Ebay headers only come with one o2 bung, mainly because they get installed in EFs and the likes, which only have one o2 sensor wired, then people get chipped ECUs to run only one O2 sensor.
The o2 sensors should be one upper and one lower for OBD1, for OBD0 there are two up top, but you only need one in the first place. Get a B16 header with an upper bung, order a chipped PM6 or PR4 and run one-wire using the AC relay (Unless you use AC, then you can have them chip your ECU for single O2.
Just trying to save you some pain-in-the-ass wiring, I'm currently piecing together a harness in my CRX for a similar setup to you. I'm running one O2.
There's no PS/Cruise/AC in the car, I kinda wanted to make a fancy kill switch thing involving certain switches being required to be on. I was also planning to put on some 4dr door handles to remove the keyholes and go with a cheap keyless entry with various protections so someone couldn't drive off with it using just a hammer and a flathead screwdriver..
I don't really have a problem with getting my buddy to run more wires from the ECU since most of it is still there and working okay to my knowledge. The plug which hooks into the ECT appears to have been ripped off at some point and there's some random cut wires behind the motor near the alternator which I'm suspicious of. It's a mini-wiring nightmare but luckily everything hasn't been messed with so it's just playing cleanup from a shitty job.
I'm hoping to get this running again with as little cash as possible. I'll definitely be getting a B16 header and I'll just simply have bungs welded in so that eventually I can get to OBD1 someday if I plan to keep the car. However it just needs a new wire ran for the second o2 sensor which doesn't seem like it would be too hard and generic o2 sensors are dirt cheap.
The AC vtec thing is pretty interesting, I'm really not sure though as I'm pretty sure the previous owners hacked away at "unneeded" plugs in the engine bay so it probably would only be worth it if I didn't want to add a pin to the harness.
The last time I actually took a look at the ECU or the wiring was almost exactly a year ago so some of the details are a little hazy, I'll have to take a look at it all tomorrow and see what's actually up with it as I didn't know quite as much as I do now about all this.
If I buy some decent "universal" o2 sensors it wouldn't cost much either since they have to be rewired anyways. I was doing a ton of searching all around since o2 sensors seem to be stupidly expensive. I found that I could just order 4 wire ones with the honda plug on them off a 92 NSX which are $38 for my wonderful OBD2 car which needs one in the cat and $16.50 for some universal ones for the DA when I get around to ordering parts for both my cars.
[url]http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1000854,parttype,5132,a,www.google.com%2BSearch%2Bfor%2B1992%2BACURA%2BNSX%2B3.0L%2BV6[/url]
[url]http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,catalog,182,partnum,29100,d,NTK_29100.html[/url]
Going for the chipped ECU seems like a nice idea and all but I just don't see the point yet when for a bit more I could go OBD1 which is a little more widely supported and common. If I go with an SI header it will still have the right bung for it too so down the road I could do that much easier.
I'll definitely keep this stuff in mind though when it comes time to address the problem. I'm going to bug the shit out of a buddy of mine to buy a jug of oil and a new filter and I can attempt to start it tomorrow if it's not too damn hot..
If you're already OBD1 don't "Convert" to OBD0, I'm not saying to do that. Either way you can chip an ECU to eliminate the second O2 sensor as it isn't technically needed. OBD0 and OBD1 chip out the SAME way, OBD1 is no more widely supported than OBD0 as they work [i]almost[/i] identical to each other, the main difference being 4 wire o2 and the CKP in an OBD1 dizzy sending lower signal than that of the OBD0 one.
All I was saying is that if you need a header, it's easier to go with the ebay header and then chip an ECU to only need one of the sensors, rather than going through the hassle of having someone weld a bung on an ebay header and (if not already done) running four extra ugly wires in your bay.
TL;DR
Stock OBD1 VTEC requires two sensors
Get ebay header with one bung
Chip OBD1 ECU to require only one sensor
If you already have an OBD1 ECU [i]that's great[/i]. All you have to do is buy the socket and order a FACTORY basemap from Xenocron for your specific engine with one o2 sensor eliminated. Cake!
It's easier, cleaner, neater, and if your harness isn't too hacked it only requires extra wires for VTEC to be run (if they haven't already done so!)
I just went and and checked and it's a PR3 so it's OBD0 and the harness and car is a 90' so it's OBD0 as well. It has some writing which isn't even legible(and upside down atm) other than "DA6" on the faceplate and quite a few more of the wires are cut and spliced and hacked than I thought so I'll have to look into what is even being messed with tomorrow.
Everything should already be ran though as vtec worked and it ran pretty well the one time I got it to work before it went back to limp mode when the couple wires I touched to the ECT fell off. It was also running good apparently when the buddy who is helping me now jumped timing by taking it to redline after we hooked it back up which prompted the ex-friend who I loaned money skipped out on it..
tl,dr:
People talking about bieber boxes
:)
<3
[QUOTE=slayer3032;37227126]I just went and and checked and it's a PR3 so it's OBD0 and the harness and car is a 90' so it's OBD0 as well. It has some writing which isn't even legible(and upside down atm) other than "DA6" on the faceplate and quite a few more of the wires are cut and spliced and hacked than I thought so I'll have to look into what is even being messed with tomorrow.
Everything should already be ran though as vtec worked and it ran pretty well the one time I got it to work before it went back to limp mode when the couple wires I touched to the ECT fell off. It was also running good apparently when the buddy who is helping me now jumped timing by taking it to redline after we hooked it back up which prompted the ex-friend who I loaned money skipped out on it..[/QUOTE]
PR3 can be OBD1 as well... What year is your car?
[QUOTE=bradley;37230632]PR3 can be OBD1 as well... What year is your car?[/QUOTE]
yo mang
my first ecu was repaired successfully. Vrooming 1jz like it should :)
Found out my A/C system is bone dry, and that my oil cap and dipstick need new O rings.
So that leaves me with
Exhaust System for car
Motor mounts for car, poly (84) + (59)
Correct Intercooler brackets
Shifter linkage bushings
Oil cap seal
Oil dipstick seal
Sidemarkers
Next oil change:
Install oil cooler
Oil cooler sender
Oil cooler Lines
Turbo Oil feed Relocate
Install oil press sensor
Trans cooler
Trans cooler lines
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;37232430]yo mang
my first ecu was repaired successfully. Vrooming 1jz like it should :)[/QUOTE]
That's great man! Vidjas?
I didn't work on the Burban today but I went over to a buddies house to figure out what was wrong with his blazer he just got. No power steering fluid at all. He's putting some in now.
But I had him do me a favor and get a video of me taking off in the Burban with the straight pipes.
[video=youtube;5db_4Jc0wY0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5db_4Jc0wY0[/video]
Ugh it sounds so sexy.
[QUOTE=bradley;37236802]That's great man! Vidjas?[/QUOTE]
Vidjas when I fix my knock sensor because it only run good offboost with a KS code in the ecu.
Don't worry I'll make one.
Since this is a DIY:
I replaced my hatch release cable, had to undo half of the interior. PITA
Cleaned up my wiring (a lot)
Drove 250km to get my repaired ecu.
installed some wiring for my sub/amp. I only need power cable et power ground now
The backseats won't be usable anymore, not that I invited anyone back there as there is no place at all for anyone beyond 5'2". I'll use the seat for my subwoofer/amp and the seat belts to hold it down ahaha
[QUOTE=bradley;37230632]PR3 can be OBD1 as well... What year is your car?[/QUOTE]
Oh, I wasn't aware of that.. It's a 90' so everything should be full OBD0 but later tonight when it cools off a bit I'll go chasing down what wires are being messed with in the harness.
'90 should be OBD0, you should just have your PR3 chipped and remove the one o2 sensor and whatnot.
Installed my subwoofer (god damn 6gau is expensive).
reinstalled my interior, back seat.
wired my safc II
mounted my aem uego in a appropriate spot (made the cigar lighter hole bigger and shoved it in, look stock as fuck)
shit's funny because my battery was at 9v when I first tested my subwoof and the headunit kept shutdding down, that was funny lol. Now that I recharged it, it's all mighty fucking fine. New ecu is still alive and doing great.
only thing left is figure out why my sway bar make klunking noise while clearing everything and fix my knock sensors (haven't got to that yet, tomorrow).
I might have a slow bhg... Pressure tester to 25psi dropped to 23psi and stayed there...
Why would you even use 6 gauge? Honestly in almost any application 8 gauge is plenty. Also, I buy my kits on Amazon for ~$20-30 and they're often 4 gauge.
because race car
Took off badges and giant ugly N sticker
[img]http://puu.sh/VTFp[/img]
[img]http://puu.sh/VTFK[/img]
[img]http://puu.sh/VTFZ[/img]
[editline]16th August 2012[/editline]
and fixed a dent and alot of small rust spots
why would you put an ugly N sticker on your car anyway
fixed my knock sensor wiring (I think).
I'll be able to test in ~24hours after the jbweld has cured hehe
JBweld, because solder is so pasé.
[QUOTE=Banana Lord.;37270960]why would you put an ugly N sticker on your car anyway[/QUOTE]
Because I'm Norwegian and that's what we used before the euro plates
[QUOTE=Banana Lord.;37270960]why would you put an ugly N sticker on your car anyway[/QUOTE]
because race car once again
I need to go find a lug wrench so I can pop this wheel off my car. I think the ABS-style caliper brackets are what's making it so I can't run my 13s. Going to see how big of a spacer I'd need to run my lightweight VX wheels. They'd look good flush anyways.
[editline]16th August 2012[/editline]
Meh, brakes are too big. As soon as I set the wheel up there it came back to me. The diameter of the rotor alone is big enough to rub on the wheel. Fuckin' huge brakes... *mumble muble*.... HX wheels would be nice but everyone is too proud of them.
Anyways, slapped these Si wheels that used to be on the 'Rex on it. They need tires but they are relatively clean. I have center caps but the lug nuts I have are too long. Eh.
[img]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/417256_451586378209607_314898201_n.jpg[/img]
Drove my untagged Supra to work, gave a buddy a ride to the store, discovered the predictable slight rear end wiggle on aggressive braking, then did some donuts in a empty lot behind the Warehouse I work in. Drove to the DOL by my house, paid $200 to register it and get tags. Sitting in a turn lane right after leaving the DOL, windows down, sunroof open, Stairway to heaven playing on the stereo through Pandora, another MKII rolls by. Exchanged waves, and drove on my merry way.
Oh and I cleaned the Air filter, drained the oil, but bought an Oil filter that will probably fit, but it's way smaller than the one that's on it now. Gonna see how my Valve stem seals like Castrol GTX high mileage 10w40(don't think the local Autozone caries anything heavier) tomorrow, and then wash her.
[editline]17th August 2012[/editline]
Me and my brother might go to this too:
[img]http://docrace.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/battleofages.jpg[/img]
Guess its kinda AA related since its for my shop
made holder for a fan i got from my aunt.
[img]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/405240_10151343494688154_780285101_n.jpg[/img]
[img]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/422549_10151343494913154_2117087806_n.jpg[/img]
[img]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s720x720/547341_10151343495088154_778384588_n.jpg[/img]
[img]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/s720x720/264782_10151343495448154_1719709752_n.jpg[/img]
[img]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s720x720/547076_10151343495723154_1324483488_n.jpg[/img]
[editline]18th August 2012[/editline]
Going for the gaudiest paint possible, going to put a lime green mesh cage over the front and back of the fan (the blade area)
You should make fans for my warehouse. It's hot as fuck and all our fans are busted up or bent from falling over/getting hit by forklifts, etc.
We'll supply the pallets.
Pads and rotors on my Cavalier today. For about a week or two one of the driver side pads has been dragging on the edge of the rotor. Got all the parts and tools in order, had the job done in my driveway in a little over an hour.
Bonus! All parts were under warranty, so it just cost me the time.
I went and checked through the wiring on my DA last night, everything actually looked fairly decent and the previous owners actually wired it up with only the common misconception that you can splice the two o2 sensors together. The ECU is an untouched OBD0 PR3, judging by what's written on the front in english and not japanese or whatever language I can't read it's a ECU out of a DA6 with a B16A MT.
Tonight when it cools off I'll fix up main ground, check up on the knock sensor which has cut wires in the vicinity of it and see if my attempt at fixing the lock mechanism in the drivers door worked so that you can open your own door.. I'll probably just replace it all though since I'll be putting different door handles on it anyways. I'd try to get it started tomorrow but I'm going with a buddy out to the dunes with his new Tacoma for his birthday hopefully.
bought another 5.0. it's from an 88 mustang and it only had 87,000 miles on it (or so i was told).
[img]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5698103/302%20build/IMG_20120818_225127.jpg[/img]
[img]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5698103/302%20build/IMG_20120818_225137.jpg[/img]
[img]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5698103/302%20build/IMG_20120818_225149.jpg[/img]
going for 347 stroker with forged internals ready for boost or something for a mustang in the future that i dont have yet lol
Drove the supra.
adjusted idle and clutch pedal freeplay.
Idle is surging, I think ecu is crapping (again).
raised boost a bit (was at stock level, 8psi)
edit: Lol nvm, ecu fine, idle isn't surging anymore.
The thing is, this newer gen ecu has much much more capacity to adapt and learn from the engine and conditions than the 7m one, leaving me surprised most of the time when it fight me back on a lot of things (idle, closed loop tuning and etc..)
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