Anyone here think that the USP match trigger kit (NOT the LEM kit) would be worth the $130+ (maybe) gunsmith fees? My USP9 has horrifying trigger creep, at least in comparison to my M9. Otherwise it handles and shoots 10X better than the M9, just I find myself getting impatient or jumpy when I'm putting near full force on the trigger and it moves a little without actually firing. I could just file the sears down to get rid of most of it, but I'd rather not risk ruining it.
[QUOTE=zombini;51967170]Anyone here think that the USP match trigger kit (NOT the LEM kit) would be worth the $130+ (maybe) gunsmith fees? My USP9 has horrifying trigger creep, at least in comparison to my M9. Otherwise it handles and shoots 10X better than the M9, just I find myself getting impatient or jumpy when I'm putting near full force on the trigger and it moves a little without actually firing. I could just file the sears down to get rid of most of it, but I'd rather not risk ruining it.[/QUOTE]
Do you have a DAO setup or something? My USP40 doesnt have this issue. Might be worth it to take it to a smith first to look at it before dropping the money for a trigger.
Either way a trigger upgrade is never a bad thing.
Speaking of I've been considering a basic trigger replacement because I'm not a huge fan of the stock one that came in my PSA bag. Anyone know if that $65 one from bravo is worth the money?
[editline]15th March 2017[/editline]
[url]http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/triggers-parts/triggers/ar-15-bcmgunfighter-pnt-trigger-prod82713.aspx[/url]
I've had this Mauser front sight sitting on my desk for a month now, I should probably install it at some point.
[QUOTE=Durandal;51966945]Apparently they had their credentials stripped by the NRA and the North Carolina Department of Justice because it was deemed their training was just so terribly unsafe
[URL="https://bearingarms.com/bob-o/2016/12/26/infotainer-attempts-justify-dangerous-firearms-training-failure/"]source[/URL][/QUOTE]
Good fucking riddance.
So I've been messing around trying to take pictures of the Erma's striker for the guys that contacted me about making a new one and I discovered something kind of alarming that actually makes me glad that it failed in the condition that it did rather than how it very easily could have.
[img]https://i.gyazo.com/0f821b8d2c022623f6a082db45ddbf77.png[/img]
[img]https://i.gyazo.com/fb6a74f8c7ca00966cd7190ef4530795.png[/img][img]https://i.gyazo.com/b7dac72240875f8751974a855d3e6fd5.png[/img]
I know these pictures kind of suck... but this thing is incredibly hard to take pictures of. Basically here you can see that the square-bottomed lug that has the tooth for the sear to catch has cracked where it meets the striker body and is pulling away from the striker. This is causing the entire striker assembly to ride at a wonky angle in the striker channel and, I suspect, is what caused the firing pin to snap off, because the face of the pin itself looks A-OK.
This very slight off-angle is also causing friction in the mechanism when the slide is pulled back with the striker body grinding against something it's never supposed to come into contact with. Long story short, this could have led to a much more serious failure, like potentially a full-auto runaway if that thing separated fully from the striker body... so I'm glad it broke without damaging any other part of the gun... or me. :v:
[QUOTE=The Rifleman;51965050]They should just shoot each other to simulate real life situations and how to respond and shoot back when hit too[/QUOTE]
when u want 2 lern 2 shoot but ur russian so u have to cyka the blyat out of it
[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rI01qKAqYts[/media]
[QUOTE=EliteSuperS;51965127]Have another inept shooting range instructor:
[video=youtube;kuqANKDAqxA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kuqANKDAqxA[/video][/QUOTE]
Incredible safety violation aside, that guy has some baring. Aside from the flinch from the gun going off it was as if nothing happened.
[QUOTE=UncleJimmema;51968211]Incredible safety violation aside, that guy has some baring. Aside from the flinch from the gun going off it was as if nothing happened.[/QUOTE]
Perhaps the scariest part of it is that it's also possible he's so stupid that he doesn't react, or he fucks up like this [I]on the regular.[/I]
I wonder if he intended to do it as a sort of "this is what happens when you fuck around" lesson?? If so, incredibly dumb but effective I guess.
Finally getting that SMLE and K31 soon, the licence came through
[QUOTE=Sonador;51968826]Perhaps the scariest part of it is that it's also possible he's so stupid that he doesn't react, or he fucks up like this [I]on the regular.[/I]
I wonder if he intended to do it as a sort of "this is what happens when you fuck around" lesson?? If so, incredibly dumb but effective I guess.[/QUOTE]
If it were meant to be a lesson, he likely would have said so.
He's just a stupid, incompetent bastard.
[QUOTE=Grenadiac;51967860]
This very slight off-angle is also causing friction in the mechanism when the slide is pulled back with the striker body grinding against something it's never supposed to come into contact with. Long story short, this could have led to a much more serious failure, like potentially a full-auto runaway if that thing separated fully from the striker body... so I'm glad it broke without damaging any other part of the gun... or me. :v:[/QUOTE]
You should look inside the slide and the sear to see if there are any other signs of excessive wear.
I've been in and out with a flashlight and there's a single little chip on the inside edge of the firing pin port and some finish wear where the striker had been rubbing but no compromising damage. Not sure what tripped the striker to fail this way, it looks like it was made in two separate pieces and it's just separated over time.
[QUOTE=Grenadiac;51969080]I've been in and out with a flashlight and there's a single little chip on the inside edge of the firing pin port and some finish wear where the striker had been rubbing but no compromising damage. Not sure what tripped the striker to fail this way, it looks like it was made in two separate pieces and it's just separated over time.[/QUOTE]
It's a striker-fired pistol from what, the '30s? '40s?
Not entirely surprising. Metallurgy and manufacturing techniques weren't quite as developed back then.
Not quite that old. The seller was adamant that it was made in 1968 but I'm not certain as to how he knew that for certain. I have read these guns are "cheaply made, zinc alloy, die cast" but only in reference to later serial numbered examples from the 70s and 80s which were branded Iver Johnson and some other brand I forgot. This one doesn't appear to tick any of those boxes.
If I had to guess I'd say it's more like a '66 or '67 since the SN is so low. The Erma guns were banned from import in late 1968 so they were subsequently manufactured in the US, which to me would explain the quality difference especially if Iver fucking Johnson was making them.
It's old, though, I know that for sure.
e: Actually just found the stamp with the 1968 date of manufacture, a "68" inside of a shield.
[QUOTE=Cyke Lon bee;51967264]Do you have a DAO setup or something? My USP40 doesnt have this issue. Might be worth it to take it to a smith first to look at it before dropping the money for a trigger.
Either way a trigger upgrade is never a bad thing.[/QUOTE]
It's DA/SA, the V1 variant from 2000. I love it a lot but the trigger pisses me off. I probably should find a smith that can poke around and figure out if it's possible to repair. I'll need to find a suitable smith either way because disassembly of the trigger mechanism for a USP is a horrifyingly complicated process as I've heard.
Hmmmmm, if I wanted to cut down a shotgun stock to a pistol grip, I wouldnt be making an SBS or AOW, as long as the barrel stayed >18" and the overall length stayed >26", right?
[QUOTE=Birdman101;51971920]Hmmmmm, if I wanted to cut down a shotgun stock to a pistol grip, I wouldnt be making an SBS or AOW, as long as the barrel stayed >18" and the overall length stayed >26", right?[/QUOTE]
Right.
[editline]17th March 2017[/editline]
I mean I wouldnt do that since pistol grip shotguns are basically unusable.
Well, I figured since it would be neigh impossible to find a super comanche, I might stop by the LGS, pick up a youth .410 break action, and cut it down, and get a cheaper, bigger, uglier super comanche that cant shoot 45LC.
Id never bubba a gun that was worth something otherwise.
So since the shockwave isn't a SBS and since the black aces DT line of "firearms" fits in the same category putting a sig brace on a shockwave (or any 14" bl 26"OAL pistol grip only shotgun) is kosher right? or does the black aces DT fit into some other bassackwards ATF loophole?
[QUOTE=EliteSuperS;51965127]Have another inept shooting range instructor:
[video=youtube;kuqANKDAqxA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kuqANKDAqxA[/video][/QUOTE]
One last comment on this...This guy is very very lucky to be alive.
It's a common thing where people who get startled when firing a revolver, that from the recoil they instinctively squeeze their fingers around the gun, including the trigger enough to fire off a second round. This is a thing.
[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MG2qd_9pfSY[/media]
As I said. This inept instructor is very lucky to be alive.
[QUOTE=PandaJuggernaut;51973185]So since the shockwave isn't a SBS and since the black aces DT line of "firearms" fits in the same category putting a sig brace on a shockwave (or any 14" bl 26"OAL pistol grip only shotgun) is kosher right? or does the black aces DT fit into some other bassackwards ATF loophole?[/QUOTE]
Wait, 14"? I thought barrells had to be over 18" for shotguns?
Shotguns are weird in terms of the ATF and it all boils down to what the naked receiver is used for. It all hinges on what the factory or the very first assembly of the shotgun to determine what classification it will have. In the eyes of the ATF, once a type of firearm, always that type of firearm. This is dumb but it's what makes shotguns the true chaos firearm of today. This is why buying a factory receiver with no parts on it is important. So in the case of the shotgun, it must meet the barrel requirement and OAL length to avoid the SBS or AOW tax. From here you have 4 options to build out your shotgun:
1) Make an AOW like the Serbu Super Shorty
2) Make an SBS with a barrel less than 18 inches and a stock
3) Make a typical civilian shotgun by meeting the barrel length and OAL requirements
4) Make a shotgun with a barrel less than 18 inches but meet the OAL requirement
Option 4 is what makes these new shotguns possible. Now the manufacturers have gotten savvy and created a new firearm that the ATF never thought would appear on the market. And as such, the ATF at the time did not have a classification for these guns so they created he "Firearm" category.
It's legal and doesn't require a tax stamp, but it's sitting in a gray area that can be easily changed like the arm braces had. So if you are considering one, be ready to either pony up for paperwork, or convert it to a standard shotgun.
What a royal clusterfuck
Im gonna look around some shops today and try to find a dirtnasty little 410, then if i decide to cut it down, ill keet the bbl length and oal length kosher. Imo once youve got a arrel over 10" long, it might as well be 18", because its already too large to be convenient.
I've noticed that my S&W MP 9 Compact jams far more than is normal -- about once per magazine I'll have to take action in order to fire again, which as far as I'm aware is not a reasonable thing.
I'll probably be getting a different gun. Not because Cyke "I make fun of the holocaust" Lon Bee demanded I do so, but because I actually experienced a flaw in my firearm, which is actual evidence and reason.
[QUOTE=geel9;51975142]I've noticed that my S&W MP 9 Compact jams far more than is normal -- about once per magazine I'll have to take action in order to fire again, which as far as I'm aware is not a reasonable thing.
I'll probably be getting a different gun. Not because Cyke "I make fun of the holocaust" Lon Bee demanded I do so, but because I actually experienced a flaw in my firearm, which is actual evidence and reason.[/QUOTE]
Out of curiosity, are you getting stovepipes or failure to feeds a lot? I get this a ton of the time shooting 9's because I'm more used to punchy rounds and let the gun recoil more than it should, so it winds up short-cycling.
[QUOTE=geel9;51975142]I've noticed that my S&W MP 9 Compact jams far more than is normal -- about once per magazine I'll have to take action in order to fire again, which as far as I'm aware is not a reasonable thing.
I'll probably be getting a different gun. Not because Cyke "I make fun of the holocaust" Lon Bee demanded I do so, but because I actually experienced a flaw in my firearm, which is actual evidence and reason.[/QUOTE]
Did you get it new or used? If it was new, give it atleast 200 rounds to break in.
Also yea make sure you arent limp-wristing it.
[QUOTE=Sonador;51975173]Out of curiosity, are you getting stovepipes or failure to feeds a lot? I get this a ton of the time shooting 9's because I'm more used to punchy rounds and let the gun recoil more than it should, so it winds up short-cycling.[/QUOTE]
There are a few issues I'm experiencing. There have been a few cases where the shell casing doesn't properly eject and gets stuck in the ejection port. Additionally, sometimes the next bullet being chambered gets fed in at a wrong angle and I have to rechamber it and eject the round to feed the next one in. Finally, sometimes after firing the entire slide will be stuck in an open position and I'll have to hit it forward with my palm to make it shut and load the next round.
[QUOTE=Birdman101;51975184]Did you get it new or used? If it was new, give it atleast 200 rounds to break in.
Also yea make sure you arent limp-wristing it.[/QUOTE]
It's new and I agree I should give it some more rounds. I'll admit my relative inexperience with handguns, but I would imagine I'm maybe "limp-wristing" it; it seems difficult, however, because I'm specifically trying to prevent myself from "bracing" for the recoil, which I know messes up shots. How do you simultaneously maintain the firm grip necessary without doing that?
[QUOTE=geel9;51975194]info[/QUOTE]
Maintain a firm, even grip on the firearm and exhale as you pull the trigger slowly. Don't tighten up as you pull. You'll feel the 'wall' where the striker or hammer is ready to snap forward as a slight increase in resistance to you drawing the trigger back; continue applying steady pressure until the weapon fires. Let it surprise you. Your grip should remain firm and even, resist the urge to make the trigger pull a snap instead of a pull as well as bearing down tighter on the firearm.
When the gun fires and the slide cycles, hold the trigger back. Slowly advance the trigger forward until you hear and feel a click. That's your reset. If you resume applying pressure to the trigger, it will fire again. While doing this, watch what the gun does. If it's still stovepiping and FTFing, you need a more firm grip.
Check your grip, too, there should be no grip of the firearm showing between your palms while you're aiming.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/0XVzklm.jpg[/t]
Practice that ad inifinitum, and you'll go from being surprised to knowing exactly when the weapon will fire without having to mash the trigger or allow yourself to subconsiously 'anticipate' the gun going off. Your pulls will slowly get faster and more natural.
I've experienced both stovepiping (failure to eject) and failure to feed (round not chambering correctly) but never a stuck back slide when limpwritsing. Check to ensure the gun's oiled properly and if it continues, someone else here might be able to weigh in on if that's an operator issue or if the weapon needs to be serviced.
Has anyone else had problems with A-Zoom snapcaps? Their .25 caps aren't functioning even close to correctly in the Erma, and this time I'm sure it's not the gun. The rims are a bit larger in diameter and thinner than they're supposed to be and they occasionally rim-lock in the magazine, the extractor lets go of the rim too soon because the rims are too thin, and since they're wider than the case the last round always snags on the magazine follower.
I recall similar issues with their .30 Mauser snapcaps and my C96, but everyone always gives these things glowing reviews. What's the deal?
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