Didn't do much today, but this happened last night down the street from me.
[url]http://www.baynews9.com/content/news/baynews9/news/article.html/content/news/articles/bn9/2012/4/19/oxygen_tanks_spark_m.html[/url]
Picture for ya.
[img]http://www.baynews9.com/content/dam/news/images/2012/04/Mobile%20home%20fire.JPG[/img]
[editline]19th April 2012[/editline]
Moar info.
[url]http://www.tampabay.com/news/publicsafety/fire/man-escapes-as-new-port-richey-mobile-home-erupts-in-flames/1225815[/url]
My aerial is leaking a bit in this harsh rain we've had recently. So i shoved lots of receipts around the gap to absorb the water, until this weekend when i'll re-seal it :v:
[QUOTE=Aetna;35638905]But what about the older vtec, where two camshafts were used? I can't imagine a non-vtec motor of the same displacement making the same amount of power at 5k-redline.[/QUOTE]
Uh. K Series does use two camshafts. And how can you not see a non-vtec motor making the same power? THe only difference here is that the VTEC motor has two lift profiles (low and high) and the VTEC engine has one that is generally between both VTEC profiles, but aftermarket is always closer to just the high profile.
5k redline? I... What? I've never had a Civic with a 5k redline. I push my notec Civic to 7500 every day. The limiter stock was 7200, MPFI ECU stock was 6500 but that was too low. The map I run now is 9000.
A stock valvetrain can hit 8000 with no worries as long as it's not junk and worn out. If a D series non-VTEC has the exact same setup, port size, valve size, and between the two one is VTEC and one is non-VTEC, you'll see the better powerband and near identical power out of the non-VTEC engine. Torque will be flatter, power will arch less.
Variable valve timing is only helpful REALLY for fuel economy. It can add performance but it only helps when you want a seperate cam profile for bottom end, which really doesn't help that much. Who keeps a 9000 RPM race engine under 4-5k for any amount of time?
[img]http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s720x720/539956_10151555675705305_522645304_23572587_509644934_n.jpg[/img]
Starting to look like my car again
[QUOTE=bradley;35641078]Uh. K Series does use two camshafts. And how can you not see a non-vtec motor making the same power? THe only difference here is that the VTEC motor has two lift profiles (low and high) and the VTEC engine has one that is generally between both VTEC profiles, but aftermarket is always closer to just the high profile.
5k redline? I... What? I've never had a Civic with a 5k redline. I push my notec Civic to 7500 every day. The limiter stock was 7200, MPFI ECU stock was 6500 but that was too low. The map I run now is 9000.
A stock valvetrain can hit 8000 with no worries as long as it's not junk and worn out. If a D series non-VTEC has the exact same setup, port size, valve size, and between the two one is VTEC and one is non-VTEC, you'll see the better powerband and near identical power out of the non-VTEC engine. Torque will be flatter, power will arch less.
Variable valve timing is only helpful REALLY for fuel economy. It can add performance but it only helps when you want a seperate cam profile for bottom end, which really doesn't help that much. Who keeps a 9000 RPM race engine under 4-5k for any amount of time?[/QUOTE]
i'm assuming he meant 5,000rpm to redline
Put on a new Manifold Gasket, replaced that torn piece of shit paper with a nice copper one, sounds TONS better, no more obnoxiously loud slobro nonsense.
Also i was gonna tell you guys about how i raced a tough guy in an RX-8 and won but apparently my rx-7 is just a piece of slow crap and could never beat anyone unless they weren't really racing me so hey.
[editline]19th April 2012[/editline]
Was kinda funny, we got up to the next light where i needed to turn and he was all "Holy shit what you got in that thing!!" and i said cold air and exhaust w/ a smug look on my face and drove away :D he was totally dumbfounded, couldn't figure out why his ultimate piece of machinery was beat by an oldie like myself
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;35637722]Gratz, everytime I see this video I rage inside.
OMFGBBQGIJEGOI/EGF A STRIPED OUT LIGHT CAR WITH MODS IS BEATING A BONE STOCK HEAVY SEMI-LUXURY CAR
also that supra is prolly N/A and autotragic[/QUOTE]
that supra is not N/A you can look at the other videos and hear the turbo.
anyway took apart my entire y8 block today looks like the center main bearing was about to shit the bed but i saved it in time, going with p29 ycp pistons with a y8 block, b7 gasket, and y8 head looking at a 12.6~:1 compression ratio with a p28 ecu. Damn I just got this thing so i didn't have to run 93 like my turbo volvo but damn, atleast ill get 30+mpg
[QUOTE=Hell Strike;35641392]i'm assuming he meant 5,000rpm to redline[/QUOTE]
but but... I have a 6500 redline and a 5800 drop off point D:
My friends V6 mustang has a 4500 rpm redline
da
fuq
[QUOTE=Concur;35643072]My friends V6 mustang has a 4500 rpm redline
da
fuq[/QUOTE]
no shit? the v8s at 5900
4500 just seems dumb
[QUOTE=bradley;35641078]Uh. K Series does use two camshafts. And how can you not see a non-vtec motor making the same power? THe only difference here is that the VTEC motor has two lift profiles (low and high) and the VTEC engine has one that is generally between both VTEC profiles, but aftermarket is always closer to just the high profile.
5k redline? I... What? I've never had a Civic with a 5k redline. I push my notec Civic to 7500 every day. The limiter stock was 7200, MPFI ECU stock was 6500 but that was too low. The map I run now is 9000.
A stock valvetrain can hit 8000 with no worries as long as it's not junk and worn out. If a D series non-VTEC has the exact same setup, port size, valve size, and between the two one is VTEC and one is non-VTEC, you'll see the better powerband and near identical power out of the non-VTEC engine. Torque will be flatter, power will arch less.
Variable valve timing is only helpful REALLY for fuel economy. It can add performance but it only helps when you want a seperate cam profile for bottom end, which really doesn't help that much. Who keeps a 9000 RPM race engine under 4-5k for any amount of time?[/QUOTE]
5k-redline, as in 5k TO redline. A hyphen is usually used as an abbreviation.
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;35540630]Was in the engine bay fixing some stuff, but turbo the 'vette. Will be awesome
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/dNwlul.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
When did I make a roadtrip?
WAT
also I installed the new sway bar links with the new sways bar, had to go fubar with the grinder to get the old links away (once more)... but now I have much more rigid swaybar up front and rear, can't wait to test it out
Drop springs in
[img]http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/535347_389332124435033_100000747462026_1192658_1612005490_n.jpg[/img]
2.5" front, 2.25" rear. Doesn't look like much but in person it seems way lower than it was. It used to sit like a monster truck.
[img]http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/555467_378649325503313_100000747462026_1164970_1117102081_n.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/9642/0000310.jpg[/img]
high compression 1.6L :pwn:, don't mind the dirt this was when i was taking it apart., to non car savvy people, those piston tops should be even or below the deck
lol I have seen that with a 1uz-fe rebuilded by a retarded owner, the pistons were 6mm higher than the block deck when at TDC... I wonder why we heard so much slapping huh
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;35663471]lol I have seen that with a 1uz-fe rebuilded by a retarded owner, the pistons were 6mm higher than the block deck when at TDC... I wonder why we heard so much slapping huh[/QUOTE]
6mm? Shit, what kind of rods was he using to get that kind of height?
[editline]21st April 2012[/editline]
ALso today I went to the swap meet again, but there was nothing real interesting there, so here's a picture of my car parked in the grass because parking was full.
[img]http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/306097_389606277740951_100000747462026_1193504_1632256098_n.jpg[/img]
I'm liking these Del Sol fat fives.
Working on compiling a parts list in the form of a spread sheet.
I think i was right in saying the car will cost around 35K.
I'm at $24,281.87 so far, still some parts to be added to the list.
EDIT:
Actually i think it will ring up to around 45k - 50k because i'm at 31k now and i haven't even added the turbo kit which will cost about 10k.
But a lifetime is plenty of time to get that kind of money and its gonna be worth every penny!
What are you building?
dreams
Went and picked up Borellus's Golf Cabriolet today. Real great little car, no dents, no dings, perfect top, perfect interior, all the factory aluminum wheels still intact with excellent tires. The only thing missing is the door and fender trims, and the blinker switch is a bit wonky I think.
Dumped $20 in gas in it and drove it ~10 miles to his house, ran out great. He's still getting used to manual though.
Only pic I have so far:
[img]http://images.craigslist.org/5L45K85F53K53G73M3c4g9ebfbed3627f19c7.jpg[/img]
I'll make him post some more when we get it cleaned up.
today was productive my income tax came in so I bought a set of motegi MR117's with michelin pilot super sport rubber and KYB GR/2 struts with eibach pro lowering springs should drop my GA quite nicely.
Also started the disassembly on my grandpas monte carlo to replace the LIM/UIM gaskets.
and replaced my pads and rotors (EBC redstuff and stoptech slotted/drilled rotors) It definitely stops quicker and the pedal response is much firmer i'm hoping once i get the struts/springs installed there won't be so much body roll in corners
[QUOTE=Koenigsegg;35666149]Working on compiling a parts list in the form of a spread sheet.
I think i was right in saying the car will cost around 35K.
I'm at $24,281.87 so far, still some parts to be added to the list.
EDIT:
Actually i think it will ring up to around 45k - 50k because i'm at 31k now and i haven't even added the turbo kit which will cost about 10k.
But a lifetime is plenty of time to get that kind of money and its gonna be worth every penny![/QUOTE]
there'll be new tech by the time you have the money.
[QUOTE=Psygo;35670795]there'll be new tech by the time you have the money.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, I may go with the new 86's engine anyway, but its fun to work all this stuff out.
I am a idiot and I installed the rear sway bar upside down, there isn't much difference but it is hitting the subframe when I go over a bump.
I have to do it all over again tomorrow and put grease on the bushing (cuz I forgot)
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;35680108]I am a idiot and I installed the rear sway bar upside down, there isn't much difference but it is hitting the subframe when I go over a bump.
I have to do it all over again tomorrow and put grease on the bushing (cuz I forgot)[/QUOTE]
I fell your pain bro. I have to put labels on stuff "THIS SIDE UP".
the front one was freaking obvious in its shape and place where it goes. but the rear one has a slight curved angle on both end that make it like 3/4 inch higher than it should
fuck meeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
but! the handling was vastly improved by those sways bar, even on the stock soft coil
I think shit rubs when I turn sharp left and am driving hard in a corner, or if I hit a large bump.
I need to figure out what's happening.
[QUOTE=bradley;35680920]I think shit rubs when I turn sharp left and am driving hard in a corner, or if I hit a large bump.
I need to figure out what's happening.[/QUOTE]
upside down sway bars mannnnnnnn
I tell you maaaaannnn
Loaded my blue dodge with scrap metal and old augers.
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/82c87122.jpg[/thumb]
The way my truck is shot give it a wierd look, like the proportions are out of wack
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/7e29d5ed.jpg[/thumb]
Quite low compared to the usual stance and I still have a good 800 pounds of augers left to throw in the back.
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