver that catches the top of the lever for the safety and the thing rusts in place partially at the bushing it starts to blend in with the rest of the metalwork. When you pull it back on mine it's impossible to get back to the firing position.
[QUOTE=mastoner20;49074458]welds a picatinny to the receiver[/QUOTE]
D:
Got a CZ452 here. From an accuracy and trigger point of view it's the best gun I've ever fired.
[QUOTE=PrusseLusken;49075855]I'd heartily recommend a CZ 452 or 455 to anyone looking for a good bolt action rimfire. Great guns. Triggers sometimes need a little help (18 dollar yodave kit), but they are very very accurate (anschütz level) at half the price of a decent target gun. buy a heavy barrel one (american model for example) and you've got a rimfire rifle outshooting you for years.
[editline]8th November 2015[/editline]
my 452 lux (extra long barrel) gets 7mm groupings at 50 metres with 5 cci standard rounds in .22lr, as an example.[/QUOTE]
I don't see many CZs around, and I've got the feeling that finding one in .22 WMR would be even more difficult.
Cabelas does have "CZ"s in the sense that they're Crvena Zastava CZ99 rifles imported by century arms, which are pretty cheap.
Does anyone know of a decent long eye relief rimfire scope I could put on my 10/22's scout rail?
So I polished the chamber on my KSG last night. I didn't have any empty shells to gauge how much to do. I took it out today and shot it and noticed a big difference but not 100% yet.
Now that I got spent shells I dropped them into the chamber and they're extremely tight and if you seat them completely the ONLY way to remove them is with a pair of pliers or something.
It looks like the chamber needs to really be honed and polished big time.
[QUOTE=CodeMonkey3;49076649]So I polished the chamber on my KSG last night. I didn't have any empty shells to gauge how much to do. I took it out today and shot it and noticed a big difference but not 100% yet.
Now that I got spent shells I dropped them into the chamber and they're extremely tight and if you seat them completely the ONLY way to remove them is with a pair of pliers or something.
It looks like the chamber needs to really be honed and polished big time.[/QUOTE]
Is it still under warranty? I would call Keltec and have them take it and fix it.
I don't wanna.
I'll lose the thing for weeks and it costs $75 shipping to FFL it to them because NY and I have to prove I'm the original owner of the gun to get the warranty and I don't think I have my receipt anymore anywhere so I rather just fix it myself.
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