Firearms XII; Because Merica - General

Extended rail + very big muzzle brake = bad idea [img]http://i.imgur.com/eQ3Db3X.jpg[/img]

[QUOTE=PrusseLusken;47608654]and source on that pic?backstory?[/QUOTE] Source: [url]http://www.reddit.com/r/guns/comments/33zuq0/this_popped_up_on_my_feed_shooter_adds_a_muzzle/[/url]

[QUOTE=Grenadiac;47607963]I have a 1906 SxS shotgun (pictured on the first page of this thread) that I've always run plastic shells through, but they tend to swell and jam the extractor, requiring some rough handling of the gun, so I don't shoot it as often as I'd like to. Would brass shells be "correct" for this gun? I don't know anything about brass shotgun shells.[/QUOTE] Have you tried using high brass shells, ones where the brass goes farther up the hull than just a small rim? Also, are you sure it's 2.75" and not 2.5", I've heard some of the older ones were.

[QUOTE=DaCommie1;47609961]Have you tried using high brass shells, ones where the brass goes farther up the hull than just a small rim? Also, are you sure it's 2.75" and not 2.5", I've heard some of the older ones were.[/QUOTE] Careful with using high brass, in my experience those are often pretty hot loads and a gun from 1906 is not likely to be completely safe with such loads. I'm not even certain it is completely safe with normal loads.

[QUOTE=DaCommie1;47609961]Have you tried using high brass shells, ones where the brass goes farther up the hull than just a small rim? Also, are you sure it's 2.75" and not 2.5", I've heard some of the older ones were.[/QUOTE] It chambers any 12 gauge shell I put in it up to 3", so I don't think it cares. After firing, the plastic hull swells up enough that it jams the extractor unless you crack it open with extreme prejudice. I suspect the seal is not perfect between the hull and the chamber, allowing it room to swell. [QUOTE=GunFox;47609991]Careful with using high brass, in my experience those are often pretty hot loads and a gun from 1906 is not likely to be completely safe with such loads. I'm not even certain it is completely safe with normal loads.[/QUOTE] 1906 is the year this manufacturer (Parkhurst) switched from damascus barrels. It's interesting because the "receiver" (I don't know the term) is made the old way, and the barrels are machined. It's safe, but I don't want to take chances, because this gun is sentimental to me as the first gun I bought.

This didn't even occur to me. I'll have to take a good long look at it today. I should say I've never noticed the hulls opened weirdly like that. It doesn't do it every time, either, mainly with cheap ammo and thin plastic, which is why I guessed it was swelling outwardly.

[QUOTE=PrusseLusken;47610194]or maybe you're shooting 67, 70, 76mm shells in a 65mm chamber..? you can fit longer ones in, but the shell length is actually measured as the length it is when shot, fyi.. [IMG]http://www.hunter-ed.com/or/or_specific_images/graphics/or_wrong_shell_size.gif[/IMG] don't necessarily have to blow up. but the stickiness could be caused by it going to far into the cone and being harder to pull out (as the extracting starts when you break the shotgun).[/QUOTE] I learned this through experience. I figured if my old Baikal single was chambered for 2.75", a 3" wouldn't fit. I learned that was not the case when the forend came off after the second shot. It thankfully went right back on, and the shells ejected fine, but I was worried I'd busted it.

Okay, inspection confirms what I thought - this gun doesn't even have a forcing cone, let alone a choke. It's just a straight smoothbore. The barrel is only slightly narrower than the chambers and there's no smooth gradient, it's just cut in.

Nah, there's no marking on it relating to what it's supposed to take. I only know it's a 12 gauge because that's what fits snug. No indication as to the length, but the way the chamber's cut, a 3" wouldn't fit if it wasn't intended to. It's near impossible to get a decent picture of the chamber. I'm trying. Hang on

[QUOTE=Grenadiac;47612031]Nah, there's no marking on it relating to what it's supposed to take. I only know it's a 12 gauge because that's what fits snug. No indication as to the length, but the way the chamber's cut, a 3" wouldn't fit if it wasn't intended to. It's near impossible to get a decent picture of the chamber. I'm trying. Hang on[/QUOTE] I guarantee a shotgun from 1906 was not built for 3" shells. Those didn't really start gaining popularity until the '80s.

[t]http://i.imgur.com/u4FZCWz.jpg[/t] You can see it's just totally straight bored. The chamber was just bored a little wider, no cone. I'm guessing it was intended for brass shells, not paper, because brass shells can be loaded without crimping them by using a type of glue to cap it.

Also have you checked underneath the barrel for calibre markings? Baikal stamps their guns under the chambers in such a way that the barrels need to be off to find the stamp.

I don't. I only shoot light lead target loads, which are usually made of really cheap plastic that, I'm guessing, expands after being fired and jams the extractor. I have looked at all the markings on the gun extensively, there's no caliber markings, only proofs. If it wasn't intended to take 3" shells that means the chambers were probably just eyeballed :v:

I generally shoot 2 3/4" Winchester target ammo. I have chambered but not fired 3" shells since I don't want to take any pointless risks. Federal target shells are what (seemingly) expand and jam the extractor. The Winchester shells don't have any problems. They sometimes take a bit more force to pull out, but they've never stuck the gun closed like the Federal ammo does. This is as big a concern to me as it is to you, so I don't shoot it often. That's why I want to start hand loading light black powder loads in brass cases.

Are the rims of the target shot brass or aluminum? If they're aluminum, try brass. It's not likely the plastic, it's likely the rim.

The Winchester is brass and the Federal is aluminum, but I've also used Winchester aluminum rims and those haven't jammed it.

PA Micro Dot came in today. [img]http://i.imgur.com/tTKiYXZh.jpg[/img]

Man, I want the Waffen Werks AK74 now more than ever because of the price drop. I have the money, but I'm 6 months away from being 18 and would have to convince my dad to let me ship it to an FFL. He's a little under educated with guns and thinks AKs are too loud for some reason. At least he did well and bought me a Ruger 10/22.

so the rear trunnion buffer tube retainer and conversion kit came in for my M77 from Classic firearms. And of course, it doesn't fit. The retainer doesnt fit into the trunnion properly, the hole isn't drilled in the right place in the retainer, the buffer tube doesn't even thread into the retainer, and the fucking compensater isn't even the right size for the barrel threads. Shit like this is why "Made in America is dead". Can't even make a piece of aluminum to spec.

With that many issues I'd hazard a guess that your gun might be at least partially at fault. [editline]27th April 2015[/editline] Ahaha my paycheck will let me buy one of the $500 AK74s but it will not arrive until after the sale ends o cruel world

I only buy shit like this with money I actually have

Indiana is about to legalize SBS's in a week. If the governor doesn't veto or refuses to sign it, it will become law. WOO!

[QUOTE=SpookNuke;47613141]so the rear trunnion buffer tube retainer and conversion kit came in for my M77 from Classic firearms. And of course, it doesn't fit. The retainer doesnt fit into the trunnion properly, the hole isn't drilled in the right place in the retainer, the buffer tube doesn't even thread into the retainer, and the fucking compensater isn't even the right size for the barrel threads. Shit like this is why "Made in America is dead". Can't even make a piece of aluminum to spec.[/QUOTE] You got this package? [url]https://www.classicfirearms.com/m77-stock-adapter-aluminum-for-ar-15-stock-mini-kit-w-muzzle-break-grip-and-screw[/url] You could try the ACE M77 adapter: [thumb]http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz66/Dferg10/B79C41BD-9FC5-458C-842C-CA4294371109_zpsuryvv78t.jpg[/thumb]

[QUOTE=Grenadiac;47613170]With that many issues I'd hazard a guess that your gun might be at least partially at fault. [/QUOTE] Naw, I'd trust an AK receiver to be made to spec in a Military factory before I would expect a piece of American manufactured aluminum to be made to spec. The piece doesn't even fit the fucking buffer tube in properly. Its the wrong size in every regard. [editline]27th April 2015[/editline] Whats better is that ClassicFirearms won't take it back because the anodizing is chipped a bit. Last time I buy some of their inhouse bullshit. [editline]27th April 2015[/editline] [QUOTE=MAC21500;47613405]You got this package? [url]https://www.classicfirearms.com/m77-stock-adapter-aluminum-for-ar-15-stock-mini-kit-w-muzzle-break-grip-and-screw[/url] You could try the ACE M77 adapter: [thumb]http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz66/Dferg10/B79C41BD-9FC5-458C-842C-CA4294371109_zpsuryvv78t.jpg[/thumb][/QUOTE] Thats my next stop.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/k7sc98h.jpg?2[/img] i finally got my can of 1080 problem solvers for 20 cents per solved problem just waiting for my SRVV Jetbrake to arrive now

[QUOTE=PrusseLusken;47612054]you could always use a caliper with a depth measure, as in nr. 7 here: [t]http://www.craftsmanspace.com/sites/default/files/free-knowledge-articles/vernier_caliper_parts.jpg[/t] and see what you get until the edge?[/QUOTE] If you don't own a caliper, no matter what you do, you should fix that. Especially if you shoot semi-regularly and start to run into issues.

[QUOTE=mastoner20;47614226]If you don't own a caliper, no matter what you do, you should fix that. Especially if you shoot semi-regularly and start to run into issues.[/QUOTE] I use a cheap $15 harbor freight digital one and I love it. Fantastic value. I couldn't live without it.

Exactly. Also, back to diagnosis. Is it a semi or pump action? Sorry, the gun itself doesn't ring a direct bell to me. If it's semi, it could be low brass shots. My 9200 sucks at extracting low brass when loaded in the proper 2-3/4 (it's a 3" gun). Same could be said of pumps, I guess, if the brass is packed further into the shell, but I have never experienced it personally with a pump or similar action.

It's just an old dime a dozen side by side (not that I don't fuckin adore it) with an extractor. If the extractor can't move, the gun won't break open. For whatever reason, some shells are getting stuck in the chamber after firing, which blocks the extractor and makes it difficult to open the gun without potentially damaging it with brute force. I'm just trying to figure out if handloading brass shells will solve the problem.

Next time you use that ammo, take a sharpie or metal dye and cover the metal base of the shell before you fire. It can at least mark where it's hanging up when you extract it.