Sounds like a worn engine, probably combined with wrong oil viscosity as you mentioned.
I got my Neon and PT on the ExhaustDB site.
[url]https://exhaustdb.com/cars/[/url]
Brep brep.
We're starting the engine swap for the MR2 today
eeeEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
Sounds like NA Miata lifter noise
[QUOTE=Van-man;51444396]Sounds like a worn engine, probably combined with wrong oil viscosity as you mentioned.[/QUOTE]
It has hydraulic lifters
with 15w40 they make loud noise on cold start
once its in operating temp you dont hear anything
edit:
these mfkers
[video=youtube;HUaEF4aGsqY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUaEF4aGsqY[/video]
bigges POS ever build by humans
[QUOTE=cNova;51444979]It has hydraulic lifters
with 15w40 they make loud noise on cold start
once its in operating temp you dont hear anything
edit:
these mfkers
[video=youtube;HUaEF4aGsqY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUaEF4aGsqY[/video]
bigges POS ever build by humans[/QUOTE]
So the oil can drain out of the lifters again easily instead of almost all of it being retained in the "compensation chamber" in the lifters?
Wow... that's normally only seen on worn-as-fuck engines or when running a very different oil viscosity.
Just shows I'm mostly fluent with VW diesels, and a little bit with 1.8 (turbo) engines.
They are not supposed to drain. The hydraulic lifters are supposed to be sealed units which shoud never seize.
They also have a failsafe tho, once they seize they stop working until the engine heats up and makes them loose again and fils them up with "fresh" oil. I use thicker oil because i dont want them to drain on hot days. Because once the engine gets super hot these fuckers drain again and you get the noise
Heres a gif i made
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/YRh3FFd.gif[/IMG]
shows first one working the other not working
Also all the new VW Golfs/polos 1.4 engines still have these fuckers inside
Pay attention to tsis tfsis lol
all same bullshit
Edit:
This video shows a "fresh" 1.4 golf mk4 with new lifters. sound familiar ?
Go to 13:10
[video=youtube;Qj0ziFBgE2s]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qj0ziFBgE2s[/video]
I had some leftover 70w oil from my dads racecar so I put it in my truck (back when I was 16 and had a 1991 Dodge shortbox with a 318), one night it dropped to -15 or so and I started the truck up not thinking about the oil.
It sounded like metal on metal, and nothing but metal on metal. Shit was the fastest I ever turned a vehicle on and off ever haha
[QUOTE=RoboChimp;51443902]Out of curiosity, what are you replacing it with?[/QUOTE]
I'm looking at grabbing up one of the new TRD off-road Tacoma's! I still have the mustang for my fast car needs.
I don't get this.
So a year and a half ago I lost my keys and ended up seeing if a GM dealership could get new keys (for a 92 Tracker) cut from the VIN. He did (to his disbelief as well) and the keys I got work on the doors, glove box and turn in the ignition.
But the lock on the tailgate doesn't work. It's acting like its a valet key.
I was wondering if a disconnected air bag could possibly deploy? I made the mistake of replacing my stock wheel in my civic with an aftermarket one which is unfortunately not allowed where I live. I put the stock one back on yesterday however I've cut the cables connecting the old air bag (that goes into the center of the wheel) to the car. My concern is that if I put the old air bag back in that it could possibly deploy without power. I am planning to get it fixed in the next week but if I get pulled over with the air bag missing I'll get a defect notice.
The detonator will not go without power, but I'd tie off/tape off the wires you cut so they don't graze against each other and fire it.
False alarm. The lock had not been used in so long that it had siezed in place. It started working again once I flooded it with WD-40.
I have quite a story... It's the story of how today I became the proud owner of a 2010 BMW 135i coupe 6 speed for about 2 hours. :v:
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/BAF80DF8-BA70-4645-A6AD-A55DB46AC51F_zps1lspwru8.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/BAF80DF8-BA70-4645-A6AD-A55DB46AC51F_zps1lspwru8.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
A friend called me up today, told me a friend of his crashed their 135i and 'wanted it gone, $2k today takes it.'
So that peaked my interest. The car hit a curb, here's the pic he sent.
[URL=http://s465.photobucket.com/user/isaact1234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/B3A3D84E-B979-406C-91F2-412F5EE2ABB5_zpsvp26had3.jpg.html][IMG]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/isaact1234/Mobile%20Uploads/B3A3D84E-B979-406C-91F2-412F5EE2ABB5_zpsvp26had3.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
I went, got money (just incase) and then went to put my Buick into storage before looking at the BMW. I was talking to my buddy who owned the shop there and he said "Dude! If you don't want that car I do!"
I get there, we jack it up, and the front needs every suspension component on the P-side.. but the mounts look fine. The rear tire was cocked about 10* - 20* or so, but I couldn't tell what was bent.
I told him that since winter was coming I didn't totally want to take the project on (and I have the Celica to deal with!) But he needed money really bad and said he'd do $1800.. OK fine. I called my buddy, he said he still wanted it, so I bought the stupid car right then and there.
After anguishing for about an hour once I got home, shopping for parts, and thinking how badass of a daily driver it would be for about a total cost of $4k (on a $12k + car) I finally said "nope, I gotta save for a house and it would be irresponsible to keep this."
And then I dropped off the title and keys and my buddy's gonna go scoop it up tomorrow. What a day that was.
Dont do it!
Fix it and flip it for 12k! More money towards the house.
Its a bit if an intial hit for the purchase and the parts, but you have an opportunity to make a fair chunk of change on it!
It would also be done in my driveway in the middle of winter, which would be quite chilly. The Celica has to stay in the garage since it doesn't have a front end or windows right now.
And I'm not one to sell cars, I know gosh darn well if I fixed it I would keep it. Not even a question about it, the only thing that would get sold would be the Prizm. With 300hp and a 6spd there's no way I would be willing to let it go, even for such a good profit. It's better to nip it in the bud before it's fixed, LOL! Makes me a couple hundred bucks profit, but in the long run saves me about $4k :v:
Holy FUCK if you don't buy that for 1800 usd i'll come and beat your ass.
That engine alone is worth 4k.
KEEP IT AND PART IT OUT, you'll make what...8 or 10k?
[editline]30th November 2016[/editline]
I have a better idea, ship it to me.
Fuck me
a 135 for 2000$ is worth every penny
edit:
Lets say it like this
Cheapest 135i from 2013 with broken front costs like 19k €
[t]http://i.imgur.com/QluZmNF.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=pentium;51448416]False alarm. The lock had not been used in so long that it had siezed in place. It started working again once I flooded it with WD-40.[/QUOTE]
Remember to flush out the "traditional" WD-40 after you've gotten it moving and then flood it with [URL="http://www.wd40specialist.com/products/dry-lube/"]PTFE based lubricant (which the company behind WD-40 also makes).
[/URL]
"Traditional" WD-40 is great at getting stuck things moving again, but shitty at keeping them that way.
Treat it like you would a gun, submerge the bastard in [URL="http://ballistol.com"]Ballistol[/URL] and you'll be good to go.
ACF50 is also good
[QUOTE=Van-man;51449975]Remember to flush out the "traditional" WD-40 after you've gotten it moving and then flood it with [URL="http://www.wd40specialist.com/products/dry-lube/"]PTFE based lubricant (which the company behind WD-40 also makes).
[/URL]
"Traditional" WD-40 is great at getting stuck things moving again, but shitty at keeping them that way.[/QUOTE]
the issue with wd40 is that the solvent in it eventually evaporates and it thickens up along with whatever dust sticks to it, so you've basically got a slurry of grime in the lock.
my preferred method for unsticking locks is to a. not let them get stuck in the first place and b. if they do use a graphite based dry lube. if I have to clean dirt out I'll use a spray solvent like brakleen, and just keep blasting it until I'm sure all the shit has run out. I prefer to avoid any petroleum based lubricant for locks, but I guess I wouldn't shy away from a dry ptfe lube.
-holyshitwrongthread-
[QUOTE=clutch2;51449148]It would also be done in my driveway in the middle of winter, which would be quite chilly. The Celica has to stay in the garage since it doesn't have a front end or windows right now.
And I'm not one to sell cars, I know gosh darn well if I fixed it I would keep it. Not even a question about it, the only thing that would get sold would be the Prizm. With 300hp and a 6spd there's no way I would be willing to let it go, even for such a good profit. It's better to nip it in the bud before it's fixed, LOL! Makes me a couple hundred bucks profit, but in the long run saves me about $4k :v:[/QUOTE]
Buy a car cover and boot the celica outside, give yourself 1 week to knock the beamer out and then its parked to be sold.
Hell, even just buying it and sitting on it until winter is over is still a better idea than passing it up, its only 2k, be all end all when it does come around to the point where you need the money for a new house you can have that thing sold in under a week as it sits so its really not any lost money.
[QUOTE=Van-man;51449975]Remember to flush out the "traditional" WD-40 after you've gotten it moving and then flood it with [URL="http://www.wd40specialist.com/products/dry-lube/"]PTFE based lubricant (which the company behind WD-40 also makes).
[/URL]
"Traditional" WD-40 is great at getting stuck things moving again, but shitty at keeping them that way.[/QUOTE]
I use graphite spray in locks. Works like butter
My buddy had a 135, he did a couple little things and it was nasty. I think it put down 460whp on a mustang dyno for a total of like 2k invested, was mean on the track.
[QUOTE=butre;51450502]the issue with wd40 is that the solvent in it eventually evaporates and it thickens up along with whatever dust sticks to it, so you've basically got a slurry of grime in the lock.
my preferred method for unsticking locks is to a. not let them get stuck in the first place and b. if they do use a graphite based dry lube. if I have to clean dirt out I'll use a spray solvent like brakleen, and just keep blasting it until I'm sure all the shit has run out. I prefer to avoid any petroleum based lubricant for locks, but I guess I wouldn't shy away from a dry ptfe lube.[/QUOTE]
Dry PTFE lube doesn't become a sticky mess that attracts dirt and gunk like it's a magnet to it.
It's also sorta repelling water, so the lock is much less likely to freeze stuck.
Graphite sprays can in some cases wear the lock and/or key slowly over time, did it in a pinch with my old car one winter morning, and there were clear signs of wear marks on the key after a few months, meanwhile dry PTFE sprays doesn't.
But you'd need to reapply the PTFE spray once a year or so, so it's a question if it's something you baby, or something that just have to work.
I'd never use Graphite on a customers lock, unless it's a old beater they give 0 fucks about and I can't be arsed to grab a can of PTFE, same with my own cars.
[I]Buuut [/I]it's one of those cases where I'm a anal perfectionist.
Dudes from work picked up my Merc today.
I have no car :(
They're gonna fix it so I can use it again.
jesus monkey christ If your going to rewire something in a vehicle do it properly. I was explaining to my brother over facebook video how to do an injector spray test on a KA24DE when I noticed 3 out of 4 injectors had been bubba'd with electrical tape and speaker wire.......no wonder the damn thing had no power and a misfire
[QUOTE=PandaJuggernaut;51451250]jesus monkey christ If your going to rewire something in a vehicle do it properly. I was explaining to my brother over facebook video how to do an injector spray test on a KA24DE when I noticed 3 out of 4 injectors had been bubba'd with electrical tape and speaker wire.......no wonder the damn thing had no power and a misfire[/QUOTE]
Nobody needs none of that shielded wire shit either, that's always a great one.
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