Today I removed 2 bolts from the bed of the ford, this took me 3 hours.
2 of my lightbulbs died within 30 seconds of me putting them in my clamp light, resulting in the bulbs being thrown agains the wall and exploding while I yelled "Fuck"
[QUOTE=Aetna;38729546]Brapbrap
[url]http://videobam.com/AjuOb[/url][/QUOTE]
Sick, cunt.
Stripped the rust from my headers today and repainted. They are going back onto the bike sunday.
[QUOTE=Concur;38729631]Today I removed 2 bolts from the bed of the ford, this took me 3 hours.
2 of my lightbulbs died within 30 seconds of me putting them in my clamp light, resulting in the bulbs being thrown agains the wall and exploding while I yelled "Fuck"
Sick, cunt.[/QUOTE]
Use the twisty halogen bulbs, I went through a 6 pack of incandescents when I first got my drop light and since then I have only broke 1 bulb in a year or two because about 6 months ago i wanted to test how much abuse the halogen could take..
Got my stubborn GF to buy a timing chain kit for her engine. She keeps losing her paychecks and never buys anything for the repairs of her car.
Attempting oil pan removal right now
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;38733004]She keeps losing her paychecksw[/QUOTE]
I dont even...
If you find them, can you give them to me?
Made $40 replacing a starter on a 1999 Jeep, and making another $40 Saturday replacing the power-steering pump and cleaning the engine bay.
[QUOTE=Aetna;38729221]The "midpipe" on my car is the connecting pipe that runs directly from the exhaust manifold to the muffler. It's a 1-piece pipe that contains a resonator and the secondary catalytic converter. "Mid"pipe as in it's the middle section of a 3-piece exhaust system. Here's a crude representation:
[img]http://filesmelt.com/dl/Capture615.JPG[/img]
I understand your confusion completely though, my buddy has 5 sections to his BRZ exhaust, he has a manifold, downpipe, midpipe, connecting pipe, and then the muffler, all of which are bolt-on and can be replaced. He deleted his muffler and secondary cat, so now he only has a resonator and the primary catalytic converter. Essentially, we've ended up with the same exhaust system on two different cars; mine with a 2.0l straight 4 and his with a 2.0l flat 4. It's cool to compare the two sound-wise.[/QUOTE]
1 cat is too many...
[QUOTE=Awt2 x;38733730]Made $40 replacing a starter on a 1999 Jeep, and making another $40 Saturday replacing the power-steering pump and cleaning the engine bay.[/QUOTE]
Now go do a starter on a Chrysler pacifica, I dare you.
Just changing the oil filter on my moms Concorde requires you to break your fore arm so you can bend it to reach the filter.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/kSi0a.png[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/TlHoQ.png[/IMG]
Chocolate milkshake in my oil pan woot! Also some nice gold nuggets; plastic timing chain guide pieces in the sump and strainer as well as gasket material. YUM
My bhg curse hit you D:
Changed a thermostat on a saturn Vue. x_x
The rubber seal seems to have exploded, but at least it was painless except for my fingers.
[IMG]http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99/aqua-lover/2012-12-06_20-48-13_946.jpg[/IMG]
Finished my gauge project today. Not really all that hard, I took out the existing cluster behind the bezel and had plenty of clearance. I'm not a big fan of running a vacuum line through the firewall to the intake manifold, though.
Hood pins tomorrow.
[QUOTE=Concur;38734030]Now go do a starter on a Chrysler pacifica, I dare you.[/QUOTE]
Nononono, my Cobra must have been the biggest PITA i've ever done. There are three bolts, and the top bolt is covered by the exhaust manifolds, and you have to have like 3 wobble extensions and a swivel head to get to it. Took me and my dad about 2 hours to get that third bolt out.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/xqpyM.png[/IMG]
Front crankshaft main oil seal; multiple breaks and tears. Lots of leaks!
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/EMfo8.png[/IMG]
Nissan's terrible chain guide and tensioner design. Why is it made of plastic? Thankfully have updated version ready for install. Multiple front cover leaks. Old seals and old gaskets
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/Pu1pH.png[/IMG]
Crank and girdle looks ok. Need to disassemble and measure to find accurate readings. No scratches or broken pieces found so far
99% of factory chain tensioners are plastic. That's the difference between paying hundreds or thousands of dollars more per car on the consumer's end.
They last just fine too. You just have to, y'know, replace them when you are told.
-snep-
My garage door decided to break, at 5 FUCKING 30 IN THE MORNING
I hate coming home beat ass tired having to fight to park my car.
I've just added a 36 kg stone slab in my trunk to improve weight balance and ensure my chances of survival this winter. That counts as DIY right? :v:
[QUOTE=Awt2 x;38735190]Nononono, my Cobra must have been the biggest PITA i've ever done. There are three bolts, and the top bolt is covered by the exhaust manifolds, and you have to have like 3 wobble extensions and a swivel head to get to it. Took me and my dad about 2 hours to get that third bolt out.[/QUOTE]
I KNOW YOUR PAIN! I did it when i swapped the trans right after I got the cobra. I left the top bolt out i dont even care
MR2 blew the oil seals on the turbo :(. Anyone have a decent CT26 or CT20b laying around they want to get rid of?
I have a ct-26 I want to get rid of.
[IMG]http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99/aqua-lover/2012-12-08_12-07-42_102.jpg[/IMG]
Got my hood pins in today. It's not just for the look, I needed them because the hood is slightly bent and the front corners protrude above the fenders and wobble when driving. The pins hold them flush with the fenders and against the bump stops.
What are they for though, I mean is it usually just pins and no latch or anything?
Bein srs.
[QUOTE=Concur;38763009]What are they for though, I mean is it usually just pins and no latch or anything?
Bein srs.[/QUOTe]
For older cars like that, normaly you'd remove the latches and just leave the pop-spring. But that kinda depends on the set up, like for holding down unruly hood corners.
Why didn't you just bend the hood to its right shape?
[QUOTE=Ldesu;38763111]Why didn't you just bend the hood to its right shape?[/QUOTE]
Because I'm generally not a body guy, the bend is pretty subtle and hard fix without making it worse, and I've always liked the look anyway. The corners really only stuck up by about 3/8"-1/2", and just adjusting the latch down wasn't enough to get them in line.
I always kind of thought it would be a cool thing to do, and now I have. Plus, it means my latch won't fail and cause my hood to go flying up.
Bending things into shape really isn't hard to do but then again I [I]am[/I] a body guy.
Oh jesus the gaybow ratings made me realize how awful this sounds...
Replaced my purge control solenoid and a few vacuum lines.
Slowly getting things going better.
Now to fix a pesky exhaust leak and a small coolant leak.
Ordered my oil, considering no where carries it anymore. Rotella t5 10w30. Amazing stuff. I tried 3-4 different oils before this and with all them, I burned a quart every 350 miles. Now It's more like a quart every 450-500 miles.
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