I'll probably put my freshly painted skid plate back on today. Maybe play around with my license plate lamp
gonna get some shady tire shop to rebalance my wheels in b4 they romp on it again
[QUOTE=Waffle99;38259959]Might get to do my trans pan drop and filter change as well as my friends. He has been complaining about a low growl in the mornings coming from below him and I looked up a vid of a cold start trans. Same problem. 98 4Runner 5VZ and 00 Taco 2RZ. I am just doing mine as preventative maintenance. For his, would there already be damage done if it sounds like this?
It only does it for a little bit when warming up.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SNm9kiw9Dk[/media]
[editline]31st October 2012[/editline]
and i know that is not near the same vehicle as the one im talking about but we dont get up around the same time so I cant get a recording[/QUOTE]
Sounds like it could be a clogged trans filter making the pump whine in oil starvation, more when its cold as the oil is more dense and has even more trouble getting past the filter.
I dont think the transmission is going bad, just needs to have new filter and fluid.
i found some leakses
[IMG]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-fHOqM2rlBug/UJGQU_A5MPI/AAAAAAAAB0E/svVmabfmafQ/s640/2012-10-31_16-45-48_707.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-y90PNVrEOp0/UJGQZ8iX4yI/AAAAAAAAB0U/f6GmpGWVZZs/s1152/2012-10-31_16-46-08_810.jpg[/IMG]
also steering damper leaking
[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2Xjs-zK0nTQ/UJGQcNK5YmI/AAAAAAAAB0c/9bhsrByVsVc/s1152/2012-10-31_16-46-19_316.jpg[/IMG]
and its leaking at the back near the transmission somewhere. need to get it up on a lift
well, today was.. a total flop
finally re-bled the brakes on Bug #2. Figured I'd go for a quick jaunt, just see how she runs and all.
Pour about 2 gallons of gas into the tank out of a jerry can, start her up (fires right up, idles pretty smooth all considered).
Get to the end of the driveway, realize the rear brakes seem to be seized (or just adjusted too tightly, i adjusted them when the brake line was leaking but they were bled). Whatever, I'm already out of the driveway so I go down to the end of the street to turn around and come back to park..
Get down about halfway to the end of the street, car starts to have even less power (mind you, I was pegging it in first and barely moving - the engine wanted to die the whole time). Realize there's a trail of liquid following me, I go to make a u-turn on the a street that is T'd with mine.. Car dies right in the middle of the street. Fuck. Can't push the car, the brakes are seized as I'd already discovered. Fuck. Realize at this point that it REEKS of gasoline. Fuck. Suddenly there's a lake of gas under the car. Fuck. Pull the hood latch release, the little handle + the attached cable pulls right out in my hand. Fuck. Hood's stuck closed, gas pouring out of the car. Fuck.
Get my pops to come down the street with the work van and a chain, tie her off and drag her back up the street. Manage to pop open the hood (no idea how, seems like it just wasn't latched all the way or something - the hood sits a little jacked up on the passenger side. Pull out the gas tank.. Realize I'm a dumbass. I had put on a fuel line the other day and attached it to the tank + the fuel line going to the engine - but I had pulled it off the other day to pull out the tank to get to the front bleeder valves. I pulled the tank earlier to crack the bleeders but I didn't look at the fuel line, when I pulled the tank it felt like it was still connected (the line was just caught on something it seems) so I didn't even think about it.
funny thing is i had done a once over to make sure i eliminated as many potential occurences of "murphy's law" as I could (like removing the fuel filter hanging off the carb inlet, it's going to get moved to under the gas tank later on) and missed something as stupid as the fuel line not getting hooked back up. whatever though, wasn't going to make it far anyways because of the rear brakes being locked up.
[QUOTE=RubberDuckeh;38269160]well, today was.. a total flop
finally re-bled the brakes on Bug #2. Figured I'd go for a quick jaunt, just see how she runs and all.
Pour about 2 gallons of gas into the tank out of a jerry can, start her up (fires right up, idles pretty smooth all considered).
Get to the end of the driveway, realize the rear brakes seem to be seized (or just adjusted too tightly, i adjusted them when the brake line was leaking but they were bled). Whatever, I'm already out of the driveway so I go down to the end of the street to turn around and come back to park..
Get down about halfway to the end of the street, car starts to have even less power (mind you, I was pegging it in first and barely moving - the engine wanted to die the whole time). Realize there's a trail of liquid following me, I go to make a u-turn on the a street that is T'd with mine.. Car dies right in the middle of the street. Fuck. Can't push the car, the brakes are seized as I'd already discovered. Fuck. Realize at this point that it REEKS of gasoline. Fuck. Suddenly there's a lake of gas under the car. Fuck. Pull the hood latch release, the little handle + the attached cable pulls right out in my hand. Fuck. Hood's stuck closed, gas pouring out of the car. Fuck.
Get my pops to come down the street with the work van and a chain, tie her off and drag her back up the street. Manage to pop open the hood (no idea how, seems like it just wasn't latched all the way or something - the hood sits a little jacked up on the passenger side. Pull out the gas tank.. Realize I'm a dumbass. I had put on a fuel line the other day and attached it to the tank + the fuel line going to the engine - but I had pulled it off the other day to pull out the tank to get to the front bleeder valves. I pulled the tank earlier to crack the bleeders but I didn't look at the fuel line, when I pulled the tank it felt like it was still connected (the line was just caught on something it seems) so I didn't even think about it.
funny thing is i had done a once over to make sure i eliminated as many potential occurences of "murphy's law" as I could (like removing the fuel filter hanging off the carb inlet, it's going to get moved to under the gas tank later on) and missed something as stupid as the fuel line not getting hooked back up. whatever though, wasn't going to make it far anyways because of the rear brakes being locked up.[/QUOTE]
Fuck
[QUOTE=RubberDuckeh;38269160]well, today was.. a total flop...
~Ah FUCK story~
[/QUOTE]
Just remember it could have been worse, the Bug could've burned down. My dad's van burned down, it was an electrical issue in the dash or steering column.
At least most of it is a (fairly) easy fix.
Finally getting my car back from the trans shop tomorrow. Wasted two weeks of autocross prep time dealing with their fuckup, now I'll have two nights to install shocks, fix the header leak, and deal with a laundry list of small issues left over from the engine swap. My first drive with the new engine will practically be on the way to the course.
I appreciate them fixing the screwup and all, but the colossal pain in the ass of this whole experience means I'm never taking a car to them again. It should have worked the first fucking time.
changed the oil in my skyactiv 3 4.6 quarts of 0w-20 synthetic ( required, got pennzoil platinum) and taller wix 51356 filter. ready for another 7.5k miles.
GSR swapped CRX now has heat again, thank the fucking lord. Now I don't have to drive around freezing dicks off in this cold.
One of the heater core nipples was fucked up, took forever to straighten it out and then it leaked, eventually had to get a worm clamp after it and overtighten it for it to seal.
so i jacked up the ass end of #2 today.. adjusted the brakes a little, seemed fine.. stepped on the brakes, release them, still fine.. pulled the e-brake, release the e-brake.. seized tighter than a motherfucker. blah.
so now i've got to buy a $20 36mm (impact) socket and hope and pray that i can break the axle nuts loose. i'd love to get a torque-meister (torque multiplier, 36mm for axle nuts + gland nuts on the old VWs - 30ft/lb input = 270ft/lb output) but i'm not about to spend $80 (+probably $30-40 in shipping) and wait until next week, especially if i can break the nuts free without it
and to top it all off, one of the previous owners broke the head off a lug bolt in both rear drums. there's no way in hell i can get those silly things out so i may be looking at another $70/ea (brazillian) or $90/ea (german) for new rear drums + probably $80 just for shipping
fuckin' lug bolts.
I would just order new lug bolts and have a machinist get the bolts out. Thats what we do on our C-130s.
Way cheaper to just get a new drum on a Beetle.
broke the shit out of a 1/2" drive breaker bar..
managed to get the passenger side axle nut off like, no problem. went over, torqued on it just a bit and it popped free - this means it really wasn't torqued right to begin with but that's totally okay cause it came off.
went over to the driver's side.. torqued on it with everything i got, nothing. didn't even budge. grabbed a ~2ft cheater bar, slipped it over the end of the breaker bar, torqued it and it sounded like the nut broke loose so i slipped the cheater bar off, torqued on the breaker bar and damn near punched myself in the head as the breaker bar snapped off at the head.
that damn thing is fucking ON there. looks like i may be ordering a Torque-Meister after all because i don't see how else i can get it off. I'm not about to go buy another breaker bar and then end up breaking that thing, nor am I going to try to use a 1/2" drive ratchet because if I sheared the head of a breaker bar clean off, it's just going to fuck up a ratchet.
Blah, there goes another $100 and I still have to find a way to get the fucking headless lug bolt shanks out of either drum in the rear because i really don't want to spend $200+ on a couple of drums
[QUOTE=RubberDuckeh;38289685]broke the shit out of a 1/2" drive breaker bar..
managed to get the passenger side axle nut off like, no problem. went over, torqued on it just a bit and it popped free - this means it really wasn't torqued right to begin with but that's totally okay cause it came off.
went over to the driver's side.. torqued on it with everything i got, nothing. didn't even budge. grabbed a ~2ft cheater bar, slipped it over the end of the breaker bar, torqued it and it sounded like the nut broke loose so i slipped the cheater bar off, torqued on the breaker bar and damn near punched myself in the head as the breaker bar snapped off at the head.
that damn thing is fucking ON there. looks like i may be ordering a Torque-Meister after all because i don't see how else i can get it off. I'm not about to go buy another breaker bar and then end up breaking that thing, nor am I going to try to use a 1/2" drive ratchet because if I sheared the head of a breaker bar clean off, it's just going to fuck up a ratchet.
Blah, there goes another $100 and I still have to find a way to get the fucking headless lug bolt shanks out of either drum in the rear because i really don't want to spend $200+ on a couple of drums[/QUOTE]
Could you post some pictures of #2?
Rubbah ducckkky there is a gloryus thing called Craftsman tools.
If you brake it thhheey give you a new one / re-maned one.
I have broken afew bits and a ratchet, did not even wink just told me to grab one off the shelf.
Ohh and when using a cheater bar I normally just use a 1.2 inch ratchet with a 6ft long lead pipe for pluming.
Anything can be done sir. Go buy some liquid wrench and a blowtorch.
[img]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/truck.jpg?t=1351896352[/img]
Took off my running boards today, girlfriend can deal with it.
[QUOTE=RubberDuckeh;38289685]broke the shit out of a 1/2" drive breaker bar..
managed to get the passenger side axle nut off like, no problem. went over, torqued on it just a bit and it popped free - this means it really wasn't torqued right to begin with but that's totally okay cause it came off.
went over to the driver's side.. torqued on it with everything i got, nothing. didn't even budge. grabbed a ~2ft cheater bar, slipped it over the end of the breaker bar, torqued it and it sounded like the nut broke loose so i slipped the cheater bar off, torqued on the breaker bar and damn near punched myself in the head as the breaker bar snapped off at the head.
that damn thing is fucking ON there. looks like i may be ordering a Torque-Meister after all because i don't see how else i can get it off. I'm not about to go buy another breaker bar and then end up breaking that thing, nor am I going to try to use a 1/2" drive ratchet because if I sheared the head of a breaker bar clean off, it's just going to fuck up a ratchet.
Blah, there goes another $100 and I still have to find a way to get the fucking headless lug bolt shanks out of either drum in the rear because i really don't want to spend $200+ on a couple of drums[/QUOTE]
Careful brutha, breaker bar can shatter and embed itself in your skin/face.
Aint fun.
The head I bought is already done at the shop.
It looked so handsome clamped on the workbench. All shiny, all of the underside of the head you could see yourself; mirror finish. They even helicoiled all the stripped threads it had.
The only thing that was weird were the lifters. They were welded to become mechanical lifters? What was the old owner thinking
[QUOTE=DPKiller;38291761]Rubbah ducckkky there is a gloryus thing called Craftsman tools.
If you brake it thhheey give you a new one / re-maned one.
I have broken afew bits and a ratchet, did not even wink just told me to grab one off the shelf.
Ohh and when using a cheater bar I normally just use a 1.2 inch ratchet with a 6ft long lead pipe for pluming.
Anything can be done sir. Go buy some liquid wrench and a blowtorch.[/QUOTE]
Yea, i have like 3 1/2" drive craftsman ratchets. totally forgot they do the no charge exchange (i actually bought a busted 1/2" drive craftsman at a yard sale that didn't ratchet for like $5 at a yard sale and got it replaced at Sears).
managed to get both axle nuts off. ended up slipping a piece of like 2" fence post over a ratchet and stepping on it, ovaled the hell out of the fence post but it's real thin gauge so that's no surprise
like i figured, though, the 8" rubber lines on either side are valving. master cylinder is strong enough to push fluid out but the return springs + wheel cylinders aren't strong enough to push the fluid back. i can order them but i'm going to go down to vatozone tomorrow and see if they have something close, it's all pretty standard size stuff so hopefully they stock a variety of rubber brake line like they do the steel lines.
on top of that, i'm gonna get another timing light.. set the points, timing and idle then go for another ride and hopefully make it further than the end of the street.
[editline]3rd November 2012[/editline]
[QUOTE=Jackpody;38290275]Could you post some pictures of #2?[/QUOTE]
i'll see what i can do tomorrow. she's an ugly girl but she was only $300 (well, $450 but came with a brand new Bentley and pedal cluster)
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/KuvXo.png[/IMG]
Alternator off, stupid exhaust studs out. Need to separate manifold from downpipe. Then comes the difficult part of removing fuel injection system/intake manifold.
Dizzy, oil pump, crankshaft pulley later. All this to access front timing cover then timing chain system. Ughhhhhh
Old Jeep Carb dies, put new aftermarket carb in.
Get it to idle and the timing spot on.
Drive around block, perfect.
Try to accelerate hard on the on-ramp, stumbles all over itself.
Fuck.
[IMG]http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99/aqua-lover/2012-09-30_11-50-25_838.jpg[/IMG]
360/A727 is running and driving excellently as of today. Still have a little kickdown linkage trial and error to do, and my speedo gear is stripped from the trans shop not indexing properly.
I have the same intake manifold for sale lol, how's it sound with the headers?
Also, that feel when your vehicle has no more problems, drifted my tuck all around my yard <3
[QUOTE=Valon Kyre;38323222]I have the same intake manifold for sale lol, how's it sound with the headers?
Also, that feel when your vehicle has no more problems, drifted my tuck all around my yard <3[/QUOTE]
Sounds awesome. A little header leak, and you can definitely hear the bigger camshaft. Exhaust sound plus air screaming down the carb at WOT is brilliant.
Got around doing the top swap on my friend's grand prix. `
[IMG]http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/9382/20121106155406431.jpg[/IMG]
Hopefully his last longer than mine did :v:
Um, what is that box attached to those, to what looks like head brackets?
That some "advanced" fuel injection?
I've never seen that before, don't hate.
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