[QUOTE=dbk21894;37649157]Okay...so some morons over at mbenz decided that when they made my car tht everything should be vacuum driven. Like, everything. The central locking system, A/C system, all of the vents in the car, etc.
Well it appears that the HVAC vacuum system has got a leak. There are 7 modules that operate the vent louvers. When I step on the gas, engine vacuum goes away. There should be enough residual pressure in the system to keep the vents open. However, the center vents close and the whole system goes to a factory default setting with the side and defrost vents on. This gets really annoying in the summer as the defrost vents fog the whole windshield. I am planning on replacing all off the modules, but it is not a small project. Takes a minimum of 5.5 hours because the entire German over-engineered dashboard has to come out.
Also my fuel gauge doesn't work but I know how to fix that and I'm doing that when I take the dash apart.[/QUOTE]
Got the same thing on the 240, except when I step on the gas and hit boost, my floor vents open. Honestly, I don't care enough about it to really go and fix all the lines. I heard it may be a bad vac check valve that would cause something like that to happen too.
[QUOTE=TrippyJuicyj;37655734]the look im going for, I guess if you dont know what rs' look like on a car it doesn't do justice:
[IMG]http://www.esmwheels.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=830&g2_serialNumber=2[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.felgen-man.de/E30neu/E30-9.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://www.tunershop.com/xt/images/page_content/galerie/bmw/bmw_e30_bbs_rs_01_bild2_gr.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
I like the retro, "period-correct" looks these cars can rock. Same thing with my Nissan 240sx, it's called Dorisha. Drift-ready 80-90's look
[QUOTE=Siminov;37659088]Got the same thing on the 240, except when I step on the gas and hit boost, my floor vents open. Honestly, I don't care enough about it to really go and fix all the lines. I heard it may be a bad vac check valve that would cause something like that to happen too.[/QUOTE]
check valve could do it too...but I think one of the vacuum bladders in an actuator is burst.
I installed a 12v compressor and an air horn into my car today, it's not that loud though, mostly because it's only one horn (I'll add another when I get a T-tube) and because the compressor doesn't put out that much power.
It's basically a must that when you get a truck in my town you get a train horn. I'm gonna be like 1puglife going around sunting people...
What?
Sunting: basically just scaring the shit out of people by honking at them. Some weird canadian redneck came up with the term, along with chooching things, cheeching them, a lot of other weird shit. Look up 1puglife.
Silly canadians. Apparently a lot of people hate 1puglife.
Sold a old OEM clutch+pressure plate I had laying around.
Had a nice long chat about supra with the guy.
overall a nice day I'd say
DOSH GRAB IT WHILE YOU CAN LADS!
Got mah paycheck
Got mah cash money dolla bills
Gonna take route a- ask bro's friend where exactly the shop he got his car 'passed' for inspection at, to confirm that i did go to the right place and that they dont do it anymore
If that fails route B comes, I order a cutout, a cat, and a muffler, but sloppily connect them because i still need the intermediate pipe.
[QUOTE=Concur;37670336]DOSH GRAB IT WHILE YOU CAN LADS!
Got mah paycheck
Got mah cash money dolla bills
Gonna take route a- ask bro's friend where exactly the shop he got his car 'passed' for inspection at, to confirm that i did go to the right place and that they dont do it anymore
If that fails route B comes, I order a cutout, a cat, and a muffler, but sloppily connect them because i still need the intermediate pipe.[/QUOTE]
ftfy
[IMG]http://gifsoup.com/webroot/animatedgifs2/1800661_o.gif[/IMG]
I wish I could get paid so I can fix my carb :(
New bed, new springs on the black Dodge:
[img]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/73975_462871693747742_28329623_n.jpg[/img]
So, I got my oil-pan, timing stuff, and heads off the Cobra motor, and it still won't turn when I put a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt. Something has it seized up. I took a few rod caps off, and the bearing on Cyl #4 was in three pieces. The thing is though, the motor ran (but knocked) when I took it out of the car. What could cause it NOT to spin now?
How long has it sat? Could just be a froze up now. Have you taken off any of the main caps? If none of the pistons were frozen in the cylinders I suspect a big bad main bearing failure.
None of the main caps have been taken off, just a few rod caps, its been sitting about 8-9 months. It ran before we took it out.
It could have rusted up in that amount of time. Have you pulled the heads off? With the rod caps off, can you pop the pistons up into the cylinders?
The heads are still on the motor, Ill try tomorrow, Im half asleep right now though haha.
I've replaced the seat adjustment fuse like 20 times. It's getting annoying and I wish it wouldn't randomly blow the fuse when I move the seat or steering wheel.
bypass the fuse
[sp]and burn your car down[/sp]
Seat motor going bad and drawing too much current?
Got my fender liner fixed today, they ended up just trimming some plastic off.
But I went to change my battery, and that son of a bitch is corroded. So I do the baking soda and water thing, let it sit for a few, finally got the bulk of the corrosion off.
Went to take the negative terminal off, since I'm pretty sure that's what you take off first. The fucking nut was so stuck, and it was so thin and corroded that it just broke and now my car won't start for obvious reasons.
Here's what the terminal looks like now:
[IMG]http://puu.sh/16rvd/f1d119d23614ea460f97bdfc5fc0590e[/IMG]
It looks like the terminal... leaked a bit? so this battery is dead as dead gets. My starter doesn't even crank any more and the lights are dim as they get. I already have replacement clamps and the little felt insulators to stop this from happening again - but how do I replace the clamp? Snip the wire and then adhere it to the new clamp basically?
There's a good amount of slack in the cable, I'd reckon a good 2-3 inches of cable are still available. Using what little experience I have from electrical work in the past, I'd assume obviously clip the cable free of the corroded part, but leave enough insulation so that the wire end can recess into the insulated part, correct?
yep
OK. I will do that.
I am glad I bought those nice brass terminal clamps instead of this paperthin copper shit though
I bought my shocks and struts to replace my 12 year old trucks suspension because it feels like shit when I drive. Taking care of that next week when the parts come in from Toyota. For once the parts at the dealer were actually cheaper.
[QUOTE=Protocol7;37716872]Got my fender liner fixed today, they ended up just trimming some plastic off.
But I went to change my battery, and that son of a bitch is corroded. So I do the baking soda and water thing, let it sit for a few, finally got the bulk of the corrosion off.
Went to take the negative terminal off, since I'm pretty sure that's what you take off first. The fucking nut was so stuck, and it was so thin and corroded that it just broke and now my car won't start for obvious reasons.
Here's what the terminal looks like now:
[IMG]http://puu.sh/16rvd/f1d119d23614ea460f97bdfc5fc0590e[/IMG]
It looks like the terminal... leaked a bit? so this battery is dead as dead gets. My starter doesn't even crank any more and the lights are dim as they get. I already have replacement clamps and the little felt insulators to stop this from happening again - but how do I replace the clamp? Snip the wire and then adhere it to the new clamp basically?
There's a good amount of slack in the cable, I'd reckon a good 2-3 inches of cable are still available. Using what little experience I have from electrical work in the past, I'd assume obviously clip the cable free of the corroded part, but leave enough insulation so that the wire end can recess into the insulated part, correct?[/QUOTE]
yeah, that looks pretty fucked
[QUOTE=slayer3032;37717490]yeah, that looks pretty fucked[/QUOTE]
Oh yeah. It's an old battery. Really old - it has Jan 1996 stamped on it.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;37717490]yeah, that looks pretty fucked[/QUOTE]
not really. that's just some copper sulfate because it is not sealed near the pos terminal anymore.
a battery can go on for years like that, depend on the leak and if you clean the terminal (in this case it was probably too severe and it went fubar)
if your battery is starting to do that but is still working pretty good: DON'T WAIT, go all vaseline on your terminals asses
my battery that died in less than two years was leaking all kinds of acid out of the vent port and pooling at the bottom plate and corroding the shit out of it.
it got replaced because it couldn't hold enough amps anymore. it was rated at 800 cranking amps, but was only delivering 400...which wasn't enough to start the car.
fiddled with my $5 yardsale carb today.. seems like i'll need to take it back off and tear it down again, going to give it one more try tomorrow but it just doesn't want to cooperate. can't get the idle to come down and the thing is running wicked rich, probably totally fouled my plugs so i guess i should invest in at least one new set of plugs if not two because i reckon it'll probably happen again
oh well, i expected as much when i put a carburetor that's been sitting in some guy's garage for who knows how many years on the car with minimal cleaning/fiddling. going to order up at least one rebuild kit if not two (one for either carburetor). honestly i was amazed i could even get the car to run half way decent let alone maintain an idle, even if it was slobbering rich
should probably look at the jets and such in the yardsale carb, i'd expect they're all the original sizes but who knows. could be anything at this point, a little piece of dirt or a tired o-ring would be more than enough to cause my problem - let alone having some crazy rich jetting or something silly like that
e:
and checking my coil would probably be a good idea..
thank goodness i just bought a new battery, the old one was ~15 years old so i think all the cranking i did today would've murdered that poor thing.
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