Alright, I've posted a pic of my car at least twice and said I wanted a Chevy 400 to drop in it, but I was wondering...
What do [i]you all[/i] think would be best choice (with a low budget) to drop in a tank car like the Catalina? It's got an Oooooooooold 301 in it ATM so scratch that and a V6 just wouldn't have the pep.
Pontiac?
455 hoss
:P
[t]http://image.highperformancepontiac.com/f/32422482/hppp_1006_06_o+1973_pontiac_455_grand_am+engine.jpg[/t]
I think that car actually had the 455 as an option... Not sure. WHat year catalina was that?
1979 4 door.
[img]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/f7b9db2b.jpg[/img]
EDIT: If I can get one of those, you bet your ass I will.
is that a boat?
Yarrr, tis a land yacht ye sea dog! :pirate:
I love old cars like that, and there is almost enough room under the hood to lay down and catch a nap. :v:
[editline]5th May 2012[/editline]
Ha, you mean on the left. Yes, yes it is. It's my grandpas 22 foot V-bottom. (RIP)
Ah, the B-body cat, those are pretty chill. Never had a big block in them but not hard to put one there.
I fucking love how all old cars are just like, oh you want to put a big block in me?
go in dry babe, I'll bite the pillow.
[editline]5th May 2012[/editline]
Also my friends dad is putting the 289 from his falcon into the maverick, and fixing the mav obvisously.
So now my friends first car will be a 72 maverick with a 289 and possibly a 4 speed if he wants to convince his dad.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;35837619]Yarrr, tis a land yacht ye sea dog! :pirate:
I love old cars like that, and there is almost enough room under the hood to lay down and catch a nap. :v:
[editline]5th May 2012[/editline]
Ha, you mean on the left. Yes, yes it is. It's my grandpas 22 foot V-bottom. (RIP)[/QUOTE]
I didn't see the boat on the left before you said it, I was talking about that thing in the middle.
joke on me now :(
Man you guys crack my shit up sometimes.
Some Catalina lore for your reading pleasure.
Source: [URL="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pontiac_Catalina"]Catalina[/URL]
[quote=Wikipedia]In 1977, Pontiac and other GM divisions downsized their full-sized cars in an effort to lighten weight and improve gas mileage. The Catalina continued as Pontiac's entry-level full-size automobile with a Buick-built 231 cubic-inch V6 now standard in sedans and coupes (Safari wagons came standard with V8 power) and optional V8s of 301 CID, 350 CID and 400 CID displacements, each Pontiac-built engines and offered in all states except California. The Pontiac 350 was offered in 1977, but replaced by Buick and Olds 350 V8s from 1978 to 1980; and the Pontiac 400, offered through 1978, was replaced by an Oldsmobile 403 V8 in 1979 only. An Olds-built 350 Diesel V8 was optional for 1980 and 1981, along with another cut-down Pontiac V8 of 265 CID.
With the downsized 1977 model, the Catalina Safari got a new two-way tailgate that could be opened to the side as a door or lowered as a tailgate which replaced the more complicated 1971-76 clamshell tailgate design. The wagons also shared the same full-coil spring suspension as their sedan counterparts, rather than the multi-leaf springs found on 1971-76 Safaris.
As Pontiac V8s were completely banned from the State of California beginning in 1977 due to the inability to meet the state's more stringent emission control standards, Catalinas (and Bonnevilles) sold in California were equipped with engines from other GM divisions through 1981. Those included the Buick 231 V6 and an assortment of V8s including the Chevrolet 305, Oldsmobile 307, Buick and Olds 350s, and Olds 403 V8.
The Catalina was discontinued after the 1981 model year along with the more luxurious Bonneville as Pontiac sought to abandon the full-sized car market as part of GM's continued downsizing program. The 1982 Bonneville was introduced as a mid-size car. When production of the Catalina nameplate ended in 1981, over 3.8 million Catalinas had been sold since 1959.[/quote]
New rotors, pads, and brake fluid for the MR2. Also pained the calipers black to clean them up. PO cracked 3/4 rotors. You can see one of the cracks on the old rotor. From how he destroyed this engine i'm sure he wasnt nice at all to the brakes. One crack on an in-spec rotor is a manufacturing fault. Three isnt.
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e7/Tiersin/2012-05-05_12-08-54_22.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e7/Tiersin/2012-05-05_13-20-00_251.jpg[/IMG]
get rid of those wheels... remind me of those picture I see of black with normal car raised on 30inchs all chrome and ugly
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;35839937]get rid of those wheels... remind me of those picture I see of black with normal car raised on 30inchs all chrome and ugly[/QUOTE]
You can say it however many times you want but his inner donk likes them or someshit. They're terribad though, I don't think anyone but him actually likes them here.
(THis is Banned User's car btw if you didn't know)
Got my GMPP Sway Bar on, it's a huge increase in handling.
Still straight pipe right now, gonna weld my mufflers on tomorrow.
[QUOTE=bradley;35840075]You can say it however many times you want but his inner donk likes them or someshit. They're terribad though, I don't think anyone but him actually likes them here.
(THis is Banned User's car btw if you didn't know)[/QUOTE]
might be his car, in the lawnmower photo thread, a lot of people agreed with the fact that these are horrible wheels
I got my first look at my rear sway bar when inspecting my car for damage this morning
I've never seen a fucking sway bar as thin as this, I'm talking pencil-thick. Took me a solid 10 minutes to figure out what it was because i just couldn't believe a sway bar could be that fucking SMALL. I'm definitely going to have to upgrade them, sometime soon. Especially if they make as much of a difference as you guys say, cause not upgrading seems so stupid...I mean seriously, the rear one can't be any thicker than a pencil. I think my front shocks/struts are going out, too. Seem to be leaking fluid. Not sure if related to the wreck or not, they seem to have been leaking for a while.
[QUOTE=justin1992;35840473]I got my first look at my rear sway bar when inspecting my car for damage this morning
I've never seen a fucking sway bar as thin as this, I'm talking pencil-thick. Took me a solid 10 minutes to figure out what it was because i just couldn't believe a sway bar could be that fucking SMALL. I'm definitely going to have to upgrade them, sometime soon. Especially if they make as much of a difference as you guys say, cause not upgrading seems so stupid...I mean seriously, the rear one can't be any thicker than a pencil. I think my front shocks/struts are going out, too. Seem to be leaking fluid. Not sure if related to the wreck or not, they seem to have been leaking for a while.[/QUOTE]
did you find out how much the car is bent
Not yet. I'll have to have that checked out in a shop
couldnt you just do it yourself with your repair manual and a mesuring tape
like this
[IMG]http://www.cygnusx1.net/Media/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/BO/BO_064.gif[/IMG]
[QUOTE=bradley;35840075]You can say it however many times you want but his inner donk likes them or someshit. They're terribad though, I don't think anyone but him actually likes them here.
(THis is Banned User's car btw if you didn't know)[/QUOTE]
And even we don't like them much. But they are round, have a rubber outside and 5 holes for lug nuts on the inside, so there on the car now. Definite plans to replace them in the near future. Rubber is 100% though so at least we don't have to replace them. Honestly if anything, they are way to heavy for the car. These things way a ton.
Wheels came with the car, so I can't complain. But I am definitely swapping them for something lighter in the future.
I have a wiring question so I'll copy paste from another forum here
[QUOTE]I have a Quickcar switch panel in my 1991 SR hatch, and the fuel pump is already wired to it.
I want to retain the security of having to have the key in the ignition to start it but be able to start it with the momentary switch on the panel.
How should I go about doing this? I'm not completely sure on how the ignition system works, but I'm blindly guessing that power is supplied to the key cylinder and when turned to acc, power is sent to the acc relay, switching it on, and then when it's turned to start, power is cut to acc and it sends power to the starter?
If I'm correct on how power is supplied, could I take the power from the ACC spot of the key and put it to the momentary on the panel, and have a toggle on the panel send power to the ACC relay after I start the car?
edit
Woops, forgot ACC and ON are two different things. The difference I'm not sure. I guess basically get rid of ACC and put ON to the momentary switch[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=lemon_lover;35843014]I have a wiring question so I'll copy paste from another forum here[/QUOTE]
get a 12V that get activated only when the key is on ON (like cig ligther and whatnot), wired to a switch, to trigger a 30amp relay that trigger the bendix on the startermotor.
worked great for me
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;35843098]get a 12V that get activated only when the key is on ON (like cig ligther and whatnot), wired to a switch, to trigger a 30amp relay that trigger the bendix on the startermotor.
worked great for me[/QUOTE]
+1 this is the same thing I did with the civic, but I ran all new wires for it.
I actually clipped the actual starter portion of the key ignition out so that you have to have the key in for it to start and the button will turn it over.
[QUOTE=bradley;35843345]+1 this is the same thing I did with the civic, but I ran all new wires for it.
I actually clipped the actual starter portion of the key ignition out so that you have to have the key in for it to start and the button will turn it over.[/QUOTE]
thats exactly how I done mine.
but I hidden 2 switch that toggle the obvious "PUSH START SWITCH" and I can remove the relay from its box.
it's the ultimate TROLLCAR for thieft lol
So looking through the ignition harness, I learned two things,
1. The shop that installed my turbo timer is quite lazy.
2. I learned that the turbo timer does pretty much the same thing, piggybacking off the IGN's 12v constant and supplies it to the ACC and ON wires for the set amount of time, then the car dies.
That makes me wonder though, does the car run with no power to the ON wire? I'm thinking not
[editline]6th May 2012[/editline]
Ok, learned that yes indeed, ON has power during cranking.
New plan of attack...
ON wire from cylinder to momentary, which then connects to wires to starter and ECU
Prewired toggles with power on panel
First one wired to ON wire
Second is already wired to fuel pump
Third will be ACC
To turn on car-
Turn key to ON
Flip ON and FUEL toggles
Depress starter button
Flip ACC toggle
ready to drive.
I learned that the Dodge Neon can be made to have a cheapass "turbo timer" by running the fan's 12v hot to the fuel pump relay's switch side. The relay will stay on until the fan spins down, usually a good few seconds. I'm certain this effect could be prolonged easily with some simple circuitry.
I figured this shit out because I was redoing the harness on the Neon my sister raced on the dirt oval and I found that handy trick, I left it like that just because it actually kind of helped a little bit IMO. Not enough to make a difference though.
Did some more inspecting of the speakers in my car, the cardboard spiders on them all have deteriorated and cracked. so I've ordered some new speakers. Upgrade time!
I think I might just go do all the ideas that have been floating around my head. The horn needs replacing, it's crap... *parp* *parp* - Air horn time!
One of my ideas is build a rasperry pi carputer into one of the floor storage boxes along with a 7" display and some navigation software, dvd drive. the works.
Got my new muffs and tips on this morning, and fixed all the leaks I had left.
[IMG]http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/1325/20120506120623551.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/8919/20120506120637481.jpg[/IMG]
Well, I opened up the garage, got all the tools out, got ready to rip the heart out of the EF.
Go sit in it, put the key in, go to start it, WHIRRWHIRRWHIRRWHIRRWHIRRWHIRRWHIRRWHIRRWHIRRWHIRRWHIRRWHIRR
Hmm
So the civic apparently died on me overnight with no indication of why. Good compression, timing is dead on, fuel pump is kicking on. I don't feel like fucking with it today.
Fuck it.
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