I have no idea what mine recommends I just inflate it until it looks right
[img]http://i.imgur.com/OrKHEaJ.png[/img]
Now to decide if I want to reinforce the cage to the subframe or not....
[QUOTE=butre;51558063]I have no idea what mine recommends I just inflate it until it looks right[/QUOTE]
I had to do the chalk test on mine because on running 32's and had no idea what pressure to run with such a soft sidewall.
My brakes are no longer fucky. After sticking my car in the garage to let it warm up over night the calipers don't stick.
Huh.
[QUOTE=DuCT;51558557]My brakes are no longer fucky. After sticking my car in the garage to let it warm up over night the calipers don't stick.
Huh.[/QUOTE]
You got moisture in your "gliders".
Did you clean them for rust & grime and then re-lubricated them last time you changed pads?
Inspect.
Relube calipers with atf and drain your brake fluid might have moisture in it.
[editline]20th December 2016[/editline]
ATF because winter. Caliper grease for summer. Seems logical in my mind.
I'm getting about 25mpg in my Neon when it should be somewhere upwards of 30 or more. I'm driving like a grandma. 60mph in 5th. 95% highway.
Would this be a suspect of grabbing brakes? When I back up and turn slightly while doing so my brakes in the back squeak (at least one of them does.) I'm only letting the clutch out, not touching the pedal.
[QUOTE=Lerlth;51558991]I'm getting about 25mpg in my Neon when it should be somewhere upwards of 30 or more. I'm driving like a grandma. 60mph in 5th. 95% highway.
Would this be a suspect of grabbing brakes? When I back up and turn slightly while doing so my brakes in the back squeak (at least one of them does.) I'm only letting the clutch out, not touching the pedal.[/QUOTE]
Lift car up like your the hulk and see if the skinny thing spins freely compairer to the others or somthing idk.
Blame the weather.
[editline]21st December 2016[/editline]
Also cars run rich as fuck when it's cold outside and they are cold.
Like. Rich as fuck.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;51555638]Alrighty, I'll throw a update out there since "nobody but clutch works on their vehicles regularly" :v:
Cut off the sway bar mount and spring pocket from the axle to clean it up
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/LICH/2742F79D-00B9-4CBE-A260-33B6CEA5B2DD_zpss2ccoiiv.jpg[/thumb]
Designed a replacement bracket for the sway bar mount
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/LICH/DDCBBA69-B739-4102-BBA9-7AEDC6BF3F61_zpsimiutafw.jpg[/thumb]
Lopped off the old control arm mounts and cut off the cab mount for control arm clearance (its being flipped and rewelded)
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/LICH/CDB569F0-15B5-40EB-B4B7-37E7D602A839_zpsw68f2tqo.jpg[/thumb]
The stock control arm mount was looking scabby and it was designed to angle the control arms inwards (I still could have used it, it just wouldn't be the best option), so to rectify this with correct geometry I designed a replacement control arm bracket.
With help from Jimbo
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/LICH/563E591C-8310-4D62-A3A9-338A04ED4160_zpspwcfczm0.jpg[/thumb]
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/LICH/F579A230-59B6-492E-B655-563E52A75EEE_zpsqyfoyfde.jpg[/thumb]
Here is an alternative design that has a little more character, what do you guys think? I think to somewhat match the sway bar mount I may ditch the holes in the middle
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/LICH/8367AA54-F8BF-4060-ACAC-E12BA3C79D2D_zpscb8ow1hg.jpg[/thumb]
Should be cutting it all out tomorrow, as well as finishing sand blasting the axle. I still have to design the frame->control arm mounting bracket but I think it should be relatively simple.[/QUOTE]
Eyyy, my bro
[t]https://puu.sh/sW9lp/c928348f0e.png[/t]
Still puzzling through the piston rings, cylinder seals before i can really cut into the cylinder block and finish the piston itself. probably going to be nothing left of it by the time i'm done
The math for the shear and yield streingth of the actual piston doesn't seem to check out. It's (Max PSI * Surface area of piston) / (Material Yield / surface area of a cross section of the piston) against your FOS, but that gave me a thickness that seems way far excessive even for 750+ PSI.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;51559472]Lift car up like your the hulk and see if the skinny thing spins freely compairer to the others or somthing idk.
Blame the weather.
[editline]21st December 2016[/editline]
Also cars run rich as fuck when it's cold outside and they are cold.
Like. Rich as fuck.[/QUOTE]
My AFR stays between 14.7-15.6 usually.
Yea dude, in the summer my Corolla gets 35 mpg or so, and in the winter I get about 28 give or take. Almost all highway driving. The winter is rough, and you're feeding fuel to a forced induction engine. Being around doesn't even surprise me.
I was doing some runnin around n shit. Headed home and was just passing a gas station when I ran over something in the road and herd it bouce back up and hit the underside of the car. Weird. Then I noticed the car ~300ft infront of me in the left lane go dark and turn on his hazards and got on the sholder. weeeeeeeeeeeird.
I slowed down and was curious when I passed him SMOKE SHOW BBY SMOKE SMOKE SHOW, turned around to were I ran over what ever the fuck it was never saw it and then pulled up behind the little car that broke down. He said "I dunno it just shut down on me, I just did a oil change and it would't let me crank it back up earlier had to wait for it to cool down."
*looks under car*
[t]http://i.imgur.com/4CtnEFZ.png[/t]
HELLLOOOOOOOOOOOO ITS MEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
I told the poor kid (probely 17 hispanic but very profesional) "Dude its fucked. Your conrod just blew a hole threw your block. Your engine is dead. You need a tow truck."
I gave him a lift home.
Not everyday do you see a toyota carola eject a conrod.
So I finally got something American!
[img]http://i.imgur.com/wKCnKFP.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/clwgz2P.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/NtdIdFx.jpg?1[/img]
tell me that's not the 4 banger
Oh it's the Tractor motor alright, 2.3 all the way.
BUT DON'T BE UPSET as I do have a 351 Cleveland for it when spring comes around!
[QUOTE=Trilby Harlow;51559863]Eyyy, my bro
[t]https://puu.sh/sW9lp/c928348f0e.png[/t]
Still puzzling through the piston rings, cylinder seals before i can really cut into the cylinder block and finish the piston itself. probably going to be nothing left of it by the time i'm done
The math for the shear and yield streingth of the actual piston doesn't seem to check out. It's (Max PSI * Surface area of piston) / (Material Yield / surface area of a cross section of the piston) against your FOS, but that gave me a thickness that seems way far excessive for 750 PSI.[/QUOTE]
Woah 'ombre, you're speakin' lingo I'm not all too familiar with! Do you work with CNC?
I dont do as much as far as technical stuff goes, I just make stuff that looks cool haha!
What are you making exactly?
[editline]21st December 2016[/editline]
[QUOTE=crazycory65;51560779]Oh it's the Tractor motor alright, 2.3 all the way.
BUT DON'T BE UPSET as I do have a 351 Cleveland for it when spring comes around![/QUOTE]
460 swap! I did it in my 1989 fox, I can tell you all the specs on doing it but it was incredibly simple and cheap, worked really well too. Fit in there so well it looked factory
460 huh? Well, I think the 351 Cleveland would be great, the only problem is seeing if my dad will actually part ways with it. Honestly he should as It's been sitting for fucking years out of his old mustang. Plus, it's an expensive ass motor and makes great power already.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;51560877]Woah 'ombre, you're speakin' lingo I'm not all too familiar with! Do you work with CNC?
I dont do as much as far as technical stuff goes, I just make stuff that looks cool haha!
What are you making exactly?[/QUOTE]
My hobby for the next long while is to build a steam car to succeed the Doble
[video=youtube;rUg_ukBwsyo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUg_ukBwsyo[/video]
that stuff was just the equasion to find the safe yield strength of a rod. So the power of a pressurized gas is PSI * the surface area of the piston head, then the rest is finding the safe material proportions to meet that stress, with a factor of safety to make sure it doesn't fail when aging and to account for manufacturing defects or any light damage, that sort of thing. But it was spitting out a diameter that seems way overbuilt to me with the material specs i'm using. Proportionally speaking for the power it makes, it's like five times thicker than a comparable and hollow rod you'd find on a PRR T1, which has a 5" thick piston rod at 6,500 horsepower. So something's going wrong there
Anyway, i don't have much time to dump into it and i have a lot of reading to do whenever i do anything, so I've really only got the piston assembly (which i'm redoing) and valve assembly, which i think is finished until i have an engine block to add the spring and head on to, as well as a shitload of drawings and basic math on paper
[t]https://puu.sh/sWnLd/ced235d072.png[/t] [t]https://puu.sh/sWnKW/34ef5f1344.pngt[/t] [t]https://puu.sh/swCaV/68d58673a8.png[/t]
My current math says i can match the 30%ish thermal efficiency of street cars at the wheels, while being able to use carbon neutral fuels and producing no harmful emissions beyond any non combustable contaminants in the fuel itself due to the 100% combustion rate of an external combustion chamber. A steam engine with a large expansion ratio and compounding can get around 18% thermal efficiency at 300 PSI with 14PSI back pressure due to piston valves. I'm using double compounding, 800PSI superheated steam and continous contour variable cam driven poppet valves with seperate exhaust and admission events which should give me a mean backpressure of <1 PSI, which should raise the efficiency substantially. PRR found the poppets gave a 20% increase in efficiency across the board when they fitted a similar gear to a K4. Then add on effective feedwater heaters to retrap heat in the exhaust steam, another feedwater heater to retrap exhaust heat from the burner and a condensor to recapture another chunk of energy from the steam, and with rough proportional areas for each i come out at about 28-29% at the wheels with a big overkill of 10% frictional losses. I think i'll be closer to 3-5% frictional losses because i'm cutting out the transmission, clutch and plain bearing crankshaft bathed in oft contaminated oil. Gonna be using inclined split roller bearings from timken for the rod bearings because of the crazy torque and the fact that the crank oil will never encounter any fouling which eliminates the trouble they'd have in a car engine.
Current math says with 2 3.875" HP pistons and a 7 inch stroke at 600 mean effective pressure during the HP stroke, i should get about 350 horsepower and 2000+ foot pounds at the crank, and geared down 1-3, directly driving the ring gear, it should have a high top speed around 130-150MPH. And currently as designed, it'll have perfect engine balance because the torque is balanced on all strokes, forward and back. Don't have to deal with any of that eccentric weight rod bullshit like the tarus engines have.
I got fucking leagues to go obviously, so it'll be 20 years before i can go hoon it, but hey it's a hobby
[QUOTE=Trilby Harlow;51561060]My hobby for the next long while is to build a steam car to succeed the Doble
[video=youtube;rUg_ukBwsyo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUg_ukBwsyo[/video]
that stuff was just the equasion to find the safe yield strength of a rod. So the power of a pressurized gas is PSI * the surface area of the piston head, then the rest is finding the safe material proportions to meet that stress, with a factor of safety to make sure it doesn't fail when aging and to account for manufacturing defects or any light damage, that sort of thing. But it was spitting out a diameter that seems way overbuilt to me with the material specs i'm using. Proportionally speaking for the power it makes, it's like five times thicker than a comparable and hollow rod you'd find on a PRR T1, which has a 5" thick piston rod at 6,500 horsepower. So something's going wrong there
Anyway, i don't have much time to dump into it and i have a lot of reading to do whenever i do anything, so I've really only got the piston assembly (which i'm redoing) and valve assembly, which i think is finished until i have an engine block to add the spring and head on to, as well as a shitload of drawings and basic math on paper
[t]https://puu.sh/sWnLd/ced235d072.png[/t] [t]https://puu.sh/sWnKW/34ef5f1344.pngt[/t] [t]https://puu.sh/swCaV/68d58673a8.png[/t]
My current math says i can match the 30%ish thermal efficiency of street cars at the wheels, while being able to use carbon neutral fuels and producing no harmful emissions beyond any non combustable contaminants in the fuel itself due to the 100% combustion rate of an external combustion chamber. A steam engine with a large expansion ratio and compounding can get around 18% thermal efficiency at 300 PSI with 14PSI back pressure due to piston valves. I'm using double compounding, 800PSI superheated steam and continous contour variable cam driven poppet valves with seperate exhaust and admission events which should give me a mean backpressure of <1 PSI, which should raise the efficiency substantially. PRR found the poppets gave a 20% increase in efficiency across the board when they fitted a similar gear to a K4. Then add on effective feedwater heaters to retrap heat in the exhaust steam, another feedwater heater to retrap exhaust heat from the burner and a condensor to recapture another chunk of energy from the steam, and with rough proportional areas for each i come out at about 28-29% at the wheels with a big overkill of 10% frictional losses. I think i'll be closer to 3-5% frictional losses because i'm cutting out the transmission, clutch and plain bearing crankshaft bathed in oft contaminated oil. Gonna be using inclined split roller bearings from timken for the rod bearings because of the crazy torque and the fact that the crank oil will never encounter any fouling which eliminates the trouble they'd have in a car engine.
Current math says with 2 3.875" HP pistons and a 7 inch stroke at 600 mean effective pressure during the HP stroke, i should get about 350 horsepower and 2000+ foot pounds at the crank, and geared down 1-3, directly driving the ring gear, it should have a high top speed around 130-150MPH. And currently as designed, it'll have perfect engine balance because the torque is balanced on all strokes, forward and back. Don't have to deal with any of that eccentric weight rod bullshit like the tarus engines have.
I got fucking leagues to go obviously, so it'll be 20 years before i can go hoon it, but hey it's a hobby[/QUOTE]
you're insane.
I love it
If I don't see a car running this theorized steam engine in 20 years I'll hunt you down and beat you.
That is way to damn cool and in-depth to just be a hobby.
I think it might be a decent idea to try and prototype a single cylinder version of your idea to kinda proof of concept it, and to see what it can relatively handle before boom or some other kinda failure.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;51561201]If I don't see a car running this theorized steam engine in 20 years I'll hunt you down and beat you.
That is way to damn cool and in-depth to just be a hobby.
I think it might be a decent idea to try and prototype a single cylinder version of your idea to kinda proof of concept it, and to see what it can relatively handle before boom or some other kinda failure.[/QUOTE]
Eh the math is extremely well established when it comes to steam. Unlike ICE's you're dealing with extremely consistant forces. And cylinders are extremely strong, so the wall thickness can be relitively thin because you're dealing with constant and evenly distributed stresses as opposed to an ICE engine which is constant explosions which have potential for knock and consistently randomized stresses for a number of reasons. Highly localized heating and cooling, that lot.
Comparitively, steam engines are extremely simple to figure out. Probably the most complicated math i have to do is figuring out the thermal expansion between the steel cylinder sleeve and the aluminum block at superheated steam temperature, everything else is very well established. Plus you couldn't counterbalance a single cylinder steam engine at high RPM because of the large recprocating mass of the piston and rod at a large moment of inertia. You'd have to balance that against an opposite stroked assembly of equal mass at which point at which point there's no reason not to just build the fucking thing
[t]https://puu.sh/sWqQO/e5bda6db85.JPG[/t]
I have a bunch of old engineering bibles and what not that cover most of the territory, like ralph johnson's opus here. Plus the more advanced theoretical stuff proposed by Porta and Chapleon covers most of the ground i'm covering already. There's no real need to POC any of that stuff when it's been so well traversed, and i can test my designs in solidwork's sims for the idiot check anyway. The hardest part will probably be getting optimal steam flow from the boiler to the steam chest and sourcing parts i couldn't make myself. SKF makes some lubricators which serve my needs, but i'd have to request a mechanically driven one i can bolt to the engine, and not an electronically controlled unit, for example. I know for sure the condensor and fan turbine will be a [I]bitch[/I] to produce or source though. I'll probably just cheat and electrify the fan but that doesn't solve the condenser problem.
[video=youtube;pIK5mnd_h_U]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIK5mnd_h_U[/video]
This is roughly how the valve gear i have in mind works, though instead of stepped cams you click through like a gearbox, it'll be a continuous contour cam with infinite variation to make it easier to tune, far simpler to manufacture, friendlier to being in poor repair and i suspect more reliable all around.
But the best part?
I looked through all the legislation governing steam cars and shit in canada and the US, and even phoned up ICBC, and there is literally [I]zero[/I] regulation for steam cars barring your standard pressure vessel regulations, which are no real trouble to meet. Don't even need a show boiler liscence like you'd need on a traction engine. And Leno's car up there, despite being built in 1923, still meets modern emission regulations because of the combustion efficiency, and i have a design in mind that'd be even more efficient and effectively double the combustion chamber size in roughly the same volume.
Have to admit, i've been daydreaming about starting a low production car company once i have a final product to attract investors with. Aim for the rolls ghost market and give every individual car a sense of individuality. Cast each one an individual nameplate and associated name that customers can pick from a list or suggest their own. Tundra Brave, East Wind, Thunderhead, Secretariat, Golden Zephyr, Little Wyvern, Black Drake, Pegasus, Clan Gunn, Silver Claw, have that sort of majestic or mythical theme. Then the customer can make specific requests for the car for paint designs or interior trim or whatever. I figure giving the individual cars an identity makes it easier to personify and project a soul onto them and make them more endearing and make the brand loyalty stronger as they form a bond with the car. All sorts of little ideas like that.
I'm absolutely reserving Little Wyvern as this car's name though, i just love it.
2000+ torque at crank
Ive got wood
Is there a torque curve graph of a steam engine like that?
She lives! After something like 9 years stopped, being left out in the rain for 2 or 3, having the engine cleaned out so it'd run 2 times, it's now properly running for the 2nd time. Now to actually get it insured and checked.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/3QM6bPI.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/w7DZU5r.jpg[/IMG]
What'd you guys reccomend doing for your first car and an old less techy one? I was thinking of getting little things like a bluetooth cassette adaptor, though with how loud it is when driving I probably wont be able to hear the music anyway. The electric windows are a huge plus though. I've already got a phone mount and little usb charger
1984 Toyota 4runner SR5
Really sweet car dude. Digging the paintjob. Give it a good cleaning and remove the shitty stickers :v:
That camper shell is groovy as hell, too. I love it.
[QUOTE=Trilby Harlow;51561282]~ton of awesome steam related stuff~[/QUOTE]
Well it sure sounds like you have the math and method down, so good luck in everything.
Think maybe at some point you got post a video of the simulator showing some stuff? Unless you wanna keep some putz from trying to steal ideas, cuz that'd suck.
Yeah, I'm interested in it too. Alternate ways to power cars is always cool.
I forgot about how much torque steam engines produce with their massive stroker motors.
[video=youtube;FLQhvruimfs]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLQhvruimfs[/video]
[QUOTE=Strontboer;51562627]Really sweet car dude. Digging the paintjob. Give it a good cleaning and remove the shitty stickers :v:[/QUOTE]
Better leave that never say die sticker on. It's applicable.
[QUOTE=Lerlth;51563448]Yeah, I'm interested in it too. Alternate ways to power cars is always cool.
I forgot about how much torque steam engines produce with their massive stroker motors.
[video=youtube;FLQhvruimfs]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLQhvruimfs[/video][/QUOTE]
That isn't exactly a fair fight considering the traction engine must weigh several times as much as the tractor. Also consider how much of the tractor is engine vs how much of the traction engine is engine. The tractor never even got traction once in the dirt because the steamer was so heavy.
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