Is Royal Purple even worth it? I know its really expensive.
a 1/4 Wrench that's not Craftsman HOW DARE YOU.
[QUOTE=FordLord;36389279]Update on the rear wiper removal, I went around the inside of the hole with clear silicone to seal it.
Today I did a throttle body coolant bypass.
Originally, Subaru made the coolant run through the throttle body. From what I understand, it was to help when temps get pretty far below 0F. I've heard of people running without it in subzero temps without any issues.
Anyways, since it's summer, all that hot coolant running through the throttle body heats up the air going through it.
It was a quick 10 minute job. Only had to buy a 3/8" double ended brass/copper barb (can't remember which.) Unhooked the intake, unplugged the two coolant hoses, plugged them together with the barb, and put the factory hose clamps over both ends for extra security.
Started it up, checked for leaks. All was good. Took it for a drive, noticed enough of a change to make it worth my time.
I've noticed a smoother power band, it seams to idle better in stop and go traffic when heat has time to build up a bit. It might have gained a slight amount of power, but I think it's more like it just made it run a bit better.[/QUOTE]
mine seems to heat soak a little less at stop lights, peppier off boost, it's never freezing here so it's no use to me
[editline]19th June 2012[/editline]
[QUOTE=FoxDonuT;36392624][IMG]http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee46/MaImpala/1e249028.jpg[/IMG]
[/QUOTE]
lol overpriced oil that my car would shear/self destruct on
high zinc content erryday
[img]http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/415itTy1T%2BL._SL500_AA300_.jpg[/img]
Isn't that oil crazy cheap? I saw a 5 quart bottle of it at autozone last time i was buying oil and wondered why it was so cheap (like 15 dollars for 5 quarts).
it's used in diesel trucks, I do an occasional oil analysis and it's the only one so far that doesn't shear into piss (lol mobil1), or show high amounts of leftover bearing material. I've heard of people getting rod knock on stock stis by running m1 5w30, but people also don't consider Florida a "harsh climate" even through it technically is
also apparently it's bad for cats but I have none so whatever, I run it for over 6000 miles and it still has a good amount of additives and viscosity left. cheap 5gal pails are nice too, it being conventional oil might have something to do with the price
I always used Rotella T 5w30 synthetic when I had my ATV. It ran a wet clutch, so I needed oil without tons of friction modifiers. I always liked running it.
I've heard Rotella T6? Is good in NA Subaru's. I think I'm using Castrol GTX now. I used to run Mobil 5000 or whatever. Only switched because that particular day I decided to change my oil, Walmart was out of Mobil 5000. I also use Fram filters. With using a whole court of oil every 500 miles, it's not like I need a good filter lol
I used 5w-20 mobil 1 full synth last oil change, should i get something else next time? I'm destine to change my oil soon. My car calls for 5w-20, it's a 1.7l i4 with a 7200rpm rev limit. I haven't had any obvious short term problems using mobil 1 this change, but it's the only time i've changed the oil since i've got it. I've done about 3000-4000 miles with it. I don't know exactly because the odometer is digital and fucked up.
[editline]19th June 2012[/editline]
it's a civic
I put the RP in cuz it was on sale (was 30 cents a Quart cheaper than Mobil 1). I do like it though, did a gasket job on a friends 02 impala, with 121K on it. Not a spec of tar or gunk anywhere in the engine compared to my 02 that used I ran Mobil 1 in.
I also don't have many options for "warrenty Approved" oil. It HAS to be GM Dexos 1 Certified. The Only Full synts around here Mobil 1, AC-Delco, Quaker and RP are...
rotella ruined my rings.
fuck that cheap ass oil
The first time I used Rotella in a car was in my old racecar, 2.2 liters of N/A pushrod GM got ruined the next race. Was it the oil's fault? Who knows. But I won't run it again, that's for sure.
Personally I use cheap walmart oil in anything I could give a shit about, and royal purple in anything I do care about. It's expensive, but come on... Look how many people use it in extreme performance conditions and have no problems with it. It's also been the longest lasting oil I've seen -- when we put it in Jap's new D15B for his CRX he didn't change that shit for a long time and it still looked pretty good when it came out.
Regardless, cheap oil is what it is, cheap oil. But there's a big wide area of oils that cost a range of difference and don't outperform one another. This is anywhere from $3 a quart to $10 a quart or more.
One thing to note though: Penzoil is garbage. But they make pretty good filters. Probably so they can filter that molasses they try and pass for oil.
I've ran nothing but Motorcraft(Ford) oil in my trucks. I wouldn't mind trying Royal Purple if it wasn't for Motorcraft oils being cheaper at my local Wal-Mart. Plus I'm hoping Ford knows how to design a filter and oil to maintain their own engine.
One oil I swear by is Slick50. When me and my dad built the 350 for his van, he made the mistake of running slick50 in it before break in.
It didn't break in normally for 30,000 miles and still looked super clean. I've heard of Royal Purple being a damn good oil, but until I get a chance to use it I can't really comment.
Also, cheap oil = "in a pinch/don't give a shit"
It doesn't seem like a terrible idea to get cheap average oil and change it twice as frequently.
[QUOTE=bradley;36412067]The first time I used Rotella in a car was in my old racecar, 2.2 liters of N/A pushrod GM got ruined the next race. Was it the oil's fault? Who knows. But I won't run it again, that's for sure.
Personally I use cheap walmart oil in anything I could give a shit about, and royal purple in anything I do care about. It's expensive, but come on... Look how many people use it in extreme performance conditions and have no problems with it. It's also been the longest lasting oil I've seen -- when we put it in Jap's new D15B for his CRX he didn't change that shit for a long time and it still looked pretty good when it came out.
Regardless, cheap oil is what it is, cheap oil. But there's a big wide area of oils that cost a range of difference and don't outperform one another. This is anywhere from $3 a quart to $10 a quart or more.
One thing to note though: Penzoil is garbage. But they make pretty good filters. Probably so they can filter that molasses they try and pass for oil.[/QUOTE]
where have you been bro, havent saw you post for 2 weeks
I've always used Castrol GTX *High Mileage* in my vehicles. I'd use Royal in my rex but rotaries don't like synthetics. So i run that Castrol in a 10W-40. Getting pretty near the halfway point for another oil change and since getting rid of the junk he had and putting this stuff in it's treating the engine absolutely fantastic and still looks like new. In fact, it even seems to have stopped any leaks i previously had.
I run Castrol 10w-30. Why use crappy oil if you're going to have to clean it up in repairs later is my logic. Actually, I may need to run thicker oil since the weather's really hot.
Also, I got around to cutting the stupid fake vents on my pignose bumper. I bought a cheap Dremel and some metal cutting disks. I need to finish it up with some polishing bit and some rubber liner so it's not so shitty. Not bad imo with a little sawing and cutting using a straight edge:
[IMG]http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a283/shiban/7785b16f.png[/IMG]
depends on the car really, my car hates synthetics but then again it has alot of miles
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;36416634]where have you been bro, havent saw you post for 2 weeks[/QUOTE]
Very busy, trying to get a development team off the ground and hold onto the shop and my house, but the latter is a failed attempt. I'll likely be looking for a place to live and/or work by the start of next month.
[QUOTE=bradley;36420397]Very busy, trying to get a development team off the ground and hold onto the shop and my house, but the latter is a failed attempt. I'll likely be looking for a place to live and/or work by the start of next month.[/QUOTE]
Development team for what?
[QUOTE=bradley;36420397]Very busy, trying to get a development team off the ground and hold onto the shop and my house, but the latter is a failed attempt. I'll likely be looking for a place to live and/or work by the start of next month.[/QUOTE]
shit, that sucks dude.
[QUOTE=bradley;36420397]Very busy, trying to get a development team off the ground and hold onto the shop and my house, but the latter is a failed attempt. I'll likely be looking for a place to live and/or work by the start of next month.[/QUOTE]
if (bradly:postcount() !++) {AAA misses you posting}
[QUOTE=Koenigsegg;36420619]Development team for what?[/QUOTE]
I make video games and video game accessories
[editline]21st June 2012[/editline]
I tell you what
bough the whole water pump assembly for usdm 2jzgte (supras) with pulley and fan clutch, rear and front housing, all the bolts n shit. Brand new at the toy dealer, for 187$. surprisingly cheap
then I asked a lady with enormous tits in a red tight dress if I could road test the new frs tomorrow. I'll bring my camera for y'all guys
also ordered a 1jz 3"downpipe with a divorced ypipe, made by someone I know , quality stainless!!
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;36425853]bough the whole water pump assembly for usdm 2jzgte (supras) with pulley and fan clutch, rear and front housing, all the bolts n shit. Brand new at the toy dealer, for 187$. surprisingly cheap
then I asked [b]a lady with enormous tits in a red tight dress[/b] if I could road test the new frs tomorrow. I'll bring my camera for y'all guys
also ordered a 1jz 3"downpipe with a divorced ypipe, made by someone I know , quality stainless!![/QUOTE]
So the "Lady in the red dress" got a boob job?
she was supposed to be a representent or a seller. To me, she was a whore in a dealership, she wasn't polite nor helpful, didn't know shit about the frs (I doubt she knew about all the rollas and shit either).
BUT she knew the price and all the fees by heart... anyway. Waterpump and roadtest, tomorrow should be interesting
Throw some G's on them titties yo
[QUOTE=Concur;36428441]Throw some G's on them titties yo[/QUOTE]
Ask her to go ride with you
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;36425853]bough the whole water pump assembly for usdm 2jzgte (supras) with pulley and fan clutch, rear and front housing, all the bolts n shit. Brand new at the toy dealer, for 187$. surprisingly cheap
then I asked a lady with enormous tits in a red tight dress if I could road test the new frs tomorrow. I'll bring my camera for y'all guys
also ordered a 1jz 3"downpipe with a divorced ypipe, made by someone I know , quality stainless!![/QUOTE]
So we're going to get some pics of these enormous tits?
nope, but if I'm in a good mood, there will be a video of the test drive
[IMG]http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a283/shiban/56d327a7.png[/IMG]
More fiberglass in my lungs after using the smoothing bit I got. Which designer at Nissan do I get to beat up for designing fake vents.
Installed catch can.
Guides I looked up said to use 5/8" hose.
Picked up 1/2" thread-to-5/8" barbs, air/water seperator with 1/2" openings
Pick up 5/8" ID hose
Get home, realize that my houses are actually 5/8" OD
Fuck it, cut old hose ends off, slide old hose ends into new hose to use as adapter
Plug shit in, away we go yo
Reason for Catch-can;
Massive-ass blowby. PCV valve clogged after maybe a year, intake/intake manifold coated in oil, running rich as a bitch
Thank you Mr. Turtle for ripping open my oil pan, making my engine run low on oil, and making my piston rings leak
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