[QUOTE=deathmog;51598170]Hey guys, looking to buy a welder under $600 that I can learn on and eventually (after practicing a lot) fix rust and stuff on the MR2.
I think I want a MIG welder, but I'm not sure which brand and model to get. Thoughts?[/QUOTE]
don't learn on mig. mig is so easy that you'll never learn things like arc distance or angle and that'll make bad habits. go old school for learning, a dc stick machine is the way to go. I have no trouble welding thin material with a stick welder, but I prefer going for oxy fuel.
[QUOTE=clutch2;51596391]No kidding? Very interesting. I suppose it's worth a shotski and I can always redesign it a fully sealed setup causes pressure (I forsee expansion pressure shoving fuel up the line and flooding the carb on a hot day or something when it's sitting??)[/QUOTE]
As long as the cap has a pressure vent (like rad caps have) you shouldnt have to worry. Just try to set the filler to a stockish fashion and you won't have to worry about fume build up.
The only cars you really see set up with tank you fill in the car are rat rods and other race type cars with no or few windows. Even then gas has a max pressue it can expand to, which im quite sure of the number.
Ive seen blitz gas cans sitting in straight sunlight un vented handle the heat from a summer day, but I do t condone that for many reasons. A metal fuel cell can likely handle the pressure. It also shouldnt really flood the carb, not unless the pressure in the tank exceeds the carbs needle valves ability to stop fuel flow.
[QUOTE=Stiveno;51594276]first time posting in a while haven't been doing car stuff because its cold. Washed the bimmer and got around to installing the front lip today. painted it and did the prep work yesterday.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/zgatbAC.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/uBXbreZ.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
Loving the us style headlights
Those Eonon head units look great! My brother wanted to upgrade the stereo in his 2013 Jetta to something with a touchscreen, though from the quick research I did, the harness + dash kit + stereo combo was getting a bit pricy. Everything looks to be plug and play with those Eonon head units!
[QUOTE=Ldesu;51598561]I have a feeling the way I do it is easier :v:[/QUOTE]
I have a feeling the way Stron does it is more therapeutic.
This is what madness looks like
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/D01D6C82-291F-4279-897B-73BB0BFB8A8B_zpsjgh85o2t.jpg[/thumb]
literally spent the last 3 days doing nothing but researching every damn thing I can about front axle.
My best option is the 78-79 ford axle except thats also everyone elses best option haha! They're expensive and really hard to find.
The 86-91 ford axle is looking like a good option right now, but I'm worried about the offset diff because its shorter on the passenger side 3.5 inches more than my dodge one
Well, the Fury's valve cover gaskets couldn't wait any longer to be done, so I dropped her off and picked up the MR2 now that the fuel pump and headlight switch are in. Man, it's so fucking [i]fun[/i] in the snow, and the 4AGE loves the cold. Surprisingly grippy too, then again it is a flipped FWD pretty much. Although I already got it stuck in my yard with only 3 inches of snow :v
[QUOTE=mastoner20;51599235]I have a feeling the way Stron does it is more therapeutic.[/QUOTE]
Until he has to clean up the mess and remove the bits still stuck to the windshield frame.
[url=http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Best-Geo-Tracker-Suzuki-Sidekick-soft-top-clips-LIFETIME-WARRANTY-SET-OF-5-/171208186505?hash=item27dccd9a89:g:1lwAAOSwuTxWCFm~&vxp=mtr]When you are enough of a cunt that you design and 3D print parts for your car but three and a half years later you STILL have not released the model like you promised and want $80CDN for sets.[/url]
That's the kind of shit I expect from Corvette owners.
[QUOTE=butre;51598564]don't learn on mig. mig is so easy that you'll never learn things like arc distance or angle and that'll make bad habits. go old school for learning, a dc stick machine is the way to go. I have no trouble welding thin material with a stick welder, but I prefer going for oxy fuel.[/QUOTE]
Okay, stick seems to be cheaper too.
I figured the mig originally because everybody says it apparently has cleaner welds, but I definitely want to learn the right way and not do a shit job in the end.
Where should I start?
[QUOTE=pentium;51599407][url=http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Best-Geo-Tracker-Suzuki-Sidekick-soft-top-clips-LIFETIME-WARRANTY-SET-OF-5-/171208186505?hash=item27dccd9a89:g:1lwAAOSwuTxWCFm~&vxp=mtr]When you are enough of a cunt that you design and 3D print parts for your car but three and a half years later you STILL have not released the model like you promised and want $80CDN for sets.[/url]
That's the kind of shit I expect from Corvette owners.[/QUOTE]
that profit margin tho
time to fire up tinkercad, switch to a 0.8mm nozzle and start selling 3d printed reproductions of obscrure plastic parts for 20 year old cars because thats apparently where the $$$ is at
[QUOTE=fishyfish777;51599682]that profit margin tho
time to fire up tinkercad, switch to a 0.8mm nozzle and start selling 3d printed reproductions of obscrure plastic parts for 20 year old cars because thats apparently where the $$$ is at[/QUOTE]
IF he doesn't respond to my post on SuzukiForums or he says no I'll have no choice but to reverse engineer his design, get it to Thingiverse, then tell his margins to go fuck themselves. :ok:
Those clips break if you breathe on them wrong. How in the three years since he first started selling them nobody has done this already I'm amazed. I got at least three on my car that are fucked.
And they say capitalism doesn't breed healthy competition anymore.
[QUOTE=deathmog;51599564]Okay, stick seems to be cheaper too.
I figured the mig originally because everybody says it apparently has cleaner welds, but I definitely want to learn the right way and not do a shit job in the end.
Where should I start?[/QUOTE]
get a good rig and good rods. doesn't have to be a top of the line miller, but an everlast will do the trick. the everlast powerarc 140 is a killer beginner's unit for about $250, and you can get a tig torch and some bottles later on if you want to do so
[QUOTE=Sonador;51599800]And they say capitalism doesn't breed healthy competition anymore.[/QUOTE]
To be honest I didn't hope to stoop this low. If I end up having to do it I'll feel a little bad for it but if I'm gonna do it fuck money, make it free.
Bought my ticket for MRLS tonight. I'm pumped!!!
Found a SC400 that had it's ass chopped off.
[url]http://downtownmotorcarsales.com/lexus/234639-modified-1992-lexus-sc400-with-70000-original-miles-no-reserve.html[/url]
[t]http://downtownmotorcarsales.com/pics/modified-1992-lexus-sc400-with-70000-original-miles-no-reserve-1.jpg[/t][t]http://downtownmotorcarsales.com/pics/modified-1992-lexus-sc400-with-70000-original-miles-no-reserve-3.jpg[/t]
[quote]While a fan of the SC400 (I have another one with 28,000 original miles) [b]I also wanted a look of a Corvette so I had the rear end of the car (there was no accident damage to the car) cut off and replaced with 14 ga steel to give a different look.[/b] I don’t know if I like it or not but it certainly attracts attention.[/quote]
Well he's got ambition, gotta give him that.
But why
Because hindsight is...
...eh. I got nothing. :v:
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;51599272]This is what madness looks like
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/D01D6C82-291F-4279-897B-73BB0BFB8A8B_zpsjgh85o2t.jpg[/thumb]
literally spent the last 3 days doing nothing but researching every damn thing I can about front axle.
My best option is the 78-79 ford axle except thats also everyone elses best option haha! They're expensive and really hard to find.
The 86-91 ford axle is looking like a good option right now, but I'm worried about the offset diff because its shorter on the passenger side 3.5 inches more than my dodge one[/QUOTE]
Sally. I need your help. I need a dodge 9 tooth starter from the great white north. They were on 1966 and older dodges, and some police cars and taxis later. It was under the brand "prestolite" but im sure theres others. Its a direct drive one. It has 9 gear teeth and is 27mm as opposed to the common gear reduction 33mm that everyone typically has. I just so happen to have a canadian ring gear and tq and need this very specific starter. Do you have one in your aircraft hanger? This is why my current starter no workie. Its too big on each side by 1/8" and just crashes into the ring gear and spins instead of engaging it.
[QUOTE=fishyfish777;51599682]that profit margin tho
time to fire up tinkercad, switch to a 0.8mm nozzle and start selling 3d printed reproductions of obscrure plastic parts for 20 year old cars because thats apparently where the $$$ is at[/QUOTE]
Hey i'll chip in with the technical drawings. Undercut him by 20 dollars and you're still raking it in.
I'll do a better bloody job too i can tell you that
[QUOTE=Serj22;51600783]Sally. I need your help. I need a dodge 9 tooth starter from the great white north. They were on 1966 and older dodges, and some police cars and taxis later. It was under the brand "prestolite" but im sure theres others. Its a direct drive one. It has 9 gear teeth and is 27mm as opposed to the common gear reduction 33mm that everyone typically has. I just so happen to have a canadian ring gear and tq and need this very specific starter. Do you have one in your aircraft hanger? This is why my current starter no workie. Its too big on each side by 1/8" and just crashes into the ring gear and spins instead of engaging it.[/QUOTE]
Oh man, what a predicament you've gotten yourself into! I wont have anything like that kickin around, but I will check the junkyard (they have some old mopars) tomorrow for you since I have to go there anyways.
I cant exactly think of a guy to go to who would have that, there was the guy I bought my '70 duster off but he had to crush all his cars because of stupid zoning laws. I'll phone a local napa on the EXTREME off chance that they would carry it.
I'd maybe try this guy out too?
[url]http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30621[/url]
For what its worth, is it a major fuck around to go back to your old set up? I'd be concerned about reliablity issues and parts availability running a 40+ year old starter, as well as it being a direct drive unit so its not even the greatest.
I googled a few articles and its looking to be only on 62-66 valiants with slant 6's made in Canada, or similar modeled cars, if you could find out anything else that may have had it, or a interchangable starter, I can look for that as well.
[QUOTE=Van-man;51599370]Until he has to clean up the mess and remove the bits still stuck to the windshield frame.[/QUOTE]
That was suprisingly easy, with a knife you just cut away the glue. Took me about 5 minutes to get the frame 100% clean.
And for the mess, well I so happen to work in a glass shop :v:
Central relay died so my turn signals do not blink, okay.
Drove to the damn service, charged me for "DIAGNOSTICS" fucking over 15 euros and told me they'll order the part that's like 40-60 euros >.>.
Gee thanks for checking that out.
[QUOTE=GhillieBacca;51600333][QUOTE](there was no accident damage to the car)[/QUOTE][/QUOTE]
Either liar or pants-on-head retarded.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;51600821]Oh man, what a predicament you've gotten yourself into! I wont have anything like that kickin around, but I will check the junkyard (they have some old mopars) tomorrow for you since I have to go there anyways.
I cant exactly think of a guy to go to who would have that, there was the guy I bought my '70 duster off but he had to crush all his cars because of stupid zoning laws. I'll phone a local napa on the EXTREME off chance that they would carry it.
I'd maybe try this guy out too?
[url]http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30621[/url]
For what its worth, is it a major fuck around to go back to your old set up? I'd be concerned about reliablity issues and parts availability running a 40+ year old starter, as well as it being a direct drive unit so its not even the greatest.
I googled a few articles and its looking to be only on 62-66 valiants with slant 6's made in Canada, or similar modeled cars, if you could find out anything else that may have had it, or a interchangable starter, I can look for that as well.[/QUOTE]
They used it because it was cheaper than seitching over to a slightly different tq and the reduction starter. Ive contacted Dan on slantsix.org because he was making a pinion and gear that you just pulled the other bendix pinion out of the mini starter and dropped that in. He hasnt responded yet. They continued keeping them on taxi vehicles and police cars equipped with slant sixes and even then it was an offshoot if they had them. I think this is more a case of someone assembled and engine and bought a tq and it wound up being this canadian unit. The trouble to swap ot for the american tq i have would outweigh the cost of just buying this weird starter. Ill still have a mini starter if the tq ever funks out and i need to switch it. Visually it looks like the stock mopar reduction starter except it appears to be all black, and longer. If you dont see one, autozone will order one to the tune of $200.
Basically everything had them to my knowledge, but more likely to be on a slant six or 318. Your just basically looking for a weird looking starter. This is the normal one anyones used to:
[url]https://www.google.com/search?q=prestolite+slant+six+starter&client=ms-android-hms-tmobile-us&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjQs6SLopzRAhVDzFQKHebPA38Q_AUICCgC&biw=412&bih=679#imgrc=jtc3rJOyjpalXM%3A[/url]
And this is the one im hunting:
[url]https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/83/Automobile_starter.JPG/300px-Automobile_starter.JPG[/url]
Theyre different colors. Verification its correct is the starter gear will only have 9 teeth instead of 10 and only be 1" instead of an 1 1/4". Or 27mm instead of 33mm.
[QUOTE=Serj22;51601540]They used it because it was cheaper than seitching over to a slightly different tq and the reduction starter. Ive contacted Dan on slantsix.org because he was making a pinion and gear that you just pulled the other bendix pinion out of the mini starter and dropped that in. He hasnt responded yet. They continued keeping them on taxi vehicles and police cars equipped with slant sixes and even then it was an offshoot if they had them. I think this is more a case of someone assembled and engine and bought a tq and it wound up being this canadian unit. The trouble to swap ot for the american tq i have would outweigh the cost of just buying this weird starter. Ill still have a mini starter if the tq ever funks out and i need to switch it. Visually it looks like the stock mopar reduction starter except it appears to be all black, and longer. If you dont see one, autozone will order one to the tune of $200.
Basically everything had them to my knowledge, but more likely to be on a slant six or 318. Your just basically looking for a weird looking starter. This is the normal one anyones used to:
[url]https://www.google.com/search?q=prestolite+slant+six+starter&client=ms-android-hms-tmobile-us&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjQs6SLopzRAhVDzFQKHebPA38Q_AUICCgC&biw=412&bih=679#imgrc=jtc3rJOyjpalXM%3A[/url]
And this is the one im hunting:
[url]https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/83/Automobile_starter.JPG/300px-Automobile_starter.JPG[/url]
Theyre different colors. Verification its correct is the starter gear will only have 9 teeth instead of 10 and only be 1" instead of an 1 1/4". Or 27mm instead of 33mm.[/QUOTE]
I found a direct drive starter for a 225 Fury and I'm finding the rebuild parts for "canada emissions" starters too but that's probably not as useful.
[url]http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/plymouth,1960,fury,3.7l+225cid+l6,1348613,electrical,starter+motor,4152[/url]
I'm looking into converting my snowblower into remote control and need to design a running gear that can grip, steer and propel a 50-60 pound object at low speed
Are rubber (studded) tracks, metal tracks or just plain ol' big wheels with studded tires better for worst-case ice traction?
I'm afraid that if I go with a tracked design it won't exert enough ground pressure to actually grip on ice, because at most the back (propulsion) end of the thing is only gonna weigh around 30-40 pounds unless I add ballast.
(snow and pavement traction seems like a nonissue, just ice)
Talked to a transmission shop about my dilemma with my transmission whining in everything but 4th. The conclusion was that the bearing kit installed last year did not include a needle bearing on the main two-piece shaft through the transmission that is used at all times except in 4th when the ratio is 1:1.
Between the issue with 2nd gear popping, reverse binding and 400000km on the odo the suggestion was to purchase either a low mileage or refurbished transmission. I looked into that last year but my finds for 2WD manual sidekick/tracker trannys were slim. Yesterday we found a salvaged one with only 75000km for $150 in Ontario. Should I go with a low mileage replacement and have the seals and bearings done or pay the extra for an already rebuilt transmission?
Yes.
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