[QUOTE=Bucketboy;51468611][t]http://i.imgur.com/DIRZsnU.jpg[/t]
Here is the GTI Mk5 i just bought and my friend's Fabia vRS.[/QUOTE]
Are you guys henchmen? This pic makes me think you guys would be pulling up to make a hit on a rival family. Or dump a body at the port.
[QUOTE=Minimole;51469080]Are you guys henchmen? This pic makes me think you guys would be pulling up to make a hit on a rival family. Or dump a body at the port.[/QUOTE]
In a Skoda and a Golf
[QUOTE=Slithers;51468352]I did a 104 mile round trip commute to work during the summer in my 1986 S-Class, and I had no issues aside from wallet lightness after visiting the gas pump 2-3 times a week. With that being said, I think just about any properly maintained car can go as far as you want, when you want. At the end of the day I don't necessarily see why you 'need' a car that you will have for "at max 18 months", but that's just my personal opinion. More power to you if you found having a car payment to be more viable than driving an older car.[/QUOTE]
I just don't want to have to worry about paying to fix anything. $18 per week gets me to and from work all week and then some. I have zero maintenance costs and all of my oil changes are included. Plus I like having newer technology in my car. I'm not a big fan of old vehicles except for a select few.
[t]https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/210695293484793856/254721221747408906/1203161628.jpg[/t]
I did it guys. My first car! 1993 Mazda Miata with 221k Miles. Paint is amazing for being older than me, only 1 ding and some chips. Soft top has rear glass, Top itself is nice and not torn or damaged, just a bit dirty. Rims need to go and tires need to be changed. Carpet is good. Overall for 2500$ I think I did well!
Update on my crash:
Toyota's still a wreck.
My back is still broken.
I've gotten crutches and can walk almost normally with them and some monster pain killers I got.
Also the police called yesterday and there will most likely not be any fine or anything. It was a pure accident even though I was being careful and they seemed to understand that.
I wasn't even the only one that day. Here's the paper from that day:
[t]https://puu.sh/sDhQX.jpg[/t]
Thats real damn decent for 2500, good find.
[QUOTE=Birdman101;51469813]Thats real damn decent for 2500, good find.[/QUOTE]
My grandfather knew a women that wanted to sell it for 3000$, since she knew my grandfather, she reduced the price for me and threw in extra stuff as well. Getting it detailed this week.
[QUOTE=Minimal;51469896]My grandfather knew a women that wanted to sell it for 3000$, since she knew my grandfather, she reduced the price for me and threw in extra stuff as well. Getting it detailed this week.[/QUOTE]
I got one of those "grandma" type Miatas with just under - not a typo - 20,000 miles on it. But its paint wasn't quite as nice, it had a bit of a salvage job done to it (spare bumper with faded paint and a fender with peeling clearcoat). But it had better headers and a Borla exhaust, along with what I believe is the early VLSD. Paid $6,200 for it. Still think it would've been worth more like $5,500, but hey whatever I still love it and am still friends with the guys that sell them.
Still trying to track down one more rub in the rear, really wishing I didn't have to run so much camber to clear whatever's rubbing this time lol.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/WlzJhwRh.jpg[/img]
What's everyone's thoughts on the M240i? And RWD or XDrive - which would be best on that car for backroading?
[QUOTE=Dr. Deeps;51472999]What's everyone's thoughts on the M240i? And RWD or XDrive - which would be best on that car for backroading?[/QUOTE]
I'd own one if I had the cash, and that isn't something I say about many cars. It's what the 4 series should be but can never be.
The looks people give you when riding a dirt bike in the snow are kind of priceless.
Also that moment when you're drifting your bike through the snow, the back wheel slides out as planned, and the front wheel catches some long grass. Thine butthole clencheth on this day.
[editline]4th December 2016[/editline]
Also I'm going stir crazy from not being able to drive the MR2 till spring. It was nearly a nightly ritual of mine to cruise around at 2am to futurefunk and vaporwave and chill out. Life isn't the same without it.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/VBlLQcI.jpg[/t]
Welp. New project, roommate's first car.
So my brother successfully rewired the bubba'd fuel injectors however either the O-ring on the injector for cylinder 1 degraded or isn't there cause according to him it started spraying gas backwards over the headers and caused a rather nice fire that had to be put out good things parts for KA24DE's are plentiful it seems like he's gonna need it for this 1000$ POS
I bought it from a dealership. They wanted $2,700 but I got it for $1,500. Only two owners, older folks that kept it in shape.
[B]1994 Toyota Tercel - Manual 4 Speed - 3EE Motor - 130K Miles[/B]
[I]-New full body paint job.
-New clutch.
-New tires.
-Not a single oil/fluid leak.
-A/C & Heater work, along with every other thing on the vehicle.[/I]
[t]https://s18.postimg.org/l0jahiinr/Tercel.jpg[/t]
I flushed the brake/clutch fluid, adjusted the rear drums, rotated the tires, did a compression test(222, 188, 225, 206), plugs & wires, adjusted the idle, and did a full inspection above/below/around the vehicle.
Right now all it needs is two new front struts, and two new outer CV Axel Boots. Besides that, the car is flawless!
What do you guys think!!! :v
looks pretty mint for what it is.
200+ compression is awfully high though, 225 is way outside of economy car territory and damn near into race car territory, and there's way too much variation for it to be normal
major carbon buildup maybe? or just unreliable compression tester?
[QUOTE=butre;51475990]looks pretty mint for what it is.
200+ compression is awfully high though, 225 is way outside of economy car territory and damn near into race car territory, and there's way too much variation for it to be normal
major carbon buildup maybe? or just unreliable compression tester?[/QUOTE]
I had let the car get up to operating temp before testing, I had read that is proper? However it raises the compression numbers as well.
I'm actually going outside right now to do a cold compression test, and a wet one to see what cylinder two does. Do you know a reliable way to get rid of carbon build up? Because I had come to the conclusion of that as well.
[editline]4th December 2016[/editline]
Not to mention the exhaust is actually botched together. Someone had the cat ripped out, then put a new one in without welding or clamping it on either side. Used what looks like styrofoam to fill the gap in the piping. Could this cause some carbon build up in the cylinders?
reliable? pull the head off and get scraping.
easy is another story. there's a ton of fuel additives that claim to destroy carbon buildup but none of them seem to work very well
[editline]4th December 2016[/editline]
nothing in the exhaust will cause carbon buildup
[QUOTE=butre;51476044]reliable? pull the head off and get scraping.
easy is another story. there's a ton of fuel additives that claim to destroy carbon buildup but none of them seem to work very well
[editline]4th December 2016[/editline]
nothing in the exhaust will cause carbon buildup[/QUOTE]
I just took a look at the timing belt as well, it looked like it was in good condition. Not stiff, no signs of wear. Is there any reason for me to change it? It is suggested change at 137k. The date of the last time it was replaced was 05/2013.
[editline]5th December 2016[/editline]
So I just did another compression test, the vehicle was cold. (225, 220, 225, 220) On the dot. I don't believe my compression tester is bad. The first time I did the test, the vehicle was operating temp. (222, 188, 225, 206)
Would anyone have a possible explanation for the different test results? Which is the proper way to do a compression test, cold vehicle or operating temp?
[t]http://i58.tinypic.com/35anhpt.jpg[/t]
I did take a peak into the cylinders through the spark plug holes. The carbon build up is consistent through out each cylinder. It coats the top of the pistons evenly. Here is a picture off google, it's about the same consistency/thickness as this image. However my pistons don't have as much clean space. Is that considered a lot?
If it was replaced 3 1/2 years ago I'm sure it's fine, unless it's been driven across the country several times.
[QUOTE]Straight from the 1991 Toyota Tercel shop manual:
Compression Check
Hint: if there is lack of power, excessive oil consumption or poor fuel economy after engine tune-up, measure the cylinder compression pressure.
1. Warm up engine.
2. Remove air intake connector.
3. Remove distributor connections.
4. Remove spark plugs.
5. Check cylinder compression pressure:
A. Insert a compression guage into the spark plug hole.
B. Fully open the throttle.
C. While cranking the engine, measure the compression pressure.
Hint: Always use a fully charged battery to obtainan engine speed of 250 rpm or more.
D. Repeat steps A through C for each cylinder.
Compression Pressure : 184 psi
Minimum Pressure: 142 psi
Maximum Difference Between each cylinder: no more than 14 psi
E. If compression of one or more cylinder is low, pour a small amount of engine oil into that cylinder through the spark plug hole and repeat steps A though C for each cylinder with low compression.
-if adding oil helps the compression, chances are that the piston rings and/or the cylinder bore are worn or damaged.
-if pressure remains low, a valve may be sticking or seated improperly, or there may be leakage past the gasket. (editors note: this could also indicate damage of the cylinder head or block.)-evil_laughter-
6. Reinstall spark plugs.
Spark plug torque: 13 ft-lb
7. Reconnect distributor connectors.
8. Reinstall air intake connector.
The above procedure applies to all 91-94 tercels equipped with a sohc 12 valve 3ee efi.
The basic procedure applies to all four-stroke gasoline powered combustion engines that use pistons(Im not sure about rotaries...or two strokers...?)
Never compression test a diesel engine. It may explode or cause extreme engine damage.
As I said above, in a previous post, you want to disable the fuel delivery system. Although this is not mentioned in Toyota's instructions, I personally think this is a critical measure to take, because any fuel that gets into the engine during a cranking test creates a serious fire hazard. It doesnt take much of a spark to ignite gasoline fumes, and the use of a remote starter (should you choose to use one), only increases the likelyhood of some arcing occurring.
You also dont want all that gas dripping down into the bottom end of your motor, because it will thin out your oil and break down its consistency. So I recommend just pulling either the efi fuse and/or relays from an efi equipped car. Remember to check your manufacturers specs/recommended procedures before conducting a major test such as this.
Compression specifications may be different for your year Tercel. The above specifications apply to 1991 only (as far as i know). The above procedure applies to all 91-94 Tercels.[/QUOTE]
184 is in the neighborhood of what I would have been shooting for. 225 is absurd
[QUOTE=butre;51477561]184 is in the neighborhood of what I would have been shooting for. 225 is absurd[/QUOTE]
Do you guys have any explanation for why it would be so high? Is carbon buildup the only thing?
[editline]5th December 2016[/editline]
I read a post from someone suggesting it's just the engine is in near perfect condition and very tight. Soooo I like good news rather than bad :v
it's definitely carbon buildup.
if it doesn't have any hotspots just roll with it and put premium gas in
or try to run it on ether for a minute and see if that blows the carbon off and doesn't just put a hole in the piston
Will premium gas help burn off some of that crap maybe? Also I pulled the plugs, they were flawless. Doubt they were put in recently. The wires are original as well.
it wont help you burn off the crap, but it'll stop you from pinging from that obscene carbon buildup
revving it's ass off might possibly blow some of the carbon away though, but probably not enough to matter
Some seafoam probably wouldn't hurt
[QUOTE=Del91;51477927]Some seafoam probably wouldn't hurt[/QUOTE]
I'll give this a shot. Try an get a picture of what I can see in each cylinder and post an update.
[url]http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/5893384276.html[/url]
Yes or No?
yes all of the yes although I am horribly biased against marauders so take that as you will however that thing is super clean
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