[QUOTE=bradley;38412850]JDM and USDM make no difference, the reason JDM engines are more powerful is the camshaft/ecu combo. USDM engines are just as great. My B17A1 puts out more power than the first gen SIR B16A, and as much (but more torque) as the EM1 Civic Si B16A2. Which, by the way, is the best B-series block you can get ahold of. It's got near-as-makes-no-difference perfect 1.75:1 rod/stroke ratio, and oil squirters for each cylinder. With a good set of rods and pistons, the bottom end can hold up to a lot of applications.
Anyways, D16Y5? Is it an HX? Save that motor, worth a bit of dosh to those looking for mileage builds. The block is good for any build as it shares normal D16 specs, with a set of Z6 or Y8 rods/pistons and a Z6/Y8 head it's literally the same motor.
If it was me and I could find a good deal on a D16Y7 or D16Y8, I'd drop it in there. Y8 intake manifold, Y8 or Z6 head if it's a D16Y7, OBD2->OBD1, P28. That'd be pretty much it. You won't get much more out of a D-series without boost. And if you're going to boost, you're going to be building a motor.
[editline]11th November 2012[/editline]
F22A holds the world record for fastest N/A FWD if I remember right, built by Bisimoto and put in a Honda Insight, runs 9.6~ or better in the quarter mile. The Accord motors are hefty but torquey, and with an H-series head, just as good as some of the best B-series swaps. A lot of guys run H2B (F2B) swaps because the sheer amount of power the H series can put out N/A.
K series is what's hot now. Guys who swap and have money swap K series. They share architecture with the Honda S2000 F20C/F22C but aren't identical. They do make a lot of power but the money you dish out swapping a K series could be better spent on an H series, or an insanely fast B series.
[editline]11th November 2012[/editline]
Oh right here's the records Bisimoto has with their F22A1:
Yeah, he doesn't have VTEC. Because he [i]only makes power[/i]. As I always say, I don't like VTEC because it's purely an economical feature.[/QUOTE]
i thought v-tec was low end with decent power for economy, and high end was pure performance
VTEC is an economy feature. Without it, the Civic Si (and other vehicles with VTEC) would either have the performance of the non-VTEC models with their lesser camshaft lobes, or less fuel economy than they already have with the performance lobes that VTEC allows them to use (but only on the top end with VTEC).
I just don't see the point in blending economy and power at the cost of a narrow powerband at the top end of a torque-less engine. It's blasphemous.
I especially don't like VTEC with single cam D16s -- It's only on one set of lobes anyways, since there's no room for it on both, so it really defeats the purpose. Plus, non-VTEC heads can be made to flow just as well or better, are less prone to cracking, and have more room for a larger camshaft grind to make even more power.
The benefits of VTEC are just completely negligible in both performance and economy aspects. Pick one or the other, don't settle for a lukewarm mash of the two.
VTEC yo.
Seats are back in + a new E brake console, though I have a test to study for so no pics tonight.
The difference now is no comparison, I sit up higher, the seat is more firm and it feels very comfortable compared to your back sitting on a broken seat bolster.
Derubstriped and Debadged my Vauxhall Corsa (opel for EU and America) and just installed my 12" JBL sub.
Car started pissing coolant out of mystery location. Time to rip it apart, I have a feeleing I know where its coming from...
[img]http://imageshack.us/a/img607/8076/carrt.jpg[/img]
Ugh that stupid rice tube and filter look disgusting. I'm sorry AA please don't crucify me, I realize shitty ebay intakes are wrong and I'm going to fix it. That shit is outta there pronto, stock box going back in when I'm done with this leak.
Fuck you thermostat housing. Fuck you and your leaky bent up seal too.
[img]http://imageshack.us/a/img59/4540/tstathousingr.jpg[/img]
Crack pipe is going to have to wait for tomorrow. T-stat housing basically exploded when I popped it off and as usual completely missed the container on the floor.
There's really no difference between a $115 AEM 2 foot pipe with a bend in it and a $15 ebay 2 foot pipe with a slightly less nice bend in it.
Just don't use the cheap cone filter which you got with it which doubles as a slowly leaking drinking cup.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/jEfDO.png[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/OpaqS.png[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/JlZQx.png[/IMG]
Head gasket is totally dead. Multiple location failures and leaks. Blown passage seals as well as being completely obstructed and blocked. One passageway had a string of RTV gasket from the water pump too. Just goes to show the headgasket sealer in a bottle completely wrecks the engine
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;38432298]-pics-
Head gasket is totally dead. Multiple location failures and leaks. Blown passage seals as well as being completely obstructed and blocked. One passageway had a string of RTV gasket from the water pump too. Just goes to show the headgasket sealer in a bottle completely wrecks the engine[/QUOTE]
So what happened, I remember you being screwed over by a shop ages ago and having it fixed or something by someone else again.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;38432351]So what happened, I remember you being screwed over by a shop ages ago and having it fixed or something by someone else again.[/QUOTE]
First day I got this 240SX it had an overheating and oil leak problem. Sent it straight to the shop right away. Oil leak was minor valve cover gasket fix. The overheating problem was the one that took a long time to diagnose.
It took a lot of back and forth between the shop/mechanic/me to try and work something out. Mechanic ended up draining all the coolant one day and forgot to refill with me taking it home. Made the problem worse/could have resulted in more problems.
Tired of their BS I got a job to pay for the repairs and do them myself. What I've found is that the head gasket is totally dead. Bought $$$$ of parts for this car and now attempting to fix all of it.
Should be done before holidays :)
Cylinder #1 is where you were burning coolant, should be pretty obvious.
Good job so far.
[editline]13th November 2012[/editline]
4 looks pretty bad too... Not as bad though.
eh... maybe i'm being retarded, but clean piston usually means it's dead there doesn't it?
they all look pretty clean to me...
[QUOTE=Psygo;38433270]eh... maybe i'm being retarded, but clean piston usually means it's dead there doesn't it?
they all look pretty clean to me...[/QUOTE]
No, it means the fuel and air mixture is just right and it burns clean
well what the shit.
I've been told the past year by my teachers, who are all certified mechanics, that the clean ones are usually the dead ones...
[QUOTE=Psygo;38434023]well what the shit.
I've been told the past year by my teachers, who are all certified mechanics, that the clean ones are usually the dead ones...[/QUOTE]
Well yes, they still have some burn marks as you can see from his pic but if they're sparkling clean it means nothing happens in that cylinder
A non-firing cylinder will be dead clean, yes. Generally you see that with bent valves or a bad ignition component causing the cylinder to not combust.
If you're burning oil or coolant, the cylinder will be discolored and have residue, as you can see from the picture, #1 and #4 were both burning something that wasn't gasoline. #1 being the worst.
#1 is the one furthest from the flywheel?
I don't remember this stuff anymore..
maybe i should go work on my car so i don't forget this stuff.
Ok, here are some final pics. They were in low light so I may get better ones soon.
No more bad lean.
Old
[img_thumb]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/12882_533776889970323_1838684588_n.jpg[/img_thumb]
New
[img_thumb]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/552442_544573912223954_713843221_n.jpg[/img_thumb]
Super clean
[img_thumb]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/73894_544573835557295_933350169_n.jpg[/img_thumb]
Old E Brake Console
[img_thumb]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/182494_201645759850106_598016_n.jpg[/img_thumb]
New E Brake Console
[img_thumb]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/73866_544573868890625_1554143584_n.jpg[/img_thumb]
Interior
[img_thumb]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/319063_544573715557307_434837256_n.jpg[/img_thumb]
Broken seat welds
[img_thumb]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/579230_544573755557303_1712864902_n.jpg[/img_thumb]
[img_thumb]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/553974_544573792223966_1660749913_n.jpg[/img_thumb]
Have to remember/figure out how to open my tranny fill hole and then figure out a way to get the fluid into it if it needs any.
[QUOTE=Concur;38437940]Have to remember/figure out how to open my tranny fill hole and then figure out a way to get the fluid into it if it needs any.[/QUOTE]
Have you tried simply asking your tranny
need 5/16th drive ratchet.
fuck you puegeot, I'll borrow one from my buds dad and do it tomorrow.
[QUOTE=bradley;38434343]A non-firing cylinder will be dead clean, yes. Generally you see that with bent valves or a bad ignition component causing the cylinder to not combust.
If you're burning oil or coolant, the cylinder will be discolored and have residue, as you can see from the picture, #1 and #4 were both burning something that wasn't gasoline. #1 being the worst.[/QUOTE]
BHG usually mean you are going to steam clean the piston/cylinder.
you can look for picture of bhg'd 7mgte and you'll see how wacko it is
Doing a random Drunken-Google-fu search, I came across [url=http://www.supras.org.nz/techinfo/bhg.htm]this[/url], It might be useful.
So I have a worn engine:
[video=youtube;DKxtCIb0mVg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKxtCIb0mVg[/video]
Damn. It's time to save for a KA24DE swap soon.
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;38443917]BHG usually mean you are going to steam clean the piston/cylinder.
you can look for picture of bhg'd 7mgte and you'll see how wacko it is[/QUOTE]
I've seen plenty of BHG in my day, I'm a Honda guy. That's what happens to D15s that silly boy racers thrash on all the time. A cylinder burning antifreeze and coolant will leave resiude. Only straight water will steam the cylinder, even then it generally just does that because it fouls the plug -- which is as I said before, clean cylinder due to dead ignition component.
[editline]14th November 2012[/editline]
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;38445653]So I have a worn engine:
[video=youtube;DKxtCIb0mVg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKxtCIb0mVg[/video]
Damn. It's time to save for a KA24DE swap soon.
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$[/QUOTE]
Still looks like a good .5mm or more of play, which is about what I'd call the service limit. Again, you really shouldn't worry about it too much as it doesn't mean your engine will explode or anything, it's just to the point where I would rebuild it.
My engine has piston slap and still runs fine. Then again it is rather common on B230 Blocks.
Yeah. He is freaking out and thinking he needs a new motor soon. That should last him a while just fine.
if it aint broke dont fix it
Wear limit according to Nissan is 0.2mm
Tells me to bore and get new pistons if necessary. Also says to fuck off and get a new block+pistons. 240's being close to 23 years old this is hard
Funny how I just watched a you tube vid of a documentary on how F1 cars have to be warmed up externally just so they don't wear... Amazing.
Because Racecar.
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