Automotive Addicts Lounge V5 - P0306 - General

[QUOTE=PandaJuggernaut;51127295]I'm at work ATM (getting paid to be on FP basically)[/QUOTE] With the mobile app it's never been easier

Lol I'm a software developer so I'm in front of a computer all day anyway

There's like a '93 Mercedes for $500 right down the road from me. Its folks weren't home so I couldn't ask what was wrong with it but on visual inspection it looks clean as fuck. Can't decide if I want to go back... Anything specific I should look for on this car?

[QUOTE=Grenadiac;51128543]There's like a '93 Mercedes for $500 right down the road from me. Its folks weren't home so I couldn't ask what was wrong with it but on visual inspection it looks clean as fuck. Can't decide if I want to go back... Anything specific I should look for on this car?[/QUOTE] Yes.

Ooooooooooo i really want a ford maverick. Preferably with a 302, but id be okay with the 200ci i6 too.

[QUOTE=matthaios;51128649]Yes.[/QUOTE] It's a 190E, went back to grab the phone number and model. I guess I'll see if I can set the money aside and give them a call.

Remember my sneak pics? On Saturday, shit is going down.

Guy says the 190e has bad compression in one cylinder and he was quoted $1500 for the repair, which is why the car is so cheap. Valves?

[QUOTE=Grenadiac;51128781]Guy says the 190e has bad compression in one cylinder and he was quoted $1500 for the repair, which is why the car is so cheap. Valves?[/QUOTE] I don't think I would when theirs 2 other 190e's in that price range with minimal issues wrong near you. Unless is a std.

if there's a bad valve chances are it's been flogged pretty hard and a $1500 repair bill is the least of your concerns. valves usually don't go bad unless it's spent some time at pretty high rpm. if it's got some miles on it it could just be a worn out cam lobe though [editline]29th September 2016[/editline] good candidate for an ls if you can convince him it's worth much less than he wants

and here is what my 800 dollars looks like off from Craigslist here in Maine where nobody has any love for anything but Subaru's and assorted trucks: 189k miles on the ML320, replaced the tie rods and got a fresh sticker. 143k on the E320 and I'm going to begin work to get it a sticker asap, interior is ratty because some idiot threw cigarette butts everywhere and smoked like a chimney. [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/IoOrevZ.jpg[/thumb]

Went and test drove the Merc. It idles real rough and eventually dies at idle but it drives around smoothly. Shifts smooth and everything. Relatively strong smell of gas. I like it but it looks like repairs will be expensive no matter the cause, God forbid it ends up being a cracked block or something.

[QUOTE=Grenadiac;51129166]Went and test drove the Merc. It idles real rough and eventually dies at idle but it drives around smoothly. Shifts smooth and everything. Relatively strong smell of gas. I like it but it looks like repairs will be expensive no matter the cause, God forbid it ends up being a cracked block or something.[/QUOTE] I've looked at a lot of 190e cars and every single one has had strange gremlins and in some cases major issues (head gaskets mostly, that fucking six I swear), I almost bought one with 430k miles on it for 200 bucks to slap antique plates on and goof around in.

I called around for quotes to paint my truck and everyone was $8000-10000. So i'm gonna save the cash and buy pro grade tools to paint it and do everything myself. Anybody know what I should look for? Will also be making a painting/bodywork shed, unless i can find a place to just shoot paint for me

[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;51129945]I called around for quotes to paint my truck and everyone was $8000-10000. So i'm gonna save the cash and buy pro grade tools to paint it and do everything myself. Anybody know what I should look for? Will also be making a painting/bodywork shed, unless i can find a place to just shoot paint for me[/QUOTE] I mean you could just open your wallet and just go like Eastwood on everything :v: B is for Build has been doing a lot of DIY painting and has messed up in pretty much every single way you could in a DIY job. He's been doing his Lotus build in the more proper way he's mentioned some channels in the past that cover it better.

[QUOTE=Grenadiac;51128781]Guy says the 190e has bad compression in one cylinder and he was quoted $1500 for the repair, which is why the car is so cheap. Valves?[/QUOTE] As an owner of a 1992 190E 2.6. It's without a shadow of doubt the head gasket. The 2.6s head gasket can fail in two ways, over-heating, or a break-down of material between two cylinder walls. The car down the street from you sounds like it has the latter. The M103 six cylinder is a fairly durable engine when maintained, but it's weakness is an iron block with an aluminum head. It doesn't eat head gaskets or warp heads like Northstar Caddys, but you will be doing coolant changes, water pump replacements, and thermostat replacements at the factory interval. That's 3 years on coolant and 100k on the other two honorable mentions. To be honest for $1500, you're better off swapping in a lower mileage 3.0L M103 to replace the inefficient 2.6 for a gain of 30 HP. But buying the car, and doing work on it is your call. Common problems with 190Es other than the head gaskets that conk out every 80-100k miles are as follows: - Oil leak at oil level sender - Transmission input shaft &/or pump seal - Rusty transmission cooler lines - Cracked radiators - High idle (bad idle control valve usually) - Rough starting (fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, and/or vapor lock in fuel dist) - Sloppy gearshift knob (shift bushings, Mercedessource sells a $56 tool for this, or make your own tool) - Failed passenger head rest lift (caused by idiots) - Window regulator failures (window regulators aren't refrigerators, don't forget to lube them) - Sunroof & sunroof timing faults (I can elaborate on this until we're all in graves) - Oil leak through front cam seal fouling the camshaft driven ignition distributor - Inoperable autoclimate (typically capacitors on the pushbutton unit board or non-functional sensors) These problems are the vast majority of what commonly goes wrong with M103 Benzes of this period in general. I have experienced all but the first one with my 190E, which is still off the road awaiting my lazy ass to install a nissens radiator. Otherwise they're solid little cars that drive well and are very safe. The 190E also has the best aftermarket and parts support out of all Benzes of that time period. Most of the stuff that bolts to the car except the multi-link rear suspension, body parts, interiors, and a couple small bits were pulled from the MB parts bin. As for your cracked block concern, you would know if it was cracked because the engine wouldn't run or would spew fluids everywhere. I've never heard of a cracked block on an M103. As far as the head gasket, if it's a 5 spd manual or a very rare sportline model, then it's worth buying and repairing. If it's not either, then $500 should get you a 190E runner with no head gasket problems. Finally, always check for rust. 190Es like to rust where the radiator lower bracket meets the frame rails, below the rear windshield, below the battery tray, and in the spare tire well. Floors generally don't rust, but when I look at one, I get on the ground and give the underside a few good slaps with an open palm. And also: - The smell of gas can be caused by a range of things, the most common being improper idle mixture and fuel dist plunger leaks

Saw this little gem on my local sales listings [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/KzCAxSM.png[/IMG]

[QUOTE=Slithers;51130061]As an owner of a 1992 190E 2.6. It's without a shadow of doubt the head gasket. The 2.6s head gasket can fail in two ways, over-heating, or a break-down of material between two cylinder walls. The car down the street from you sounds like it has the latter. The M103 six cylinder is a fairly durable engine when maintained, but it's weakness is an iron block with an aluminum head. It doesn't eat head gaskets or warp heads like Northstar Caddys, but you will be doing coolant changes, water pump replacements, and thermostat replacements at the factory interval. That's 3 years on coolant and 100k on the other two honorable mentions. To be honest for $1500, you're better off swapping in a lower mileage 3.0L M103 to replace the inefficient 2.6 for a gain of 30 HP. But buying the car, and doing work on it is your call. Common problems with 190Es other than the head gaskets that conk out every 80-100k miles are as follows: - Oil leak at oil level sender - Transmission input shaft &/or pump seal - Rusty transmission cooler lines - Cracked radiators - High idle (bad idle control valve usually) - Rough starting (fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, and/or vapor lock in fuel dist) - Sloppy gearshift knob (shift bushings, Mercedessource sells a $56 tool for this, or make your own tool) - Failed passenger head rest lift (caused by idiots) - Window regulator failures (window regulators aren't refrigerators, don't forget to lube them) - Sunroof & sunroof timing faults (I can elaborate on this until we're all in graves) - Oil leak through front cam seal fouling the camshaft driven ignition distributor - Inoperable autoclimate (typically capacitors on the pushbutton unit board or non-functional sensors) These problems are the vast majority of what commonly goes wrong with M103 Benzes of this period in general. I have experienced all but the first one with my 190E, which is still off the road awaiting my lazy ass to install a nissens radiator. Otherwise they're solid little cars that drive well and are very safe. The 190E also has the best aftermarket and parts support out of all Benzes of that time period. Most of the stuff that bolts to the car except the multi-link rear suspension, body parts, interiors, and a couple small bits were pulled from the MB parts bin. As for your cracked block concern, you would know if it was cracked because the engine wouldn't run or would spew fluids everywhere. I've never heard of a cracked block on an M103. As far as the head gasket, if it's a 5 spd manual or a very rare sportline model, then it's worth buying and repairing. If it's not either, then $500 should get you a 190E runner with no head gasket problems. Finally, always check for rust. 190Es like to rust where the radiator lower bracket meets the frame rails, below the rear windshield, below the battery tray, and in the spare tire well. Floors generally don't rust, but when I look at one, I get on the ground and give the underside a few good slaps with an open palm. And also: - The smell of gas can be caused by a range of things, the most common being improper idle mixture and fuel dist plunger leaks[/QUOTE] Thanks, this is really helpful. We can do the work ourselves, so really we're just paying for the gasket itself, there's no way we'd pay a shop $1500 for a head gasket replacement. The rest of the car is really solid except the windows in the back don't roll down and the AC doesn't blow cold. Think it's worth it? I have never seen one of these for $500 around here. DPKiller says there's one in north Dallas for $500, but having seen this car personally it is very clean and he's just replaced a bunch of the easily accessible parts. It has a new battery, new tires, new alternator, and some other stuff I forgot. I really enjoyed driving it.

[QUOTE=Grenadiac;51130158]Thanks, this is really helpful. We can do the work ourselves, so really we're just paying for the gasket itself, there's no way we'd pay a shop $1500 for a head gasket replacement. The rest of the car is really solid except the windows in the back don't roll down and the AC doesn't blow cold. Think it's worth it? I have never seen one of these for $500 around here. DPKiller says there's one in north Dallas for $500, but having seen this car personally it is very clean and he's just replaced a bunch of the easily accessible parts. I really enjoyed driving it.[/QUOTE] I'd try to get him down on price then. If it's clean it's definitely worth a shot. The fact that it runs and drives is a good indication that it's worth saving. Another thing I didn't mention is that the window switches themselves can fail internally, so make sure you find a switch that works and plug it into other sockets to check the function of the inoperable windows. I can provide a guide on how to do that on request. The AC not blowing cold is an easy DIY, just reseal the system, replace the drier, and the pressure and temperature switches on the drier. Be sure to drain oil by cracking the low pressure hose at the compressor and let it drip empty. The oil used in these compressors is PAG-46 (it's hydroscopic). Only you can determine if it's worth it, I will say that my project is pretty fun though. Here is my [URL="http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w201-190-class/2676385-650-190e-2-6-a.html"]project thread[/URL].

I got the fan all hooked up in the vic, it spins, but intermittently. I dont know if id call it working or not. The only way I have to test is to turn the ac on and start the car, but then I dont know if its sposed to blow all the time or just sometimes. Its not like I can drive it around in traffic in the heat to see if it comes on to cool the coolant, its been kinda chilly the past few days. Also, I popped out my orifice tube, found whats probably some teflon rings. fack. EDIT: Nope, not teflon. Some aluminum chunkies and some odd fibrous schmoo. The AC is still doing the same thing, where the high side shoots up to 400psi. In hindsight it could be that Im used to servicing the ac when its 90 degrees out, and now that its 60, Im overcharging it.

[QUOTE=Snickerdoodle;51130075]Saw this little gem on my local sales listings [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/KzCAxSM.png[/IMG][/QUOTE] Yes I know it's supercharged but does it run?!??!?!?!?!??!

[QUOTE=Birdman101;51128681]Ooooooooooo i really want a ford maverick. Preferably with a 302, but id be okay with the 200ci i6 too.[/QUOTE] Where do you live? My friends dad has a pretty decent looking Maverick Grabber for sell. It needs work, but it looks solid.

[QUOTE=Lerlth;51131725]Where do you live? My friends dad has a pretty decent looking Maverick Grabber for sell. It needs work, but it looks solid.[/QUOTE] Southeast SD Which engine? EDIT: oooooo goody, look what I found, a badge engineered maverick [url]http://siouxfalls.craigslist.org/cto/5785611779.html[/url]

[QUOTE=Birdman101;51131730]Southeast SD Which engine? EDIT: oooooo goody, look what I found, a badge engineered maverick [url]http://siouxfalls.craigslist.org/cto/5785611779.html[/url][/QUOTE] 302. He even has all of the stuff to turn it into a Boss 302. He's located in St. Joe, Missouri.

Know how much he wants for it?

I think the last time I talked to him he wanted $3K for it. But I'm not sure, haven't talked to him in a long time. I doubt he's gotten rid of it. He has his own little junkyard. It looks way nicer than that one you posted.

Anyone else here try one of those o2 sensor spacers/spark plug spacers to eliminate a cat CEL? Just want to pass smog and now have to pay $600 for a new California exhaust manifold. My second option is the fed-standard tubular manifold, which is nearly identical with the heat shield installed.

Hmmm, a five hour drive for a 3k maverick. That really is tepting, but the more i think about it, the more i remember ive got no room for another project and im trying to save for a house. Hopefully whats gonna happen is my parents find a new place and i buy their house from them. Maybe ill hit you up next year and get in contact with your uncle.

[T]http://i.imgur.com/SEg13kn.jpg[/t] [T]http://i.imgur.com/2uW60r9.jpg[/t] '99 Legacy Outback SUS. 106k miles. Only made for one year. Talked them down to $2000, just trying to get the cash together :(

Sure you don't want the beetle? :v: