What did you work on today? (DIY pros ITT) - General

Secondary throttle that opens under hard acceleration.

Hellstrike your cobra has been nothing but a problem since you bought it. Well it [i]is[/i] a Ford.

[QUOTE=Deadman123;38353687]Hellstrike your cobra has been nothing but a problem since you bought it. Well it [i]is[/i] a Ford.[/QUOTE] hueahueaheyu found on road DEAD hueaheuayheaue [editline]7th November 2012[/editline] [QUOTE=Scientwist;38352713]Um, what is that box attached to those, to what looks like head brackets? That some "advanced" fuel injection? I've never seen that before, don't hate.[/QUOTE] IMRCs DOHC but under 3250 rpm it runs on 1 intake valve, above 3250 rpm some butterfly valves open and it uses both intake valves. something to do with more velocity with 1 valve increasing torque at low rpms

Anyone ever put the speedometer cable back onto a '89 era Ford? I seriously cannot get mine to snap back on and its driving me insane

[QUOTE=Hell Strike;38354875]hueahueaheyu found on road DEAD hueaheuayheaue [editline]7th November 2012[/editline] IMRCs DOHC but under 3250 rpm it runs on 1 intake valve, above 3250 rpm some butterfly valves open and it uses both intake valves. something to do with more velocity with 1 valve increasing torque at low rpms[/QUOTE] you can see the effect it has on gunking up the most used intake valve

[img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/IMAG0496.jpg[/img] removed rad to clean it. [img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/IMAG0493.jpg[/img] Vicegrips saved the day when removing the last pulley bolt [img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/IMAG0509.jpg[/img] Idler pulley is a fag i guess [img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/IMAG0507.jpg[/img] New waterpump and thermostat gasket installed. and then and then and then I'm like wait why is that connector not connected to the elctric fan......... and then i connected it and suddenly never went above 210. And then i get home and it wont work again.

don't talk agaisnt FAG bearings. they are a awesome compagny... they supply free catalogues whenever you want!!!

[QUOTE=ThermalArc;38356263]you can see the effect it has on gunking up the most used intake valve[/QUOTE] the gunked up one is actually the one thats only open past 3250 rpm. i think the other side is so clean because it's the one that has the injector and the fuel washes shit away

So i was leaving work, and this dick face's horrible truck parking job made it really hard to get out of my spot without hitting him. I won't bore you with the details. Basically, trying not to hit him while backing out caused me to hit someone elses truck, leaving no damage on their shit fortunately. [t]http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/3509/wp001537.jpg[/t] Unfortunately i can't say the same. I got super pissed, then went home and got to work. [t]http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/5628/dsc0752pd.jpg[/t] Good as new! Kinda..

Where do I begin? I got my plate today and installed it as you all know but I got something else too. My friends pulled a drivers seat from a junked 240 that was also tan, which I decided to take apart and restore since it had potential. [img_thumb]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/407743_542848259063186_904160237_n.jpg[/img_thumb] From there I cleaned it and removed the original one for comparison. New on left, old on right. [img_thumb]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/59626_542916109056401_1490585987_n.jpg[/img_thumb] Not only would the bars without foam hurt me, this is why my seat leaned. [img_thumb]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/543034_542916089056403_861516025_n.jpg[/img_thumb] Here are some more photos. Original Seat with bad grid [img_thumb]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/393973_542916065723072_852229003_n.jpg[/img_thumb] Original Seat with bad foam [img_thumb]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/31013_542916022389743_1737704139_n.jpg[/img_thumb] Good seat with good support [img_thumb]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/292735_542916039056408_868334554_n.jpg[/img_thumb] You can clean 25 year old seats that have never been cleaned before But for the love of god dont :v: [img_thumb]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/408153_542915992389746_730720258_n.jpg[/img_thumb] [img_thumb]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/406925_542915985723080_1190221980_n.jpg[/img_thumb] I'll get more pics tomorrow.

Today was fun, got to pull my friends engine and transmission out of his gf's 96 civic. It started as your run-of-the-mill clutch, throw out bearing and pressure plate change, then it slipped fast to "why the fuck is there no fluid in the tranny?" Turns out, shes been driving with no fluid for 3 weeks now. So after inspecting the transmission (took it apart), it seems ok. Aside from the main shaft bearing you see first being wobbly. Nothing i can do, dude don't wanna change it so what ever. Tomorrow it all goes back in and i give that tranny a month. Not how it is now, but you get the idea. [img]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/552182_250995391692581_1445458704_n.jpg[/img] Some night shots of it waiting the new day. [img]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/486181_4445492448949_1646751409_n.jpg[/img] [img]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/530716_4445492248944_2059604656_n.jpg[/img]

[QUOTE=Scientwist;38391237]Today was fun, got to pull my friends engine and transmission out of his gf's 96 civic. It started as your run-of-the-mill clutch, throw out bearing and pressure plate change, then it slipped fast to "why the fuck is there no fluid in the tranny?" Turns out, shes been driving with no fluid for 3 weeks now. So after inspecting the transmission (took it apart), it seems ok. Aside from the main shaft bearing you see first being wobbly. Nothing i can do, dude don't wanna change it so what ever. Tomorrow it all goes back in and i give that tranny a month. Not how it is now, but you get the idea. [/QUOTE] dear lord, why the fuck is there no fluid in the tranny?

Maybe the BF wants the GF dead? :v:

[QUOTE=Ajacks;38293408][img]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/truck.jpg?t=1351896352[/img] Took off my running boards today, girlfriend can deal with it.[/QUOTE] I'm not gonna lie, that was my favorite part about my Tacoma was watching my 5'2" girlfriend try and scramble her ass up into the passengers seat.

[QUOTE=slayer3032;38391680]dear lord, why the fuck is there no fluid in the tranny?[/QUOTE] prob a leak at the pan or something that has gone unnoticed.

130$ worth of sparkplugs going into my corrado [img]http://img547.imageshack.us/img547/2396/imag0097m.jpg[/img] Together with some Prospark ignition wires. It was all worth it..

Heh, costs me 10$ for 6 spark plugs, because best for my application are cheap AL104 :v:

I got a set of 6 NGK Iridiums for about $3 a plug that I bought online. :v: Can't remember what the exact plug was though.

I only gave half of that :) But retail it's like 130$ and that's nuts..

We tightened bolts on the MR2 and took it to a DYNO. [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHvzrz5qWjg[/media] 189 on a Dyno they call the "Heartbreaker", so it's safe to say it's pretty damn accurate.

Never mind the loose center cap on the wheel. Guess I forgot to tighten it up...

[QUOTE=ThermalArc;38393650]prob a leak at the pan or something that has gone unnoticed.[/QUOTE] "Leak at the pan" What pan Go back to your silly toyotas, toyota boy

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/lqSpa.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/tK2rP.jpg[/IMG] Going through the motions. I'm working on removing the intake manifold off this engine. The head is finally loose from the block. The hard part is separating everything that is holding the head back down; like the exhaust manifold, timing cover and the intake manifold. Nissan engineers were nice enough to design this truck engine to be totally easy to disassemble and put together. I'm literally playing Lego blocks for someone who has never worked on an engine in his life

[QUOTE=slayer3032;38391680]dear lord, why the fuck is there no fluid in the tranny?[/QUOTE] Well, after some closer inspection, Carl found a crack in the case at the bottom. You see, he got the car from a police auction and the prior owner had run over a pole, so to fix it today, he JB welded it. Which did the trick, for now. We also found out that the bearing for the main shaft is what was making the noise, not the throw out bearing. It's wobbly as fuck and I told him it's going to fail outright soon but he don't listen till its too late. He says, "IF it fails, I'll just buy a new (used) one for 260 bux." Yeah right. [editline]10th November 2012[/editline] [QUOTE=ThermalArc;38393650]prob a leak at the pan or something that has gone unnoticed.[/QUOTE] It almost was unnoticed. [editline]10th November 2012[/editline] [QUOTE=bradley;38400449]"Leak at the pan" What pan Go back to your silly toyotas, toyota boy[/QUOTE] Heh, that made me chuckle. Some time in the future when carl gets a new car for the clutch dumping GF, he wants to put a crate engine in it, so I may be looking to you for some info on whats best. He's on a tight budget but he'll get what I tell him or he'll do it himself, I don't want to hear him bitch cuz something isn't working right. Hence why Facepunch's Civic guy is who I'll be bugging for info is you.

One seat done, one to go + a new E brake console. Cleaned out the whole carpet in the volvo, which is in better condition than I first thought. These seats are a bitch to take apart and put together, especially for someone who has never done it before. No pics today though, sorry.

[QUOTE=sHiBaN;38402611][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/lqSpa.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/tK2rP.jpg[/IMG] Going through the motions. I'm working on removing the intake manifold off this engine. The head is finally loose from the block. The hard part is separating everything that is holding the head back down; like the exhaust manifold, timing cover and the intake manifold. Nissan engineers were nice enough to design this truck engine to be totally easy to disassemble and put together. I'm literally playing Lego blocks for someone who has never worked on an engine in his life[/QUOTE] Quick question, Im probally being really stupid right now. But, why does the cylinder head(s) have to come off to get the intake of? I know on my mustang, I take the intake tube off, and then 8 bolts on the upper intake and it comes right off. Another 8 bolts on the lower intake and its off too?

[QUOTE=Awt2 x;38403752]Quick question, Im probally being really stupid right now. But, why does the cylinder head(s) have to come off to get the intake of? I know on my mustang, I take the intake tube off, and then 8 bolts on the upper intake and it comes right off. Another 8 bolts on the lower intake and its off too?[/QUOTE] You got it reversed; I need to detach the intake and exhaust manifolds to get the engine head free. I'm trying to change most of the engine gaskets and update the timing chain guides. Also, leaving the intake manifold attached to the head (with my KA24E engine) is easier than individually removing each system when separating it from the block. Also for the fact that there are a lot of snaking hoses that can only be accessed easily with all the stuff off. Not to mention in order to properly remove the manifolds, there are other systems I have to remove to access them. Fuel delivery/injection system, evaporative emissions system as well as the cooling system and throttle/steering assembly. What may seem like a straightforward job becomes complicated if you aren't informed

[QUOTE=Scientwist;38402878]Well, after some closer inspection, Carl found a crack in the case at the bottom. You see, he got the car from a police auction and the prior owner had run over a pole, so to fix it today, he JB welded it. Which did the trick, for now. We also found out that the bearing for the main shaft is what was making the noise, not the throw out bearing. It's wobbly as fuck and I told him it's going to fail outright soon but he don't listen till its too late. He says, "IF it fails, I'll just buy a new (used) one for 260 bux." Yeah right. [editline]10th November 2012[/editline] It almost was unnoticed. [editline]10th November 2012[/editline] Heh, that made me chuckle. Some time in the future when carl gets a new car for the clutch dumping GF, he wants to put a crate engine in it, so I may be looking to you for some info on whats best. He's on a tight budget but he'll get what I tell him or he'll do it himself, I don't want to hear him bitch cuz something isn't working right. Hence why Facepunch's Civic guy is who I'll be bugging for info is you.[/QUOTE] I am actually really enjoying this B17A1 in the CRX. If the tranny didn't have a bad synchro in 4th gear and the half shaft bearing wasn't bad, I'd be loving it a lot more. I'm eventually probably going LS swap and selling the B17 though, as it's worth more in complete, stock condition than apart or modded. It's a very hard to find engine. As far as bolt-ins go for Civic engine swaps, I'm assuming you've got the 99% margin of them -- D-series based -- in which I'd say go with a D16A6, D16Z6, or D16Y8. JDM ZC engines (which come in all three of those configurations as well as a DOHC variant) are a good swap too. I wouldn't do a D15B, as they are essentially USDM D15s but some had VTEC heads and whatnot. Pencil rods, avoid if able. Aside from that, the sky's the limit if you can afford mounts + clutch conversion kit. You could put anything from an F22A/F22B Accord/Prelude engine to a K20/K24.

[QUOTE=bradley;38405806]I am actually really enjoying this B17A1 in the CRX. If the tranny didn't have a bad synchro in 4th gear and the half shaft bearing wasn't bad, I'd be loving it a lot more. I'm eventually probably going LS swap and selling the B17 though, as it's worth more in complete, stock condition than apart or modded. It's a very hard to find engine. As far as bolt-ins go for Civic engine swaps, I'm assuming you've got the 99% margin of them -- D-series based -- in which I'd say go with a D16A6, D16Z6, or D16Y8. JDM ZC engines (which come in all three of those configurations as well as a DOHC variant) are a good swap too. I wouldn't do a D15B, as they are essentially USDM D15s but some had VTEC heads and whatnot. Pencil rods, avoid if able. Aside from that, the sky's the limit if you can afford mounts + clutch conversion kit. You could put anything from an [b]F22A/F22B Accord/Prelude engine to a K20/K24.[/b][/QUOTE] Yup, D series. It's a D16Y5 (6?), he's looking to tarbo it in the future so I told him we'd prolly go JDM for quality and power. Another friend of mine recommended JDM as well because of the power they can put out. Humor me about the engines in the bold area above please, I'm unfamiliar with those.

JDM and USDM make no difference, the reason JDM engines are more powerful is the camshaft/ecu combo. USDM engines are just as great. My B17A1 puts out more power than the first gen SIR B16A, and as much (but more torque) as the EM1 Civic Si B16A2. Which, by the way, is the best B-series block you can get ahold of. It's got near-as-makes-no-difference perfect 1.75:1 rod/stroke ratio, and oil squirters for each cylinder. With a good set of rods and pistons, the bottom end can hold up to a lot of applications. Anyways, D16Y5? Is it an HX? Save that motor, worth a bit of dosh to those looking for mileage builds. The block is good for any build as it shares normal D16 specs, with a set of Z6 or Y8 rods/pistons and a Z6/Y8 head it's literally the same motor. If it was me and I could find a good deal on a D16Y7 or D16Y8, I'd drop it in there. Y8 intake manifold, Y8 or Z6 head if it's a D16Y7, OBD2->OBD1, P28. That'd be pretty much it. You won't get much more out of a D-series without boost. And if you're going to boost, you're going to be building a motor. [editline]11th November 2012[/editline] F22A holds the world record for fastest N/A FWD if I remember right, built by Bisimoto and put in a Honda Insight, runs 9.6~ or better in the quarter mile. The Accord motors are hefty but torquey, and with an H-series head, just as good as some of the best B-series swaps. A lot of guys run H2B (F2B) swaps because the sheer amount of power the H series can put out N/A. K series is what's hot now. Guys who swap and have money swap K series. They share architecture with the Honda S2000 F20C/F22C but aren't identical. They do make a lot of power but the money you dish out swapping a K series could be better spent on an H series, or an insanely fast B series. [editline]11th November 2012[/editline] Oh right here's the records Bisimoto has with their F22A1: [quote]-World's first sanctioned 150MPH FWD naturally aspirated pass -Worlds fastest unibody FWD -Worlds fastest naturally aspirated Honda -Worlds fastest naturally aspirated SOHC -World's first Non-Vtec naturally aspirated SOHC -World's first Non-Vtec naturally aspirated FWD in 11's,10's, and 9's in the 1/4 mile[/quote] Yeah, he doesn't have VTEC. Because he [i]only makes power[/i]. As I always say, I don't like VTEC because it's purely an economical feature.