fuck you
[editline]19th March 2011[/editline]
Greddy T518Z
Chopped off more useless bits on the motorcycle. Its now a one seater!
Put a new injectors on the 96 Cummins, and put some wheel bearings and a race in the 74 J10
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[IMG]http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f166/BassnTruck/Cars/100_5186-1.jpg[/IMG]
[QUOTE=edberg;28680951]fuck you
[editline]19th March 2011[/editline]
Greddy T518Z[/QUOTE]
arharharhar
you had me for a second
but mein googol skills are gross mein freund
yeah it's some crazy tyte jdm turbo
All Mitsubishi turbos are made in Japan lol.
somebody tell me what a wastegate is because i don't know anything about tarbos
[QUOTE=Hell Strike;28687270]somebody tell me what a wastegate is because i don't know anything about tarbos[/QUOTE]
A wastegate leads exhaust gases away from the turbine wheel to regulate the turbine speed. The reason why you have it is to regulate the maximum boost pressure.
Imagine blowing through a straw at a small fan. The fan would keep spinning faster until you were out of breath. Now imagine you actually had two straws, and one was facing the fan and the other not. You cover the tip of the one not facing the fan and start blowing into them. Once the fan has reached a certain speed you stop covering the other straw however amount you want to regulate how fast the fan spins.
That's essentially what a wastegate does, regulates the speed of the turbo by letting the exhaust gasses bypass the turbo.
I spent quite a few hours yesterday attaching a 2 cold cathode blue tubes to the footwells of my car. Attached it to the cig lighter power source. I only got the drivers side working, the passenger side didn't have a long enough cable so i need to buy another £2 kit and extend a 12v wire so i can place the inverter next to it.
Changing out the lift bolds on my celica, just got the valve cover off, ill put some pics up later.
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Well, shit, the bolt on the intake side is broken off, I'm not too surprised that it is, but still. Probably gonna go though all the shenanigans to get the rest of the bolt out tomorrow.
Fixed vacuum leak on my friend's EK today.
As I was working on it some big black truck driver with a gold chain walks up, disses our cars because we are running D series, and tells us to "quit playing around" and go K series.
Because we can totally pull thousands of dollars out of our ass and do K swaps on our DD's.
He kept bragging about his "built" 300hp K20 in his EK hatch. I mean, shit. If he's getting 300hp out of a built K20, it must not be well built. There are D series hitting that on stock sleeves with a block guard and tiny turbo running moderate amounts of boost on a good tune.
Sorry, I just don't like it when some rich dickhead disses our cars because we can't afford the shit he's got.
tell him to suck Bisimotos black you know what, 750hp from a D16A6.
[QUOTE=bradley;28700707]Fixed vacuum leak on my friend's EK today.
As I was working on it some big black truck driver with a gold chain walks up, disses our cars because we are running D series, and tells us to "quit playing around" and go K series.
Because we can totally pull thousands of dollars out of our ass and do K swaps on our DD's.
He kept bragging about his "built" 300hp K20 in his EK hatch. I mean, shit. If he's getting 300hp out of a built K20, it must not be well built. There are D series hitting that on stock sleeves with a block guard and tiny turbo running moderate amounts of boost on a good tune.
Sorry, I just don't like it when some rich dickhead disses our cars because we can't afford the shit he's got.[/QUOTE]
maybe he meant it was a N/A build?
It was an N/A build, still no sense for it to have ~300 bhp for what he said he had in it. He's even spraying. I don't really understand how you can spend so much for so little.
And Bisi's D16[b]Z[/b]6 is 700+ bhp and is daily driven, but it's a sleeved and guarded block, with everything personally designed by Bisi himself. One day I'd like to have his setup... But I'm sure he's got thousands in it. Although really, horsepower for horsepower, if you went with the same exact setup Bisi had and ANY K setup, you'd have less in the D series. They're just cheaper and a more well known platform.
Sure, K series is new and it's the "in" thing for Honda boys, but veteran D slammers will still spank those K guys any day. There are F series guys still outrunning K motors... The cost just isn't quite worth it yet, seeing as how a K-swapped car will forever have to be a K-swapped car (you practically have to destroy the old mount locations to fit the damn thing in anything other than late model Civics).
Spray should put him damn near 500hp. I know a lot of guys in the game running Ks.
I've talked to bisi about the setup, and he's a regular on the wagovan forum. It started life as an A6. Can't really call it a D anything after he got done with it, though.
Around here, I've built a lot of motors for guys and swapped a lot of cars. Everyone thinks if you don't have at least a B you ain't got shit. That's why I'm building a fucking crazy single slammer setup, cause I want to shit on all the guys cars I've built with a "piece of shit".
Also, Ks are fucking wicked for all motor, not so much boost yet. anything can be built for that though. Fuck, bisi has an all motor F22 insight that's the fastest car in the world in its class.
//edit: ASDJKASHDJ YOU GOT ME SIDETRACKED
Bought the iron for my new manifold today. If the weather is nice again tomorrow, I'll have it fabbed up. Then it's almost time to pull the motor in my wagon and start building.
I'm a total single cam guy too, probably the only guy I know running a DPFI turbo setup. Everyone told me "it'll fall apart" or "that thing will probably explode on you" but I know what I'm doing >_< It's been a great DD, it's nothing to show anyone up just something to make a stock CRX not a crawling shell of a sportscar.
I've thought about putting the entire turbo setup onto my EJ1, block guarding it, head studs, chipping the P28 and going up to 12-15 PSI, but it's an auto FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF and I don't have the money to be doing tranny swaps. So it'll stay in the Rex, especially now, I recently went through my whole setup and redid it correctly since the one who originally installed the kit used a cheap manifold, cheap oil line, cheap vacuum lines, broken MAP, etc.
Anyways. What exactly are you building?
Got 2 days in 1
First day I worked on lockpicking my blue 1985 dodge ram, I got pissed after 5 hours and resorted to a screwdriver, which didn't work. The screwdriver attempt took 2 hours so it carried onto the next day. So here is the next day, I geONI. The truck antackle out the floor mats, which were all wet due to going In and out and the key to the truck is there, but it didn't work which royally pissed me off.
So I resorted to hammering the steering column till I could get at the lock which proved successful. This led to the truck not looking so good, but it wasn't in good condition to start. I tried to get it to start and get this, the truck has been sitting for half a year, unstarted, uncharged battery, and 40+ years old and rusty as heck and it starts up with 3 pumps of the gas pedal. First try!
I shit my pants with joy.
Day 2 I focused on swapping out the valve covers due to having nothing to do. We have a smashed up 1968 barracuda with a 318 which I took the valve covers off. After cleaning them off I go to put them on but I couldent due the brake master cylinder In the way. So I stuck the covers with the other 3 or so for other engine and focused on redoing the stock ones.
I first started off by cleaning them out with varsol, this took Around a hour to get a good clean job done on them. Then I sand blasted them, half and half job which I could have done better but I was low on sand. Then I painted it black with 3 layers of paint, this took around half a hour. The finished product was amazing though, it sticks out like a sore thumb compared to all the other rusty parts on the engine. Was too cold to do the other one so I'll focus on that tomorrow. That and the headers and possibly intake manifold. I'll look into getting pictures also.
[QUOTE=bradley;28701410]
Anyways. What exactly are you building?[/QUOTE]
huehuehuehehehahahahaha
Single cam JDM ZC, full D16Y8 manifold, 750CC injectors and two auxiliary injectors in the manifold, Water/Meth, Chipped running Chrome, Custom tarbo manifold, custom tarbo manifold, Mitsu. T25 and a Garrett GT45. Low boost for now, probably 6-8psi. When I get more money together, the block will be sleeved, maybe stroked with a D17 crank, Weiseco dometops, etc. Tial 44mm, maybe bigger. Need two of them. All in my civic wagon.
When I get tired of this setup, I'll transfer it over to a built B20 or LS motor.
Nice, I like! :D
[QUOTE=Roflnocerous;28710339]huehuehuehehehahahahaha
Single cam JDM ZC, full D16Y8 manifold, 750CC injectors and two auxiliary injectors in the manifold, Water/Meth, Chipped running Chrome, Custom tarbo manifold, custom tarbo manifold, Mitsu. T25 and a [b]Garrett GT45[/b]. Low boost for now, probably 6-8psi. When I get more money together, the block will be sleeved, maybe stroked with a D17 crank, Weiseco dometops, etc. Tial 44mm, maybe bigger. Need two of them. All in my civic wagon.
[/QUOTE]
:aaaaa:
Thats a 1100hp turbo!!!!!
I would think a GT40 would be plenty
;)
Compound turbos are fun
do you think you could make a quick crash course on compound systems or link me to a good one? from the pic i think you posted it looked like the smaller turbo would be a restriction in airflow unless there was a bypass pipe i dont remember seeing
Bypass pipe = 42 or 44mm wastegates, they direct a lot of air around the small turbo to the big one.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y-Me6yWApzY[/media]
were 2 windshield at???
[img]http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/197095_10150129346474035_624679034_6419045_565412_n.jpg[/img]
[QUOTE=lemon_lover;28713612]do you think you could make a quick crash course on compound systems or link me to a good one? from the pic i think you posted it looked like the smaller turbo would be a restriction in airflow unless there was a bypass pipe i dont remember seeing[/QUOTE]
It's kind of hard to explain. But the important thing is, that once the smaller turbo spools and starts feeding the bigger turbo, the air is actually compressed twice meaning if you run 20psi on the small turbo and 20psi on the big turbo, that's 40psi. That's why it's called a 'compound' turbo setup.
Here's an awesome thread if you care to read it.
[url]http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/336541-my-compound-turbo-set-up.html[/url]
i say just get one big turbo and spray it for spool
also relocated amp and strapped down my box better so it doesn't move around anymore
and where the fuck is my 18g :argh:
[editline]21st March 2011[/editline]
also do all 18g's have the 8cm hotside or is that what greddy did to it?
[editline]21st March 2011[/editline]
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[img_thumb]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/3702776/Photo%20Dump/Photo%20Mar%2021%2C%2012%2042%2012%20PM.jpg[/img_thumb]
All Mitsu turbos should have a 6 or 7cm hotside. I think the 8cm hotside is for Subarus.
it's supposed to match up to the 2.5 motors, most of the 2.0's run a 7cm hotside from what i've seen
just wondering because I could have gotten an "average" 18g for a bit cheaper if I look around
[QUOTE=MikeL14;28728300]
Here's an awesome thread if you care to read it.
[url]http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/336541-my-compound-turbo-set-up.html[/url][/QUOTE]
Read every single page the other day actually, lol. Reading the one the RX7 guys had right now, and looking at the Supra kits a bit.
It really is going to be ridiculously overkill in a FWD honda, but I'm doing it for proof of concept and learning, not for making a fast car.
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