What regular small car has the best (strong and a low-ish second gear) manual transmission and won't implode if it hits a rut?
I have to make the transition to manual again when my Fit finally shits itself from weekly rallycrosses but I'm not sure if I should get an EK civic, Neon R/T or something else. Cavaliers seem nice too.
[QUOTE=Dr. Deeps;51404229]If you get one, get a Scat Pack or whatever the equivalent package is that gets you that 6.4 motor. It's an awesome motor.
If you're looking purely at 2 door muscle cars however, the new Camaro SS or the 5.0 will beat a Dodge out in turns and sometimes on the 1/4 mile time as well. A Challenger or Charger are perfectly good cars, you just have to know what you own and know it isn't the BEST out there for the price point.
Hell, for about $40k right now you can get an old C6 vette...[/QUOTE]
I was debating a Camaro since my mother had the 2014 SS, and I loved it, but I was also exploring my options.
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/image_zpsnpfaqj5g.jpeg[/thumb]
Loving this two tone! Much better than bland old overdone black. Silver really shows off the bodylines.
Truck will be on hold for a little while I'm away for work, but outside of the taillights and bedsides we got all the wrapping done today.
[QUOTE=A_Pigeon;51403123]plz do seam sealer. the rust without it will be atrocious[/QUOTE]
Even for a racecar that's stored dry and warm? I only race in the rain about 3 days a year. And I'll be painting the entire car after removing the sealant.
Do you guys know much about the OBD port?
[QUOTE=butre;51403365]just stick a chevy 350 in it like a sensible person[/QUOTE]
as much as I want too (my dad has one spare) the engine bay is fucking tiny :c
I'm having clearance issues with the 1.8 litre 3t as it is. I'll have to take a photo next time I"m working on it, gotta put a dual carb manifold I just bought on it.
but yes I fell in love with it because it's a british 55 chev designed in detroit but they put it in the washing too long on the way over :c
[QUOTE=RoboChimp;51404752]Do you guys know much about the OBD port?[/QUOTE]
In what sense?
[QUOTE=RoboChimp;51404752]Do you guys know much about the OBD port?[/QUOTE]
It's only good on a peice of paper. Out in the real world pulling information regarding what's wrong with the vehicle impossible as the computers at the time just did not do anything hardly like they do now.
Also good luck finding a good reader that can do datastream on OBD1.
I say that to your wallet not your pride. As the only ones I could find that worked well on chevys was most of the high dollar snap one mags and other quad digit scanners.
[QUOTE=Van-man;51404866]In what sense?[/QUOTE]Well I'm trying to get Tachometer info from a 95 Honda that doesn't have one. I'm trying to see if I can use the OBD1 port and a cheap android tablet to use as a Tachometer. OBD1 seems to work on my father's '97 mazda 626, with an adapter for Mazda's weird OBD1 port, but it's useless for engine problems.
[QUOTE=RoboChimp;51405015]Well I'm trying to get Tachometer info from a 95 Honda that doesn't have one. I'm trying to see if I can use the OBD1 port and a cheap android tablet to use as a Tachometer. OBD1 seems to work on my father's '97 mazda 626, with an adapter for Mazda's weird OBD1 port, but it's useless for engine problems.[/QUOTE]
Most OBD1 stuff don't have live data to my knowledge. your dad's mazda is most likely an exception and would work with a scan tool as well.
My OBD1 car can't connect to the scantool from my work for example.
If you want a tach feed you'll probably have to buy a tacho off the net or from Supercheap auto (get a monster tach pls). They usually come with instructions.
[QUOTE=The Decoy;51405185]Most OBD1 stuff don't have live data to my knowledge. your dad's mazda is most likely an exception and would work with a scan tool as well.
My OBD1 car can't connect to the scantool from my work for example.
If you want a tach feed you'll probably have to buy a tacho off the net or from Supercheap auto (get a monster tach pls). They usually come with instructions.[/QUOTE]Nah, those gauges are a pain in the ass to install and end up looking like some horrible third party BS on a teenager's rice burner. If the OBD1 connection doesn't read it, I'll just use the tablet as a GPS and give up the Tachometer.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/sMeR3SO.jpg[/t]
After the total lack of snow last year, I finally got to really put my Subaru to the test.
It's fucking fantastic.
It was so weird watching everyone skid everywhere, flash their highbeams in caution at me, hazards on and all sorts of general panic, meanwhile I just cruised along normally like I do everyday, albeit maybe a few MPH slower.
I love it. Still gotta put my Rallyarmor flaps on and put my Hella 500 driving lights on the roof basket though. I'll probably do that this weekend.
I want to play in the snow, but we don't get any. That said, it did rain yesterday, and there's a wonderful patch of dirt I go to to play in whenever it does. Playing around in the dirt and mud is my single biggest argument against FWD. One couldn't hold the 60-second powerslide circle I did in a FWD car. Or do any power sliding at all. And that makes me sad. A whole generation is being raised without the ability to hoon in the dirt.
Remind me to never remove a transmission using only a jack, and 2 shitty axle-stands.
:suicide:
My grandpa's got a badass early 2k Dodge truck with the 360 V8 which is currently sitting out of commission. He was doing 60 and the engine just died and now it just turns over and over and over and won't run. He says it's not getting any voltage to the coil. Paging valon, any ideas? He says he's already checked all the fuses and a scan tool said he had a bad sensor in the transmission but that shouldn't shut down the whole truck like this.
How do you manage to kill a 350
[QUOTE=Grenadiac;51407056]My grandpa's got a badass early 2k Dodge truck with the 360 V8 which is currently sitting out of commission. He was doing 60 and the engine just died and now it just turns over and over and over and won't run. He says it's not getting any voltage to the coil. Paging valon, any ideas? He says he's already checked all the fuses and a scan tool said he had a bad sensor in the transmission but that shouldn't shut down the whole truck like this.[/QUOTE]
Follow the line from the coil. Make sure it has a good ground connection. Check the ignition relay, and the integrity of the coil itself.
Yeah, might check the coil.
[QUOTE=Grenadiac;51407056]My grandpa's got a badass early 2k Dodge truck with the 360 V8 which is currently sitting out of commission. He was doing 60 and the engine just died and now it just turns over and over and over and won't run. He says it's not getting any voltage to the coil. Paging valon, any ideas? He says he's already checked all the fuses and a scan tool said he had a bad sensor in the transmission but that shouldn't shut down the whole truck like this.[/QUOTE]
Ooooh weeee, I dont know gas trucks very well but my first thought is
1. Fuel
2. Spark
3. Air/Compression
Make sure its injecting fuel, or if the fuel pump comes on, then see if its firing. After that do a compression test if both come back bad.
These engines dont just die haha probably something small!
It gets fuel but it's not even trying to fire. Checked intakes. He's pretty sure it's some electrical gremlin but has no idea where to start diagnosing.
[QUOTE=Code3Response;51407183]How do you manage to kill a 350[/QUOTE]
It's acculy p easy.
The one in my truck is a teeter totter ATM
[QUOTE=RoboChimp;51405015]Well I'm trying to get Tachometer info from a 95 Honda that doesn't have one. I'm trying to see if I can use the OBD1 port and a cheap android tablet to use as a Tachometer. OBD1 seems to work on my father's '97 mazda 626, with an adapter for Mazda's weird OBD1 port, but it's useless for engine problems.[/QUOTE]
There is no OBD1 port on a Honda, only a service jumper which is useful for sticking a paper clip in. Supposedly there's some special scanner you can use with it but I've never seen one and it probably just pulls your codes and that's it anyways. You can just tap the wires behind the cluster but the CD Accord cluster bezel is a bitch and a half since I've installed an alarm behind and around the cluster area. Aftermarket tachs suck anyways, you'd have much better luck just cluster swapping and either swapping the speedo or the odometer reel.
Now there are other options out there though. If you wanted to spend like $600 USD you could go Hondata S300 v3 which has a bunch of really awesome Bluetooth stuff and supports ELM327 so it works like a OBD2 dongle of sorts too. No idea if there's any sort of a market for reselling used ECUs down there but flipping a Hondata chipped ECU is usually pretty easy and they don't really lose much value over here so if you spend $600 on it you can definitely flip it for $500-575. That's still like $600 for a tach input to your tablet though which is a little insane.
I had an offical obd1 plugin for my old chevy, but it litterally did the same function as a paperclip.
[QUOTE=Nookyava;51403975]Anyone here have a Dodge Challenger or Charger? I'm looking at getting one by next summer I think. Probably going to go for a new model, and I can't decide since both have nice bodies, and seem solid as far as performance.[/QUOTE]
Got an '08 SXT AWD. Whatcha wanna know?
Also, related. I had a fun experience of driving in limp mode to work because my TCM decided to glitch out in the cold I think. Got a u0101 and a P0675 code on the way in. Started my car this morning, and the first thing it did was flash the car alarm light at me and have a CEL with my ESP and BAS lights on. So much fun!
[url]https://albany.craigslist.org/cto/5859075988.html[/url]
[t]https://images.craigslist.org/00N0N_DyTayQFvGO_600x450.jpg[/t]
Worth looking into? I need a car and this happens to fit the bill while still being the style I like (80s/90s boxy sedans).Stopped by the listed spot because I was in the area and wanted to take a driveby glance. Wasn't there though :/ .
You will make it anywhere you want to go..... but not quickly.
I'd rather 300d or 300td to get the bigger motor and turbooooo.
Buy it and send me the wiring harness, you can scrap the rest
[QUOTE=TheMrFailz;51408968][url]https://albany.craigslist.org/cto/5859075988.html[/url]
[t]https://images.craigslist.org/00N0N_DyTayQFvGO_600x450.jpg[/t]
Worth looking into? I need a car and this happens to fit the bill while still being the style I like (80s/90s boxy sedans).Stopped by the listed spot because I was in the area and wanted to take a driveby glance. Wasn't there though :/ .[/QUOTE]
They're solid cars and that one has fairly low miles. Watch out for rusting spring perches and rust under the rear windshield. The rockers look alright which is a good sign but make sure you lift the carpets and give the floors a swift kick or a rap with your fist. Jack up the car with the factory jack at two jack points as well to make sure it isn't shot to shit.
Major issues with the 123 chassis include failed sunroof drains, rot under the battery tray, incorrect transmission working vacuum pressure, failed trans modulator, broken radiator hose fittings, and sticking brakes. All are easy fixes except the rust. Make damn sure it has never been run on vegetable oil, because that SHIT causes everything from melted pistons to failed injection pumps.
I'd take a look at it, they're nice sturdy cars. If you plan on buying, plan on doing a valve adjustment, trans fluid change (use Chevron MD3 or a Dex3 equivalent that isn't also Dex4 equivalent), an oil change, and run some diesel purge through the system.
Also Grenadiac, if you go to a 123 harness, you will need to get the parallel circuit glow plugs that were made from 76 on.
[QUOTE=Grenadiac;51407056]My grandpa's got a badass early 2k Dodge truck with the 360 V8 which is currently sitting out of commission. He was doing 60 and the engine just died and now it just turns over and over and over and won't run. He says it's not getting any voltage to the coil. Paging valon, any ideas? He says he's already checked all the fuses and a scan tool said he had a bad sensor in the transmission but that shouldn't shut down the whole truck like this.[/QUOTE]
As someone who had a 360 with that exact same problem you'll need to replace the ECM most likely and check the plug for the overdrive/TCL solenoid. All that matters for the ECM is the motor and auto/manual so if you go to the junk yard you can get basically any 5.9/auto ECM and slap it in there no problem.
Did both of those things, and truck ran mint. Make sure that you replace the plug/harness for that solenoid BEFORE you replace the ECM because otherwise you'll short out the ECM. Trust me, I went through 4 of them before my Ram ran good again.
[thumb]http://imgur.com/zekN9C5.jpg[/thumb]
Obligatory picture of my old girl that I only got to own for 5 short months, and only drove for 2-3 of those months. Transmission slipped out of overdrive right in front of a Ford dealer and I turned around and pulled in there and said "I need a car. Now." And that's how I left that afternoon with a 2014 Focus(which I traded in for a $20 profit 9 months later) :v:
Which I also no longer have.
I was going to start the dart this week, and everything is entirely hooked up... and the starter is DOA. Fantastic. The bendix spring in it is jammed and cant be unstuck. Fun stuff.
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