This gun is about as factory as it can get. Heavy DA pull and a stiff SA pull. Not going to have a trigger job done to it though. I don't want to have the case hardening removed from the engagement surfaces.
I'm probably going to put a few cylinders of standard .38spl through it just to see its accuracy.
The wise and powerful Australian government has decided to move lever-action shotguns over 5 rounds from Cat A (the least restrictive category) to Cat D which is the same category AR15s and the like are in. The government has declared that "people who need them" will still be able to get them never mind the fact that if you are one of the small few who have a Cat D you wouldn't buy a lever shotgun when you can buy an AR15 or a semi-automatic shotgun.
Under 5 rounds lever-action shotguns are going into Cat B which is the most restrictive category that regular shooters can get. Pump-action shotguns and semi-22s are still Cat C and unavailable.
[QUOTE=download;51502236]The wise and powerful Australian government has decided to move lever-action shotguns over 5 rounds from Cat A (the least restrictive category) to Cat D which is the same category AR15s and the like are in. The government has declared that "people who need them" will still be able to get them never mind the fact that if you are one of the small few who have a Cat D you wouldn't buy a lever shotgun when you can buy an AR15 or a semi-automatic shotgun.
Under 5 rounds lever-action shotguns are going into Cat B which is the most restrictive category that regular shooters can get. Pump-action shotguns and semi-22s are still Cat C and unavailable.[/QUOTE]
Seriously? [I]All[/I] 5-round levers? I thought this was only applying to the Adler.
What about Adlers (and its many spinoffs) that have been modified to hold over 5?
[QUOTE=TechnoSandwic;51502416]Seriously? [I]All[/I] 5-round levers? I thought this was only applying to the Adler.
What about Adlers (and its many spinoffs) that have been modified to hold over 5?[/QUOTE]
Why wouldn't the government use the opportunity to fuck every gun owner in the ass?
[QUOTE=download;51502236]The wise and powerful Australian government has decided to move lever-action shotguns over 5 rounds from Cat A (the least restrictive category) to Cat D which is the same category AR15s and the like are in. The government has declared that "people who need them" will still be able to get them never mind the fact that if you are one of the small few who have a Cat D you wouldn't buy a lever shotgun when you can buy an AR15 or a semi-automatic shotgun.
Under 5 rounds lever-action shotguns are going into Cat B which is the most restrictive category that regular shooters can get. Pump-action shotguns and semi-22s are still Cat C and unavailable.[/QUOTE]
Man, fuck that shit.
So all those Chiappa Shotguns need to get pinned.
Britbong here (how we have better shotgun laws than aussies i will never understand)
Are Schimdt Rubins any good?
[QUOTE=AutismoPiggo;51502995]Britbong here (how we have better shotgun laws than aussies i will never understand)
Are Schimdt Rubins any good?[/QUOTE]
Those are some of the best surplus rifles you can get as long as you can find the ammo for a good price. Accurate, great for both target shooting and hunting with it's fine tuned iron sights (for a military rifle).
[QUOTE=MAC21500;51501164]BHO AK47 mags[/QUOTE]
what is the point of bho ak mags, it would seem that it would hold open, but then when you remove the mag to insert another, the bolt would go forward and you would have to rechamber anyways
[QUOTE=Zombinie;51503402]what is the point of bho ak mags, it would seem that it would hold open, but then when you remove the mag to insert another, the bolt would go forward and you would have to rechamber anyways[/QUOTE]
So is there no way to lock the bolt open on an AK?
[QUOTE=S31-Syntax;51503419]So is there no way to lock the bolt open on an AK?[/QUOTE]
The only way to lock an AK bolt open is to use one of the aftermarket safety levers that has a charging handle notch in it. You need 3 hands to use it though.
[QUOTE=Zombinie;51486525]Lightning what?
[t]http://firearmdeals.com/Dons/LL08122007_%20001.jpg[/t]
No sir this is a vintage bottle opener, I collect bottle openers.[/QUOTE]
Stupid question but, what is that?
[QUOTE=jgerm529;51503934]Stupid question but, what is that?[/QUOTE]
Poor man's full auto device,the Lightening Link.
Purely educational question: Considering the operational style of the STEN, what exactly keeps it from being full auto by default?
[QUOTE=S31-Syntax;51504068]Purely educational question: Considering the operational style of the STEN, what exactly keeps it from being full auto by default?[/QUOTE]
Depending on the variant a sear. The most basic variations are full auto only, though it has a slow enough rate of fire that you can do single shots with a quick pull and release of the trigger.
[QUOTE=S31-Syntax;51504068]Purely educational question: Considering the operational style of the STEN, what exactly keeps it from being full auto by default?[/QUOTE]
ATF-mandated conversion to closed-bolt operation.
Just got the Mauser. It's clearly been reblued over minor pitting scattered across the whole thing, but mechanically it's in great condition, with the hammer and lock frame shiny and pristine, and it even has some very pretty nitre bluing (second pic).
I also got a stock earlier this week- the seller claimed it to be original, but it was in such awful condition it was impossible to tell, so I filled in gaps, repaired a substantial crack across the neck, and stained and refinished it. The ATF issued a NFA exception for these guns, making it legal to attach the stock without a tax stamp as long as the stock is an original or close recreation of an original.
I had to get a repro holster/harness, of course, and then discovered in the process of trying to wear in the leather to make it look a little less shitty that the dye used is extremely vulnerable to rubbing alcohol. Oops. I might just splurge on an original at some point but this will work fine for now.
Now I'm just waiting on replacement springs and stripper clips.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/agknCcL.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/9cqer2g.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/QdMNZQu.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/t8E0ubH.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/uIk3O0D.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=Lone_Star94;51503486]The only way to lock an AK bolt open is to use one of the aftermarket safety levers that has a charging handle notch in it. You need 3 hands to use it though.[/QUOTE]
Incorrect, many Saigas had a manual bolt hold open lever that came down next to the right side of the trigger. Most were scrapped when converted.
[t]http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg134/imarangemaster/BHO1.jpg[/t]
[editline]9th December 2016[/editline]
[QUOTE=Zombinie;51503402]what is the point of bho ak mags, it would seem that it would hold open, but then when you remove the mag to insert another, the bolt would go forward and you would have to rechamber anyways[/QUOTE]
The point is with semi auto AKs that you know you're empty, and avoid "Dead Man's Click"; on full auto AKs, they just run dry then reload. Or at least most of the scrubs using them do.
The Yugo BHO mags aren't to facilitate an AR-style reload, they're there so you know when you're out of ammo, and know whether you need to reload or clear a jam. They're pretty handy to have because you can very clearly feel a difference when the bolt locks open, and know you're out without needing to check.
Edit: Beat me to it, Mac.
Now a new question has arisen since buying this S&W. How do you remove cylinder burns without removing the bluing?
Well I had an unexpected $450 expense today so I think this lower is going to wait until next paycheck...
[QUOTE=Lone_Star94;51506002]Now a new question has arisen since buying this S&W. How do you remove cylinder burns without removing the bluing?[/QUOTE]
Your choice of solvent and a brass brush (like a bore brush). Brass brushes won't hurt the bluing no matter how hard you scrub.
Gorgeous Broomhandle. It's almost as pretty as mine. :>
As for the stock, you can tell by looking if it's original or not. The button is a good indicator of authenticity. Not sure how to describe it but it's something in the workmanship. All the original German stocks have hardware that's just as nicely fitted as the guns themselves. The insides of the German stocks are also smooth and very nicely carved, whereas the Chinese knockoffs are pretty crude all around.
Get yourself a lanyard ring. Mine didn't come with one (the old feller I got it from removed it because it annoyed him) so I put a hand grenade ring on it. :v:
[QUOTE=catbarf;51505587]Just got the Mauser. It's clearly been reblued over minor pitting scattered across the whole thing, but mechanically it's in great condition, with the hammer and lock frame shiny and pristine, and it even has some very pretty nitre bluing (second pic).
I also got a stock earlier this week- the seller claimed it to be original, but it was in such awful condition it was impossible to tell, so I filled in gaps, repaired a substantial crack across the neck, and stained and refinished it. The ATF issued a NFA exception for these guns, making it legal to attach the stock without a tax stamp as long as the stock is an original or close recreation of an original.
I had to get a repro holster/harness, of course, and then discovered in the process of trying to wear in the leather to make it look a little less shitty that the dye used is extremely vulnerable to rubbing alcohol. Oops. I might just splurge on an original at some point but this will work fine for now.
Now I'm just waiting on replacement springs and stripper clips.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/9cqer2g.jpg[/t]
[/QUOTE]
That fucking tangent site lmao. Is 7.63 even capable of reaching out to 800 meters?
Silly pre-WW1 Europeans.
The sight goes out to 1000m actually.
I think if you braced the pistol you could realistically land bullets near the target at that range on a nice day. I don't know if 7.63 retains a meaningful amount of energy at that point, though. Keep in mind that at 1000 meters the pistol is basically pointing up at 45 degrees. I have no idea how to use sights at that angle, but soldiers received volley fire training so they would have.
Generally I consider them to be very optimistic sights but Mauser's engineers must have had some idea of what they were doing and a 7.63 C96 in good shape is a very accurate pistol even by today's standards.
[QUOTE=Grenadiac;51508525]I think if you braced the pistol you could realistically land bullets near the target at that range on a nice day. I don't know if 7.63 retains a meaningful amount of energy at that point, though. Keep in mind that at 1000 meters the pistol is basically pointing up at 45 degrees. I have no idea how to use sights at that angle, but soldiers received volley fire training so they would have.
Generally I consider them to be very optimistic sights but Mauser's engineers must have had some idea of what they were doing and a 7.63 C96 in good shape is a very accurate pistol even by today's standards.[/QUOTE]
No, it was entirely normal to have sights during WWI that went out to 1000 meters for weapons and soldiers that had zero chance of ever successfully landing a shot at that range. It is a recurring theme for WWI weapons on forgotten weapons.
Like I said, it's for volley fire, which I shouldn't have associated with accuracy, because it's really spitballing. Landing bullets near a target 1000 meters away isn't infeasible with a C96 (but they'll never go to point of aim), I just don't know how much damage 7.63 will do at that point even if you should hit the target by freak chance. It's a WW1 thing, yeah, more for suppressing the enemy and keeping them from leaving their trenches than it is for hitting a specific target.
Reason I mentioned Mauser's engineers must have had a reason to believe it could do it is other pistols of that period don't have volley sights (or adjustable sights at all for the most part).
I've discovered a couple of things in my research about the gun regarding the sights.
1. 7.63 Mauser pushes 1500fps out the muzzle, substantially faster than 9mm, and it retains velocity better over range. Getting the bullet out to 1000m is doable. Note that the 9mm variants only had sights adjustable to 500m.
2. The gun was, obviously, equipped with a shoulder stock, which increases its usable range. From prone, you could probably brace it well enough to put rounds on an area target, like an infantry company in open terrain, at 1000m.
3. German machine gun crews were issued with C96s and Artillery Lugers (Langepistole 08) with stocks as makeshift carbines, to provide suppressing fire for the gun crew while the gun was out of action (changing barrel, refilling water jacket, clearing a jam, etc). Just being able to put a high volume of fire in the vicinity of the target, enough to make them keep their heads down, would be sufficient.
4. It's speculated, although I haven't read any confirmation, that the sight gradation was a form of marketing. If your pistol has sights going out to 1000m, after all, [I]clearly[/I] it will have no trouble killing a man at 200m.
So, I don't think the gun would ever be capable of engaging a point target at that range, but I think in the context of late-19th-century/early-20th-century warfare there was legitimate utility to sights that go out that far. And in any case, the decision to include such long-range sights may have had nothing to do with practicality in the first place.
Managed to boil most of the cosmoline out of the bolt, carrier, recoil spring assemblies, trigger assembly, and magazine. Now I just have to get the lower receiver, barrel, and stock clean. If I can get it done, put back together, and oiled, I might be able to take it out to partlow tomorrow and test it out with my father.
I got the rear aperture sight in the mail this week, still waiting on those 35rd magazines, though.
Still trying to wrestle the upper handguard apart from the gas tube.
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