Guys...
It snowed....
I have summer street drag radials on my SRT-4............ It's like driving around on four flat tires until they warm up. Any one know where I can get a second set of wheels for snow tires? :v:
I've already spent too many hours researching Volvo s70s....really curious as to what condition my friend's one is gonna be in when I take a look on Friday. Now that I have a tad more of an idea of what to look for, I feel a bit more confident I'll catch any faults.
Seems that it really shouldn't be an issue to tow the little family sailboat (maybe 500-700lbs including trailer at very most. my dad and brother are so fond of. My brother doesn't care what happens to the kia nor if it gets replaced with a manual, which he can't drive (yet). And I did at least get a message today asking if the Kia was still available. Haven't heard back from them since that message, but at least many factors regarding whether it will be ok with going forward getting a[I]different car[/I] are not proving to be issues.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;51495419]It's only suppose to get in the mid 20's here....
I am a Texan I do not know how to respond to this.....[/QUOTE]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/8eLaYu2.jpg[/img]
[QUOTE=Lerlth;51495603]Guys...
It snowed....
I have summer street drag radials on my SRT-4............ It's like driving around on four flat tires until they warm up. Any one know where I can get a second set of wheels for snow tires? :v:[/QUOTE]
I've always read at worst summer tires can actually crack in cold enough weather and shit. I yell at my dad whenever he goes out or considers going out with his Miata on BFG summer tires. He doesn't notice any difference surprisingly. He doesn't bother with the snow (at least so far, but I'm sure he'll consider it), but I'd hate to see him try.
I mean so you actually managed to go places and didn't appear to crack the rubber at all?
[QUOTE=Lerlth;51495603]Guys...
It snowed....
I have summer street drag radials on my SRT-4............ It's like driving around on four flat tires until they warm up. Any one know where I can get a second set of wheels for snow tires? :v:[/QUOTE]
literally any junkyard will have hundreds of thousands of 5x100 wheels in any size you can imagine for like $60 for a full set
Had a high of 12 today here in Denver. Warming up to 15 tomorrow.
-22 with 50km/h winds so it comes to about -28 or so. Not fun working! But at least the garage is warm
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;51495983]-22 with 50km/h winds so it comes to about -28 or so. Not fun working! But at least the garage is warm[/QUOTE]
How do you survive.....
[QUOTE=deathmog;51487030]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/1EoiFOa.jpg[/t]
[/QUOTE] Not a transAm , but I still would've put a red oscillating light on the front.
there's never been negative temperatures here in all of recorded history. probably never in prehistory either
[editline]8th December 2016[/editline]
the worst we ever had was about 10 degrees in the '60s and it grinded the city to a halt because all the crops died and we couldn't fish
Out of curiosity is it possible to get better cornering with hub motors?
[QUOTE=RoboChimp;51496650]Out of curiosity is it possible to get better cornering with hub motors?[/QUOTE]
what
motors in the hub
waaaaaaat
even the best system would be heavy still plus the weight will be higher than a mad man.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;51496668]what
motors in the hub
waaaaaaat
even the best system would be heavy still plus the weight will be higher than a mad man.[/QUOTE]Yeah it's a thing:
[IMG]http://www.torquenews.com/sites/default/files/image-1075/%5Btitle-raw%5D/protean-schematic.jpg[/IMG]
[url]http://www.torquenews.com/1075/protean-shows-production-ready-wheel-electric-motor-system-2014-launch[/url]
According this article, they weigh 31KG and give 75Kw or 100HP of torque.
I was thinking if you put them on your two powerless wheels, you could get AWD cornering when you wanted it.
[QUOTE=RoboChimp;51496741]Yeah it's a thing:
[IMG]http://www.torquenews.com/sites/default/files/image-1075/%5Btitle-raw%5D/protean-schematic.jpg[/IMG]
[url]http://www.torquenews.com/1075/protean-shows-production-ready-wheel-electric-motor-system-2014-launch[/url]
According this article, they weigh 31KG and give 75Kw or 100HP of torque.
I was thinking if you put them on your two powerless wheels, you could get AWD cornering when you wanted it.[/QUOTE]
Sounds like a metric shit ton of unsprung weight which would horrible to control in any sort of performance application. The NSX, 918, and P1 all use inboard low mounted electric motors. If it was a better idea to make them part of the suspension and eliminate axles, ect. It would have been done.
For something cheap or maybe for some DIY applications where custom axles and drivetrain parts aren't cost effective these might be useful. You're gonna need a decent suspension geometry to make up for unsprung weight and hell you'll need everything from bushings to traction arms to keep that heavy as shit assembly in the direction it's supposed to be. I'd imagine you'd have to play with the steering ratios, ackerman and all that jazz to keep the wheels straight on a car if you wanted it FWD and keep it from twisting independently about in a RWD app.
Sticking them in the rear of a FWD car might possibly work okay but having such violently different suspension characteristics out of the front and the rear I'd imagine would cause some interesting results. Although you'd have to fab up new trailing arms so you don't have wheels which sit half a foot outside the wheel well. With a RWD car you might be able to get away with using a empty axle as a dummy with a FWD offset or something.
Still, if you even remotely cared about cornering or performance. You'd absolutely need proper torque vectoring with well tuned custom computer controls to get the maximum performance out of a system like that specifically designed for your application. Even then you'd still be heavy as shit, limited to batteries and heat immensely. Ending up with spending more money than fabbing in a AWD setup of some custom made sort or throwing your entire platform in the trash and just buying an Evo.
Honestly sounds like some sort of shitty niche tech to make classic collectors cars roll around without having to start the engine or wear on the drivetrain or possibly even needing a extremely expensive or rare drivetrain. Although either way, you should just drop your extremely expensive junk off at somewhere like EV West anyways and get something which actually works as good if not better than the previous drivetrain.
[QUOTE=RoboChimp;51496741]Yeah it's a thing:
[IMG]http://www.torquenews.com/sites/default/files/image-1075/%5Btitle-raw%5D/protean-schematic.jpg[/IMG]
[url]http://www.torquenews.com/1075/protean-shows-production-ready-wheel-electric-motor-system-2014-launch[/url]
According this article, they weigh 31KG and give 75Kw or 100HP of torque.
I was thinking if you put them on your two powerless wheels, you could get AWD cornering when you wanted it.[/QUOTE]
If you look at the dimensions it needs largeish wheels. Your idea sounds nice on the surface, but when you dig in to it, actually you'd be getting the worst of both worlds- you'd have the added weight of the motors (60kg is considerable!) plus the power electronics needed to drive it which are probably going to be another 10kg, then you'd need some method of powering it and your conventional alternator is unlikely going to provide the current necessary so you'd have to fit batteries which adds more weight, without loosing any weight from removing the existing engine or drive train.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;51496436]How do you survive.....[/QUOTE]
Its not all too bad! The wind is the killer.
What works for me is two long sleeve shirts, a hoodie, and then a denim kinda coat (idk the material) to keep the wind from cutting through.
For the legs its long johns, jeans, and overalls, two pairs of socks, and insulated rubber boots.
Misc stuff is 2 pairs of gloves (one warm inside, one leather outside for the wind), a rabbit fur ushanka, and something that is like a toque with the top cut open so it can go around your neck and mouth.
Shits down to a science yo
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/image_zpsvpynlbuq.png[/thumb]
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/image_zpskmzutapv.png[/thumb]
Makes me miss Syracuse. Regularly would get -10 with -25 degree windchills there (and this is Fahrenheit, cause 'merica)
Now it gets to like, 31 and the world shuts down here in Arkansas.
Looking up on the Protean stuff, the only thing it's ever been used on was a F150 back in 2011. There's some press releases about chinese investers and actual manufacturing though. It's definitely some tech intended for fleet and commercial use on trucks and other larger solid axle, leaf spring simplistic rear suspension vehicles. It's definitely not going to make you handle better but it can make your truck or van electric.
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;51496892]Its not all too bad! The wind is the killer.
What works for me is two long sleeve shirts, a hoodie, and then a denim kinda coat (idk the material) to keep the wind from cutting through.
For the legs its long johns, jeans, and overalls, two pairs of socks, and insulated rubber boots.
Misc stuff is 2 pairs of gloves (one warm inside, one leather outside for the wind), a rabbit fur ushanka, and something that is like a toque with the top cut open so it can go around your neck and mouth.
Shits down to a science yo
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/image_zpsvpynlbuq.png[/thumb]
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/image_zpskmzutapv.png[/thumb][/QUOTE]
You'd fit right in with the freezer crew where I work
[QUOTE=slayer3032;51496868]Sounds like a metric shit ton of unsprung weight which would horrible to control in any sort of performance application. The NSX, 918, and P1 all use inboard low mounted electric motors. If it was a better idea to make them part of the suspension and eliminate axles, ect. It would have been done.
For something cheap or maybe for some DIY applications where custom axles and drivetrain parts aren't cost effective these might be useful. You're gonna need a decent suspension geometry to make up for unsprung weight and hell you'll need everything from bushings to traction arms to keep that heavy as shit assembly in the direction it's supposed to be. I'd imagine you'd have to play with the steering ratios, ackerman and all that jazz to keep the wheels straight on a car if you wanted it FWD and keep it from twisting independently about in a RWD app.
Sticking them in the rear of a FWD car might possibly work okay but having such violently different suspension characteristics out of the front and the rear I'd imagine would cause some interesting results. Although you'd have to fab up new trailing arms so you don't have wheels which sit half a foot outside the wheel well. With a RWD car you might be able to get away with using a empty axle as a dummy with a FWD offset or something.
Still, if you even remotely cared about cornering or performance. You'd absolutely need proper torque vectoring with well tuned custom computer controls to get the maximum performance out of a system like that specifically designed for your application. Even then you'd still be heavy as shit, limited to batteries and heat immensely. Ending up with spending more money than fabbing in a AWD setup of some custom made sort or throwing your entire platform in the trash and just buying an Evo.
Honestly sounds like some sort of shitty niche tech to make classic collectors cars roll around without having to start the engine or wear on the drivetrain or possibly even needing a extremely expensive or rare drivetrain. Although either way, you should just drop your extremely expensive junk off at somewhere like EV West anyways and get something which actually works as good if not better than the previous drivetrain.[/QUOTE]
It seems like a complex set of problems regarding suspension, but it doesn't seem completely impossible. I'll have to educate myself on suspension systems just so I can see if there is a way around it.
I was hoping it was possible use the hub motor to create a car that can be AWD sometimes and RWD most of the time, while having a really good turning circle.
My car is front wheel drive so I could see if I could try it.
[editline]8th December 2016[/editline]
[QUOTE=metallics;51496874]If you look at the dimensions it needs largeish wheels. Your idea sounds nice on the surface, but when you dig in to it, actually you'd be getting the worst of both worlds- you'd have the added weight of the motors (60kg is considerable!) plus the power electronics needed to drive it which are probably going to be another 10kg, then you'd need some method of powering it and your conventional alternator is unlikely going to provide the current necessary so you'd have to fit batteries which adds more weight, without loosing any weight from removing the existing engine or drive train.[/QUOTE]
Hmm, if you could get the motor to a reasonable weight it's probably viable. I'm somewhat sceptical that the electronics would take up 10Kg. You're right about the battery, but... perhaps a battery more like the ones used in toyota hybrids would surfice, or possibly shedding weight in other areas to account for it.
[QUOTE=RoboChimp;51497019]It seems like a complex set of problems regarding suspension, but it doesn't seem completely impossible. I'll have to educate myself on suspension systems just so I can see if there is a way around it.
I was hoping it was possible use the hub motor to create a car that can be AWD sometimes and RWD most of the time, while having a really good turning circle.
My car is front wheel drive so I could see if I could try it.
[editline]8th December 2016[/editline]
Hmm, if you could get the motor to a reasonable weight it's probably viable. I'm somewhat sceptical that the electronics would take up 10Kg. You're right about the battery, but... perhaps a battery more like the ones used in toyota hybrids would surface, or possibly shedding weight in other areas to account for it.[/QUOTE]
Power electronics is heavy, wherever large currents are involved because it gets very hot.
[QUOTE=metallics;51497584]Power electronics is heavy, wherever large currents are involved because it gets very hot.[/QUOTE]That's true, but again not impossible to deal with.
[QUOTE=RoboChimp;51497608]That's true, but again not impossible to deal with.[/QUOTE]
I never said it was, although it isnt in a robust fashion at present. I just explained why it's heavy (source: I deal in aerospace electronics)
[QUOTE=metallics;51497623]I never said it was, although it isnt in a robust fashion at present. I just explained why it's heavy (source: I deal in aerospace electronics)[/QUOTE]
And anything high voltage needs to be carefully designed, because you don't want a unintentional spark gap, not to mention I'm pretty damn sure that over a certain voltage range you need to be certified HV technician no matter the field you work in to dabble with it 'live'.
[QUOTE=metallics;51497623]I never said it was, although it isnt in a robust fashion at present. I just explained why it's heavy (source: I deal in aerospace electronics)[/QUOTE]Whoa!, you must have a very impressive resume ([B]<- not sarcasm[/B]). I'm not an expert but assume anything with high amperage tends to heat up.
Anyone got any experience with fuel sending units like this one?
[t]https://i.imgur.com/h7JKlmp.jpg[/t][t]https://i.imgur.com/y3pRKE3.jpg[/t]
Its from my '73 BMW. I can't, or don't know how to take it apart propperly so I had to "clean" it by spraying it with break-cleaner.
Before I cleaned it would not go above 40 liters ( max 50 ), now I have cleaned it the meter will go to 50, but now it won't go below 10.
And yes, I've made sure I wired it propperly
[QUOTE=Timezbrick;51498063]Anyone got any experience with fuel sending units like this one?
[t]https://i.imgur.com/h7JKlmp.jpg[/t][t]https://i.imgur.com/y3pRKE3.jpg[/t]
Its from my '73 BMW. I can't, or don't know how to take it apart propperly so I had to "clean" it by spraying it with break-cleaner.
Before I cleaned it would not go above 40 liters ( max 50 ), now I have cleaned it the meter will go to 50, but now it won't go below 10.
And yes, I've made sure I wired it propperly[/QUOTE]
Probably some gunk build-up that the brake-cleaner only dislodged instead of dissolving that's blocking the arm that the float to the fuel-level potentiometer operates.
Or the contact points of the potentiometer itself, some sender units have the internal parts of the potentiometer "open" to the fuel.
Isn't the ends of the sender-unit just flared & crimped? or does it seem soldered?
[QUOTE=Van-man;51498079]Probably some gunk build-up that the brake-cleaner only dislodged instead of dissolving that's blocking the arm that the float to the fuel-level potentiometer operates.
Or the contact points of the potentiometer itself, some sender units have the internal parts of the potentiometer "open" to the fuel.
Isn't the ends of the sender-unit just flared & crimped? or does it seem soldered?[/QUOTE]
Do you mean these?
[t]http://i.imgur.com/NWqF8D6.jpg[/t]
The one in the back/lleft most is ground, the low fuel light doesnt work but the wireing does work since the meter wil be either 0 or 50 when I wire the sender wrong
[QUOTE=Timezbrick;51498213]Do you mean these?
[t]http://i.imgur.com/NWqF8D6.jpg[/t]
The one in the back/lleft most is ground, the low fuel light doesnt work but the wireing does work since the meter wil be either 0 or 50 when I wire the sender wrong[/QUOTE]
I was referring to the metal parts of the fuel-sender can itself, but yes that's the contacts to the potentiometer.
But in most cases the potentiometer is located in the middle, so that's just a terminal point that goes to a set of wires internally to the potentiometer.
[QUOTE=Van-man;51498236]I was referring to the metal parts of the fuel-sender can itself, but yes that's the contacts to the potentiometer.
But in most cases the potentiometer is located in the middle, so that's just a terminal point that goes to a set of wires internally to the potentiometer.[/QUOTE]
I can't really see much, I do see some plastic covers.
I also think it does reach the ends as I can hear a clunck when I move it to the bottom or to the top. I also checked the resistance; at the bottom its 3 ohm and at the top 76 ohm ( can't remeber exactly now but it was something like that )
Well I bought a new engine for the second racecar.
BMW 2003 M43B30
60k miles, about 800usd
[img]http://i.imgur.com/LwNgo1J.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/qKJjnPJ.png[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/N0I5Oji.png[/img]
-22 and my 12 valve is determined to sleep it off. Guess I'll get something more practical, recommendations for a winter beater?
Something reliable, but also fun.
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