[QUOTE=CoilingTesla;51508743]Managed to boil most of the cosmoline out of the bolt, carrier, recoil spring assemblies, trigger assembly, and magazine. [/QUOTE]
I'm not sure how familiar you are with the specifics of the SKS design, but be sure to clean out the firing pin channel thoroughly and get the firing pin itself totally clean. Any gunk in the channel can cause the free-float firing pin to seize forward and make the gun slam-fire full-auto.
[QUOTE=catbarf;51508692]I've discovered a couple of things in my research about the gun regarding the sights.
1. 7.63 Mauser pushes 1500fps out the muzzle, substantially faster than 9mm, and it retains velocity better over range. Getting the bullet out to 1000m is doable. Note that the 9mm variants only had sights adjustable to 500m.
2. The gun was, obviously, equipped with a shoulder stock, which increases its usable range. From prone, you could probably brace it well enough to put rounds on an area target, like an infantry company in open terrain, at 1000m.
3. German machine gun crews were issued with C96s and Artillery Lugers (Langepistole 08) with stocks as makeshift carbines, to provide suppressing fire for the gun crew while the gun was out of action (changing barrel, refilling water jacket, clearing a jam, etc). Just being able to put a high volume of fire in the vicinity of the target, enough to make them keep their heads down, would be sufficient.
4. It's speculated, although I haven't read any confirmation, that the sight gradation was a form of marketing. If your pistol has sights going out to 1000m, after all, [I]clearly[/I] it will have no trouble killing a man at 200m.
So, I don't think the gun would ever be capable of engaging a point target at that range, but I think in the context of late-19th-century/early-20th-century warfare there was legitimate utility to sights that go out that far. And in any case, the decision to include such long-range sights may have had nothing to do with practicality in the first place.[/QUOTE]
I haven't heard phrases like point target and area target since I was still in the Marines. That does remind me however that we once did a range where we fired our M240B's from defilade. That was pretty cool and it worked well too.
[QUOTE=catbarf;51508987]I'm not sure how familiar you are with the specifics of the SKS design, but be sure to clean out the firing pin channel thoroughly and get the firing pin itself totally clean. Any gunk in the channel can cause the free-float firing pin to seize forward and make the gun slam-fire full-auto.[/QUOTE]
Should I disassemble the bolt and check the contact surfaces of the firing pin inside the channel to make sure? I made sure while boiling it thoroughly that the firing pin moves freely, no stickiness, it sounds and feels right.
Does the wood part of the gas tube/upper handguard assembly come loose? I can't tell if its stuck from cosmoline or it just can't be removed.
Zastava M59/66, btw.
[QUOTE=CoilingTesla;51509041]Should I disassemble the bolt and check the contact surfaces of the firing pin inside the channel to make sure? I made sure while boiling it thoroughly that the firing pin moves freely, no stickiness, it sounds and feels right.[/QUOTE]
You can disassemble the bolt if you want to be really sure, but it is kind of a pain in the ass. If you've thoroughly boiled it and the firing pin moves freely with no stickiness, I'd say you can probably give it a shot of oil and call it a day.
[QUOTE=CoilingTesla;51509041]Does the wood part of the gas tube/upper handguard assembly come loose? I can't tell if its stuck from cosmoline or it just can't be removed.[/QUOTE]
Yes, it does come off. There's a pin securing the rear keeper on the gas tube. It might be hard to remove since they're usually peened to keep them in place, but if you give it a solid whack with a punch and mallet it should come out and then you can pull the keeper off followed by the wood.
[QUOTE=CoilingTesla;51509041]Zastava M59/66, btw.[/QUOTE]
Good choice. My brother has a Zastava SKS and I have a Zastava AK, and they're both very nicely made. I'm resisting the urge to shout 'RIFLE IS FINE' at your extended magazine, but you do you and when it proves unreliable you can always stick the Simonov-approved ten-rounder back on :v:
How do I git gud with iron sights past 100 meters?
[QUOTE=catbarf;51509232]You can disassemble the bolt if you want to be really sure, but it is kind of a pain in the ass. If you've thoroughly boiled it and the firing pin moves freely with no stickiness, I'd say you can probably give it a shot of oil and call it a day.
Yes, it does come off. There's a pin securing the rear keeper on the gas tube. It might be hard to remove since they're usually peened to keep them in place, but if you give it a solid whack with a punch and mallet it should come out and then you can pull the keeper off followed by the wood.
Good choice. My brother has a Zastava SKS and I have a Zastava AK, and they're both very nicely made. I'm resisting the urge to shout 'RIFLE IS FINE' at your extended magazine, but you do you and when it proves unreliable you can always stick the Simonov-approved ten-rounder back on :v:[/QUOTE]
Would it hurt to just boil the whole upper handguard, wood, gas tube, and all? I don't have the best tooling atm.
The magazines are just for fun. I chose those for the integrated release lever, not how they look.
[QUOTE=CoilingTesla;51509309]Would it hurt to just boil the whole upper handguard, wood, gas tube, and all? I don't have the best tooling atm.
The magazines are just for fun. I chose those for the integrated release lever, not how they look.[/QUOTE]
For wood, you either bake it out, use a hot gun/hair dryer, or leave it in the sun in a black garbage bag if it's warm out (70* or up).
You risk warping and cracking the wood from absorbing water if you boil it. Just pour hot water through the tube and be done with it.
[editline]10th December 2016[/editline]
[QUOTE=catbarf;51506251]Your choice of solvent and a brass brush (like a bore brush). Brass brushes won't hurt the bluing no matter how hard you scrub.[/QUOTE]
Tried a brass brush, took the rest of the cylinder face off, so I'm gonna get a bottle of cold blue. Can't win 'em every time.
[QUOTE=camaroni;51509264]How do I git gud with iron sights past 100 meters?[/QUOTE]
Practice
[QUOTE=camaroni;51509264]How do I git gud with iron sights past 100 meters?[/QUOTE]
You need the right perks. Just level up a few more time and you'll get there.
The range I'm shooting at bans FMJ, JHP, and JSP, but allows TMJ. Why do so many clubs in this province have such dumb rules?
What the hell kind of range bans FMJ? That's like 99% of target ammo?
[QUOTE=DaCommie1;51513046]The range I'm shooting at bans FMJ, JHP, and JSP, but allows TMJ. Why do so many clubs in this province have such dumb rules?[/QUOTE]
there was a 3 gun course in KY I used to go to til they decided it was a good idea to require TMJ's for pistols that was about the time I said fuck that I'm not spending more money to shoot 3 gun cause you guys wanna negligibly cut down on lead (FMJ for rifles was fine)
Now that's some pant on head retarded decisions on the range's part. If they truly want to cut back on lead, they would requires the pistol stages to be done with airsoft. Or just give up on the sport altogether.
yeah it wasn't the smartest decision for sure. not to mention I shoot HOT 9mm for 3 gun (think 9mm major loads) which has a tendency to shred the TMJ's and tumble out of the barrel
Sighted in my new AR. I will be buying a new trigger on Boxing Day 100%. This one's like 6-8lbs and feels like shit. I legitimately cannot get my gun to be any more accurate because I can't pull the trigger properly.
Also my .380 is going to have to go back to Browning. 8 failures in 100 rounds is unacceptable.
[editline]11th December 2016[/editline]
[QUOTE=Lone_Star94;51513468]Now that's some pant on head retarded decisions on the range's part. If they truly want to cut back on lead, they would requires the pistol stages to be done with airsoft. Or just give up on the sport altogether.[/QUOTE]
I don't even think it's about that, since they let you shoot pure lead bullets. All I can think of is they're being overly paranoid about their backstop and seem to think that like 1/2mm extra copper surrounding the lead core on an FMJ will cause more damage than the thin copper dip of a TMJ.
Funnily enough they seemingly had no rule about pure copper, so I guess that would be okay.
[QUOTE=camaroni;51509264]How do I git gud with iron sights past 100 meters?[/QUOTE]
Tighten up on your fundamentals. Steady position, consistent sight alignment, breath control and good trigger squeeze.
Sight alignment and trigger squeeze are the big ones, imo. I'm having to really learn the former with my PTR since since the Army took the shortcut of telling me to touch my nose to my M4's charging handle :v:
[QUOTE=Psychokitten;51514554]Tighten up on your fundamentals. Steady position, consistent sight alignment, breath control and good trigger squeeze.
Sight alignment and trigger squeeze are the big ones, imo. I'm having to really learn the former with my PTR since since the Army took the shortcut of telling me to touch my nose to my M4's charging handle :v:[/QUOTE]
The PTR trigger isn't that bad per se. It's like firing at DA revolver. Heavy, but doable. It's practice you need or you can do what Carl does on Forgotten Weapons and use a lot more finger on the trigger to get better trigger control.
[QUOTE=Lone_Star94;51515306]The PTR trigger isn't that bad per se. It's like firing at DA revolver. Heavy, but doable. It's practice you need or you can do what Carl does on Forgotten Weapons and use a lot more finger on the trigger to get better trigger control.[/QUOTE]
I was referring more to my wildly inconsistent cheek-weld, but I'll definitely give that a try.
[QUOTE=Psychokitten;51515331]I was referring more to my wildly inconsistent cheek-weld, but I'll definitely give that a try.[/QUOTE]
I can see your issue since you were trained to physically put for face into something that gave you a repeatable picture. Try marking the stock with electrical tape so that the correct distance is felt by your cheek.
[QUOTE=DaCommie1;51514255]Sighted in my new AR. I will be buying a new trigger on Boxing Day 100%. This one's like 6-8lbs and feels like shit. I legitimately cannot get my gun to be any more accurate because I can't pull the trigger properly.
Also my .380 is going to have to go back to Browning. 8 failures in 100 rounds is unacceptable.
[editline]11th December 2016[/editline]
I don't even think it's about that, since they let you shoot pure lead bullets. All I can think of is they're being overly paranoid about their backstop and seem to think that like 1/2mm extra copper surrounding the lead core on an FMJ will cause more damage than the thin copper dip of a TMJ.
Funnily enough they seemingly had no rule about pure copper, so I guess that would be okay.[/QUOTE]
if the 1/2mm more of copper surrounding a TMJ is all that's stopping em from having a broken backstop they have more problems than just silly rules......
[QUOTE=Lone_Star94;51515375]I can see your issue since you were trained to physically put for face into something that gave you a repeatable picture. Try marking the stock with electrical tape so that the correct distance is felt by your cheek.[/QUOTE]
Already done. I just need to order a punch set, replacement rollers and a resupply of ammo.
Oh, btw. The electrical tape? It's a small patch on the hump of the stock, near where it meets the receiver. I touch my nose to it.
:v:
Made a discovery a few days ago, that the hammer loop/holster/whatever it's called on a pair of carpenter jeans makes a decent gun holster for when doing non-shooting things at a range. It works great, I've tested it a bit and as long as it's a full size pistol, it's not likely to fall out. I know I'm not the first to discover this, but I haven't exactly found anyone else that mentioned this anywhere in the first 10 pages of a google search.
Also I have a serious rust issue on an old 1960s Browning lever action .22LR. I know about using fine dry steel wool to get the rust off, but how am I gonna repair the finish? Same thing for my lightly surface rusted Ruger M77, I took the rust off but have no clue where to go from here.
[QUOTE=zombini;51516504]Made a discovery a few days ago, that the hammer loop/holster/whatever it's called on a pair of carpenter jeans makes a decent gun holster for when doing non-shooting things at a range. It works great, I've tested it a bit and as long as it's a full size pistol, it's not likely to fall out. I know I'm not the first to discover this, but I haven't exactly found anyone else that mentioned this anywhere in the first 10 pages of a google search.
Also I have a serious rust issue on an old 1960s Browning lever action .22LR. I know about using fine dry steel wool to get the rust off, but how am I gonna repair the finish? Same thing for my lightly surface rusted Ruger M77, I took the rust off but have no clue where to go from here.[/QUOTE]
Why did you use dry steel wool? That's still asking to just scuff the surface. Should have used CLP or some other gun oil to at least make a bit of a buffer between the wool and the finish.
If you want it done right you'd have to reblue it. You could cold blue it yourself but that's going to give you varied results at best.
I'd say wait till most of the finish is gone before you get it reblued. If you get it reblued now, the shop will strip the all of the original finish to apply a new finish.
I put a S&W M&P9 on layaway back in August, didn't get my papers until Friday, gonna pick it up tomorrow after I called the store today and asked to make sure they hadn't sold it. It's used, but it comes with a threaded barrel, red dot mounted on it and a suppressor. This shit's gonna be tight!
[QUOTE=Campin Carl;51518654]I put a S&W M&P9 on layaway back in August, didn't get my papers until Friday, gonna pick it up tomorrow after I called the store today and asked to make sure they hadn't sold it. It's used, but it comes with a threaded barrel, red dot mounted on it and a suppressor. This shit's gonna be tight![/QUOTE]
God I wish suppressors were like that here. It'd make my eventual goal of a 9" .300 blackout upper and suppressor so much more affordable.
[QUOTE=Campin Carl;51518654]I put a S&W M&P9 on layaway back in August, didn't get my papers until Friday, gonna pick it up tomorrow after I called the store today and asked to make sure they hadn't sold it. It's used, but it comes with a threaded barrel, red dot mounted on it and a suppressor. This shit's gonna be tight![/QUOTE]
I thought you couldn't get pistol suppressors in Norwegia? I thought you were only allowed them on rifles.
[QUOTE=DaCommie1;51514255]Sighted in my new AR. I will be buying a new trigger on Boxing Day 100%. This one's like 6-8lbs and feels like shit. I legitimately cannot get my gun to be any more accurate because I can't pull the trigger properly.
Also my .380 is going to have to go back to Browning. 8 failures in 100 rounds is unacceptable.
[editline]11th December 2016[/editline]
I don't even think it's about that, since they let you shoot pure lead bullets. All I can think of is they're being overly paranoid about their backstop and seem to think that like 1/2mm extra copper surrounding the lead core on an FMJ will cause more damage than the thin copper dip of a TMJ.
Funnily enough they seemingly had no rule about pure copper, so I guess that would be okay.[/QUOTE]
My local indoor range doesn't allow FMJ ammo either, since it wears the backstop a lot faster apparently.
[QUOTE=Campin Carl;51518654]I put a S&W M&P9 on layaway back in August, didn't get my papers until Friday, gonna pick it up tomorrow after I called the store today and asked to make sure they hadn't sold it. It's used, but it comes with a threaded barrel, red dot mounted on it and a suppressor. This shit's gonna be tight![/QUOTE]
Cool, now go buy an Apex trigger, because stock M&P triggers are the worst...
[QUOTE=DaCommie1;51519010]I thought you couldn't get pistol suppressors in Norwegia? I thought you were only allowed them on rifles.[/QUOTE]
Nah, pistols are the only guns we have suppressor rules on. and those rules are that of the gun weighs more than 1.4kg, can mount a stock, or some other specified criterias, then you can't have threads for a suppressor- Other than that, you can put suppressors on handguns, shotguns and rifles to your hearts content.
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