[QUOTE=Psychokitten;51919778]Well, I know it's early, but here are my proposals for the next thread:[/QUOTE]
I cast my vote for triggering cyke edition
Every day when i walk through downtown with my loaded 1911 stuffed into my boot in a leather holster I think to myself "boy cyke would flip if he heard about this!!!"
It's what keeps me going really
Don't worry though I have my C96 IWB for a backup
Firearms XV - modern grip safeties retroactively caused the holocaust
For Cyke:
[url]http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2017/02/11/feel-colt-m1911-handgun/[/url]
How I Feel About the Colt M1911 Handgun
-Is the Steyr 1907 Still Relevant?
by Bob McGunwriter
[i]its all about that grip angle[/i]
[QUOTE=Birdman101;51921053]I cast my vote for triggering cyke edition[/QUOTE]
CC'ing my Ruger 1911?
Too bad Ruger doesn't make a P64 clone
What the actual fcuk:
"5 Super-Quiet Guns That Don’t Need A Suppressor"
[url]http://a-suppressor.beforeitsnews.com/survival/2017/03/5-super-quiet-guns-that-dont-need-a-suppressor-2658570.html[/url]
1. Mosin Nagant M91/30. If your Mosin’s barrel has been cut down in any way or is something like an M91/59 or M44, please do not attempt this, as you will go deaf. I found out by accident on the M91/59.
I had been testing a group of rifles, three suppressed and one unsuppressed. After replacing a target from a suppressed string of fire from an M1A, I went back to my bench and picked up a Mosin Nagant M91/30 sniper rifle.
After charging the rifle with a stripper clip of copper-washed military surplus (milsurp) ammo, I fired a shot. Then I fired another and another and finally realized that my ear protection was sitting on the bench next to me. My ears were not ringing. Out of curiosity, I cranked off another shot. My ears still were not ringing.
Be Prepared. Learn The Best Ways To Hide Your Guns.
Since much of the noise from a gunshot has to do with the combustion of the powder before the bullet has left the barrel, I came to the conclusion that the powder charge was well-contained within the optimal length of the barrel. Coupled with the fact that the long 29-inch barrel was putting that signature about three-feet away from my ears meant I could shoot that all day with no indication of tinnitus.
Make no mistake, if you shoot something like this, people from a mile away may hear it, but you probably will not damage your eardrums if you have no ear pro.
[QUOTE=MAC21500;51921796]What the actual fcuk:
"5 Super-Quiet Guns That Don’t Need A Suppressor"
[url]http://a-suppressor.beforeitsnews.com/survival/2017/03/5-super-quiet-guns-that-dont-need-a-suppressor-2658570.html[/url]
1. Mosin Nagant M91/30. If your Mosin’s barrel has been cut down in any way or is something like an M91/59 or M44, please do not attempt this, as you will go deaf. I found out by accident on the M91/59.
I had been testing a group of rifles, three suppressed and one unsuppressed. After replacing a target from a suppressed string of fire from an M1A, I went back to my bench and picked up a Mosin Nagant M91/30 sniper rifle.
After charging the rifle with a stripper clip of copper-washed military surplus (milsurp) ammo, I fired a shot. Then I fired another and another and finally realized that my ear protection was sitting on the bench next to me. My ears were not ringing. Out of curiosity, I cranked off another shot. My ears still were not ringing.
Be Prepared. Learn The Best Ways To Hide Your Guns.
Since much of the noise from a gunshot has to do with the combustion of the powder before the bullet has left the barrel, I came to the conclusion that the powder charge was well-contained within the optimal length of the barrel. Coupled with the fact that the long 29-inch barrel was putting that signature about three-feet away from my ears meant I could shoot that all day with no indication of tinnitus.
Make no mistake, if you shoot something like this, people from a mile away may hear it, but you probably will not damage your eardrums if you have no ear pro.[/QUOTE]
What the hell is he smoking
The first time i shot my nugget without earpro to see what it was like, it felt like someone stabbed me in the ear with a pencil. I cannot fucking imagine how the russian peasants fighting in the war would maintain any hearing ability after a single battle.
[QUOTE=MAC21500;51921796]What the actual fcuk:
"5 Super-Quiet Guns That Don’t Need A Suppressor"
[url]http://a-suppressor.beforeitsnews.com/survival/2017/03/5-super-quiet-guns-that-dont-need-a-suppressor-2658570.html[/url]
1. Mosin Nagant M91/30. If your Mosin’s barrel has been cut down in any way or is something like an M91/59 or M44, please do not attempt this, as you will go deaf. I found out by accident on the M91/59.
I had been testing a group of rifles, three suppressed and one unsuppressed. After replacing a target from a suppressed string of fire from an M1A, I went back to my bench and picked up a Mosin Nagant M91/30 sniper rifle.
After charging the rifle with a stripper clip of copper-washed military surplus (milsurp) ammo, I fired a shot. Then I fired another and another and finally realized that my ear protection was sitting on the bench next to me. My ears were not ringing. Out of curiosity, I cranked off another shot. My ears still were not ringing.
Be Prepared. Learn The Best Ways To Hide Your Guns.
Since much of the noise from a gunshot has to do with the combustion of the powder before the bullet has left the barrel, I came to the conclusion that the powder charge was well-contained within the optimal length of the barrel. Coupled with the fact that the long 29-inch barrel was putting that signature about three-feet away from my ears meant I could shoot that all day with no indication of tinnitus.
Make no mistake, if you shoot something like this, people from a mile away may hear it, but you probably will not damage your eardrums if you have no ear pro.[/QUOTE]
Also in the article,
[quote]5. Remington Rolling Block in 45-70. That may seem like an unusual choice based on the size of the bullet and case. But if you are a hand-loader, you can get a 200-plus grain bullet moving about 750 feet per second that meters about 130 decibels on a sound meter. Because it’s a long-barreled, single-shot rifle, you won’t be able to put too many lead balls in the air close enough to damage your ears.
These are but five examples that I found worked for me, but if you do a little research you may find some of your own, like a 148 grain Hollow Based Wad Cutter through a 38 Special with only two grains of Bull’s-eye powder behind it, or maybe a 30-inch goose gun single-shot 12 gauge that brings down birds without alerting the neighbors on the next ridge.
[/quote]
OTG is a joke.
No reason to shoot without earpro in 90% of circumstances
Sure there are probably some guns that won't do any permanent damage, but there's not much of a down side to it, especially if you nab a good set of ears
[QUOTE=Cyke Lon bee;51921963]Also in the article,
OTG is a joke.[/QUOTE]
I've found that I can get my 45 to be super quiet if I just load 10% of the powder it needs.
[QUOTE=Levelog;51921982]I've found that I can get my 45 to be super quiet if I just load 10% of the powder it needs.[/QUOTE]
My K98k is completely silent if I don't shoot it.
[QUOTE=Cyke Lon bee;51922008]My K98k is completely silent if I don't shoot it.[/QUOTE]
My arisaka isn't
If you're considering a Century RAS47 for a first AK...dont:
This is from AKOU, rifle was near 3K rounds
[img]https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17103273_1487221297976811_3394832908480475023_n.jpg?oh=20dc16effe52dfe67b6a8e9e6bbec9e0&oe=596AFC79[/img]
[QUOTE=ilikecorn;51922166]Really? Because all of my rifles demand blood on a daily basis if I'm not shooting them.[/QUOTE]
I keep my Finn M39 next to my M91/30 and I wonder why it looks traumatized when I open the safe...
Firearms XV - Guns Cleaner Than the Rooms.
[QUOTE=Zombinie;51919572]Gonna drive 4 hours one way to go to an actually decent shooting range next week.
Gonna make a mini road trip of it, get a motel, check out some antique shops, have a relaxing time.
Mpls MN-->Fargo ND
Should I get a $46 motel room, or a $76 hotel room?
Gonna take the gun cases in the room, don't want to leave them in the car. Hope they don't mind me taking them in.
This will also be first roadtrip, and first time having sole posession of guns overnight. Kinda nervous[/QUOTE]
I leave facepunch for a weekend and come back to find out I'm not the only one in Minneapolis.....
[QUOTE=ilikecorn;51922166]Really? Because all of my rifles demand blood on a daily basis if I'm not shooting them.[/QUOTE]
My AR infiltrates my dreams from time to time and tries to convince me to fly to Vietnam and "avenge the fallen", whatever that means.
[QUOTE=Psychokitten;51924717]My AR infiltrates my dreams from time to time and tries to convince me to fly to Vietnam and "avenge the fallen", whatever that means.[/QUOTE]
IT AIN'T ME
IT AIN'T ME
[QUOTE=MAC21500;51922158]If you're considering a Century RAS47 for a first AK...dont:
This is from AKOU, rifle was near 3K rounds
[img]https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17103273_1487221297976811_3394832908480475023_n.jpg?oh=20dc16effe52dfe67b6a8e9e6bbec9e0&oe=596AFC79[/img][/QUOTE]
Is that a cast trunnion?! And a poorly heat treated bolt?! Century must have contracted out Hesse/Vulcan/Blackthorn once again...
Does anyone have experience with getting a gun refinished, such as general cost estimates and what sort of issues I might hit while looking for someone to do it for me? I have this Browning BL-22 lever action that I got a few years ago off of a longtime family friend, and he had it since the 80s at least. It's very rusty all over the barrel and has some light rusting on the exterior of the action. There's also some separation of the varnish from the stock due to all the dings from 30+ years of use.
It's a damn fine .22 and letting it sit with the rust makes me sad. It also has sentimental value to the original owner, so tossing it and buying a new one for $550 is out of the question. Think it would be worth paying the cost of having it restored? I do have some options, such as debluing it and getting a can or two of Duracoat and buying new wood furniture for it, but that would be too easy for me to fuck up. If the cost of a total rebluing goes over $250-300, I'll probably strip it myself and either hit it with Duracoat or send it to be parkerized.
[QUOTE=zombini;51925102]Does anyone have experience with getting a gun refinished, such as general cost estimates and what sort of issues I might hit while looking for someone to do it for me? I have this Browning BL-22 lever action that I got a few years ago off of a longtime family friend, and he had it since the 80s at least. It's very rusty all over the barrel and has some light rusting on the exterior of the action. There's also some separation of the varnish from the stock due to all the dings from 30+ years of use.
It's a damn fine .22 and letting it sit with the rust makes me sad. It also has sentimental value to the original owner, so tossing it and buying a new one for $550 is out of the question. Think it would be worth paying the cost of having it restored? I do have some options, such as debluing it and getting a can or two of Duracoat and buying new wood furniture for it, but that would be too easy for me to fuck up. If the cost of a total rebluing goes over $250-300, I'll probably strip it myself and either hit it with Duracoat or send it to be parkerized.[/QUOTE]
I used duracoat on a percussion rifle kit, and I can say it's only really good if you want to get it done cheaply. If you want it done well/last more than a year of use, get a more traditional finish.
[QUOTE=Trooper0315;51925214]I used duracoat on a percussion rifle kit, and I can say it's only really good if you want to get it done cheaply. If you want it done well/last more than a year of use, get a more traditional finish.[/QUOTE]
Duracoat can last for a very long time if applied right. 90% of any finish is prep work. Any oils from your hands, dust from the air, excess on a part, can lead to a bad finish.
If you're thinking about doing bluing think minimum $250. Same with a Cerakote, a bit less for duracoat. Cost wise is probably going to be more than the value of the gun, but if it has sentimental value then that's really more of a subjective issue.
[QUOTE=zombini;51925102]Does anyone have experience with getting a gun refinished, such as general cost estimates and what sort of issues I might hit while looking for someone to do it for me? I have this Browning BL-22 lever action that I got a few years ago off of a longtime family friend, and he had it since the 80s at least. It's very rusty all over the barrel and has some light rusting on the exterior of the action. There's also some separation of the varnish from the stock due to all the dings from 30+ years of use.
It's a damn fine .22 and letting it sit with the rust makes me sad. It also has sentimental value to the original owner, so tossing it and buying a new one for $550 is out of the question. Think it would be worth paying the cost of having it restored? I do have some options, such as debluing it and getting a can or two of Duracoat and buying new wood furniture for it, but that would be too easy for me to fuck up. If the cost of a total rebluing goes over $250-300, I'll probably strip it myself and either hit it with Duracoat or send it to be parkerized.[/QUOTE]
If you really care about it, get a proper bluing job. If you just want it to stop rusting, then use duracoat. The cost will still be high whether it's the bluing, cerakote, and to an extent the duracoat.
It would be such a waste to coat it instead of bluing it though.
[QUOTE=Lone_Star94;51926352]If you really care about it, get a proper bluing job. If you just want it to stop rusting, then use duracoat. The cost will still be high whether it's the bluing, cerakote, and to an extent the duracoat.
It would be such a waste to coat it instead of bluing it though.[/QUOTE]
Ok, I'll look into getting it reblued. I found a few places online that can do it for about $150-$225, although I'd need to ship it to them. I'll see about any local gunsmiths that can do it for roughly the same price. I'd like to get it parkerized as that's basically immune to rust, but I do want it to look nice as well. I'm really bad at remembering to regularly oil my guns when they're stored, so take that into consideration.
Story time! I went to the range to shoot more of my reloads and after going through this one batch, I had a FTF. Upon further inspection, I found a piece of brass that had been blown in half. I asked the RO about it and apparently, my ammo is too hot. I'll have to dial it back a bit for future rounds.
So be careful all you reloaders out there! Don't want to end up in my situation.
Did you start with max loads? Did you use new brass and not once fired stuff?
[QUOTE=PrusseLusken;51927402]lemme guess, you aren't using a book to find a suitable load or even QL to check them?[/QUOTE]
I used the correct load provided by an updated Nosler reloading manual.
[QUOTE=Lone_Star94;51927474]Did you start with max loads? Did you use new brass and not once fired stuff?[/QUOTE]
I started off with the lowest recommended load then gradually moved up to the maximum recommended load. I chose the highest because it was the most accurate. I also used once fired brass. Next time, I will dial it back a grain.
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