My first ever painting experience c:
well not first ever, I tried the paint on some small stuff before I painted the rims
ps fixed
lol at $500 pump
lol when tiny oring fixes it
gonna try a new Throttle body gasket and see if it fix my problem
So I have a '73 4-bolt main 350 block to build for the Corvette, going for forced induction.
Will be running low boost, single turbo, through a jetted up Holley double pumper.
So this means I'll be fixing the Civic to drive in the meantime, it's in the shop right now (finally) after jumping time on me a couple weeks ago. It bent all of the intake valves, I think. Will be slapping on a budget head from Jap and it'll return to DD duty.
Oh god. Plumbing nightmare putting one turbo on a Vee. Twin turbos > single turbos on vees just on packaging alone. Plus you can use smaller ones for the same boost with less lag.
I highly suggest fuel injection if you're going to turbo it though.
I'd run twins if I could afford to build up a motor for it, I'm going to run one big turbo for now unless I can pick up a couple matching snails for cheap, them I'll grab some twin manifolds. I don't want a full kit like that -- I like piecing together my own setup, I can get the bits I like easier that way and cheaper.
Charge piping will be made by me and my dad, we're pretty good at bending tubing. He's been building cages and random things for years, and I've helped him build cages for ~20+ round track cars.
It's going to be a great project. I can't wait.
[QUOTE=Ldesu;35427398]Front:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/YgwTV.jpg[/t]
[/QUOTE]
I suddenly feel the urge to paint my steelies white.
[QUOTE=Dylan_94;35437113]I suddenly feel the urge to paint my steelies white.[/QUOTE]
I did it because it makes it look a bit rallyish :v:
Also should I get new chrome bolts or paint the bolts that I have black?
It would be nice to have new ones, but black would look better than chrome (in my opinion)
[img]http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/533889_377810038920575_100000747462026_1163211_1072355300_n.jpg[/img]
[editline]5th April 2012[/editline]
Time for fuel economy build
Civic for MPG, Corvette for MPH
I expect no less than 80mpg
[QUOTE=lemon_lover;35446293]I expect no less than 80mpg[/QUOTE]
It's getting way more than that right now
it doesn't use gas at all
Got the tags on my crx, was driving around and was annoyed by valve lash, got home and changed it. Turns out it was knocking :( So I'm trying to buy a d15b 3 stage off some guy and i have the ecu
Changed the oil in the jeep, tagged it, new wipers, patched pipe in where the cat was.
That reminds me, i should probably put something under the jeep to catch the day old oil that is leaking from the engine >.>
rear main seal here i come.
BADASS AS FUCK
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/535bbd5b.jpg[/thumb]
I need a new sproket for the chainsaw in order for it to go but other than that it works fine. After I get it going I might give it a chopper front with some ape hangers, a nice can and some cheesie ram air, then ill ride It to school with a nazi helmet and a skull lower bandana. This bitch is going to be greeeeeasey.
Today I went to the US with my cousin to get wheels for his celica 85' gts 1uz.
US border was funny, he explained to me that all the friends he had that studied in politics and history are now flipping burgers.
Can border was basically: LOL YOU AINT BRINGING GUN WITH YA ? NOW PAY FUCKING TAX ON THOSE WHEELS FAGGOT LOTS OF TAXES
edit: also received my ThrottleBody gasket, gonna install it tomorrow and see how it run
edit2: Fuck it wasn't the TB leaking. Going to wait tuesday to order the intake manifold gasket then wednesday will install it and see how it goes.
Also I think the engine is BHG, it's spouting water down the exhaust, oil is clean, coolant too, no overheating, no overflowing overflow bottle, no waterfall in the heater core, smoke under the oil cap. WHAT THE FUCK
Just bought a jdm d15b with ycp high compression pistons and i think vitara rods, only 2,000 miles- from rebuild
[QUOTE=T3hW1nn3r;35458442]Just bought a jdm d15b with ycp high compression pistons and i think vitara rods, only 2,000 miles- from rebuild[/QUOTE]
How much did you pay for it? Did he have pictures of the internals? Buying "built" D series are kind of shady, I can never trust people without build pics.
Anyways
[img]http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/527625_378564382178474_100000747462026_1164810_210076502_n.jpg[/img]
VTEC-E just kicked in, yo!
I fought it all morning and something simple totally kicked my ass -- the rotor bug in the distributor lost its screw and it kept spinning on the shaft!
The bad thing? I had one laying in the car, brand new. *sigh*
I got it on there, it runs again. It's a little nasty because I had a white lithium grease spray that I pre-lubed the entire head with and used on my ARP studs for re-assembly, since the head had sat for a while in Jap's shed.
D15Z1 head, D16A6 block, ARP head studs, Felpro graphite composite head gasket, stock block and head never shaved, good for 11.95:1 static compression.
It's got ycp's version of p29 pistons and some new stock-replacement looking rods in it, i paid 100 bucks delivered. I'm buying new bearings for it tomorrow, but It's only the block. I'm gonna have to run a b7 gasket on it to keep the compression low enough for 87 because the head has been shaved .010"
Went to the junkyard and got new bumper braces. Finally be able to have my new bumper on and it not be crooked
[QUOTE=T3hW1nn3r;35462146]It's got ycp's version of p29 pistons and some new stock-replacement looking rods in it, i paid 100 bucks delivered. I'm buying new bearings for it tomorrow, but It's only the block. I'm gonna have to run a b7 gasket on it to keep the compression low enough for 87 because the head has been shaved .010"[/QUOTE]
I run 87 in my 11.95:1 D16/D15Z1 combo. But I'm running a pig rich map right now. I plan on leaning it out and stepping up to 91/93 mix later. With your JDM D15B block and P29s, using a thinner MLS head gasket (I use compostie, they seal a thousand times better, and hold just as well), and shaving a JDM D15B head or D16Z6 head .010" you'll only have ~10.75:1 or so, still doable on 87.
A composite head gasket will only drop it ~.3:1, so it's not really changing much at all, but I reccomend doing that anyways -- hit the surface of the block and head with some fine grit sandpaper (Don't BUFF it, just rub it lightly until there are noticeable but fine scratches under close inspection) before you put it on, and you'll have NO problems with seepage. It really allows the graphite composite to seat into the surfaces. It's a bitch to clean up sometimes, but it usually buffs right off when you go to clean it.
If you're running notec, run a PR4 until you can get something chipped, then just run slightly rich and you can keep 87 all day. Even on stock fuel maps you don't really risk too much detonation if you're under 11:1 compression. If you're running VTEC, you'll want something chipped anyways so it won't matter.
High comp D's have been what I've run since I started building D's. I've built one low compression D15Z1 block and it was dog slow sans boost, and we never got around to boosting it so I don't know what would have happened there. But I do know that it was terribly underpowered. Maybe it would have been a monster under boost? Who knows now.
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/e0f3bfe5.jpg[/thumb]
Electric turbo aaaaawwww yeaaah
I'll fit it up better tomorrow, make a propper bracket for it and get it all wired in. It's the fan from a old heat gun, blows pretty nice, I'll see what 15 volts does to it tomorrow MWUAHAHA. I have it loosely rigged up right now so it turns on with a 2 way switch, and when you turn it on a little red light comes on, I need to find a turbo sticker and slap that on.
I can't tell if you're serious.
It's on my sisters beat up pink "Moon Rider" bicycle that I slapped a chainsaw on and named Sally.
You can bet your sweet tits I'm serious
Traded off an abused set of ground controls on completely blown struts without bumpstops for a buddy's set of stock EG struts and springs for my DA in an attempt to start getting it rolling again and tossed them on with a lot of banging, prying and sketchy jack use due to everything under the car being tweaked.
Now I need to find a new header for a b16a swap, replace the oil pan seal and shift linkage so I can figure out how to bust off the crank pulley nut so we can get a new timing belt on it and get it to be able to move under it's own power again.
So far I've bent a nicer breaker bar and hit it with PB blaster and about an hour of an air impact. I had someone tell me to line up a breaker bar just right and use the starter to break it but that sounds a little sketchy and dangerous to me having never done it..
You can't use the starter to break the bolt loose. Your motor spins the wrong way. Welcome to the world of owning a Honda. Using the starter will actually [i]tighten[/i] the bolt, which may be what has happened in the first place if it's that tight. I've run into that before.
Good luck with that bolt. The only way I've ever been able to get them off is a big fucking air impact gun.
Or, in the case of my single bolt flywheel torqued to 50 million foot pounds, 3 guys doing pullups on a 10 foot breaker bar. lul.
That was a story a fellow rotor enthusiast told me and some other guys, i guess the sideways torque was actually lifting half the car off the jack stands and when it broke lose the car slammed down, pretty crazy shit.
But when i took* my flywheel bolt off it was barely more than handtight so wtf.
I just got the new bearings and some plastigauge, I'm going to run a y8 head on it, with a p28. I'd feel better if i used the composite one but I'm also thinking about a z6 head gasket, this shits getting done today.
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