Ah winters. My Corollabortion with a set of General Altimax Artic tires has proven to be a champ. I've been through 3 or 4 Wisconsin winters or something with that setup now and it had never done me wrong. It's so predictable. The understeer is manageable, it's never oversteered (unless some knob pulls the ebrake :v:), and just feels well planted on the road. No traction control, no ABS, just the driver and the road.
I can only imagine an AWD with a good set of snow tires (especially one biased toward the front wheels).. must be unstoppable. My friend's Talon TSi with snow tires he said was amazing, but I never got to have a rip in it. Good tires makes so much difference it's crazy.
My brother drove his gsx up to mt hood with winter tires and never had an issue until his transmission exploded. :v:
Turns out, previous owner installed 1" alloy lift blocks. Both of them shattered.
Plans are to go to stock height for now, then add a leaf later for a 2" lift.
Looking at some skyjacker full length soft rides, should give a nice dependable ride.
Eventually will do shocks and tires. Not sure what shocks to do. Really want 255/85/16 tires, but so hard to get and expensive.
[QUOTE=Slithers;51515894]The key to open diff RWD driving in the snow is to conserve momentum and use as much gas as necessary to move forward and nothing more. Also, make sure you have some winter tires or you're gonna have some slip and slide fun.
Just drove my 190E 30 miles in the snow, but I had to do 5-10 under the speed limit and didn't bother going near the gas unless if I had to. I also bled 10 MPH on each 5+% grade I went up so I didn't exceed the limits of my rear snow tires. None of the roads were plowed or salted, are not travelled by many at night, and had a 1" coating. It was a very nice and relaxing drive.[/QUOTE]
The key to driving a crown vic with no traction control and a limited slip is that you cant understeer if youre already oversteering.
My Charger had an open diff, the key was to keep your momentum, like said above. If you had to go up a big hill, you better start getting speed.
My Dakota has a LSD and it was generally just go slow and light on the throttle.
I remember at my last job delivering auto parts, I had to drive some of the RWD trucks we had for a couple shifts. We had a Tacoma and Ranger (both beat to hell). Before I helped convince them snow tires were necessary, I can recall many times getting stuck on hills, especially due to TC not allowing any useful amount of slip. I mean it was great not sliding 10-20ft back down, but at the same time it sucked not being able to move more than like 6in at a time. Once we got snows on them, I felt they were surprisingly some of the most stable driving in the fleet. Likewise, the shitty Honda Fit that went overdue for snows was my "main" car for deliveries, and despite it being so light and nimble, it slid around like it was 3x its weight. I remember the Kia Soul with snow tires being another great one in the snow.
Also got a light taste of snow driving in my Miata back in March of this year. It was about the same as driving in heavy rain really, just little but controllable events of losing traction for 2-3s. Never driven it in actual accumulated snow though.
as i was snowblowing the 6" of snow western MA got I witnessed not two, not three, but FOUR people with either 4wd or awd vehicles go cruising like it wasn't snowing and slide straight through the stop sign amazed that while not everyone has all wheel drive, everyone has all wheel brakes
Every time i see a half ton truck stuck because he parked with one rear wheel in the ditch, i almost shed a tear. Why would someone make a vehicle with good ground clearance, all terrain tires, 4wd, and boatloads of commercials showcasing it blasting through mud with a pallet of cinder blocks in the back, and then go and make it absolutely useless by putting an open diff in it?
[QUOTE=Birdman101;51517610]Every time i see a half ton truck stuck because he parked with one rear wheel in the ditch, i almost shed a tear. Why would someone make a vehicle with good ground clearance, all terrain tires, 4wd, and boatloads of commercials showcasing it blasting through mud with a pallet of cinder blocks in the back, and then go and make it absolutely useless by putting an open diff in it?[/QUOTE]
My 3/4 ton diesel has open diffs, i think it is due to driveability reasons.
Even with open diffs and decent tires, it gets sideways a lot when the roads are wet. A locker would make it much worse.
I've been considering a mini spool or something later on, but it would hurt wet condition driveability.
[QUOTE=iRex;51517492]as i was snowblowing the 6" of snow western MA got I witnessed not two, not three, but FOUR people with either 4wd or awd vehicles go cruising like it wasn't snowing and slide straight through the stop sign amazed that while not everyone has all wheel drive, everyone has all wheel brakes[/QUOTE]
My parents always say "All wheel drive is still all wheel slide in the winter."
[QUOTE=FordLord;51516629]Turns out, previous owner installed 1" alloy lift blocks. Both of them shattered.
Plans are to go to stock height for now, then add a leaf later for a 2" lift.
Looking at some skyjacker full length soft rides, should give a nice dependable ride.
Eventually will do shocks and tires. Not sure what shocks to do. Really want 255/85/16 tires, but so hard to get and expensive.[/QUOTE]
Add a leaf makes your ride stiffer, I'd recommend just going with a steel block or cast iron. The old dodge trucks like mine come with a 4" block from the factory and I've never seen them fail. The best of course is a full leaf pack but they're expensive.
Skyjacker, pro comp, and rough country shocks are pretty bad. Every truck I've had with them on were blown. If you can afford the little extra, go with a set of bilsteins, you dont be disappointed and they'll last you a lot longer.
Spend the money on a good set once rather than on two shitty sets twice. Thats why I went with the kings on my truck.
[editline]12th December 2016[/editline]
[QUOTE=FordLord;51518126]My 3/4 ton diesel has open diffs, i think it is due to driveability reasons.
Even with open diffs and decent tires, it gets sideways a lot when the roads are wet. A locker would make it much worse.
I've been considering a mini spool or something later on, but it would hurt wet condition driveability.[/QUOTE]
A set of detroit True-trac lockers and good tires would probably make a world of difference.
I dont get why these trucks are always advertised as "4x4" when 2 and sometimes 3 tires only spin. When I axle swap my truck I'm throwing a locker in the front, the one in the back is so tight that if I'm turning while going backwards on a slight decline the truck will stop.
Is it just how the power comes on with your truck with how it slides everywhere? In my dodge any time it gets above 1800rpm it goes from 180hp NA to 450hp under boost and the shock breaks the tires loose unless I feather the throttle
[QUOTE=Lerlth;51487254]Update on the PT Cruiser GT:
[B]Leaking a quart of oil every week now. I think it's the turbo return... Not sure till I can get under it this weekend.[/B]
Neon SRT-4:
Determined boost leak is probably the BOV opening per-maturally or the hot side of the turbo is leaking where it goes to the hard pipe.
Turbos, man.[/QUOTE]
The fucking oil filter was loose.
I want a midsize 4-door rear-drive sedan that isn't luxury car expensive. Why is this so hard for Detroit? The only cars that fit my profile are basically BMWs and Cadillacs and other luxury sedans. What I want is a 4-door Miata or BRZ sedan, basically.
[editline]12th December 2016[/editline]
The SS is great in theory but still quite expensive. Starts at $45,xxx.
[editline]12th December 2016[/editline]
Oh I forgot about the Charger/300. Never mind my scatterbrained ramblings.
[QUOTE=Lerlth;51518481]The fucking oil filter was loose.[/QUOTE]
OOOhhhh...
Don't beat yourself up too hard.
I spent a month once diagnosing a potential ECM failure when the [I]entire time[/I] the fucking battery neg terminal was dirty and couldn't tighten because of a wrecked bolt.
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;51518483]
[editline]12th December 2016[/editline]
Oh I forgot about the Charger/300. Never mind my scatterbrained ramblings.[/QUOTE]
I was going to say...
[editline]12th December 2016[/editline]
[QUOTE=S31-Syntax;51518585]
Don't beat yourself up too hard.
[/QUOTE]
This is the first time this has ever happened. I guess it just backed itself off or something.
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;51518483]I want a midsize 4-door rear-drive sedan that isn't luxury car expensive. Why is this so hard for Detroit? The only cars that fit my profile are basically BMWs and Cadillacs and other luxury sedans. What I want is a 4-door Miata or BRZ sedan, basically.
[editline]12th December 2016[/editline]
The SS is great in theory but still quite expensive. Starts at $45,xxx.
[editline]12th December 2016[/editline]
Oh I forgot about the Charger/300. Never mind my scatterbrained ramblings.[/QUOTE]
You can grab a used caprice ppv for 10-15 large. Its pretty much a chevy ss with 60 less horsepower, cylinder deactivation, and a traction control you can never turn off without yanking the fuse. I think i might grab one in a few years once the crown vic eats shit in one way or another.
[editline]12th December 2016[/editline]
And then wire a toggle switch inline with the tc fuse like the cheap ass i am.
Stop buying used police vehicles
But cheap muscle
[QUOTE=Del91;51519274]But cheap muscle[/QUOTE]
Yeah man. 390HP Dodge Charger for 8 or 9 big ones.
I will admit... The hour meter is ridiculous on some cars. Like mine had 9000 hours on it when I bought it. Didn't have any mechanical problems though. It's one of things where you go through the lot and find the one with the least miles and hours on it.
[QUOTE=Code3Response;51519142]Stop buying used police vehicles[/QUOTE]
yeah please save some for me
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;51518418]Add a leaf makes your ride stiffer, I'd recommend just going with a steel block or cast iron. The old dodge trucks like mine come with a 4" block from the factory and I've never seen them fail. The best of course is a full leaf pack but they're expensive.
Skyjacker, pro comp, and rough country shocks are pretty bad. Every truck I've had with them on were blown. If you can afford the little extra, go with a set of bilsteins, you dont be disappointed and they'll last you a lot longer.
Spend the money on a good set once rather than on two shitty sets twice. Thats why I went with the kings on my truck.
[editline]12th December 2016[/editline]
A set of detroit True-trac lockers and good tires would probably make a world of difference.
I dont get why these trucks are always advertised as "4x4" when 2 and sometimes 3 tires only spin. When I axle swap my truck I'm throwing a locker in the front, the one in the back is so tight that if I'm turning while going backwards on a slight decline the truck will stop.
Is it just how the power comes on with your truck with how it slides everywhere? In my dodge any time it gets above 1800rpm it goes from 180hp NA to 450hp under boost and the shock breaks the tires loose unless I feather the throttle[/QUOTE]
The skyjacker long style soft rides supposedly are pretty soft for add a leafs, most of the reviews are about how good the ride quality is.
My main concern with too big of a block is axle wrap. These trucks were made to have no blocks at all, i feel that an add a leaf would be a more reliable option and safer option.
I might be having 1" steel blocks made, but long term, i'd like to get rid of blocks.
I've heard bad things about every name brand off road shock. All 6 of my shocks have been blown since i bought the truck (HD option, dual shocks on front axle)
Since i need 6, it'll be costly and i will be stuck with a budget brand. I've heard a lot of good about kings.
My truck has the 14 bolt SF rear, so a lot of diff options there. The tires are pretty decent as is.
My truck is a non-turbo 6.2. Straight piped, intake modified, i basically have all 300tq just off idle.
[QUOTE=Lerlth;51517314]My Charger had an open diff, the key was to keep your momentum, like said above. If you had to go up a big hill, you better start getting speed.
My Dakota has a LSD and it was generally just go slow and light on the throttle.[/QUOTE]
Both diffs are open I think in mine. But it tends to get loose rather than tight in snow, which I prefer. I also found dropping three pounds out of the rear and two out of the fronts really, really helped last year with bald tires.
Late, but I finally bought a daily so I can retire the cvpi to actual work stuff
with all this sensationalist antipolice murder nonsense it isn't safe to tool around in one unarmed anymore
[t]http://i.imgur.com/dnGjxT6.jpg[/t]
already redid the dash, rims, and repaired some exhaust issues
It's got a bad lifter somewhere and drinks oil but otherwise is in pretty great shape
when you floor it you can hear it complain about kids these days as it moseys towards 60 and I [I]love it[/I]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/DaYS6o0.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/lsRfp15.jpg[/t]
Next up is either the headliner or the vinyl top, but I can't decide if I wanna redo the vinyl or delete and repaint it
That car screams 1980s FBI.
[QUOTE=Ridge;51520032]That car screams 1980s FBI.[/QUOTE]
As seen in, oh, I dunno,
Men in Black?
[t]http://www.imcdb.org/i004216.jpg[/t]
Stranger Things?
[t]https://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/s--f8sQsWjB--/c_scale,f_auto,fl_progressive,q_80,w_800/k1undogcssduh4mbcqyj.jpg[/t]
You get the idea. The connotation is a very happy coincidence, I was just looking for a rolling couch from the 80's with a square frame.
I fucking swear, every time I remember to nab my screw driver and volt meter, my car fires normally. Now that I have them, it fires normally and all the injectors test fine.
E: a friend of mine recommended checking for a cracked coil. Anyone agree with that recommendation, too? I don't see how a faulty coil would give a 0202 error.
[QUOTE=Sonador;51519989]Late, but I finally bought a daily so I can retire the cvpi to actual work stuff
with all this sensationalist antipolice murder nonsense it isn't safe to tool around in one unarmed anymore
[t]http://i.imgur.com/dnGjxT6.jpg[/t]
already redid the dash, rims, and repaired some exhaust issues
It's got a bad lifter somewhere and drinks oil but otherwise is in pretty great shape
when you floor it you can hear it complain about kids these days as it moseys towards 60 and I [I]love it[/I]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/DaYS6o0.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/lsRfp15.jpg[/t]
Next up is either the headliner or the vinyl top, but I can't decide if I wanna redo the vinyl or delete and repaint it[/QUOTE]
My first vehicle.. except mine was more shitty. It has some get-up in it
Do you guys know anything about plasma ignition?
[video]https://youtu.be/9oyrzLmyxeQ[/video]
Is this just bullshit or does it actually do something?
[QUOTE=Birdman101;51519111]You can grab a used caprice ppv for 10-15 large. Its pretty much a chevy ss with 60 less horsepower, cylinder deactivation, and a traction control you can never turn off without yanking the fuse. I think i might grab one in a few years once the crown vic eats shit in one way or another.
[editline]12th December 2016[/editline]
And then wire a toggle switch inline with the tc fuse like the cheap ass i am.[/QUOTE]
See the RCR on Caprices for why that's a bad idea.
[QUOTE=Trekintosh;51520178]See the RCR on Caprices for why that's a bad idea.[/QUOTE]
oh waah
If it was a perfect, easy to work on, feature-full car, I wouldnt be interested. I love it when impossible to find pieces on my cars break or I have mystery gremlins.
Speaking of which, the old explorer died on my little brother again, so now I get to find out the particular reason why a rotten old economy-engineered early 90's EFI dinosaur dies and wont start up again unless you let it sit for a while in 0 degree weather. Im fucking overjoyed.
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