[QUOTE=DPKiller;51637082]how about just dingle boring it and slap in new rings.[/QUOTE]
I was going to put a 20v in it eventually anyways
Went to go put cardboard in front of the radiator to help my vehicle actually reach nominal operating temp. Saw that I had to remove the fan shroud. Its 0f outside. Nope. fuck it. I'll drive with it operating at slightly less than normal temps.
you can also just block off the grill just like every other 18-wheeler on the road.
[QUOTE=MadCatMkII;51637086]I was going to put a 20v in it eventually anyways[/QUOTE]
I'm wondering whenever you can Frankenstein a 'stroker' 20V with a [URL="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_A_engine#7A"]7A-FE engine[/URL] and 20V [URL="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_A_engine#4A"]4A-GE[/URL] engine.
After all, the heads are interchangeable, and the cylinder bore is the same, although there is supposedly some small modifications required to the cooling system on the engine (and a Porsche Cam belt)
[QUOTE=DPKiller;51637143]you can also just block off the grill just like every other 18-wheeler on the road.[/QUOTE]
I'm not going to fuss over it too much. I don't want to zip tie shit to my grille
[editline]7th January 2017[/editline]
Especially on the exterior
Removing the bottom coating IS HELL. This tiny bit was about 6 hours work :suicide:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/iuYALsb.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/iPBB5NP.jpg[/img]
I've been thinking. Wouldn't my mechanic technically be liable for the engine damage the MR2 had? I dropped it off for the fuel pump in october, and waited all the way till last friday to pick it up, and he didn't say anything about the fact that he didn't actually put the fuel pump in it, and he let me take it knowing full well the pump was going bad. I'm pretty sure it ran lean and roasted the seals/valves. What do you guys think here?
That's not how fast engines break. If it has low compression now it had low compression when you bought it.
A car will simply not run with a failed pump. Sure it will spot and sputter but valve seals are a whole lot more durable than that.
[editline]7th January 2017[/editline]
Also you drove it, you pay for it.
"I know I have tannerite sitting beside my fan clutch and my mechanic knows it's going out so it's his fault if my truck explodes." NOPE dun work like that.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;51637976]That's not how fast engines break. If it has low compression now it had low compression when you bought it.
A car will simply not run with a failed pump. Sure it will spot and sputter but valve seals are a whole lot more durable than that.
[editline]7th January 2017[/editline]
Also you drove it, you pay for it.
"I know I have tannerite sitting beside my fan clutch and my mechanic knows it's going out so it's his fault if my truck explodes." NOPE dun work like that.[/QUOTE]
Fair enough :v:
Just spitballing here
Is it possible maybe the timing jumped somehow?
[QUOTE=MadCatMkII;51637993]Fair enough :v:
Just spitballing here
Is it possible maybe the timing jumped somehow?[/QUOTE]
only a leak down will prove what the cause is then you can diagnose from there to see if replacement or repair is needed.
So, can I take like a chunk of cardboard and just zip tie in front of the radiator in the engine bay? It never gets up to temp.
Before or after the cardboard it can't get up to temp?
The issue here is our little motors can't put out enough heat to heat up the radiator. That's near freezing water your putting into your engine...
Plus gotta make it worse by having the heater core just ripping it.
[editline]8th January 2017[/editline]
Look at photos online, some people are blocking 3/4 of their inlets with no issues blow 50*F.
I haven't done anything to it yet. But I suspect the thermostat is stuck open because even in the summer it took quite a while to get up to temp. So, having the heat on plus it being really cold out means it can never get up to temp.
I was just wondering if it would be safe to just cover most of it with card board and zip ties.
fix thermostat then cardboard her up.
I run a racing thermostat in my chevy #GMT400Issues at 160*F, Duing the 100*F+ days my truck takes exactly 5.5 miles to warm up doing 60mph, during the winter without cardboard it takes 8miles at 60 and 4 miles at speedo bottomed out, with cardboard now I got her down to my original 5.5 miles and have a stupidly toasty heater.
[QUOTE=Strontboer;51637339]Removing the bottom coating IS HELL. This tiny bit was about 6 hours work :suicide:
][/QUOTE]
Not to make light of misery but this is cool as hell!
Horn on my car is starting to sound a bit sick. Looking at repalcements.
[media]https://youtu.be/rYLZ5Ug-bZE[/media]
Should I?
[QUOTE=pentium;51638716]Horn on my car is starting to sound a bit sick. Looking at repalcements.
[media]https://youtu.be/rYLZ5Ug-bZE[/media]
Should I?[/QUOTE]
No get a Dixie horn setup
[QUOTE=pentium;51638716]Horn on my car is starting to sound a bit sick. Looking at repalcements.
[media]https://youtu.be/rYLZ5Ug-bZE[/media]
Should I?[/QUOTE]
You know come to think of it, the horn in my truck has about wheezed its last breath. I need some kinda horn that isnt boring oem and isnt "DEHSEL BRAH TRAIN HORNS FUCK YEAR"
[editline]7th January 2017[/editline]
...maybe an air raid siren
[QUOTE=Lerlth;51638239]So, can I take like a chunk of cardboard and just zip tie in front of the radiator in the engine bay? It never gets up to temp.[/QUOTE]
yeah. I prefer coroplast over cardboard though
What if I get both that and a proper replacement but put a toggle under the dash so I can switch either/or?
would be easier to just have a different button for the klaxon
I dont even think the horn works on my truck...
or was it the other truck...
or the other one :v:
I haven't had a dodge where the horn works yet haha! For the big black truck I think I'll rig up a train horn. I've never blown the horn, so warrant the situation I want to be sure as fuck someone hears it
In other news I drew up my new truss today, this profile (for the differential) took me 2.5 hours to make, all the measurements were starting to stress me out but it turned out wicked!
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/0C211007-CDCF-4F9A-A189-5AEFA7E6F59F_zpscmu0xawq.jpg[/thumb]
Lots of back and forth with the tape measure.
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/D4AC6392-2E2A-40B2-B902-2884A2FD0443_zpseogxcv6m.jpg[/thumb]
I farted around with a general design scheme trying to replicate one by Plan B, but didnt get too far on it tonight. I'll either finish it or abandon the spider web for something simpler
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/D08FEC23-99AB-4FB7-BE4B-70580B7C9D5A_zps1lb5pxoe.png[/thumb]
I love the work they do, but I hate the trucks they do them on. Big donk wheeled diesels, you look at the suspension and then the truck, not the truck and the suspension as one entity. Everything should flow together.
On top of that they're pretty useless
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/BB4AE553-8ADF-4825-8124-223E8CF9FF69_zpsddamajr6.jpeg[/thumb]
spider webs aren't my style, but speed holes sure are. I think doing a classier style like speed holes will net you more customers than the same old spider webs and skulls everyone does
This is the other design I usually follow
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/F39C9B6E-B77D-4AC2-9BEA-EC93AB2E1A37_zpsd3znodfr.jpeg[/thumb]
Speed holes are cool but with the burntable I'd like to make something a little more stylized
If you don't already, please make sure you have an actual jack in your vehicle and in your gf/bf/mom's/SO's vehicle. Not the suicide shit that comes with.
Helped someone change their tire tonight. On the highway. On an incline. With a suicide jack. In Sub-Zero temps. -10/10 calling a tow for the next one.
I alwase carry mine and stop at ANYONE on the side of the road, the main reason is for people with trailers and thoes suicide jacks will hardly work on trailers.
I just noticed i'd finally broken the gold threshold
I think i found the best use for the new avatar privileges
[QUOTE=DPKiller;51640028]I alwase carry mine and stop at ANYONE on the side of the road, the main reason is for people with trailers and thoes suicide jacks will hardly work on trailers.[/QUOTE]
I've never done it, but my scissor jack would definitely work on a trailer. Especially one of those low ones that you have over there.
I'm working on getting my drivers license, and in the meanwhile I'm considering getting my own car once I got my license, to motivate myself a bit more.
The only car that I really like at the moment is a Volkswagen Golf Mk2, because I really love the looks of this model and it's affordable in the Netherlands. What are the things I really should look out when finding a used one online? I get matches which have between 200.000-300.000 on the total mileage counter, with a few being even less.
One car which I found and really liked was kinda fishy because the stock ignition switch was bypassed and replaced with a custom one underneath the steering column because the original was apparently broken. My dad told me to be on the lookout for that since this model isn't hard to break in to apparently.
[QUOTE=Merijnwitje;51640212]I'm working on getting my drivers license, and in the meanwhile I'm considering getting my own car once I got my license, to motivate myself a bit more.
The only car that I really like at the moment is a Volkswagen Golf Mk2, because I really love the looks of this model and it's affordable in the Netherlands. What are the things I really should look out when finding a used one online? I get matches which have between 200.000-300.000 on the total mileage counter, with a few being even less.
One car which I found and really liked was kinda fishy because the stock ignition switch was bypassed and replaced with a custom one underneath the steering column because the original was apparently broken. My dad told me to be on the lookout for that since this model isn't hard to break in to apparently.[/QUOTE]
Get a Kadett. You see Golf 2's everywhere, but a Kadett will make people (and you) smile.
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