If you run them dry you have to bleed air from the entire system.
Take the fuel supply line off that goes into the injection pump, click the key over and it SHOULD run the fuel pump for a few seconds, do that until fuel pisses out. Put it back on the injection pump but not too tight (tighten it and then back it off as much as you can without taking the wrench off so you can tighten it in one turn = less fuel pissed everywhere), prime it again and it should shoot a good chunk of air out until its solid high pressure diesel straight everywhere.
Then you have to move on to where the injection pump lines go into the injectors, crack the line off of half as many cylinders as your engine has (2 on a 4 cyl, 3 on a 6 cyl, 4 on a 8 cyl), more you get the better.
Turn over the vehicle for 10 seconds until fuel pisses out the lines, then put them on. Lines are bled.
Now turn over the vehicle and it should sputter and knock to life.
TL/DR DONT RUN A DIESEL ENGINE OUT OF FUEL
[editline]16th October 2016[/editline]
Most of them are lubricated by fuel, some are lubricated by oil separately (like the P7100 on a 12 valve). I know the bosch VP44 on a 24 valve cummins was notorious for wearing out from lack of fuel. I've done 2 myself.
New ultra low sulfer diesels, while better for the envriroment, are worse for diesel engines as the sulfer acted as a fuel lubricant. 2 stroke outboard motor oil is one of the better fuel lubes thats easy to find, I think howes when mixed at a higher concentration than they recommend is another good one.
I try to run shell V power diesel as the cetane rating is 52 or 53 which is the European minimum standard for diesel fuel (shit runs better and mo powa). Also has up to 20% biodiesel which is some of the best fuel lubricant.
i thought biodiesel had less lubricity. Maybe im thinking of wvo or jetfuel.
[url]http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76-speciality-forums/64-maintenance-fluids/177728-lubricity-additive-study-results.html#/topics/177728?_k=qjgisg[/url]
I remember reading this and it was ranked the highest. Googling "fuel lubricity biodiesel" comes back with a lot saying its a benefit of biodiesel alongside reduced emissions.
[QUOTE=Timezbrick;51210361]I've might have missed it, but what car is it Gernandiac? The interior looks a lot like a bmw, but the hood is giving me second thoughts.[/QUOTE]
DP's old 1971 Mercedes 220D. Should end up being a great car.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;51211165]I know the bosch VP44 on a 24 valve cummins was notorious for wearing out from lack of fuel. I've done 2 myself.[/QUOTE]
Can confirm, the guy who bought my old Golf (with Bosch mechanical diesel pump) later said the pump showed wear signs inside it like it had problem siphoning fuel from the tank.
Which made sense as the old fuel filter (metal can type) was rusted to hell and back, so it hadn't been changed ever by the guy I bought it from, probably never bled for water either.
it was the first thing I changed.
[QUOTE=Birdman101;51211265]i thought biodiesel had less lubricity. Maybe im thinking of wvo or jetfuel.[/QUOTE]
Biodiesel has a problem with "diesel rot" due to the remnants of alive micro organisms.
Especially in diesel exposed to sunlight and rarely drained water trap in the fuel filter, or water build-up in the fuel tank.
But that's pretty much the only downside there is.
Ah. I havent researched this in a while, but Biodiesel is pretty much filtered wvo, right? Or do you have to do some sciency shit to it?
[QUOTE=Birdman101;51211370]Ah. I havent researched this in a while, but Biodiesel is pretty much filtered wvo, right? Or do you have to do some sciency shit to it?[/QUOTE]
It's treated so so it has the pretty much the same viscosity and "cleanliness" as real diesel (well apart from occasional micro organisms).
Otherwise commonrail injectors would throw a fit over it, mechanical injectors wouldn't give a fuck tho'.
Check out this sick turbo I just picked up. I'm going to have so much boost.
On a totally unrelated subject, where can I get springs that handle 10,000 RPM? It's for.. Uhh... Getting lots of exhaust out quickly.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/NEn5dey.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=Lerlth;51211468]Check out this sick turbo I just picked up. I'm going to have so much boost.
On a totally unrelated subject, where can I get springs that handle 10,000 RPM? It's for.. Uhh... Getting lots of exhaust out quickly.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/NEn5dey.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
What on earth is that from, a bulldozer? A train?
[QUOTE=rampageturke 2;51210610]you need to look deeper than just "snapping". things can snap the same but be characteristically different, which comes down to its material properties yes, which goes back to my main point that different grades and different treatments can vary a material wildly, even simply where it was manufactured.[/QUOTE]
They can vary in material properties, but if everything else is held constant and only the material changes, the piece will always fail the same way when a failure inducing (this load will be different for different materials, and the elongation and amount of necking will also be different) load is applied. No one is disputing how different grades vary in their properties, or how manufacture can cause variance. But when it's apples to apples except the material used, a given part will fail the same way.
Now if you really want to be small, you could argue that the difference in crystallinity of two castings of different materials has an effect, but you'd be like one of the French engineers who tried to build a sea level canal through Panama in the 1880s.
Now lets say you have two bars, one is made of steel, the other is made of aluminum. Both go through as many loading cycles as necessary to make them fail due to fatigue. If the design is more or less the same, and the parts are loaded the same way (without exceeding σy of each part, but above σ-engi)(loads will have to vary or the aluminum one will have a greater cross sectional area), do they fail in the same place and the same way? Yes. The mode of failure is the same (fatigue), and the point of failure is the same, but the materials are different.
Now lets say you have two gusset plates, and again one is aluminum and one is steel. You have two rivets (1 per end) through each gusset plate and the gusset plate is being used to hold a bridge to it's support. Now for shits and giggles lets say these gusset plates are in tension, and the rivets are infinitely strong. Where do both gussets break if the gussets are rectangular in shape? They will fail by the load ripping the rivet through the plate like how when you rip a page out of a spiral notebook, the paper at the edge where the spiral is shears but not the center of your page.
Since you guys are still discussing it:
[t]https://s18.postimg.org/c4gv6wquv/DSC_0187.png?dl=1[/t]
The tow hitch in question.
[t]https://s18.postimg.org/vl1ktflyv/DSC_0189.png[/t]
The "max recommended downward load" label in the trunk lid frame.
Have been pondering on getting a steel fixed tow hitch assembly from the VW Passat based on the same platform, should be plug & play.
So, I really want to start my next racecar project. But I don't really have any space for it. I used to be able to use the company building but since business is going good we need the space for work.
We have a semi-big garden (about 10k sq ft in american terms) and I was thinking about something like this
[img]http://i.imgur.com/Wr1XgTj.jpg[/img]
Anyone have any experience with this or better idea's? Obviously I want a permanent garage but it's too expensive right now.
snip.
10k sq ft is bigger than most houses
God I wish I had 10k sq ft of land
Yeah it's pretty big, downside is that we live in quite an urban area. So most of the land is behind the house and unreachable for cars...
[editline]16th October 2016[/editline]
There's only about 2000 sq ft available, of which a large part is a driveway you need to use. Still it's big enough for a garage. But there's no money for that atm so I'm just looking for the best way to make due with what I have. The upside is that the part I can reach with a car is all paved.
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;51211626]What on earth is that from, a bulldozer? A train?[/QUOTE]
I think it's from a 19L Cummins. Lol. Not sure.
EDIT:
Yup. VCE19.RJDTRA A193 Cummins
[QUOTE=Van-man;51211740]Since you guys are still discussing it:
[t]https://s18.postimg.org/c4gv6wquv/DSC_0187.png?dl=1[/t]
The tow hitch in question.
[t]https://s18.postimg.org/vl1ktflyv/DSC_0189.png[/t]
The "max recommended downward load" label in the trunk lid frame.
Have been pondering on getting a steel fixed tow hitch assembly from the VW Passat based on the same platform, should be plug & play.[/QUOTE]
Might not be much of an improvement. Not that I really see the point in having a lot of tongue weight. Mine's only good for 75, which seems to be common among regular cars. (My mom's van and my mate's truck have a 100kg tongue weights)
So my brother was driving my Crown Vic and it doesn't have any oil pressure and he says its making a sort of clicking sound. I'm thinking either the oil pump went out or the screen on the oil pickup is clogged. Any ideas?
Well, the shitty news wagon just rolled in
[media]https://imgur.com/a/WyVht[/media]
my camper has a leaky roof and water damage in two separate areas. I tore out the first one, and Im about to start on the second one after some ramen. I guess this means the resealing project got pushed up from next spring to next week.
On the brighter side, yesterday I painted the stripes on my camper to match the truck, and repainted my obscure 70s camper manufacturer badges. Also, Ive got a 100w solar panel sitting in my living room, waiting for me to fix the roof and mount it.
[QUOTE=Lerlth;51211468]Check out this sick turbo I just picked up. I'm going to have so much boost.
On a totally unrelated subject, where can I get springs that handle 10,000 RPM? It's for.. Uhh... Getting lots of exhaust out quickly.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/NEn5dey.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
Christ almighty what is it going in?
Picked up a 04 BMW 325. 120k miles with warranty B)
So on terms with my city ordinance that I got for my 2 cars that aren't plated. I had some old plates that are still legal that I threw onto one of them, do you think the city will run the plates? Because AFAIK it's the city, not the police. So I'm not sure if they or have the power to run them. As long as it's plates right :v: ?
[QUOTE=Zombii;51210564]huh, that seems like a pretty sweet app, I'll check it out. Is it paid?
[editline]16th October 2016[/editline]
What mount are you using for your phone?[/QUOTE]
It's a $20 app, which isn't too bad since I had $30 of google opinion rewards ahah. It's about $10 for an OBDII reader, although I think it's like $50+ for a good GPS reader if you want more accurate lap times than what I have. Also I just have some generic mount from Target. Don't remember which one it is.
[editline]16th October 2016[/editline]
[QUOTE=NuclearAnnhilation;51213915]Picked up a 04 BMW 325. 120k miles with warranty B)[/QUOTE]
Ayy, E46 buddies. Warranty is pretty nice, although I don't think I'm eligible considering how many things have been done to my car
[QUOTE=crazycory65;51213931]So on terms with my city ordinance that I got for my 2 cars that aren't plated. I had some old plates that are still legal that I threw onto one of them, do you think the city will run the plates? Because AFAIK it's the city, not the police. So I'm not sure if they or have the power to run them. As long as it's plates right :v: ?[/QUOTE]
Heh I know in parts of Oregon, you can just buy plates with tags and put them on your car. Not sure about any paperwork involved, but I guess you can get around inspections by doing that.
Lol who knows. I got a letter in the mail today about the tent in my driveway and the inoperable vehicle under it (the Celica that's in the garage now). :v:
Just means I gotta take the tent down I guess? But it's winter soon, so who cares. They never said anything about the car beside the garage, even better. I'll take that as a win.
[QUOTE=gaboer;51213994]
Ayy, E46 buddies. Warranty is pretty nice, although I don't think I'm eligible considering how many things have been done to my car[/QUOTE]
Yeah I'm pumped. Always been an American car guy but something about BMWs makes my ding dang dingle. Honestly I really wanted an e39 but this e46 is just as nice. Yeah the dealer gave me a 90 day warranty, I'm gonna bring it to a mom and pop shop and tell them to be as anal as possible while inspecting it so I can get as much stuff fixed for free as I can.
But I have to figure out how to be an ultra douche now, BMW AND a mustang? Perfect combo
[QUOTE=Apache249;51213772]Christ almighty what is it going in?[/QUOTE]
Well, there's no car I would ever own that could spool that beast. I mean, a Viper might be able to start the damn thing, but that came off of a 19L engine...
[QUOTE=Lerlth;51214536]Well, there's no car I would ever own that could spool that beast. I mean, a Viper might be able to start the damn thing, but that came off of a 19L engine...[/QUOTE]
You're putting it in a truck?
[QUOTE=Apache249;51213772]Christ almighty what is it going in?[/QUOTE]
in his sitting room as a coffee table i imagine
[QUOTE=NuclearAnnhilation;51213915]Picked up a 04 BMW 325. 120k miles with warranty B)[/QUOTE]
aww yess beamer brothers rejoice
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