[QUOTE=PandaJuggernaut;51225407]S10 or fullsize? cause while the 350 swap into an S10 is pretty easy it also has a tendency to thrash driveline parts[/QUOTE]
S10
Yeah, I was thinking he probably leaned it out to get it to burn cleaner but that means when you go full throttle it'll start choking on the air. Probably need some more fuel, should be a fuel adjustment screw on the side. Not sure though, I don't do carbs.
Google it! Just because you dont do carbs doesn't mean you cant try to learn how!
[QUOTE=Lerlth;51226628]Yeah, I was thinking he probably leaned it out to get it to burn cleaner but that means when you go full throttle it'll start choking on the air. Probably need some more fuel, should be a fuel adjustment screw on the side. Not sure though, I don't do carbs.[/QUOTE]
Do you have an mechanic or electric fuel pump?
once my electric full pump got warm it would pump less and less fuel until it just stopped pumping, it also had a hard time pumping because the egg-head that messed with the fuel system before put a fuel filter back the wrong way around.
Woh woh, I'm not the one here with a 440 RV. Lol. I'm just saying it sounds like the symptoms of lean or rich.
I'm a proud EFI man over here. Never owned a carbed vehicle, and don't plan too. I kind of want to get a /6 truck or something, but I'd definitely swap it over to EFI.
[QUOTE=werrek;51226110]How bulletproof are synchros? I've been driving a Mazdaspeed 3 for the past year, and its clutch literally has no bite point. (Im pretty sure it's the soft, tuned clutch fix Mazda put out a few years ago for the MS3's/MS6's). Because of this, I basically grind gears after not fully decompressing the clutch when quick-shifting at high RPM. It doesn't happen all the time, but its not uncommon. How tough are those little things? I really dont want to double clutch every gear in the next years of owning this car.[/QUOTE]
Keep doing that and they'll die fairly soon. I just slam the clutch to the floor whenever I shift, doesn't matter where the bite point is then.
[QUOTE=werrek;51226110]I've been driving a Mazdaspeed 3 for the past year, and its clutch literally has no bite point.[/QUOTE]
All Mazdas are like this but the speeds are worse for some reason. The bite point is there, but if you aren't driving with thin soled shoes, you're gonna miss it basically every time. The Mazda clutch is pretty much an on off switch. Like Gulen said, put your foot all the way down, or play hide and seek with it.
[QUOTE=Lerlth;51226779]Woh woh, I'm not the one here with a 440 RV. Lol. I'm just saying it sounds like the symptoms of lean or rich.
I'm a proud EFI man over here. Never owned a carbed vehicle, and don't plan too. I kind of want to get a /6 truck or something, but I'd definitely swap it over to EFI.[/QUOTE]
Oh, I should read further back next time :v:
[QUOTE=Timezbrick;51226770]Do you have an mechanic or electric fuel pump?
once my electric full pump got warm it would pump less and less fuel until it just stopped pumping, it also had a hard time pumping because the egg-head that messed with the fuel system before put a fuel filter back the wrong way around.[/QUOTE]
Well for whatever it's worth the 440 [I]does[/I] have an electric fuel pump, but I only run it when starting the car or on tall hills. Everything else is handled by the mechanical pump.
[editline]19th October 2016[/editline]
[QUOTE=Aetna;51226597]He probably made it run a bit lean for some cleaner emissions to pass smog. Could be anything from a mixture screw to gunk in the carb. Best thing you can do is remove the carb and give it a good cleaning, there's tons of tutorials on how to do so. Carbs aren't that complicated.[/QUOTE]
It's my guess that it's quite lean, too, however it has two adjustment screws and I just don't know which way to turn them and how much to turn them to richen it out. The last thing I want is to take a visit to flood city.
[QUOTE=Birdman101;51226394]Well, I may be being silly, but I consider the K5 to be the one true blazer and all other types to be badge engineered wannabe blazers.[/QUOTE]
S10s are decent little trucks, but it's not like they could call it a blazer II :v:
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;51227243]Well for whatever it's worth the 440 [I]does[/I] have an electric fuel pump, but I only run it when starting the car or on tall hills. Everything else is handled by the mechanical pump.
[editline]19th October 2016[/editline]
It's my guess that it's quite lean, too, however it has two adjustment screws and I just don't know which way to turn them and how much to turn them to richen it out. The last thing I want is to take a visit to flood city.[/QUOTE]
If he tuned it lean to pass smog, he probably did more than adjusting the mix screw. Most of the time, the mix screw only affects the mix at idle anyways. He proably put smaller jets in it. The only way to know for sure is to ask him. If nothing else, have someone rev it up and sniff the exhaust. If it smells acidic and burns your eyes, its too rich. If not, its probably too lean. Also it sounds like the accellerator pump might not be working right.
For sure though id just ask the guy that fucked it up what he did
[QUOTE=werrek;51226110]How bulletproof are synchros? I've been driving a Mazdaspeed 3 for the past year, and its clutch literally has no bite point. (Im pretty sure it's the soft, tuned clutch fix Mazda put out a few years ago for the MS3's/MS6's). Because of this, I basically grind gears after not fully decompressing the clutch when quick-shifting at high RPM. It doesn't happen all the time, but its not uncommon. How tough are those little things? I really dont want to double clutch every gear in the next years of owning this car.[/QUOTE]
Not at all, the symptom you are describing is basically the transmission being worn out and not strong enough to sync the gears at the speed that you wish to. It can be made much worse by old transmission fluid which should really be changed every 15k if you drive it hard.
It's also made even worse by a worn out pressure plate which isn't disengaging the clutch fast enough or a clutch master and slave which are worn out and have squishy, water contaminated old fluid. All of these greatly accelerate wear on the trans which can easily half the life of a trans from poor maintenance. What you really need to do is rev match, not double clutch. That means on shifts like 1st to 2nd, clutch, wait 2 seconds til revs drop, shift, unclutch. Then the input shaft spins down along with the engine and when you hit the shifter there's less inertia that the syncro has to burn away.
Unless you're trying to get quarter mile times, there's no reason to slam the fuck out of the gears because fast is smooth. If you want to beat the hell out of your clutch, get a quality clutch and flywheel setup which is more suited to how you want to drive it.
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;51227243]Well for whatever it's worth the 440 [I]does[/I] have an electric fuel pump, but I only run it when starting the car or on tall hills. Everything else is handled by the mechanical pump.
[editline]19th October 2016[/editline]
It's my guess that it's quite lean, too, however it has two adjustment screws and I just don't know which way to turn them and how much to turn them to richen it out. The last thing I want is to take a visit to flood city.[/QUOTE]
Generally left is richer, right is leaner. Unless theyre air screws, then its opposite. Do some research on that specific carb before you play with it too much.
[QUOTE=werrek;51226110]How bulletproof are synchros? I've been driving a Mazdaspeed 3 for the past year, and its clutch literally has no bite point. (Im pretty sure it's the soft, tuned clutch fix Mazda put out a few years ago for the MS3's/MS6's). Because of this, I basically grind gears after not fully decompressing the clutch when quick-shifting at high RPM. It doesn't happen all the time, but its not uncommon. How tough are those little things? I really dont want to double clutch every gear in the next years of owning this car.[/QUOTE]
you don't have to double clutch, just learn to rev match properly. it's instinctive once youo have a feel for the motor
Wow, neat. Drove my car last night and everything was completely normal...now it doesn't start. When I turn the key it sounds like the starter won't engage. Just clickclickclickclick
[editline]19th October 2016[/editline]
Lights on the dash flash a little too. Like what the fuck, out of the blue
[editline]19th October 2016[/editline]
When I turn the key I used to hear the fuel pump prime, now it sounds....off.
[editline]19th October 2016[/editline]
Now when I turn the key to the on position I don't even get a CE light
[editline]19th October 2016[/editline]
Absolutely nothing when I try and start it. RIP
Your battery is flat, or loose battery shoe.
Checked my battery connections and one was slightly moist under the boot, disconnecting and reconnecting both terminals gave me dash lights again, but my starter still just clicks. Is it even possible for a battery to just die with no warning?
Just realized my radio isn't turning on either.
Something shorted somewhere
Yes batteries can die in the blue, you left something on.
el charge batt, report back.
Showed up to a car dealership to ask about financing an '11 Ford Fiesta and they had me test drive the wrong one. '14 Fiesta ST with a 6-speed manual. Told them I'll wait till next April to make a decision (I can't afford it and don't want it) and they professionally told me to fuck off. Free time well spent.
[QUOTE=Xanadu;51229026]Showed up to a car dealership to ask about financing an '11 Ford Fiesta and they had me test drive the wrong one. '14 Fiesta ST with a 6-speed manual. Told them I'll wait till next April to make a decision (I can't afford it and don't want it) and they professionally told me to fuck off. Free time well spent.[/QUOTE]
dat 0% doe
[QUOTE=DPKiller;51229075]dat 0% doe[/QUOTE]
0% fucks given. I stalled it but only once.
Lol, brother just texted me. He turned off my headlights when he got home from work last night. Forgot to mention anything when I talked to him this morning.
[img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/Shd1xPP.jpg[/img_thumb]
Drove around North Jersey/New York trying out the twist and turns. Felt amazing.
[QUOTE=Koolguy11;51229519][img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/Shd1xPP.jpg[/img_thumb]
Drove around North Jersey/New York trying out the twist and turns. Felt amazing.[/QUOTE]
Jelly
Used eterna-seal roof tape to seal up the seams around the roof of the camper.
[t]https://i.imgur.com/daLGqUJ.jpg[/t]
The next day that I get off work and the weather looks good, Im painting my whole roof with kool seal. This roof is going to outlast the rest of the camper.
Well the control arm went back to straight after a few hits from the sledge, so no need to replacement! Since I get to keep it that means I had to extract all the bushings for replacement. That was tonight's job.
Preparing the sacrifice.
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/0A2C5A81-4E18-4730-A590-92B6A6B55958_zpsyruytlbp.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/0A2C5A81-4E18-4730-A590-92B6A6B55958_zpsyruytlbp.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
One out.
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/45AF5822-BF06-4C4F-A277-201A9156EAD4_zpsun36k4tk.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/45AF5822-BF06-4C4F-A277-201A9156EAD4_zpsun36k4tk.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Nine out.
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/E7D0006A-2C0E-4F90-8949-18ADC1AA53DF_zpsmrlratvo.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/E7D0006A-2C0E-4F90-8949-18ADC1AA53DF_zpsmrlratvo.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
That was exciting, glad it's over, lol. Hopefully the new bushings hammer in easy enough.
typically you have to press them in. I've gotten away with a bottle jack and some 2x4s screwed together
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