after searching in the bottom level of jdm imports in Montréal, and arguing with afga people for hours.
I got the 1jz with healty compression, without ecu (they "couldnt find" one), without ignitor (again, "couldnt find one") and with a broken MAP SENSOR (might be fixable). No tranny or flywheel and they almost sold it without a Powersteering compressor (on that one I said nothing, took my toolbox, took their ladder, climb on the racking to a 1jz up in the top and unbolted the PS and said: THAT'S GOING HOME WITH ME). 1k$
now, I calculated all that is needed for the swap, EVERY SINGLE FUCKING PARTS DOWN TO THE BOLTS.
it will cost around 3.3k$ total (or 2.3k without the engine).
Now If I sell my engine, 2.6k$
If I sell my current turbo/inj/maf 1.7k$
which is not unreasonable but it will be less powerful than my current setup (when not blown :( )
BUT.
This engine could (with bigger injectors, a AFPR and a high flow fuel pump) be in the 500-600rwhp with a proper turbo setup (probably next year, gt35r or something. Might be a Hx30 or 40...) and a standalone.
edit:
yeah and I might be going 1.5jz when I'll go single and standalone. The thing is to take a 2jz-ge base and put the 1jz-gte head on it. you get a 3L 1jzgte but you dont have to change all the electronics, pay for the 2jzgte and the compression is raised a bit. 2jz-ge can be found for 250$ and less
EDIT2:
I've seen a celicasupra 84 with a 1jz-gte BPU in it, he made 298rwhp exactly that day (very very hot summer day) and when we went to the dragstripe GOD that thing was quick and fast, powerband was awesome too.
but my memories of that buttdyno session are far and my 7m made more than 350whp so It might have been less amazing than it was. Also it won't be cheap because you'll need a R154 and all the same fucking goodies I need for my swap (all the little bits that end up being a fucking shitton of cash)
also, wiring is a nightmare...
[IMG]http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a283/shiban/aea51f73.png[/IMG][IMG]http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a283/shiban/64df74b1.png[/IMG]
First actual road test after its out of the shop. Drove it around town with my dad until it started knocking and overheated. Temp gauge was well past critical warning notch. We pulled it over and let it cool for a few minutes until we drove it again.
Popped the hood and thin white smoke was billowing from the lower block of the engine. Coolant level seems like it hasn't moved at all. It really could be anything. From what I've read so far it seems like a seized line or radiator. Both of which can cause temp problems
:(
Pulled the rear hubs off, pressed (hammered) in the new studs, put the hubs back on. Then took off the front rotors and realized it's gonna be a nightmare to get those hubs off, so I'm gonna wait and see if i even need longer studs on the front. The back ones were fucked and needed to be replaced regardless, so i got longer ones, but i might not need them for the front. Anyways, I then finished cleaning up my taillights and put those back in (you may have noticed one was off when i made the video clips, i can actually fucking see the brake lights now). Then ripped, almost literally, the bent lateral link (I've been calling it a trailing link, it's a lateral link) off and threw it on the desk while i contemplate whether to bend it back into shape or buy a new one. A new one is $200+, you see. For a solid bar with balljoints welded on the ends... Adjusted the rear hatch so i can actually shut it without having to slam it; I drop it and it latches perfectly, like it should. Put the front strut tower brace in and got like 75% of the way through putting the rear one on before it got too dark to see. So I'll finish that tomorrow. All while rocking out to the sound system in my car, even without rear speakers it bumps real nice. Can't fucking WAIT to get her rolling again. Closer and closer.
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;36022105]after searching in the bottom level of jdm imports in Montréal, and arguing with afga people for hours.
I got the 1jz with healty compression, without ecu (they "couldnt find" one), without ignitor (again, "couldnt find one") and with a broken MAP SENSOR (might be fixable). No tranny or flywheel and they almost sold it without a Powersteering compressor (on that one I said nothing, took my toolbox, took their ladder, climb on the racking to a 1jz up in the top and unbolted the PS and said: THAT'S GOING HOME WITH ME). 1k$
now, I calculated all that is needed for the swap, EVERY SINGLE FUCKING PARTS DOWN TO THE BOLTS.
it will cost around 3.3k$ total (or 2.3k without the engine).
Now If I sell my engine, 2.6k$
If I sell my current turbo/inj/maf 1.7k$
which is not unreasonable but it will be less powerful than my current setup (when not blown :( )
BUT.
This engine could (with bigger injectors, a AFPR and a high flow fuel pump) be in the 500-600rwhp with a proper turbo setup (probably next year, gt35r or something. Might be a Hx30 or 40...) and a standalone.
edit:
yeah and I might be going 1.5jz when I'll go single and standalone. The thing is to take a 2jz-ge base and put the 1jz-gte head on it. you get a 3L 1jzgte but you dont have to change all the electronics, pay for the 2jzgte and the compression is raised a bit. 2jz-ge can be found for 250$ and less
EDIT2:
I've seen a celicasupra 84 with a 1jz-gte BPU in it, he made 298rwhp exactly that day (very very hot summer day) and when we went to the dragstripe GOD that thing was quick and fast, powerband was awesome too.
but my memories of that buttdyno session are far and my 7m made more than 350whp so It might have been less amazing than it was. Also it won't be cheap because you'll need a R154 and all the same fucking goodies I need for my swap (all the little bits that end up being a fucking shitton of cash)
also, wiring is a nightmare...[/QUOTE]
That sounds like complete ass. I was going to buy a manual SC300 for $1000 and use everything from it, harness and all, fab up my own mounts and have Danny's machine shop make me a driveshaft up. I would have had ~$1200 in a complete 2JZ-GE swap... But I decided to keep the 22RE.
[editline]20th May 2012[/editline]
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;36022951][IMG]http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a283/shiban/aea51f73.png[/IMG][IMG]http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a283/shiban/64df74b1.png[/IMG]
First actual road test after its out of the shop. Drove it around town with my dad until it started knocking and overheated. Temp gauge was well past critical warning notch. We pulled it over and let it cool for a few minutes until we drove it again.
Popped the hood and thin white smoke was billowing from the lower block of the engine. Coolant level seems like it hasn't moved at all. It really could be anything. From what I've read so far it seems like a seized line or radiator. Both of which can cause temp problems
:([/QUOTE]
Change that motherfucking waterpump before I RAAAAAGE
[QUOTE=Siminov;36000665]Put a sharknose on it
[/QUOTE]
fuq dat noise
[QUOTE=bradley;36025227]
Change that motherfucking waterpump before I RAAAAAGE[/QUOTE]
I did! Brand sparkling new. I do believe that the shop did not bleed it correctly and might have air bubbles swimming around in there. Will bleed today
[editline]Edited:[/editline]
I just tested the cooling system. Turns out my car has a hose or line leak somewhere. It's peeing the coolant out. My car has dangerous levels of low coolant. Radiator is like, half-empty. Hence why my mechanic filled the coolant reservoir up to try and diagnose why the rad barely has any inside. Supposed to fill the rad not the reservoir! So now gotta take it to shop and see what hose is leaking the coolant.
Could be that or the heater core. My heater isn't working at all which tells me the core is clogged with no coolant passing it. It's actually freezing when I turn it on. Woooooow
You've put a new water pump on since it leaked on you?
Water pump leaks ONE TIME -> It's bad. Change it.
If the heater core is clogged it won't cause the car to overheat, you can completely bypass the heater core and it won't hurt anything at all. If the heater core was leaking, you'd have wet floorboards.
[QUOTE=bradley;36030175]You've put a new water pump on since it leaked on you?
Water pump leaks ONE TIME -> It's bad. Change it.
If the heater core is clogged it won't cause the car to overheat, you can completely bypass the heater core and it won't hurt anything at all. If the heater core was leaking, you'd have wet floorboards.[/QUOTE]
The old water pump was rusted and non-op, it was seized. So that was replaced with a new one before this happened
I figured it might not be the heater core like you said, nothing interior was wet. The rad has no coolant at all. There's a leak and the coolant is slowly dripping over the control arm, somewhere above it. Somewhere near the thermo. Friend said the steam was from coolant fizzing over hot surface
Has a new thermostat been put in? If not, the thermostat may not be opening all the way and could be letting the water inside the engine just boil.
[QUOTE=bradley;36030228]Has a new thermostat been put in? If not, the thermostat may not be opening all the way and could be letting the water inside the engine just boil.[/QUOTE]
No...
Maybe I need to, but does that cause coolant to leak?
It can cause the coolant to not flow at all and build up lots and lots of pressure, which could cause a hose to burst like you may have. That happened to me, blew past inbetween my upper rad hose and the thermo housing the hose fits onto.
[editline]20th May 2012[/editline]
That kinda depends where your rad cap is though. If it's inline with the pressure build up, that could be why your reservoir is always peeing it out, too, but not leveling out.
[editline]20th May 2012[/editline]
Ah, almost forgot. Finished putting the rear strut tower brace in. Pics will be in the photos thread if interested. Had to kinda...force it over the sub :P
Justin summed up exactly what I was trying to say.
tried welding for like, the second time ever today, definitely worked better than the first time, mostly because I only had a t shirt on this time instead of a hoodie, no pops in my sleeves this time around...
maybe... just maybe i'll weld my ae86 myself instead of making my dad do it.
welding in a t shirt? enjoy your tan
[editline]21st May 2012[/editline]
and by tan i mean awful "sun"burns
and by awful "sun"burns i mean skin cancer
[editline]20th May 2012[/editline]
My dad likes to weld without a shirt on at all...He doesn't exactly look pretty waist up. Skin, i mean.
[QUOTE=Dylan_94;36018476][t]http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/2882/wp000788.jpg[/t]
Reminds me of the odometer on my car
Edit
The weird thing is, it works perfectly when it's about 10 degrees below freezing. That picture was after i drove home from my friend's house in the middle of a freezing night. This is what it looked like when i first started my car though
[t]http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/5288/wp000787f.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
This the same thing that happens to xboxs and PS3s that are prone to the RROD and YLOD. While cool, problem solder contacts are able to carry their current but once they heat up, they split. Like this:
Click image for a better view.
[thumb]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/dc2a.jpg[/thumb]
This problem doesn't always look like this, it can be so hair-line that you can't tell till you reheat the joint. It happens because of heat flexing the solder till said crack/split/break, then it's issue time. Lead free solder is the leading culprit in these situations because its not very mailable and the reason 360s and PS3s all are doomed to die horrid deaths. The only way to fix the issue is to replace the lead free solder with leaded or use plumbers silver solder, but for that stuff you need to get it really hot, of course, because of the silver in it.
I figured that's what it was. It's weird though, 'cause she(my aunt who sold me the car) said that it started after the battery ran flat and needed to be replaced.
Measured all the bearing and piston ring clearances for the 3S-GTE today. Most of the rings need to be ground down a bit. Were gonna get that done tomorrow. Bearings are spot on. I'll have more pics when we get the engine more together.
Bradley have you gotten that Honda back yet? I have a special place in my heart for the d series so I'm interested to see how that goes.
[IMG]http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/241/20120520183722710.jpg[/IMG]
Gave a lil touch up on my rims, the tires aren't cleaned yet, but this is when I had one done.
Looks bad ass.
Got the new engine mounted (again) on the go kart, hauls ass but there was a leak on the fuel line that will be addressed tomorrow. Also, we are looking at that green 1968 tomorrow, fuck yeeeah.
Car in question:
[url]http://alberta.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-1968-Dodge-Dart-Coupe-W0QQAdIdZ368013962[/url]
I'm going to 440 swap that bitch in like a month, super easy.
Super pissed at the repair shop. Now I really think they're jipping me. First, they are charging me for parts that are not even on the car yet. NGK iridium spark plugs, tension rods aren't even there and they're charging $300 for both. But it doesn't compare to this bullshit:
[video=youtube;zD6b1ONx8_E]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zD6b1ONx8_E[/video]
(Forgive horse galloping, its really a metal tick. Mic on phone sucks. Aside from light metallic tapping, car runs smooth and idles correctly.)
Basically, the reason it fizzed yesterday when my dad and I drove it around was that it was running on NO COOLANT. It was fucking empty! The lower radiator hose was disconnected either on purpose or just forgotten. It didn't have the metal bracket that secured it to the radiator port. It was also tucked in behind the control brace.
Being positive, it could have blown due to a malfunctioning thermo. I tested the cooling system today by filling the radiator with water. The temperature was continuing to rise so I wanted to know why. All the water just spilled under the car and into the driveway. Explains the overheating and heater. So I reattached the hose and filled it up with water. STEAM which means the car was bone dry this whole time!
So pissed, gonna go cause a shit storm at the shop tomorrow
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;36036000]Super pissed at the repair shop. Now I really think they're jipping me. First, they are charging me for parts that are not even on the car yet. NGK iridium spark plugs, tension rods aren't even there and they're charging $300 for both. But it doesn't compare to this bullshit:
[video=youtube;zD6b1ONx8_E]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zD6b1ONx8_E[/video]
(Forgive horse galloping, its really a metal tick. Mic on phone sucks. Aside from light metallic tapping, car runs smooth and idles correctly.)
Basically, the reason it fizzed yesterday when my dad and I drove it around was that it was running on NO COOLANT. It was fucking empty! The lower radiator hose was disconnected either on purpose or just forgotten. It didn't have the metal bracket that secured it to the radiator port. It was also tucked in behind the control brace.
Being positive, it could have blown due to a malfunctioning thermo. I tested the cooling system today by filling the radiator with water. The temperature was continuing to rise so I wanted to know why. All the water just spilled under the car and into the driveway. Explains the overheating and heater. So I reattached the hose and filled it up with water. STEAM which means the car was bone dry this whole time!
So pissed, gonna go cause a shit storm at the shop tomorrow[/QUOTE]
At least you didn't totally blow the engine, though it still sucks.
[QUOTE=Tiersin;36035140]Measured all the bearing and piston ring clearances for the 3S-GTE today. Most of the rings need to be ground down a bit. Were gonna get that done tomorrow. Bearings are spot on. I'll have more pics when we get the engine more together.
Bradley have you gotten that Honda back yet? I have a special place in my heart for the d series so I'm interested to see how that goes.[/QUOTE]
The D16A6 is burning oil, decided to build the Z6 block but I am getting ready to insure my Celica and drive it as a DD so I can rip the D16A6 out of the Civic. Going to get bearings and shit to finish the Z6 block and find a good D16Y7 head to hog out, and slap it on there.
I'm running low on single cam stuff, I usually have way more than this. My spares pile is getting thin though.
[QUOTE=Ollih;36032854]welding in a t shirt? enjoy your tan
[editline]21st May 2012[/editline]
and by tan i mean awful "sun"burns[/QUOTE]
it's not like i'm gonna be welding 24/7 the rest of my life, it's just the car and that's about all i'll be welding in the near future.
[QUOTE=Psygo;36038074]it's not like i'm gonna be welding 24/7 the rest of my life, it's just the car and that's about all i'll be welding in the near future.[/QUOTE]
It doesn't even take an hour to get nasty burns you know
[editline]21st May 2012[/editline]
I got burned during welding class a few months ago because my sleeve slipped up my arm and didn't cover my wrist where the gloves stopped
i weld naked
[QUOTE=Ldesu;36038224]It doesn't even take an hour to get nasty burns you know
[editline]21st May 2012[/editline]
I got burned during welding class a few months ago because my sleeve slipped up my arm and didn't cover my wrist where the gloves stopped[/QUOTE]
oh well, then i'll be burnt and get cancer and die, but atleast it wont be hopping into my sleeves.
Installed an AUX cable for my radio, got a few cuts on my hands from routing the wire under some panels :v:
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