The engineering justification for installing them top to bottom is to create the original airtight seal and sound quality intended.
The seal prevents moisture or dust collected on the deck to collect in the speaker's electronics (because the speaker is [i]supposed[/i] to sit over a gasket which goes in the lip under the speaker), and the air gap created by installing the seal wrongly or leaving it out will dull the lower frequency sound generated by the speaker slightly, reducing sound quality as well. In fact, it may soon begin to rattle or buzz as the plastic nuts wear because there is no give (You've mounted metal to metal) and the speaker rubs on the deck.
So you're trading speaker lifespan and quality for an improper, "[i]easier[/i]", and quite ugly installation method. Though to be honest, I have no idea how fumbling underneath trying to install speakers improperly by putting screws through the plastic nuts the wrong way while holding it up as well is in any form easier than setting the speaker and gasket down in the correct position and then putting the screws in normally. It seems like twice the work for doing it the wrong way in the first place.
I mean, to each his own and all. I just don't like seeing things done the wrong way.
Today I stated on my car.
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1031910/Audi/2012-07-24%2016.06.52.jpg[/t]
Headlights OFF yeaa!
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1031910/Audi/2012-07-24%2016.31.24.jpg[/t]
Bumper off!
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1031910/Audi/2012-07-24%2017.04.59.jpg[/t]
How it sits.
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1031910/Audi/2012-07-24%2018.38.36.jpg[/t]
Simple 12$ hose shits on my car.
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1031910/Audi/2012-07-24%2018.38.50.jpg[/t]
But lucky this has gave me a kick in the ass and has told me replace Lower and Upper hoses too.
Now to see if my "Local" euro shop can beat 203.97$ for all 3 hoses.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;36920509][t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1031910/Audi/2012-07-24%2018.38.36.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
Those had best not be your feet.
[QUOTE=bradley;36920422]The engineering justification for installing them top to bottom is to create the original airtight seal and sound quality intended.
The seal prevents moisture or dust collected on the deck to collect in the speaker's electronics (because the speaker is [i]supposed[/i] to sit over a gasket which goes in the lip under the speaker), and the air gap created by installing the seal wrongly or leaving it out will dull the lower frequency sound generated by the speaker slightly, reducing sound quality as well. In fact, it may soon begin to rattle or buzz as the plastic nuts wear because there is no give (You've mounted metal to metal) and the speaker rubs on the deck.
So you're trading speaker lifespan and quality for an improper, "[i]easier[/i]", and quite ugly installation method. Though to be honest, I have no idea how fumbling underneath trying to install speakers improperly by putting screws through the plastic nuts the wrong way while holding it up as well is in any form easier than setting the speaker and gasket down in the correct position and then putting the screws in normally. It seems like twice the work for doing it the wrong way in the first place.
I mean, to each his own and all. I just don't like seeing things done the wrong way.[/QUOTE]
That's a pretty good justification, actually. I'm not thrilled with the seal on the underside of the deck, the deck isn't very flat underneath. The speakers didn't come with gaskets, so I might move them to the topside and just put down a little bit of silicone between the speaker frame and deck.
[QUOTE=bradley;36920617]Those had best not be your feet.[/QUOTE]
Why you not like 10$ Crocks? (Name brand too)
There comfy...
[QUOTE=Used Car Salesman;36920620]That's a pretty good justification, actually. I'm not thrilled with the seal on the underside of the deck, the deck isn't very flat underneath. The speakers didn't come with gaskets, so I might move them to the topside and just put down a little bit of silicone between the speaker frame and deck.[/QUOTE]
A little bit of silicone would work, just let it dry for about an hour with the speaker just sitting on there, and then tighten it down snug. I'd reccomend black, orange is too gunky and sticky, black makes a good seal and looks a bit cleaner.
[editline]24th July 2012[/editline]
[QUOTE=DPKiller;36920645]Why you not like 10$ Crocks? (Name brand too)
There comfy...[/QUOTE]
Who even likes crocks
[editline]24th July 2012[/editline]
you don't count
Not really normal kind of DIY, but I have been lining the belly plate(a bit like a massive sump guard) and interior floors of my tank with Kevlar. That shit is heavy man.
[QUOTE=Used Car Salesman;36920620]That's a pretty good justification, actually. I'm not thrilled with the seal on the underside of the deck, the deck isn't very flat underneath. The speakers didn't come with gaskets, so I might move them to the topside and just put down a little bit of silicone between the speaker frame and deck.[/QUOTE]
Since you're redoing your interior, i'd recommend you invest in a professional window tint, and keep a sun shade on the dashboard when you are parked.
[QUOTE=Siminov;36920900]Since you're redoing your interior, i'd recommend you invest in a professional window tint, and keep a sun shade on the dashboard when you are parked.[/QUOTE]
Totally, but I plan on keeping it in the garage or under cover as much as possible. It's not the whole interior, just the stuff covered with that shitty padded fabric that always rots away. I left the headliner in because I think it was done at some point, and the vinyl dash is in great shape.
I finally got around to figuring out how to take my glove box clips off to check the cabin air filters (It literally took me 2 seconds to figure it out, i don't know what the problem was before.)
[t]http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/7716/wp001356.jpg[/t]
OH GOD WHY
now i have to drive around with those disgusting things in until i can buy new ones(I still don't have a job so money is... tight...) I got as much shit out as possible, but it still smells like B.O. or mold/whatever.
[QUOTE=Dylan_94;36922507]I finally got around to figuring out how to take my glove box clips off to check the cabin air filters (It literally took me 2 seconds to figure it out, i don't know what the problem was before.)
[t]http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/7716/wp001356.jpg[/t]
OH GOD WHY
now i have to drive around with those disgusting things in until i can buy new ones(I still don't have a job so money is... tight...) I got as much shit out as possible, but it still smells like B.O. or mold/whatever.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, I've thought about changing mine but I just don't want to know what it looks like.. I'll have to look into that sometime this week though.
I went to a junk yard with my bud Carlos today and we had a great find, he managed to get a steering column for his truck and I found 4 turbine rims along with the front disks/hubs or whatever for the front of my truck. No more shitty ass steel rims with 5x5.5 bolt pattern, I got 5x4.5 now and that means that I can get some fat fuckin tires for this truck. Dart comes first thigh so I may slap some ratty ass cragar SS rims I have on for fun.
The turbines are a temporary solution, I really like them, hard to find factory Chrysler.
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/ea82f6a0.jpg[/thumb]
My dad has a set of 5x5.5 turbines on his shortbox.
Stoped by my local euro automotive place. 240$ for the hoses. And Overnight shipping.
Meh, at-least I will get a warranty!
5x5.5 are really really hard to find for me, I only seen them once at the junk yard and there was only two of them. Your dad should switch to the smaller bolt pattern, was stupid easy for me.
...why would he switch to the smaller bolt pattern and throw away his 5x5.5 turbines?
Besides, even if he didn't have cool wheels already, 5x5.5 wheels aren't hard to find here. We have had a ton.
[editline]25th July 2012[/editline]
obligatory picture just because I feel like it
[img]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/s720x720/308686_273848579316722_852519939_n.jpg[/img]
Great...
Get a quote for a catback exhaust, which was good at 200 bucks, but they told me the motor mounts are bad.
And I just did a fucking swap too, why did I forget them.
[img_thumb]http://i0.kym-cdn.com/entries/icons/original/000/000/554/facepalm.jpg[/img_thumb]
been busy, everything is done except part of the wiring, electric fans and fluids.
[IMG]http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/7829/img2363si.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/206/img2364j.jpg[/IMG]
Why didn't you clean out your engine bay when doing all this work?
[QUOTE=Siminov;36932386]Great...
Get a quote for a catback exhaust, which was good at 200 bucks, but they told me the motor mounts are bad.
And I just did a fucking swap too, why did I forget them.
[/QUOTE]
Ouch. Never pull an engine and not change the mounts.
Fixed the ignition timing on the bug yesterday, runs great now.
I also removed the front brake callipers since they were sticking on like mad, couldn't even spin the wheels by hand. Gonna clean the and remount them later.
I went for a run when I had taken them off, to try and reach 100km/h (which I succeeded with for the first time (since my brakes had been sticking all the time, which meant I couldn't go so fast))
Stopping was a problem, had to use my handbrake, which only works on the rear left wheel, so the car did steer a bit under braking. Also the stopping distance was around 200-250 meters :v:
[QUOTE=Siminov;36934404]Why didn't you clean out your engine bay when doing all this work?[/QUOTE]
why don't you clean mine?
but seriously I didn,t have much time with my internship/work/parts finding/work around the house.
plus I almost never open my bay in meets and things because people who knows batshit comes and ask if its a 2jz (even when I had the obvious 7m-gte badge up front of the timing cover), then start touching things and messing with my boost controller because they're moron.
but I'll try some industrial paint thinner and a pressure washer, someone told me it does wonder!
[QUOTE=Used Car Salesman;36934608]Ouch. Never pull an engine and not change the mounts.[/QUOTE]
I checked the records, the mounts are from 2004, I thought they lasted longer than that?
[QUOTE=Siminov;36938198]I checked the records, the mounts are from 2004, I thought they lasted longer than that?[/QUOTE]
mine are 23yo, still holding
Mine are 27 in the Celica, still going good. But only 12 in the Civic and those are destroyed lol.
[QUOTE=bradley;36938532]Mine are 27 in the Celica, still going good. But only 12 in the Civic and those are destroyed lol.[/QUOTE]
Brad I think you mean 21 for the civic?
[QUOTE=ThePfeiffenator;36938933]Brad I think you mean 21 for the civic?[/QUOTE]
Woah yeah, my fingers went crazy there. I typed it backwards.
Yeah, it's just weird how the motor mounts could just, go bad...
I remember when they were out of the car a month ago, they looked fine.
I looked at them today and "squish"
I don't think that massive oil blowout could've caused it?
[QUOTE=bradley;36931899]...why would he switch to the smaller bolt pattern and throw away his 5x5.5 turbines?
Besides, even if he didn't have cool wheels already, 5x5.5 wheels aren't hard to find here. We have had a ton.
[editline]25th July 2012[/editline]
obligatory picture just because I feel like it
[IMG]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/s720x720/308686_273848579316722_852519939_n.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
I've always liked this truck, mine is probably going to end up looking like it, is it factory black (I don't think they came black) or painted that way. What runs does it have now. I'm thinking of either Cragar SS, torque thrust, keystones, or weld pro stars
[editline]26th July 2012[/editline]
[quote]
[IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/Truck/78e4713b.jpg[/IMG]
[/quote]
Brother trucks
What runs?
It's painted black, we painted it because it was blue and had a brown bed. The bed was fucked, we got another bed, now we have to repaint the bed before it goes back on.
Also broke a rear spring on it a long while back so it's been sitting. We've got springs now though.
Sorry, you need to Log In to post a reply to this thread.