You guys know where the OBD1 or diagnostic interface is a 95 Odyssey, it'd be similar to the '92 Civic.
[QUOTE=Gulen;51399858]Understandable that you didn't have winters on when it you had high summer temps the day before, but you're still driving what? 50mph? On snow with your summer tyres. You should always drive according to the conditions.
Please don't tell me you're saying you don't need to worry about winter tyres because you're getting a 4x4...[/QUOTE]
I was going about 30-35mph in that video clip.
And no, the truck will be getting good tires, as well.
[QUOTE=NO ONE;51398501]I don't know man winter tires on my Kia Optima made a night and day difference in my grip. Could actually get up hills and shit. Wouldn't fishtail as bad on the highways either.
Really surprised to hear you found all seasons that did well in the snow. Everything always seems to point towards dedicated snow tires doing better.[/QUOTE]
Like FordLord said, a lot of snow tires have studs, which we can't use here in VA. So there really is minimal difference between All seasons and snow tires, beyond rubber density which can help, but really just underinflating all seasons does the job. I forget which brand I had on my Charger before I got my new tires, but they did fantastic in the snow, I just had to be sure to deflate them about two pounds for slushy stuff else it would spin the fronts too much and it would tighten up when turning. Or I could goose it a touch and just jerk the back out, which I honestly found a bit easier to manage.
I'm really not looking forward to these Yokohamas in the snow, though. They are garbage in the rain, so I have a feeling I might be keeping a bag or two of salt in my car this winter.
[QUOTE=DuCT;51400168]This shitbox has been on Craigslist for forever.
[url]https://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/5881547594.html[/url]
I think I might call him up later today and offer him ~200 dollars. Would make for a good winter project. I don't even think the car runs.[/QUOTE]
[IMG]https://i.gyazo.com/464a16a285c850602c248c28de104fa7.png[/IMG]
201201201201201201201201
[QUOTE=Slithers;51401365][IMG]https://i.gyazo.com/464a16a285c850602c248c28de104fa7.png[/IMG]
201201201201201201201201[/QUOTE]
Not up on CL
I have a question that's been bugging me and maybe some of you can help me out.
I stripped my chassis down all the way, the chassis is obviously made up from different parts of metal which where spotwelded to eachother. All the seams have this sealant over them, this sealant is pretty hard (but rubbery) and makes it impossible to have a nice looking (interior) paintjob.
Is this seam sealant just for the purpose of stopping rust forming in between the panels? Or is this actually something that helps the structure of the car?
I'm asking this because I want to remove everything, for saving weight (about 10kg) and having a good looking paintjob on the outside, inside and underside.
Sealant itself
[img]http://i.imgur.com/OXmPwXd.png[/img]
Example of someone who removed it
[img]http://i.imgur.com/FJ7WLIi.jpg[/img]
[img]https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xaf1/t51.2885-15/s640x640/sh0.08/e35/12298981_1121959734488343_1580480728_n.jpg[/img]
Obviously these aren't just in the engine bay but also everywhere else in the car.
Sorry for the long post, I just don't wanna fuck this up
[QUOTE=Strontboer;51401690]I have a question that's been bugging me and maybe some of you can help me out.
I stripped my chassis down all the way, the chassis is obviously made up from different parts of metal which where spotwelded to eachother. All the seams have this sealant over them, this sealant is pretty hard (but rubbery) and makes it impossible to have a nice looking (interior) paintjob.
Is this seam sealant just for the purpose of stopping rust forming in between the panels? Or is this actually something that helps the structure of the car?
I'm asking this because I want to remove everything, for saving weight (about 10kg) and having a good looking paintjob on the outside, inside and underside.
Sealant itself
[URL]http://i.imgur.com/OXmPwXd.png[/URL]
Example of someone who removed it
[URL]http://i.imgur.com/FJ7WLIi.jpg[/URL]
[URL]https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xaf1/t51.2885-15/s640x640/sh0.08/e35/12298981_1121959734488343_1580480728_n.jpg[/URL]
Obviously these aren't just in the engine bay but also everywhere else in the car.
Sorry for the long post, I just don't wanna fuck this up[/QUOTE]
AFAIK it's only for stopping rust from starting in the seams, but some shops now repair cars which needs new panel(s) with just some spotwelds in tactical places, and seam glue for the rest.
Obviously only for something non-critical collision-wise like rear fenders.
Strip it away. It's purely to keep water out of the seams
Woohoo, guess I'll strip everything then!
This way, when it goes off to the cage builder. I'll ask him to stitch-weld the most important places. When the seams are clean, welding should be quick and easy for him. So a couple of hours AT MOST. That's worth it in my opinion.
Thanks everyone!
[QUOTE=A_Pigeon;51400360]If your por is exposed to sun you did it wrong[/QUOTE]
I was under the impression he painted the lower body line of the truck with it like people sometimes bedliner, ect?
[QUOTE=slayer3032;51401981]I was under the impression he painted the lower body line of the truck with it like people sometimes bedliner, ect?[/QUOTE]
POR is really tough shit, you should never really have it anywhere except for underbodies and suspension components. It doesn't give a good surface to paint over top off nor does it provide good adhesion for most topcoats. It's urethane based so sunlight etc. can break it down and negate it's positive effects. Realistically you should only be using POR in areas you REALLY need it because of how tough it is to remove if something goes wrong, engine bays etc. and in areas where it is near heated things like exhaust manifolds you should ensure you have some sort of insulation(don't worry about rust underneath said insulation, POR is invincible if you do it right).
[QUOTE=Strontboer;51401690]
[img]https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xaf1/t51.2885-15/s640x640/sh0.08/e35/12298981_1121959734488343_1580480728_n.jpg[/img]
Obviously these aren't just in the engine bay but also everywhere else in the car.
Sorry for the long post, I just don't wanna fuck this up[/QUOTE]
I'd sleep'n feel that smooth surface, oh baby
anyone not get into cars until you get one/see one that really just captivates you?
let me introduce my first car, a '58 vauxhall victor. my dad bought this and a pretty fucked parts car for a grand to resell and I fell in love with it at first sight. the biggest problem with it is that it's a 1.5l 4 cylinder :v:
we're repowering it with a toyota 3t, but there's definitely a few fitting problems getting it installed.
[t]https://puu.sh/soZ0F.JPG[/t]
[t]https://puu.sh/soZ0H.JPG[/t]
[t]https://puu.sh/soZ0O.JPG[/t]
biggest issues we face so far is the oil filter hitting the steering collumn (there's remote filter setups for 3t's so that's fixable) and the front sump hits the crossmember.
My winter beater:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/MkpjtT6h.jpg[/img]
It's got some issues
-driver seat bracket broken
-driver seatbelt doesn't always retract (I think it's just dust in the assembly, based on the rest of the interior)
-the parking brake is toast (that's my fault, on the drive home)
-the steering wheel has a bit of slack
But the 4x4 works and the engine runs like a champ. I just need to change the oil and add some washer fluid. Then some better tires and it'll be ready to rock!
I want to buy a rolling couch...
[url]http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/5885466223.html[/url]
[QUOTE=Lerlth;51403067]I want to buy a rolling couch...
[url]http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/5885466223.html[/url][/QUOTE]
its a rolling couch, sure, but it's one of those couches you find on the side of the road covered in questionable fluids next to a "no dumping" sign
[QUOTE=Strontboer;51401690]I have a question that's been bugging me and maybe some of you can help me out.
I stripped my chassis down all the way, the chassis is obviously made up from different parts of metal which where spotwelded to eachother. All the seams have this sealant over them, this sealant is pretty hard (but rubbery) and makes it impossible to have a nice looking (interior) paintjob.
Is this seam sealant just for the purpose of stopping rust forming in between the panels? Or is this actually something that helps the structure of the car?
I'm asking this because I want to remove everything, for saving weight (about 10kg) and having a good looking paintjob on the outside, inside and underside.
Sealant itself
[img]http://i.imgur.com/OXmPwXd.png[/img]
Example of someone who removed it
[img]http://i.imgur.com/FJ7WLIi.jpg[/img]
[img]https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xaf1/t51.2885-15/s640x640/sh0.08/e35/12298981_1121959734488343_1580480728_n.jpg[/img]
Obviously these aren't just in the engine bay but also everywhere else in the car.
Sorry for the long post, I just don't wanna fuck this up[/QUOTE]
plz do seam sealer. the rust without it will be atrocious
[QUOTE=MrBunneh;51402432]anyone not get into cars until you get one/see one that really just captivates you?
let me introduce my first car, a '58 vauxhall victor. my dad bought this and a pretty fucked parts car for a grand to resell and I fell in love with it at first sight. the biggest problem with it is that it's a 1.5l 4 cylinder :v:
we're repowering it with a toyota 3t, but there's definitely a few fitting problems getting it installed.
biggest issues we face so far is the oil filter hitting the steering collumn (there's remote filter setups for 3t's so that's fixable) and the front sump hits the crossmember.[/QUOTE]
That's adorable. Looks like a baby Bel Air. Keep us updated!
[QUOTE=MrBunneh;51402432]anyone not get into cars until you get one/see one that really just captivates you?
let me introduce my first car, a '58 vauxhall victor. my dad bought this and a pretty fucked parts car for a grand to resell and I fell in love with it at first sight. the biggest problem with it is that it's a 1.5l 4 cylinder :v:
we're repowering it with a toyota 3t, but there's definitely a few fitting problems getting it installed.
[t]https://puu.sh/soZ0F.JPG[/t]
[t]https://puu.sh/soZ0H.JPG[/t]
[t]https://puu.sh/soZ0O.JPG[/t]
biggest issues we face so far is the oil filter hitting the steering collumn (there's remote filter setups for 3t's so that's fixable) and the front sump hits the crossmember.[/QUOTE]
just stick a chevy 350 in it like a sensible person
No put a Rotary in it.
[editline]20th November 2016[/editline]
If I was even slightly mechanically inclined if put a 13b in that civic I posted.
[QUOTE=RoboChimp;51400399]You guys know where the OBD1 or diagnostic interface is a 95 Odyssey, it'd be similar to the '92 Civic.[/QUOTE]
On the 95 odyssey you'll find the 2 pin diagnostic connector under the glove box as a blue connector.
It's the only way to get codes on your van other then having a reader that does obd1 vehicles.
If your van has airbags, there should be another blue connector near the 2 pin one.
It looks like it should have 3 wires but will likely only have 2, that plug is only for diagnosing
airbag faults and to reset the light useing an
Annoying sequence of connecting/disconnecting a jumper, like a wire or paperclip.
In to storage she goes!
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/F4cgjHZ.jpg?1[/thumb]
Happy to report, with the guidance of my younger brother, that I managed to squeeze my Miata in to our basement. Literally only about 1inch clearance on either side, took close to 1-1.5hrs. But will free up space in the garage for at least one car that has been parked in the driveway since 2 Miatas took up those spots (mine, and my dad's NB).
Last year it just stayed in the garage, but I figured this year it's best to free up that space and keep it somewhere with less foot traffic and opened doors.
Funny how it got up to about 55-60F yesterday, and now enough snow has fallen tonight that it is accumulating. Got my last few redlines in, filled up the tank, put some STABIL in it, and now just gotta disconnect the battery.
Again, I'm quite happy it fit through the door, and that I didn't scrape anything or crash in to the support beams.
Make sure you have fire, water, and whatever else insurance on it
Anyone here have a Dodge Challenger or Charger? I'm looking at getting one by next summer I think. Probably going to go for a new model, and I can't decide since both have nice bodies, and seem solid as far as performance.
If people continue to talk about chargers and challengers I legitimately might get sick.
The interior of the newer ones are like dodge thought plastic was a luxury.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;51404017]If people continue to talk about chargers and challengers I legitimately might get sick.
The interior of the newer ones are like dodge thought plastic was a luxury.[/QUOTE]
What other problems do you have with them, besides the interior?
A challenger is more or less a boat with a really good motor. They need to cut about 500-700 lbs off of them for them to be the true muscle cars they're supposed to be.
I think the charger is a better car. You get the same engines, and awd while also having 4 doors. [Sp]for more whores [/sp]
Of the two, I would personally go with a charger.
[QUOTE=Dr. Deeps;51404065]A challenger is more or less a boat with a really good motor. They need to cut about 500-700 lbs off of them for them to be the true muscle cars they're supposed to be.[/QUOTE]
Do you have any alternatives? I'm not dead-set right now, and still looking.
[editline]21st November 2016[/editline]
[QUOTE=Del91;51404186]I think the charger is a better car. You get the same engines, and awd while also having 4 doors. [Sp]for more whores [/sp]
Of the two, I would personally go with a charger.[/QUOTE]
That's what I was thinking if I choose between those two. Saw one out in public the other day and it looked pretty nice.
If you get one, get a Scat Pack or whatever the equivalent package is that gets you that 6.4 motor. It's an awesome motor.
If you're looking purely at 2 door muscle cars however, the new Camaro SS or the 5.0 will beat a Dodge out in turns and sometimes on the 1/4 mile time as well. A Challenger or Charger are perfectly good cars, you just have to know what you own and know it isn't the BEST out there for the price point.
Hell, for about $40k right now you can get an old C6 vette...
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