Automotive Addicts Lounge V5 - P0306 - General

[QUOTE=Del91;51237850] Mothers makes nice leather cleaner, not sure if it's a good idea to use on a steering wheel though[/QUOTE] Yeh, they all leave a very slippery aftermath. Thats why ya gotta get a degreaser on there.

[QUOTE=DPKiller;51237844]Come on, we want to see a photo of your car not asking us questions. I used armor all whipes on my audi's wheel, followed with a microfiber with alittle bit of dawn n water to get off the oiley shit[/QUOTE] Alright, sounds good. I upgraded some since the last time I've been around here lol. [url=https://flic.kr/p/LmQwoJ][img]https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8787/29115495326_3c319a7398_b.jpg[/img][/url] I'm wondering if just dawn and water followed by leather conditioner would be best, since it's genuinely just dirt that blew in and got stuck when rain got in the window.

[t]http://i.imgur.com/Gg4T1cQ.jpg[/t] Hide yo nopeds, hide yo trucks theirs a stance fag.

[QUOTE=Adeptus;51232590]Damn that's a nice photo. Which wheels are those? they fit very nicely. I am a proud owner of an EX mate, civic's are the best.[/QUOTE] Rota Grid 16x7,5

Hey guys, my Subaru seems to be doing something odd now. Only on cold starts (like in the morning) one of the cylinders is misfiring, but once it starts to heat up it runs perfectly fine just like it did a week ago. It's a 2002 Impreza Hatch with an EJ25. Any thoughts? Head gasket leaking into the cylinder? [editline]21st October 2016[/editline] Also we start work on putting the "new" motor into the MR2! It's another NA 4AGE that I got with a transmission from Prime for like $100. It was swapped out of a customer's car when they went to do a 3SGTE swap for his AW11. So far, the "new" motor has a new head gasket, water pump, oil pump, cam cover gaskets, plus everything else that came with the Toyota Master Gasket Rebuild Kit Bonanza. The transmission has a new clutch too. Should be fun! Hoping to finally get my MR2 to a decent state, then I get to redo some of the electrics for the lights, repaint it, and fix some rust on the rear quarter and get a new exhaust. Now that I have a house with a garage, I'm so hyped.

O2 sensor going bad?

[QUOTE=Lerlth;51239400]O2 sensor going bad?[/QUOTE] Hmm, that's interesting. A few days ago we used a plug defouler to get around a bad cat code (PO420) so I could get it inspected. I wonder if we just overlooked something and this is the result of that.

If it were a headgasket, you'd know. Temp would rise, coolant would be murky or even black, etc. I would start by checking the connections on the plug wires, coil pack, etc. for corrosion. Lightly sand any that is there. If the coil pack is original, it may be due for replacement. Very easy to check with a multimeter. Instructions are available online and in service manuals (years and models differ, not sure which style yours has or i would tell you how). If that all checks out, it may be worth checking out the plugs. It doesn't sound like a plug issue if it's only when cold, but it wouldn't hurt to do them anyways. If that still checks out, you'd be looking at injector or compresssion issues. That is, assumming it really is a misfire on a single cylinder, and not the timing being pulled and causing it to run rough.

[t]https://puu.sh/rQLRX.jpg[/t] :( Well it is starting to get pretty fucking cold

I wanna see that Opel

Well I fucked up, after driving this truck for 160k~ miles the past few years I just had the first accident. For some stupid reason I didn't see the big tree-branch above me (which was only like 4cm in diameter) while backing up into a tiny road downhill. When I figured it wasn't gonna fit I drove out again and my wheels spun, I thought it was the dirt but in the end it was a tree-branch grabbing ahold of the back of the truck. So I fucked that all up. [img]http://i.imgur.com/pfoMf6s.png[/img] I spend all day making it straight again, all the wood was rotten so I'm gonna replace the entire backside, it was due anyway. It might look decent on the photo's but it was completely gone, you could push a screwdriver through the wood without any resistance. [img]http://i.imgur.com/0mpyRvs.png[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/mlG5xr1.png[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/w8QYI0l.png[/img] Next up is trying to fix that rust while I'm at it, no idea how. I guess I'll try to grind off most and then spray some good stuff on there. Then I'll start rebuilding it! [editline]21st October 2016[/editline] p.s. sorry for the wall of pics

[QUOTE=evilweazel;51233478]You have deserts like that in Canada? Al Gore, we should have listened.[/QUOTE] Nah 'ombre you've got it all wrong. Snow banks [thumb]http://racecarthings.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Screen-Shot-2015-01-02-at-10.29.09-PM.jpg[/thumb] Huge as fuck snow banks

[QUOTE=Strontboer;51239900]Tree branch fuckery[/QUOTE] My Dad lost a rear window on his work van from a tree branch. Backed up without noticing it just demolished the glass. He just boarded it up, painted it white, and uses it as a repaint able billboard.

[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;51240063]Nah 'ombre you've got it all wrong. Snow banks [thumb]http://racecarthings.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Screen-Shot-2015-01-02-at-10.29.09-PM.jpg[/thumb] Huge as fuck snow banks[/QUOTE] [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4w-HOiQo5OA[/media]

[QUOTE=FordLord;51239507]If it were a headgasket, you'd know. Temp would rise, coolant would be murky or even black, etc. I would start by checking the connections on the plug wires, coil pack, etc. for corrosion. Lightly sand any that is there. If the coil pack is original, it may be due for replacement. Very easy to check with a multimeter. Instructions are available online and in service manuals (years and models differ, not sure which style yours has or i would tell you how). If that all checks out, it may be worth checking out the plugs. It doesn't sound like a plug issue if it's only when cold, but it wouldn't hurt to do them anyways. If that still checks out, you'd be looking at injector or compresssion issues. That is, assumming it really is a misfire on a single cylinder, and not the timing being pulled and causing it to run rough.[/QUOTE] Thanks! I'll check the connections tonight or tomorrow. I'll have to find the manual. (It's a 2.5TS, EJ25D I think) I took it to a friend and he said that it was shooting a code for just one of the cylinders (I think I remember he said it was Cyl 1?) and he said it was just in the morning when he tested it too, same symptoms I'm now experiencing. I started it earlier today after it has been sitting for 5~ hours and it fired up and ran normally, even though the temp gauge said it was cold. (maybe it wasn't totally cold?) I remember with my Mitsubishi it has a misfire issue and it turned out to be moisture in the distributor, I wonder if this is any similar.

my tires got recalled :(

[QUOTE=Grenadiac;51239870]I wanna see that Opel[/QUOTE] Heh, I figured [t]https://puu.sh/rQQDO.jpg[/t]

[QUOTE=Strontboer;51240137][media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4w-HOiQo5OA[/media][/QUOTE] I've seen this video like 6 times and I laugh everytime

I still think my favorite truck ramping video was the one where the big while longbox pickup hit a jump, and faceplowed into the approach of the next jump right after it. Everything in front of the cab accordion'ed and the force of impact ripped the box right off. Cant find it now as im on my tablet.

[QUOTE=Ldesu;51240498]Heh, I figured [t]https://puu.sh/rQQDO.jpg[/t][/QUOTE] [I][B]45 HP[/B][/I] I love it

[QUOTE=EagleEye;51234533]I know we have some miata guys here, my shocks on my miata are 100% shot, I was wanting something for 95% street use, and something that'll drop my car a few inches too. Nothing slammed, but something that gives the car a lower look and more aggressive profile. Preferably under $1200, I've heard from various people that it's tien flex or kill yourself, but I don't know if I should be going for coilovers or spring/shock setup. Suggestions?[/QUOTE] I went a fairly cheap route and went with Flyin Miata lowering Springs (~$350-$400 shipped), Bilstein HD shocks for NA (about $430), and 5X Racing 36MM Front/46MM Rear bumpstops ($100). Not adjustability, but reasonable drop and noticeably stiffer, crisper ride. Bilstein HDs for NA seem to be kinda harsh though. I don't really bitch about it, I don't mind a rough ride. But, compared to my dad's NB, which also has lowering springs, but with a Koni setup, I can actually go over significant bumps fine. In my NA, only small bumps/potholes/etc are bearable, everything else I must drive around. FM springs aren't even terribly stiff, so it could really just be the Bilsteins. They handle quite well in autocross though, and that's my priority. I've read the NB shocks in general are more comfortable, so if you do infact have an NA, it is possible, but more costly and time consuming, to convert over to NB shocks and tophats/shock mounts. Definitely stay away from TEIN like Slayer3032 said. That ground control setup he suggested sounded sufficient. I've read lots of people find they can still enjoy their racecar 700lbs/450lbs spring rates with good shocks, but really, the ideal spring rates for street are probably closer like 4-500lbs/250-350lbs. But again, all up to your priorities and much comfort, if any, you are willing to sacrifice. It's funny too, the OEM shocks will cost more than almost any replacement shocks, despite being terribly soft and low in performance, relatively speaking. But yeah, final thought, just make sure to research and get shocks that work match well with your springs.

The reason that everyone bitched about the Bilstiens for any sort of Honda application was that they had stiffer low speed dampening or something which most people felt made the ride harsh. I'm running OEM JDM Integra Type-R springs and ITR application B8's and I can sort of feel it but I really don't think I'd have it any other way. It's far more cush than my EF with Eibach Prokits and KYB GR2's which are now 100% blown as shit because EF application shocks are fucking trash made for 75lbs/in springs. My girlfriend has also noted that you can fly up driveways, jump railroad tracks and drive down whatever you really feel like at any speed in my Integra. Unlike her Civic which she has to crawl over stuff at a very respectable ride height. It's just simply stiff and responsive to me. If you want some interesting reading, Honda-tech does actually have a good wealth of info if you dig far enough and know to specifically look for things track, competition or related to the nicest chassis/cars of your platform like the CRX instead of the EF Civic or ITR instead of the Integra. [url]http://honda-tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-54/interesting-article-involving-quality-shock-brands-info-setups-etc-1853171/[/url] [url]http://web.archive.org/web/20070207012645/http://www.wincom.net/trog/autocross_secrets6.html[/url] (extremely good article mentioned in the former link) [url]http://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-type-r-8/bilstein-sports-vs-koni-sports-1867693/[/url] [url]http://honda-tech.com/forums/road-racing-autocross-time-attack-19/why-there-no-bilstein-love-ht-2769129/[/url] Off the shelf Koni Yellows also have a tendency to dyno different from each other and the adjustment can throw them even more out of wack from one another. That was one of the biggest things that set me away from the Konis with both being the same price as well. The adjustment sounded nice but I'd probably be more likely to mess with it more than it's worth having.

The big Benz and I cheated death on I684 last night... [t]https://i.gyazo.com/43b4483f1ca117ef06a27955f20e5196.png[/t] [t]https://i.gyazo.com/768f1cff4b5287ea778c0d8de666e5d6.jpg[/t] I can't look at the poor car :cry: In other, better news, my 190E is getting closer to running and driving again: [t]https://i.gyazo.com/e0f28f9179f06f30d8285ffa0f0ed709.jpg[/t] [t]https://i.gyazo.com/d2b0284222733233a083a4db41101b3f.jpg[/t] [t]https://i.gyazo.com/77838b1dc4a3e8e4ed0152f78575f6fb.jpg[/t]

[QUOTE=deathmog;51240215]Thanks! I'll check the connections tonight or tomorrow. I'll have to find the manual. (It's a 2.5TS, EJ25D I think) I took it to a friend and he said that it was shooting a code for just one of the cylinders (I think I remember he said it was Cyl 1?) and he said it was just in the morning when he tested it too, same symptoms I'm now experiencing. I started it earlier today after it has been sitting for 5~ hours and it fired up and ran normally, even though the temp gauge said it was cold. (maybe it wasn't totally cold?) I remember with my Mitsubishi it has a misfire issue and it turned out to be moisture in the distributor, I wonder if this is any similar.[/QUOTE] The 25D was discontinued in '99, you have a 251 or 253. Your coil pack has the cylinders numbered, #1 is passenger front i believe. That is the easiest to access as far as plugs and wires go.

[QUOTE=evilweazel;51233478]You have deserts like that in Canada? Al Gore, we should have listened.[/QUOTE] Joking aside we do in Kamloops and up in the Cariboo [img]http://i.imgur.com/nNEYMUl.jpg[/img] not like death valley or anything

Eh, it can get up to 40+ degrees in places like Osoyoos, so i wouldn't say it's half assed I love hearing people's reaction when i tell them canada has a desert though

[QUOTE=Slithers;51242359] In other, better news, my 190E is getting closer to running and driving again: [t]https://i.gyazo.com/e0f28f9179f06f30d8285ffa0f0ed709.jpg[/t] [/QUOTE]Jesus Christ, one belt to run them all. Why Mercedes?

[QUOTE=DPKiller;51217245]Don't you just LOVE plastic coolant nipples? [editline]17th October 2016[/editline] [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1031910/ShareX/2014-01/2014-01-13_20-55-51.png[/t][/QUOTE] Fuck the goddamn plastic coolant parts, especially the one mounted on the head, on the rear of the engine, under the wiring loom so you have to unplug everything to replace it.

[QUOTE=RoboChimp;51243773]Jesus Christ, one belt to run them all. Why Mercedes?[/QUOTE] Trust me its a lot fucking better than having each one of those having their own drive belt like my 420SEL. Most modern cars use 1 belt to do it all, and it makes life a lot easier. Instead of 5 belt tensioners, there is 1. Plus it shaves about half a foot off of the front end of the car compared to if each one had it's own belt

[QUOTE=RoboChimp;51243773]Jesus Christ, one belt to run them all. Why Mercedes?[/QUOTE] I'd rather follow a simple diagram for one belt that does everything than install three different belts.