Been looking into weird engine swaps for the goat.
1998 3.0L 2JZGTE - $2995
2003 4.3L 3UZFE - $3995
2009 5.0L 2UR-GSE - $6995
2009 3.7L VQ37VHR - $3995
Could use some input from resident experts - looking at you at you brad, aetna, and thermal.
[QUOTE=teslacoil;38708611]Been looking into weird engine swaps for the goat.
1998 3.0L 2JZGTE - $2995
2003 4.3L 3UZFE - $3995
2009 5.0L 2UR-GSE - $6995
2009 3.7L VQ37VHR - $3995
Could use some input from resident experts - looking at you at you brad, aetna, and thermal.[/QUOTE]
[video=youtube;xKXZT70gwNg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xKXZT70gwNg[/video]
Not even looking for a dyno queen, I just love the sound of dat straight six. Would look into RB26's if I could find a non-Nür longblock that was less than $8,000.
Please dont put a straight six in the goat, if it was not a Ram Air IV I wouldnt care, but cmon, have to go 455 :v:
[QUOTE=Deadman123;38708796]Please dont put a straight six in the goat, if it was not a Ram Air IV I wouldnt care, but cmon, have to go 455 :v:[/QUOTE]
It hasn't been a RAIV for years. it was torn apart and sold for parts before it got to me. I have a Lemans hood, a Judge trunk with no spoiler, 1974 350 block. Nothing about this car is RA anymore, other than the carb and intake manifold that came with it.
[QUOTE=teslacoil;38708821]It hasn't been a RAIV for years. it was torn apart and sold for parts before it got to me. I have a Lemans hood, a Judge trunk with no spoiler, 1974 350 block. Nothing about this car is RA anymore, other than the carb and intake manifold that came with it.[/QUOTE]
What car is this again?
[QUOTE=Koenigsegg;38708830]What car is this again?[/QUOTE]
1970 Pontiac GTO.
[QUOTE=teslacoil;38708835]1970 Pontiac GTO.[/QUOTE]
Then yeah, get the 455 in there!
[QUOTE=Koenigsegg;38708847]Then yeah, get the 455 back in there![/QUOTE]
If we're going GM V8, we're going LS3, LS454, or 502HO.
[QUOTE=teslacoil;38708611]Been looking into weird engine swaps for the goat.
1998 3.0L 2JZGTE - $2995
2003 4.3L 3UZFE - $3995
2009 5.0L 2UR-GSE - $6995
2009 3.7L VQ37VHR - $3995
Could use some input from resident experts - looking at you at you brad, aetna, and thermal.[/QUOTE]
2jz obd1 would be best
2jz obd2 can do
2jz vvti good luck going single
3uz dont bother
2ur don't bother
vq LOL
so yeah, 2jz for maximum power and reliability, however, it is kind of expensive for a engine clip without trans, does it come with ecu, harness, two WORKING turbos, all accs/pump, IGNITER(200$) AND MAP SENSOR (251$)
[QUOTE=teslacoil;38708854]If we're going GM V8, we're going LS3, LS454, or 502HO.[/QUOTE]
I can dig that, but you should go GM.
F20C, go go go
[img]http://jdm-ottawa.com/product_images/g/700/f20c_clean__27181__15456_zoom.jpg[/img]
Plenty of space left for huge turbos :v:
And tons of room for all of that no power you'll be making.
[editline]5th December 2012[/editline]
If you're going to go 4 pot, go with a real 4 pot, like an SR20DET or 4G63T.
Pontiac GTO and your not putting a big amerika v8 in it, what?
rotary
[QUOTE=Concur;38710152]rotary[/QUOTE]
bridge-ported 20b or bust.
[QUOTE=teslacoil;38708835]1970 Pontiac GTO.[/QUOTE]
The jelocy eats at my soul. thats one of my dream cars, you better take care of it.
seems i cant spell jelocy, help?
If he puts something other than american muscle in a GTO he ruins the car.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/WnvMI.png[/IMG]
"You're building an SOHC? You're stupid!"
[QUOTE=bradley;38702892]A tubular steel header is a cheap, lightweight replacement for a cast iron manifold. The only way it would be rice is if someone claimed their eBay header added 15hp or something, because it won't. That's generally not the point though. 90% of Honda guys I know (respectable honda guys I know) run a cheap header because it's better than the stock manifold, cheaper to replace, and easier to dismantle if they need to get it off again. My old DC Sport 4-2-1 header came apart like hot butter when I tried unbolting it, the stock 4-1 cast iron manifold broke one stud and stripped another out (I managed to get one nut off without damage!), ruining one of the stud holes permenantly and leaving a broken stud in another.
Buying a tubular header isn't rice. Making ridiculous claims on a cheap tubular header is. There are race-spec headers that have proven gains (See: Bisimoto D16, Schoenfeld Headers for the Ford Pinto engine, etc.) but are costly and by the time you invest in the header, supporting mods, and tune, you could be pushing a little bit of boost and making a lot more power.[/QUOTE]
Lately I've been thinking about selling my midpipe and buying a header for my car. Dyno runs have proven I can make nearly 13hp at the wheels with just a header alone. It's a shame I can't run the midpipe and header at the same time without blowing my ears out.
curse you and your access to a dyno
[QUOTE=Aetna;38713308]Lately I've been thinking about selling my midpipe and buying a header for my car. Dyno runs have proven I can make nearly 13hp at the wheels with just a header alone. It's a shame I can't run the midpipe and header at the same time without blowing my ears out.[/QUOTE]
pshh, it's a 4 banger, how bad can it be?
[QUOTE=Aetna;38713308]Lately I've been thinking about selling my midpipe and buying a header for my car. Dyno runs have proven I can make nearly 13hp at the wheels with just a header alone. It's a shame I can't run the midpipe and header at the same time without blowing my ears out.[/QUOTE]
holy crap youd be getting lyke 14hp!!! worth blowing ur earts out
[QUOTE=opaali;38721412]holy crap youd be getting lyke 14hp!!! worth blowing ur earts out[/QUOTE]
Obviously it isn't or I would have done it already. What's got your manpanties in a tangle?
people being mad all over again
I try not to make snarky comments, but when someone is deliberately negative towards a valid interest I'm going to question why.
Is the midpipe on your 4 banger the same deal as what we call the downpipe on my big vee sex?
Doesn't Headers usually come with downpipe/midpipe section anyways? So why do you care if you have to sell your midpipe.
(Never owned a 4 banger so not used to what they usually are of.)
Kinda the same deal as getting a 3" downpipe and keeping the oem cast iron manifold, which laters leads to selling the downpipe and getting headers.
(Downpipes are about 200$, headers are about 350 with a catalytic.)
[QUOTE=WolvesSoulZ;38728275]Is the midpipe on your 4 banger the same deal as what we call the downpipe on my big vee sex?
Doesn't Headers usually come with downpipe/midpipe section anyways? So why do you care if you have to sell your midpipe.
(Never owned a 4 banger so not used to what they usually are of.)
Kinda the same deal as getting a 3" downpipe and keeping the oem cast iron manifold, which laters leads to selling the downpipe and getting headers.
(Downpipes are about 200$, headers are about 350 with a catalytic.)[/QUOTE]
The "midpipe" on my car is the connecting pipe that runs directly from the exhaust manifold to the muffler. It's a 1-piece pipe that contains a resonator and the secondary catalytic converter. "Mid"pipe as in it's the middle section of a 3-piece exhaust system. Here's a crude representation:
[img]http://filesmelt.com/dl/Capture615.JPG[/img]
I understand your confusion completely though, my buddy has 5 sections to his BRZ exhaust, he has a manifold, downpipe, midpipe, connecting pipe, and then the muffler, all of which are bolt-on and can be replaced. He deleted his muffler and secondary cat, so now he only has a resonator and the primary catalytic converter. Essentially, we've ended up with the same exhaust system on two different cars; mine with a 2.0l straight 4 and his with a 2.0l flat 4. It's cool to compare the two sound-wise.
