Firearms XIV - All the Calicos Are Over There - General

[QUOTE=NuclearAnnhilation;51879393]Thanks for all the advice guys Well if I just keep using 8mm, it's coming out of a 1943 German K98 that's in good condition. But for hunting i would like a scope. So so I buy some reproduction WW2 era scope and put it on or do I buy a new modern rifle entirely with a modern scope? I think using old war guns is cool but I would like practicality on this one. But if I can avoid buying a new $600 rifle, I'd like that too.[/QUOTE] I would either just mount a modern scope to it, or buy an all new rifle with an all new scope. It's tough to keep authenticity accurate while also being practical about it. I mean I'm sure it's very doable to hunt with a repro German scope, but why gimp yourself?

[QUOTE=NuclearAnnhilation;51879393]Thanks for all the advice guys Well if I just keep using 8mm, it's coming out of a 1943 German K98 that's in good condition. But for hunting i would like a scope. So so I buy some reproduction WW2 era scope and put it on or do I buy a new modern rifle entirely with a modern scope? I think using old war guns is cool but I would like practicality on this one. But if I can avoid buying a new $600 rifle, I'd like that too.[/QUOTE] Unless your rifle was already tapped for a scope I would not do that.

Speaking of hunting, now that I actually live in a state that allows rifle hunting, I'm thinking of getting back into it but I really want to do it on a budget for now. Is the savage axis 2 XP 7mm an acceptable all in one package for Elk? I can get it for like $400 flat after fees.

for .308 my favorite handloads are 168Gr barnes TTSX over IMR4064 and 180Gr Nosler Partitions loaded hot over hogdon varget I've taken more then a few Elk and moose with the latter combo if you don't or can't handload the closest factory ammo is nosler trophy grade (165Gr accubond bullet as opposed to the 180Gr partition) and Remington Hog Hammer (same bullet weight however they're the regular Triple shocks as opposed to the tipped triples) like mac and prusse said while SMK's are great for accuracy and will work for hunting (anything will work for hunting given enough rounds) there are better alternatives. As far as bear goes I would think hard about running a .308 for em especially if your thinking about getting close (.308 will kill a bear given good shot placement what it wont do is STOP a pissed off bear) don't get me wrong it will work but there's a lot more factors when shooting a bear with a .308 as opposed to .300WM or .338. If your comfortable with and confident in your abilities with a .308 by all mean go for it but otherwise I would think about something with a little more oomph especially depending on where your hunting bear at cause some of the GMU's in alaska fill tags if you draw blood on a bear and don't drop it

The only guns I have that would work for big game is my K98 and a nugget lol. I forgot about having to tap the receiver, yeah fuck that. Hm I do want a rifle I can really train on so I don't blow a big shot, what are good modern 30-06 rifles or 300 win mag? I don't trust myself enough with using my K98 irons unless I do a shit ton of practice.

Define modern? My dad and uncle have both sworn by their '80s Browning A-Bolts for decades. I've personally used my Great-Grandfather's '60s Remington 7600 for almost a decade now. Their modern counterparts would be the X-Bolt which as far as I know is basically the same gun but without a golden trigger, and a 200th anniversary of the 7600 which is just the same gun but almost a grande more for no real reason. I know a lot of people here like Tikka rifles and would recommend them for about $500-600 and if you don't care about rifles going off while you gently tap the rear of the receiver while in safe, you could pick up a 700 series for about 500 somewhere.

Is your K98 German? I wouldn't go hunting with my German karabiners. If you're set on using a Mauser for cool points(who wouldn't? I would) you could look for a Czech Mauser or something with not so much historical value. If you're set on the action specifically basically any modern rifle has a Mauser action.

As much as I hate Glocks (which is a lot) I saw a white Glock the other day and now I kinda want one in white. [t]http://i.imgur.com/Y05osIW.jpg[/t] Actually looks... pretty cool.

I want Glock to make a polymer-frame 1911. I'd buy it just to watch both sides' fanboys shit themselves at the range.

[QUOTE=NuclearAnnhilation;51879840]The only guns I have that would work for big game is my K98 and a nugget lol. I forgot about having to tap the receiver, yeah fuck that. Hm I do want a rifle I can really train on so I don't blow a big shot, what are good modern 30-06 rifles or 300 win mag? I don't trust myself enough with using my K98 irons unless I do a shit ton of practice.[/QUOTE] Tikka's are nice like mastoner20 said got a couple buddies with the T3 hunter and T3 tactical rifles great little shooters. The savage 10/110, 11/111 and 16/116 lines are great as well and most come with a pretty decent scope mounted. The R700 line is also an option but with the trigger issue i don't know if you wanna go that route. I've put 10's of thousands of rounds through the R700's I have and never had a problem even when they had the affected triggers in em but your mileage may vary. Also yeah I am going to strongly suggest you don't try and bag a moose or a bear with irons especially with an 8mm while I'm sure it can be done i would not suggest trying

[QUOTE=DaCommie1;51879975]I want Glock to make a polymer-frame 1911. I'd buy it just to watch both sides' fanboys shit themselves at the range.[/QUOTE] Best part? Factory mags are pinned 7 rounders, and cost $20-30 each. Full capacity mags are $80-90 each. Watch the butthurt flow.

[QUOTE=Psychokitten;51880069]Best part? Factory mags are pinned 7 rounders, and cost $20-30 each. Full capacity mags are $80-90 each. Watch the butthurt flow.[/QUOTE] And chamber it in 9mm.

[QUOTE=DaCommie1;51880141]And chamber it in 9mm.[/QUOTE] No. .380 ACP. With a 5.7mm limited edition for $2k.

[QUOTE=Psychokitten;51880422]No. .380 ACP. With a 5.7mm limited edition for $2k.[/QUOTE] But there's already a 1911 in .380 ACP with a polymer frame. It's from Browning. I own one.

[QUOTE=DaCommie1;51880516]But there's already a 1911 in .380 ACP with a polymer frame. It's from Browning. I own one.[/QUOTE] there's the baby rock from armscor and the kimber micro as well

The Browning .380 mini-1911 looks adorable and I want one

[QUOTE=Da Big Man;51880555]The Browning .380 mini-1911 looks adorable and I want one[/QUOTE] Mine was an unreliable POS that had to be sent in on warranty, which only kinda fixed the feeding issues it had, and then new issues with the mags came up. It's the most accurate pistol I own, but also the least reliable. I can't recommend it to anyone, and actively advise against even considering it for CCW.

20 cents per round before shipping on 1000 round case - 7.62x39 FMJ 123 Grain Russian Made Ammo with Lacquered Steel Case - Wolf [url]http://www.sgammo.com/product/wolf-or-wpa/1000-round-case-762x39-fmj-123-grain-russian-made-ammo-lacquered-steel-case-wolf[/url] $9 Gen 2 windowless black PMags: [url]http://www.sgammo.com/product/223-556mm-ammo/30-round-556mm-ar15-magazine-generation-2-p-mag-magpul-mag571-blk[/url] [editline]27th February 2017[/editline] 22 cents per round before shipping: 1000 Round Case - 223 Rem 56 Grain FMJ Golden Tiger Steel Case Ammo made by Vympel in Russia - LOT H 12 16 [url]http://www.sgammo.com/product/223-556mm-ammo/1000-round-case-223-rem-56-grain-fmj-golden-tiger-steel-case-ammo-made-vympe-0[/url]

They have them with windows for a dollar more: [url]http://www.sgammo.com/product/223-556mm-ammo/30-round-556mm-ar15-generation-2-p-mag-window-magpul-mag570-blk[/url]

[QUOTE=DaCommie1;51880914]Mine was an unreliable POS that had to be sent in on warranty, which only kinda fixed the feeding issues it had, and then new issues with the mags came up. It's the most accurate pistol I own, but also the least reliable. I can't recommend it to anyone, and actively advise against even considering it for CCW.[/QUOTE] I keep tellin' yall but yall won't listen to Cyke.

There are plenty of reasons not to use a toy 1911 for CCW reliability issues aside

[QUOTE=Grenadiac;51882424]They have them with windows for a dollar more: [url]http://www.sgammo.com/product/223-556mm-ammo/30-round-556mm-ar15-generation-2-p-mag-window-magpul-mag570-blk[/url][/QUOTE] Ordered two, and threw in a few boxes of Federal HST. :hypeisreal:

[QUOTE=Cyke Lon bee;51882636]I keep tellin' yall but yall won't listen to Cyke.[/QUOTE] Wait, sorry. Say something? But so, guys. I am getting two mixed reports on my M1. My grandfather is saying that it's unfired, yet my step-father is saying it's a rebuilt Garand. Other than checking for serials and hoping the gas block matches the receiver, what are some better ways to prove whether it's been fired or not? If not, I think I might be hitting the range with it this weekend to test out that block. You know. Scientifically and shit.

It's a gun. Who cares if it's been fired or not before you got it, it was meant to be shot, so go shoot it.

Collectors care. About the only reason I ask. If it's an unfired WWII issued gun, that extraordinarily rare for a rifle like that.

If it's really an unfired original he could turn around and sell it then pick up a rebuilt shooter plus another gun and have more fun.

True. Though I'm reasonably certain it was my great-grandfather's service rifle. So I doubt I'm ever going to sell it. But I'd kind of like to know for insurance purposes, too. I've got way too many firearms to not have some form of protection on.

If it was issued to your grandfather during the war, then how could it possibly be unfired?

He wasn't active front line forces being in the artillery division and his rifle was issued after basic training?

[QUOTE=DaCommie1;51884573]If it was issued to your grandfather during the war, then how could it possibly be unfired?[/QUOTE] A lack of people in grey uniforms in his general vicinity at any given time?