Get 3/4 of the way to sand pit for a wheeling sesh, truck starts running hot, can see smoke and smell coolant, shut it off and pull over.
Coolant overflows, wait for a little bit, refill the resivoir and recap it, go to the pit.
Cop shows up while im doing doughies, turn my truck off (it was at normal operating temp) and the coolant all started to piss out again...
Refilled it once more.
Removed the hood hinge bolts and propped the hood up to help vent it out (read it on a few jeep forums)
On the way home i got loltraffic'd by some jackass at a redlight, coolant started to boil over, had to leave the truck at a CVS.
Come back an hour later with some water and coolant with my friend, refill it, get about nowhere up the road, truck shoots up to 260(red as fuck)
Truck is NOW sitting in a church parkinglot (full coolant atm)
TL;DR: My truck overheated 3 times, i need a thermostat
And i have to replace the thermostat in a church parkinglot in some random town.
How much coolant should i expect to lose changing the thermostat..?
As long as the thermostat is is an upper mounted one, not to much. So long as your crafty with where you rest the upper rad hose.
When my 240 was doing the same thing it wasn't the thermostat.
I replaced rad hoses and a new thermostat. It turns out one coolant hose somewhere sprung a leak because of it's age and that's what causes the air to get into the water system, overheating my car and pissing all the coolant. Find the leak, replace all the old hoses and get a new thermostat. A new radiator cap is also needed.
[QUOTE=Concur;36439454]Get 3/4 of the way to sand pit for a wheeling sesh, truck starts running hot, can see smoke and smell coolant, shut it off and pull over.
Coolant overflows, wait for a little bit, refill the resivoir and recap it, go to the pit.
Cop shows up while im doing doughies, turn my truck off (it was at normal operating temp) and the coolant all started to piss out again...
Refilled it once more.
Removed the hood hinge bolts and propped the hood up to help vent it out (read it on a few jeep forums)
On the way home i got loltraffic'd by some jackass at a redlight, coolant started to boil over, had to leave the truck at a CVS.
Come back an hour later with some water and coolant with my friend, refill it, get about nowhere up the road, truck shoots up to 260(red as fuck)
Truck is NOW sitting in a church parkinglot (full coolant atm)
TL;DR: My truck overheated 3 times, i need a thermostat
And i have to replace the thermostat in a church parkinglot in some random town.
How much coolant should i expect to lose changing the thermostat..?[/QUOTE]
Lol ur jeep sux
when my ford gets too hot it vapor locks and dies so you cant overheat it
[QUOTE=Concur;36439454]Get 3/4 of the way to sand pit for a wheeling sesh, truck starts running hot, can see smoke and smell coolant, shut it off and pull over.
Coolant overflows, wait for a little bit, refill the resivoir and recap it, go to the pit.
Cop shows up while im doing doughies, turn my truck off (it was at normal operating temp) and the coolant all started to piss out again...
Refilled it once more.
Removed the hood hinge bolts and propped the hood up to help vent it out (read it on a few jeep forums)
On the way home i got loltraffic'd by some jackass at a redlight, coolant started to boil over, had to leave the truck at a CVS.
Come back an hour later with some water and coolant with my friend, refill it, get about nowhere up the road, truck shoots up to 260(red as fuck)
Truck is NOW sitting in a church parkinglot (full coolant atm)
TL;DR: My truck overheated 3 times, i need a thermostat
And i have to replace the thermostat in a church parkinglot in some random town.
How much coolant should i expect to lose changing the thermostat..?[/QUOTE]
4.0 Jeep? not too much, take a gallon jug of water and you'll be fine. It's two 12mm bolts, a bit hard to get to, you'll want a short 12mm socket, a deep 12mm socket, 3/8" drive ratchet, and a 3" extension. And a razor blade to scrape off old gasket. That's all it should take, aside from a screwdriver or pliers depending on what hose clamp you have.
Anyways, I'm sure you guys remember my torn ass seats
[img]http://a1.ec-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/137/46c3c2e6004e4a39924c25a93c64de5c/l.jpg[/img]
Jap hooked me up to get them replaced, a set of CRX Si seats, best $20 I ever spent
[img]http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s720x720/538496_429337427101169_126134239_n.jpg[/img]
e85 is p cool.
Fuckin bolt broke
Coolant all poured out the second I started it.
Gonna tow it home and go hard I'm the garage
I had a similar thing happen to me, i think i posted it here...It was a while back obv.
Was trying to take off the pedestal for the rad cap and a bolt broke off in the thermo neck. It's easy as fuck to repair...Assuming you have the right tools. Which i didn't. Not till i got home. That was a fun night to say the least.
Ahh broken bolts, my old Nemesis. I snapped one off while fixing the waterpump on the Catalina. A small drill bit and a non-tapered concave-ended square punch fixed that right up. I woulda used an Easy-out but I had none, then later in life when I did, it was a fatal mistake..... it SPLIT the bolt I was trying to remove.... and the easy-out broke off. After 5 mins of beating an iron vice with a 5lb sledge, I just drilled it out. Which took an hour and 12 bits, because easy-outs are very hardened steel.
Also, steel bolts and aluminum anything [i]do not[/i] play nice when it comes to corrosion. :/
Cheapass Supra mags because oldschool status
[img]http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/180197_429524327082479_2118834443_n.jpg[/img]
Not bad for $100 (tires included!)
Bradley, what does it mean if neutral aint neutral no more, bent shift fork?
also, no flywheel ARRGGGG
I'll have to buy a fidanza lightweight one for a arm and a leg...
Could be bent shift fork, could be worn linkage or improperly hooked up linkage, I'm not sure what you mean by "neutral isn't neutral anymore".
wheel off ground, handbrak off, transmission neutral: I have to apply all the strengh I have to make my driveshaft turn.
when driveshaft was off, diff was easily turnable by hand, while the output shaft was near impossibru.
You're still turning the weight of the transmission and driveshaft, so I'd imagine it'd take a little force, but that does seem excessive. Hmm. Sounds like your tranny may have munched something.
Are you running that R154 or that 6-speed getrag-derived box they used on the GTE?
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;36455144]Bradley, what does it mean if neutral aint neutral no more, bent shift fork?
also, no flywheel ARRGGGG
I'll have to buy a fidanza lightweight one for a arm and a leg...[/QUOTE]
i loved my 11lb fidanza it replaced the stock 29lb
paid in the 300 buck range. then got a pucked act clutch
[QUOTE=bradley;36451715]Cheapass Supra mags because oldschool status
[img]http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/180197_429524327082479_2118834443_n.jpg[/img]
Not bad for $100 (tires included!)[/QUOTE]
Love those rims on yotacoupes
[QUOTE=bradley;36458293]You're still turning the weight of the transmission and driveshaft, so I'd imagine it'd take a little force, but that does seem excessive. Hmm. Sounds like your tranny may have munched something.
Are you running that R154 or that 6-speed getrag-derived box they used on the GTE?[/QUOTE]
r154 of course
I will open the trans shortly and check for bent fork....
[IMG]http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/1957/img2311xc.jpg[/IMG]
OPS I DID IT AGAIN
I bought me a Impact air gun. Next is a Torque wrench (with digital readout if they make those)
I shall give the impact gun a try tomorrow on a 20gal tank! yeaaaaaa no more busting your balls taking off tires!
Crap this is DIY...........
I painted wheels. from platsi-dip. to Plasti-dip.
Before
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1031910/Audi/2012-06-24%2008.22.24.jpg[/t]
No one say anything about the plasti-dip. I need to get a sandblaster/walnutblaster and remove EVERY DROP OF PAINT off these tires. (Plasti dip is a short term fix)
Yes some jackass painted the silver wheels gold. and another jackass painted them plati-dip black. BACK TO SILVER IN A FEW MONTHS (Or a nice powder black)
Opened my R154 trans today...
weird ass thing:
1- All gears are BRAND FUCKING NEW (its a 23yo virgin R154, never been rebuilt)
2- All syncro are in extremly good conditions
3- Almost all bearings were perfect, we had to hammer a few to open the trans, I'll change them
Before opening it, first gear was fine while: 2,3,4,5,R were blocking after 1/16 of a turn
when we opened it, everything was FINE, it shifted alright (but hard, normal when trying to push the fork manually). Forks were fine and not bent.
But I noticed that the fork sliding 1/2/R was eated up a bit on the side of the 2nd gear. So I tried to reproduce the position in which the fork could touch the 2nd gear and it was impossible, there is no way to reproduce that, so WTF is going on here.
Trying to turn the trans over in neutral while holding the output shaft IS REALLY FUCKING HARD. Why is that? is there a bearing under the 1/2/r gear and 3/4 gear selector that is seizing up?
[IMG]http://www.cygnusx1.net/Media/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/MT/MT_050.gif[/IMG]
I'm expecting some helpful advice on this one
R154s have so many problems, I don't know why they are so upheld over the W5x. Sure, the W5x might munch itself once in a while, but I've seen way more problems out of the R154. Personally? My W58 is perfect, and has ~170k on it. Smoothest shifts I could ask for and aside from some shifter slop, it's got no issues.
As for your problem, I have no clue what could be causing that. You don't have a slightly bent shaft do you? That's the only thing I can think of other than EXTREMELY seized bearing.
nope, input shaft is fine.
and you don,t hear much W58 broken because nobody with w58 have the power/torque to break one.
The r154 don't have problems at all, except for the thrust washer (and even then, mine is brand new and the trans never been rebuilt or opened in 23yo).
Engine with power/torque and possibility to make a shit ton more (easy to mod a turbo car)
2jzgte--V160 or R154
1jzgte R154
7mgte R154
Engine with almost no power output AND no possibility to make 300rwhp+ (unless you go tarbo)
7mGE w58
2jzGE w58
22re w58
I think I rest my case
People use W5x behind a lots of stuff with plenty of power to break them. It's probably one of the most widely adapted trannies around (next to the Borg Warner T5).
Stock for stock of course nothing has the power to break a W58. You aren't supposed to break stock parts with a stock engine, that's not exactly how things work.
Regardless, I still like the feel of Honda trannies way better than any other transmission I've ever used. I don't know why, they just feel [i]tight[/i]. The W58 feels a bit sloppy in comparison. My friend's [i]T56[/i] behind his LS1 felt sloppy in comparison. And they hold a metric fuckton of power all the time, when they break, they're so cheap to repair that it doesn't even matter. Especially D series boxes.
If only they weren't mounted the wrong way... :(
I put my new wheels on. RS6 9spoke reps wraped in Federal Super Steel 595 235/40/R18
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1031910/Audi/2012-06-25%2017.49.12.jpg[/t]
Absolutely love them. No shakes, No Vib's, No bouncing. But god there is a difference in ride quality.
Who cares Stance > Ride Quality.
Yes I know plasti-dip. Fixing that AFTER i get my hub centers in. Powder coated black here I come with the audi logo a silver.
Also. Dat tread.
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1031910/Audi/2012-06-25%2019.34.26.jpg[/t]
Started bathing my engine parts (lol 5 pieces & 2 rotors) and coating them in oil/WD40 for storage and future build while i await my next paycheck and price estimate :D Got through almost everything before getting bored, only have 2 irons and a housing left and that's it. Aside from the eccentric shaft, now that i think about it. But that's a really simple piece so no biggy.
Oh my god what have I done
[img]http://puu.sh/DNSA[/img]
I noticed a huge crack in the paint on the rear right fender so I poked it with a screwdriver and unraveled this:
[t]http://puu.sh/DNV0[/t][t]http://puu.sh/DNRU[/t]
And then fixed it
[t]http://puu.sh/DNVJ[/t]
It is painted now but the paint is wet and it started to rain so I put it all under the tent by the Beetle and because of the rain, it's kinda dark outside now so I won't get a good picture of it.
I didn't just replace the filler because the filler layer was way too thick so I've been hammering it back into shape first.
I'll take a pic tomorrow when I take off the masking and put it back on.
Next before I completely assemble it I'm gonna fix this:
[t]http://puu.sh/DNTc[/t][t]http://puu.sh/DNTS[/t][t]http://puu.sh/DNUD[/t]
Gonna straighten it all out and paint the inside of the bumper black aswell as the mounting brackets
[editline]26th June 2012[/editline]
Also the engine bay cover doesn't really line up with the body so I've loosened it to bend it into shape
she'll be okay, right?
tell me she'll be okay :suicide:
Yeah, just some dent fixing and rust repair and then it's back on the road.
I'm not taking the front bumper right now because it has the license plate on it so I gotta be sure that I can do the job in a few hours if I suddenly need to drive it
Been towing cars the last three days. The reason? watch this:
[url=http://newportrichey.wtsp.com/news/news/128093-mandatory-evacuations-issued-parts-pasco#.T-pC-osygEc.facebook]New Port Richey Weather[/url]
[QUOTE=Scientwist;36510037]Been towing cars the last three days. The reason? watch this:
[url=http://newportrichey.wtsp.com/news/news/128093-mandatory-evacuations-issued-parts-pasco#.T-pC-osygEc.facebook]New Port Richey Weather[/url][/QUOTE]
That sounds fun. Grab car, tow to safety. (Repeat for a 12hr shift)
Sounds like good money too.
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