[QUOTE=DPKiller;47845942]I store my moss berg model 870 super mag all camo in my truck, I decided to take it out and look it over and their is a SHIT TON of light surface rust EVERYWHERE.
I know for sure when I last cleaned it I used a heavy amount of Hopes 9.... What else can I do?[/QUOTE]
Hoppes 9 is a solvent, not a lubricant or rust prevent-er. Light coat of remoil or almost any other gun oil will stop your gun from rusting. If you want to get gung-ho, buy some cheap synthetic motor oil and give it a real light coat with that. Most gun oils are just diluted motor oil in an aerosol anyways.
Storing your guns in a car or truck is dumb to begin with. Gun safe with some silica gel packs is the best environment.
I just use CLP on everything
[QUOTE=DPKiller;47845942]I store my mossberg model 870 super mag all camo in my truck
[/QUOTE]
This guy can't be real?
If he has a rusted shotgun, he deserves it for not following basic maintenance. Best case scenario, scrub it with a oiled Scotch-brite pad and repaint it. That's if this gun exists.
So after spending a few months building my own, I can safely say I've fallen in love with black powder firearms.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/L1Jsjn4.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/icLvlUK.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/Z6HHdfx.jpg[/t]
Walnut stock, stained with red oak 151 (2 coats), rubbed down with boiled linseed oil (3 coats), and sealed with a polyurethane semigloss (2 coats). 33.5" barrel (it originally came straight steel, no coating, went sort of non-traditional and had it cerakoted midnight blue to mimick bluing while giving it a hardier coating. That one was actually pretty fun, a local cerakote shop owner was so excited about my project that he gave me a $50 discount on the cerakote job and let me use his shop to build the rifle just so he could watch the progress)
Her name is Suzanna, after my mother who passed earlier this year.
Anyway, black powder is honestly so much fun to shoot. If any of y'all haven't tried it yet I'd definitely give it a go. Good quality traditional black powder guns can be less than $300 and the high end stuff doesn't go much past $800 unless you get into shotguns.
My next planned Black Powder purchases:
[t]http://muzzle-loaders.com/rifles/traditions/pennsylvania/images/main/traditions-pennsylvania-flintlock-rifle-R2090.jpg[/t]
[t]http://media.midwayusa.com/productimages/880x660/Primary/633/633440.jpg[/t]
Anyone else here dabble in black powder, either recreationally or for hunting/competition?
That's a beautiful rifle, and I'm sorry for your loss.
I looked at getting a black powder '51 Navy revolver but I think I'd just end up getting a cartridge cylinder for it anyway. I don't have the patience for black powder. RR_Raptor65 can tell you a lot more though.
I will tell you that I've heard all revolving rifles spit powder in your face like you wouldn't believe. I can't imagine a black powder one would be any better about it at all.
I used to do a shitload of metalwork & I like the dudes, I'm used to hot stuff flying into my face :v:
In all seriousness what do you mean by you don't have the patience for black powder? It's not as bad as people lead others to believe. In fact, I find it easier to clean black powder firearms than modern firearms. Sure, you have to do it after every time you use it but you just get a can of barrel blaster or a similar foaming cleaner, shoot the barrel full of it, let it sit for an hour, and flush it with hot soapy water and run patches thru it until dry. There's really not much to take apart, and shooting it is really fun. It's nice and methodical.
[QUOTE=PrusseLusken;47846174]use a preservative/storing gun oil.. hoppes no 9 is a fucking solvent[/QUOTE]
"Specifically compounded for protecting idle firearms. When applied to bore or exterior metal parts it displaces metal sweat from gun surfaces. Provides long term protection when cleaning is delayed. Also lubricates moving parts while protecting them from corrosion."
[QUOTE=Trunk Monkay;47846187]Hoppes 9 is a solvent, not a lubricant or rust prevent-er. Light coat of remoil or almost any other gun oil will stop your gun from rusting. If you want to get gung-ho, buy some cheap synthetic motor oil and give it a real light coat with that. Most gun oils are just diluted motor oil in an aerosol anyways.
Storing your guns in a car or truck is dumb to begin with. Gun safe with some silica gel packs is the best environment.[/QUOTE]
Will try Rem Oil, and some M-Pro 7 I have laying around.
And on topic of storing my gun were I wish to store my gun. If their was a way for a mobile gunsafe under my back seat, I would buy it. If I ever need it its there.
[QUOTE=Lone_Star94;47846258]This guy can't be real?
If he has a rusted shotgun, he deserves it for not following basic maintenance. Best case scenario, scrub it with a oiled Scotch-brite pad and repaint it. That's if this gun exists.[/QUOTE]
This guy cant be real?
If he is a fucking prick, he deserves to shoot him self with a glock trying to break it down.
And if someone ever says "Super Mag", hey. Maybe is talking about a Remington. No need to get arrogant about it. Maybe it has been raining in Texas for the last 3 months, it might be a little humid here you think?
And what the fuck about the scotch bright pad. That's just fucking stupid. The rust came off with me rubbing my finger GENTLY over it with rem oil. Also to tell someone to wipe it down with oil then paint it? Not even gonna use a oil remover first? Nah, I cant even begin what type of advice you have told people without telling them important steps.
[b]I would have thought I could just come in here ask a simple ass question and not think anything about it. Nope nuh uh. Cant do that.[/b]
What do you guys think of the Arisaka?
[t]http://puu.sh/i5vaz/219d4773ad.png[/t]
[t]http://puu.sh/i5vbQ/cb581dc214.png[/t]
[t]http://puu.sh/i5veb/16112f20fc.png[/t]
What year is it? Is the bore rusted/pitted? If not rusted too badly, find some ammo and see how it prints.
[QUOTE=Lone_Star94;47846967]What year is it? Is the bore rusted/pitted? If not rusted too badly, find some ammo and see how it prints.[/QUOTE]
wwii original, early Nagoya Arsenal Type 99, Chrysanthemum is sadly filed off. Few bit of rust on the trigger guard, bore is completely clean. It's been sitting in my Grandma's garage for ~25 years
[QUOTE=Crash155;47846984]wwii original, early Nagoya Arsenal Type 99, Chrysanthemum is sadly filed off. Few bit of rust on the trigger guard, bore is completely clean. It's been sitting in my Grandma's garage for ~25 years[/QUOTE]
Do all the serials match? that's always a bonus on determining whether it's shootable.
If you can find some ammo and see how well it shoots, you might have something. Otherwise, it's a good conversation piece. Have you try digging around a collectors forum or arisaka fan forum for more info?
[QUOTE=DPKiller;47846935]"Specifically compounded for protecting idle firearms. When applied to bore or exterior metal parts it displaces metal sweat from gun surfaces. Provides long term protection when cleaning is delayed. Also lubricates moving parts while protecting them from corrosion."
Will try Rem Oil, and some M-Pro 7 I have laying around.
And on topic of storing my gun were I wish to store my gun. If their was a way for a mobile gunsafe under my back seat, I would buy it. If I ever need it its there.
This guy cant be real?
If he is a fucking prick, he deserves to shoot him self with a glock trying to break it down.
And if someone ever says "Super Mag", hey. Maybe is talking about a Remington. No need to get arrogant about it. Maybe it has been raining in Texas for the last 3 months, it might be a little humid here you think?
And what the fuck about the scotch bright pad. That's just fucking stupid. The rust came off with me rubbing my finger GENTLY over it with rem oil. Also to tell someone to wipe it down with oil then paint it? Not even gonna use a oil remover first? Nah, I cant even begin what type of advice you have told people without telling them important steps.
[b]I would have thought I could just come in here ask a simple ass question and not think anything about it. Nope nuh uh. Cant do that.[/b][/QUOTE]
People in this thread need to chill the fuck out and have some respect for each other. The firearm hobby is becoming really unpleasant. If I had to deal with people acting in real life the way some of the people here act, it'd put me off shooting.
On the Arisaka: even if the bore was rusted, if the thing headspaces OK and doesn't have any cracks in the metal, I'd say brush the rust out and plink with it. It won't be accurate if the rifling is eaten up but half the fun is just the act of shooting and operating the gun. Rust is not a death sentence for a firearm, only its pricetag. I dunno how expensive 6.5 is. I have a sporter Enfield that I bought for $60. I'd do the same with it but .303 isn't really a plinking round anymore at nearly a dollar per shot.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;47846935]"Specifically compounded for protecting idle firearms. When applied to bore or exterior metal parts it displaces metal sweat from gun surfaces. Provides long term protection when cleaning is delayed. Also lubricates moving parts while protecting them from corrosion."[/QUOTE]
Obviously not the case since your gun was rusting. #9 is a solvent and nothing more. It's not the end all be all of gun cleaning, you [b]NEED[/b] to use it in conjunction with a lubricant, whether it be rem oil, hoppes lube, or some motor oil. If you use #9 alone, you're wasting your time.
It's true that people oversell Hoppes 9. It's for cleaning. I wouldn't leave it on a gun as a protective measure, though the company claims you can it obviously isn't working in your case. I personally use Breakfree CLP and it works for everything, though it's strangely hard to find here where gun stores only sell Hoppes and Remoil.
But to go rabid on him and tell him he deserved the rust and should go curl up and die or whatever is just stupid. Cool it.
Also consider that carpeted vehicle floors, foam in seats, etc. trap moisture and amplify humidity inside a vehicle, especially when it gets hot after raining. I wouldn't keep a firearm in my vehicle for that alone, no matter how well protected it is.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;47846935]
Will try Rem Oil, and some M-Pro 7 I have laying around.
And on topic of storing my gun were I wish to store my gun. If their was a way for a mobile gunsafe under my back seat, I would buy it. If I ever need it its there.
[/QUOTE]
You're better off storing it in your closet or under your bed. Storing it in your truck for the long term is just asking for disaster, furthermore if your truck gets broken into that shotgun is the first thing thats gonna go, or if you get in an accident and it gets bent in half.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;47846935]
[b]I would have thought I could just come in here ask a simple ass question and not think anything about it. Nope nuh uh. Cant do that.[/b][/QUOTE]
You went into a thread dedicated to guns? what did you expect?
[QUOTE=DPKiller;47846935]
[b]I would have thought I could just come in here ask a simple ass question and not think anything about it. Nope nuh uh. Cant do that.[/b][/QUOTE]
Dood, it would be like if you went into the car thread and said "I emptied my oil 90,000 miles ago and haven't added any since. My engine has been acting up and I can't figure out why, can anyone tell me how to fix it?" Of course we're gonna call you an idiot.
[QUOTE=Grenadiac;47847067]It's true that people oversell Hoppes 9. It's for cleaning. I wouldn't leave it on a gun as a protective measure, though the company claims you can it obviously isn't working in your case. I personally use Breakfree CLP and it works for everything, though it's strangely hard to find here where gun stores only sell Hoppes and Remoil.
But to go rabid on him and tell him he deserved the rust and should go curl up and die or whatever is just stupid. Cool it.
Also consider that carpeted vehicle floors, foam in seats, etc. trap moisture and amplify humidity inside a vehicle, especially when it gets hot after raining. I wouldn't keep a firearm in my vehicle for that alone, no matter how well protected it is.[/QUOTE]
Break free really is my favorite. Easy to use and gets the job done. Also it has a really low freezing point, which is handy in my neck of the woods.
And yes, everyone needs to chill. Hoppes doesn't honestly market their stuff, so getting annoyed with him for believing a product should do what it says it does, seems silly.
The only way I understood what I was doing with Hoppe's was because I bought the entire cleaning kit, which came with No. 9 and lubricant. Their descriptions are very vague.
Well, it's that time of the month again where I decided to go blow my load with about $60 worth of ammo at the range. And I do have to say, as much as I now love my .30-06, I absolutely hate the scope on it. I can never get the same cheekweld on the gun since the sight's eye relief almost constantly seems to change drastically. But, I am also feeling much more comfortable with my P229, which is a good thing.
[QUOTE=zach1193;47847003]Do all the serials match? that's always a bonus on determining whether it's shootable.[/QUOTE]
yes they do
Heh, I use general purpose lubricant found at my local hardware store.
froglube for the summertime ranges and storage, especially when running corrosive or cheap ammo
i received a yugo mauser a few months ago, and it was doused in cosmoline
cosmoline, tovarish
shit even my plum furniture was doused in cosmoline when i took it off my ak
i dont even know if plastic rusts, do russians cosmoline everything??
Faster to just dunk the whole gun than to piece it out.
[QUOTE=download;47848007]Heh, I use general purpose lubricant found at my local hardware store.[/QUOTE]
I use straight up 10w-30 motor oil for lubricating my guns.
I'm just waiting for one of you guys to say you use some sort of sex lube. Something tells me there's someone twisted enough out there with extra to do so.
[QUOTE=Trunk Monkay;47848867]I use straight up 10w-30 motor oil for lubricating my guns.[/QUOTE]
Amen for simplicity.
The previous owner of my Gew. 88 smothered the outside of the barrel and inside of the sleeve with that red axel grease. Smells funny, but not even a bit of pitting on the important bits.
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