Ah yes the joys of no tools, lol. One of the things I'm looking forward to someday when I have a garage that can fit more than a car and a toolbox is getting a bearing press. The automotive world really opens up with one.
Edit: Hahaha Fuck me. I didn't realize most poly-style bushings like I planned on use the factory outer sleeve... like the sleeve that I worked so hard to remove. Well shit, OEM rubber stuff for me I guess.
I love my Supra but I just got a nostalgia trip looking through my old photos. This is a photo from when I was on the track, racing my friend in his white EF. This is the most fun I've ever had on a track. My EK made 169 hp and his EF made 150 hp, but my car was heavier and he was a better driver than me, so we had a really close race for 6 or 7 laps, and it was just an absolute blast.
I miss my green screamer :C
[t]https://scontent-fra3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/t31.0-8/921438_10151545590414035_2079187841_o.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=clutch2;51231593]Ah yes the joys of no tools, lol. One of the things I'm looking forward to someday when I have a garage that can fit more than a car and a toolbox is getting a bearing press. The automotive world really opens up with one.
Edit: Hahaha Fuck me. I didn't realize most poly-style bushings like I planned on use the factory outer sleeve... like the sleeve that I worked so hard to remove. Well shit, OEM rubber stuff for me I guess.[/QUOTE]
go solid aluminum for extra racecar
Looking at sprucing up the engine bay of my car. I'd like to put a small lamp in like the cedric from the 50's however it's very hard anything similar.
Would anyone happen to know if they sell aftermarket kits for that sort of thing?
[QUOTE=Sims_doc;51232035]Looking at sprucing up the engine bay of my car. I'd like to put a small lamp in like the cedric from the 50's however it's very hard anything similar.
Would anyone happen to know if they sell aftermarket kits for that sort of thing?[/QUOTE]
Youre not from Japan you can't get away with weird shit like that.
[QUOTE=Ferosso;51231878]I love my Supra but I just got a nostalgia trip looking through my old photos. This is a photo from when I was on the track, racing my friend in his white EF. This is the most fun I've ever had on a track. My EK made 169 hp and his EF made 150 hp, but my car was heavier and he was a better driver than me, so we had a really close race for 6 or 7 laps, and it was just an absolute blast.
I miss my green screamer :C
[t]https://scontent-fra3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/t31.0-8/921438_10151545590414035_2079187841_o.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
Damn that's a nice photo. Which wheels are those? they fit very nicely. I am a proud owner of an EX mate, civic's are the best.
I need to get my civic up and running. the thing still has the trans out and I'm pretty sure all 4 hubs are fucked.
still don't know if I'm gonna try getting it titled or just use it as a race car
Haven't posted in a bit, just put a $1000 deposit down on a full suspension for my truck. For those who know suspension, King shocks/front coilovers, among other parts. 12" of travel in the front, 14" in the back, 2.5 diameter with external reservoir.
Basically, I can do this in a 7000lb diesel truck: [thumb]https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/9e/ff/82/9eff82206e16e8888daf46f0c266b6ab.jpg[/thumb]
New fender is on, engine bay is rewired, interior is getting reformed... god why am I spending so much time on this truck...
[QUOTE=clutch2;51231593]Ah yes the joys of no tools, lol. One of the things I'm looking forward to someday when I have a garage that can fit more than a car and a toolbox is getting a bearing press. The automotive world really opens up with one.
Edit: Hahaha Fuck me. I didn't realize most poly-style bushings like I planned on use the factory outer sleeve... like the sleeve that I worked so hard to remove. Well shit, OEM rubber stuff for me I guess.[/QUOTE]
I've never seen a poly bushing require the OEM sleeve, typically they just slide right in on their own with a bit of grease. Is this just the case with your Celica?
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;51233228]Haven't posted in a bit, just put a $1000 deposit down on a full suspension for my truck. For those who know suspension, King shocks/front coilovers, among other parts. 12" of travel in the front, 14" in the back, 2.5 diameter with external reservoir.
Basically, I can do this in a 7000lb diesel truck: [thumb]https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/9e/ff/82/9eff82206e16e8888daf46f0c266b6ab.jpg[/thumb]
New fender is on, engine bay is rewired, interior is getting reformed... god why am I spending so much time on this truck...[/QUOTE]
You have deserts like that in Canada?
Al Gore, we should have listened.
[QUOTE=butre;51232781]I need to get my civic up and running. the thing still has the trans out and I'm pretty sure all 4 hubs are fucked.
still don't know if I'm gonna try getting it titled or just use it as a race car[/QUOTE]
Here in Argentina civic's are considered to be medium-high quality cars. They are expensive as fuck, and we don't get that many components to make them race cars. If I could I'd sure as hell drive my volvo as a daily and the civic on the track.
[QUOTE=clutch2;51231593]Ah yes the joys of no tools, lol. One of the things I'm looking forward to someday when I have a garage that can fit more than a car and a toolbox is getting a bearing press. The automotive world really opens up with one.
Edit: Hahaha Fuck me. I didn't realize most poly-style bushings like I planned on use the factory outer sleeve... like the sleeve that I worked so hard to remove. Well shit, OEM rubber stuff for me I guess.[/QUOTE]
All the poly bushings I've seen have been two-piece, so you put them in on both sides, no need for a press. At the same time I've never seen them use outer sleeves (neither have I seen OEM bushings with outer sleeves, though)
Thank goodness they emailed me back before it shipped. That set does indeed require the original outer sleeves to be left in. So, OEM or bust for me.
Take a look at this, a standard OEM bushing. There's an inner sleeve where the bolt goes through, that will rust itself onto the bolt within a year. Then rubber. Then there's an outer metal sleeve, which is what presses into the control arm.
[img]https://www.2carpros.com/images/articles/original/new-lower-control-arm-bushing.jpg[/img]
When you remove these, most folks burn out the bushing rubber with a torch, leaving just the outer sleeve. At this point for most poly bushing kits you LEAVE THAT SLEEVE!!! :O
Surprise, I didn't know that. Oops.
From there if you are replacing with OEM that outer sleeve will need to be removed. Most folks cut a it with a hacksaw and then chisel it out;
[img]https://sites.google.com/site/hondalioness/_/rsrc/1472848283937/tap2.jpg?width=240[/img]
I know we have some miata guys here, my shocks on my miata are 100% shot, I was wanting something for 95% street use, and something that'll drop my car a few inches too. Nothing slammed, but something that gives the car a lower look and more aggressive profile.
Preferably under $1200, I've heard from various people that it's tien flex or kill yourself, but I don't know if I should be going for coilovers or spring/shock setup. Suggestions?
[QUOTE=EagleEye;51234533]I know we have some miata guys here, my shocks on my miata are 100% shot, I was wanting something for 95% street use, and something that'll drop my car a few inches too. Nothing slammed, but something that gives the car a lower look and more aggressive profile.
Preferably under $1200, I've heard from various people that it's tien flex or kill yourself, but I don't know if I should be going for coilovers or spring/shock setup. Suggestions?[/QUOTE]
Tien isn't really the highest end name in coilovers, they're overall more of a stancefag brand from what I've seen and are like the cheap Japanese brand. I know they do make some good higher end stuff though.
If you want it for street use, I'd probably go with fresh B8 Bilstiens and some off the shelf ground controls. Then if you don't like how it rides you can always change your spring rates/spring heights. I obviously haven't driven on Tien Flexs on a Miata but I've driven on my Bilstiens on my Integra which seems to only be remotely popular to european Type-R owners since Tirerack is one of the few places that actually carries them in the US.
The shock to me is far more important and getting something that's high quality and designed to last is what I purchase. Most coilovers are designed with cheaper shocks since they can get by with cheaper components wrapped in fancy billet and machined casings. You're also stuck going to the manufacturer to get yours rebuilt or replaced if they even offer that for a reasonable price when the shock does start to wear out in 30-50k miles.
Speaking of shocks; found out that installing Forester springs on my SUS would give a 3/4-1" lift, exactly what i want.
I need a few struts replaced, so doing the spring upgrade would be perfect.
Then, I'd like some all terrains. Either BFG AT2 in 215/75/15, or General Grabbers in 205/75/15. Possibly 205/70/15, if either offer it then (factory size).
I use general grabbers on my truck and I love them
[QUOTE=EagleEye;51234533]I know we have some miata guys here, my shocks on my miata are 100% shot, I was wanting something for 95% street use, and something that'll drop my car a few inches too. Nothing slammed, but something that gives the car a lower look and more aggressive profile.
Preferably under $1200, I've heard from various people that it's tien flex or kill yourself, but I don't know if I should be going for coilovers or spring/shock setup. Suggestions?[/QUOTE]
$1200? [url=https://www.flyinmiata.com/na8-stage-2-5-suspension-kit.html]Here's the NA version[/url] (iirc you have an NA, if it's an NB check out their new V-MAXX NB kits) of the kit I threw on my first NB, and it handled beautifully and dropped the car a couple inches. I'm running coilovers on my current NB and kinda wish I hadn't, it's a lot harsher and I preferred the ride of lowering springs, shocks, and sway bars over adjustable ride height (which I set once and haven't touched since).
I once had an issue like that, I solved it by getting a power bleeder instead of normal hand bleeding.
[editline]20th October 2016[/editline]
Does the fluid come out of the bleeder screws differently from each side?
[editline]21st October 2016[/editline]
[editline]ghghp[/editline]
I once knew a person that swore up and down to john deer that his brakes liked grabbing more on the left side than anything. He then got a long talk about why the tractor has two brake bedals and how theirs a little peice of metal that links the two pedals together to make one.
I've seen that kinda shit before. Turned out to be a kinked hardline, but clogged would cause the same problem. Trace the front left caliper back to the cylinder and make sure there's no point of blockage.
So I'm moving [again], once again all the way across the country, this time from Seattle/Tacoma to New Hampshire, the 740 is getting sold, and I've been thinking about selling my 242 as well. Much like the PNW, the northeast seems to have a fairly active Volvo scene, so finding a new car wouldn't be hard, assuming I chose to get another one. I've found a couple nice turbocharged ones that'd definitely be a decent deal.
Hard decisions.
[QUOTE=Kabstrac;51236184]Guys I need help: I have a 1990 Nissan D21 (hard body pickup) and I recently redid most of the front end. Before I did the work, all the brakes worked evenly and properly. The truck sat for about a week as I picked away at the work, but the truck is all back together now. I also put a new master brake cylinder In as the old one was leaking. I had a mechanic bleed the lines for me. Thing is, my front left caliper isn't braking, at least not nearly as hard as the other wheels.
Example: If I get up to 30km/h and slam on the brakes or even just press them moderately hard (as if I was stopping abruptly at a red light), they all will drag except the front left and the truck pulls hard to the right. I've bled the line like 4 times so it's not that, and I just replaced the caliper for a new one. So both the old caliper and the current new one are doing the same thing. Pads and rotors are alright too.
[editline]20th October 2016[/editline]
If the truck is in the air, and someone applies the brake, the front left wheel isn't moveable by hand so it is grabbing, but it won't grab as hard as the other brakes.
[editline]20th October 2016[/editline]
Also since doing the front end, I haven't gotten an alignment yet but the truck is tracking straight and i measured and copied the old measurements so it can't be too far off. Could slight alignment issues cause this? Also this isn't my daily driver so I'm not driving it with shitty alignment
Also also also I haven't changed the brake hose, but it seems like it is okay shape[/QUOTE]
if you drain fluid out of the front end you may need to bypass the proportioning valve when you bleed the brakes or you'll sometimes have no pressure on one side. should be a tool for it for your valve
[editline]21st October 2016[/editline]
you can supposedly just mash the brake pedal super hard to fix it now but I've never had any luck with that
[QUOTE=butre;51235699]I use general grabbers on my truck and I love them[/QUOTE]
I've heard great things about them on and offroad. Great price, too.
preludes are pretty
Slammed some new lights into the garage.
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/D251FFE4-063B-450F-8A39-DCCE8C8A7BC2_zpsglk5foq8.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/D251FFE4-063B-450F-8A39-DCCE8C8A7BC2_zpsglk5foq8.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[img_thumb]https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14729096_1075443532576572_252029755614352987_n.jpg?oh=1801d71a574efd4fa66f84eaaf762fd7&oe=58A242DF[/img_thumb]\
Got my first mod!
[QUOTE=Zarjk;51237581][img_thumb]https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14729096_1075443532576572_252029755614352987_n.jpg?oh=1801d71a574efd4fa66f84eaaf762fd7&oe=58A242DF[/img_thumb]\
Got my first mod![/QUOTE]
ewwwwwww so dirty.
[editline]21st October 2016[/editline]
Also why every single one I see has the infinity logo missing.
Every. single. one.
[editline]21st October 2016[/editline]
Oh god I just realized the white marks are not even in the same direction
send help OCD overload.
It's been years since I've posted here, but does anyone know how to get dirt out of a leather steering wheel? I picked a good wheel from the junkyard, but the windows were open and dirt got into the leather.
[QUOTE=kart22racer;51237837]It's been years since I've posted here, but does anyone know how to get dirt out of a leather steering wheel? I picked a good wheel from the junkyard, but the windows were open and dirt got into the leather.[/QUOTE]
Come on, we want to see a photo of your car not asking us questions.
I used armor all whipes on my audi's wheel, followed with a microfiber with alittle bit of dawn n water to get off the oiley shit
[QUOTE=Zarjk;51237581][img_thumb]https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14729096_1075443532576572_252029755614352987_n.jpg?oh=1801d71a574efd4fa66f84eaaf762fd7&oe=58A242DF[/img_thumb]\
Got my first mod![/QUOTE]
Heh, my buddy has the same car. Pretty similar intakes too.
[editline]20th October 2016[/editline]
Mothers makes nice leather cleaner, not sure if it's a good idea to use on a steering wheel though
Sorry, you need to Log In to post a reply to this thread.
