Fuckin' dead car battery this morning. Tried to bumpstart in reverse (I was facing uphill) but that bitch just said no.
Decided to check out the brake pads on my bike, they've worn down all the way to the metal.
Goddamn I should have done this when I first got it.
Might be getting a 95 Honda Accord with the 24V V6, any thoughts?
Get a manual, or just enjoy a pretty reliable, if somewhat boring, car.
Boring? Why for would it be boring?
[QUOTE=Scientwist;38782667]Might be getting a 95 Honda Accord with the 24V V6, any thoughts?[/QUOTE]
I have a 95 coupe, but it has a f22b out of a Prelude SI in it and a really twitchy automatic transmission that likes to jerk into gears. They're fun little grocery getters. They sure do not sport car seats very well - do not recommend for that.
[QUOTE=Serj22;38785478]I have a 95 coupe, but it has a f22b out of a Prelude SI in it and a really twitchy automatic transmission that likes to jerk into gears. They're fun little grocery getters. They sure do not sport car seats very well - do not recommend for that.[/QUOTE]
Do you know of any "quirks" that it might have? Aside from bad seats. I'm fairly closely considering it, cuz if it came down to it I could just flip it for a better price then what I'm gonna pay for it.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;38786953]Do you know of any "quirks" that it might have? Aside from bad seats. I'm fairly closely considering it, cuz if it came down to it I could just flip it for a better price then what I'm gonna pay for it.[/QUOTE]
I have the leather seats, and they are torn to shit. Not going to lie. So I would definitly go for fabric if you had the option between. But also the leather is near 20 years old, and mine was kept immaculate. The motor only has about 45k on it as it is a swap, but the original motor is just fine as well. I had a 1992 accord that lasted for a few years and was at 285,000 miles when I sold it for $400 and it was covered in oil, and the strut tower broke off... that's how good a car they are.
Also as far as the automatic in my car goes - it may be the new motor combo on the stock ECU or something (I didn't do the swap) that makes the gears shift really hard. Not that big a deal. But other than that, I've known tons of people with them and they never had issues. As long as you're not paying over $4k you're getting a decent deal.
Going to attempt half-ass KA24E repair on my GF's 240SX
Reasoning being try to see the condition of the engine without pulling it out the bay. New waterpump, thermostat, hoses. Re-using the good radiator from my 240, giving it tune up. See what we can do. Thing's leaking already so cheapie Quaker State and STP filter will do.
New valve cover gasket even though the bolt threads on the head are gone. New exhaust manifold studs because the ones on there are dead too. Might also change the transmission fluid if GF's feeling spendy
[QUOTE=Serj22;38797569]I have the leather seats, and they are torn to shit. Not going to lie. So I would definitly go for fabric if you had the option between. But also the leather is near 20 years old, and mine was kept immaculate. The motor only has about 45k on it as it is a swap, but the original motor is just fine as well. I had a 1992 accord that lasted for a few years and was at 285,000 miles when I sold it for $400 and it was covered in oil, and the strut tower broke off... that's how good a car they are.
Also as far as the automatic in my car goes - it may be the new motor combo on the stock ECU or something (I didn't do the swap) that makes the gears shift really hard. Not that big a deal. But other than that, I've known tons of people with them and they never had issues. As long as you're not paying over $4k you're getting a decent deal.[/QUOTE]
Good to know, it has fabric seats so I seem to be ok there. The miles arn't to bad and I'd only pay 500 because friend of mine.
christmas has come early this year
[img]http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/1252/imag0112m.jpg[/img]
Optima Red top Gel battery and a Gas Soldering Iron.
Holy fucking hell, blower motor & resitor removal is a real PITA at -12C, you have to like, lay on your back, feet up the roof, head down the floor mat, to unbolt everything.
At least, heated up the fan, plugged it straight on battery, works, so ruled that out. Ordered a resistor at my local auto part to test, if it works, 102$, if it doesn't, I'll be able to get a refund.
Hopefully it's the resistor, otherwise, I'm burned out.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;36968625]Take those fucking orange thingy's off. I hate those damn things. Your not playing with 120 volts here.
Use something abit better like this.
[t]http://media.wholesale-electrical-electronics.com/product/imgage/Electrical&Electronics/2010101004/23db8bc981c9b5478345a662ff8a008f.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
Listen to this man. NEVER use wire nuts in a car application. Wire nuts are designed for solid core wire. They actually thread into the solid core. Wires in cars are multi-stranded so the nuts won't thread into them and the vibrations are likely to make them fall off.
I wouldn't use a butt connector either. I'd suggest something like this: [url]http://www.jandawholesale.com/images/NEW/2218crimps.jpg[/url]
Or you could always go the solder + heat shrink route :D
Fuck it, electrical tape is good enough.
(I soldered them too...)
Just got back from working on my friend Andrew's 350hp D16 EK. Got everything hooked up aside from tapping the oil pan (We got the wrong fitting) and bolting the turbo on.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/2sYwh.png[/IMG]
so my GF's 240sx was a beach cruiser in its old life
front main crank seal leaking?
Best way I found to go threw that grease / dirt / OMG GET IT OFF is get some boiling water and dawn soap. Use all of it like you give 0 fuks and put that shit in a pressure washer.
Or you can use lots of cans of degreaser. Your pick.
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;38811012]front main crank seal leaking?[/QUOTE]
valve cover leak all throughout due to overtorqued cover bolts, causing stripped threads. imagine chocolate waterfall. sprinkle some dirt on that mix
Dude that's personal stuff.. chocolate waterfall? no one needs to hear/imagine that.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;38811115]Best way I found to go threw that grease / dirt / OMG GET IT OFF is get some boiling water and dawn soap. Use all of it like you give 0 fuks and put that shit in a pressure washer.
Or you can use lots of cans of degreaser. Your pick.[/QUOTE]
I just degrease and then high pressure clean while the car is running.
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;38811012]front main crank seal leaking?[/QUOTE]
Dude, it's a 240SX. What [i]doesn't[/i] leak on it?
[QUOTE=bradley;38814626]Dude, it's [B]the previous owner[/B]'s brain. What [I]doesn't[/I] leak from it?[/QUOTE]
Gonna do the tune up today. Got new distributor parts as well as all the necessary plumbing. Lets see what an oil change and tune up will do to this car
GF not psyched I spent $200+ of her money on parts yesterday; she'd never fix this car otherwise
[editline]Edit[/editline]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/glUpR.png[/IMG]
JDM tyte water pump oem Japan. Beck Arnley dizzy rotor. BWD cap. Gold plated goodness. Still need to change basic sensors: oil pressure, coolant temp, and ECU coolant temp
Did half ass oil change and a bit more scrubbing. Got grease all over driveway now gg.
Fuck the driveway
Cat litter can fix that right nicely.
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;38817029]Gonna do the tune up today. Got new distributor parts as well as all the necessary plumbing. Lets see what an oil change and tune up will do to this car
GF not psyched I spent $200+ of her money on parts yesterday; she'd never fix this car otherwise
[editline]Edit[/editline]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/glUpR.png[/IMG]
JDM tyte water pump oem Japan. Beck Arnley dizzy rotor. BWD cap. Gold plated goodness. Still need to change basic sensors: oil pressure, coolant temp, and ECU coolant temp
Did half ass oil change and a bit more scrubbing. Got grease all over driveway now gg.[/QUOTE]
Why aren't the studs on the water pump? :o
pulley probably bolts on, that's what mine does.
I fixed my broken snowmobile! After a long while of troubleshooting I found the gaskets between the cylinders and crankcase were both broken.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/EXt7vl.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/H2nfTl.jpg[/img]
Both broken in the same place.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/0A3ydl.jpg[/img]
The bottom one is the one I made myself, and the top one is an old broken one.
Runs great now, looking forward to my first trip ever with a few buddies tomorrow!
Ohhhgod, I can already tell it when I rebuild my VW 1.8L 8v engine EVERYTHING is going to be perfect and shinny.
Rusty Studs? NOPE
Rusty Flywheel? NOPE
Discolored Pistons? NOPE
Huge plans are in mind. I just got to get my ass out there and pull the engine...
[QUOTE=KillerTele;38828298]I fixed my broken snowmobile! After a long while of troubleshooting I found the gaskets between the cylinders and crankcase were both broken.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/EXt7vl.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/H2nfTl.jpg[/img]
Both broken in the same place.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/0A3ydl.jpg[/img]
The bottom one is the one I made myself, and the top one is an old broken one.
Runs great now, looking forward to my first trip ever with a few buddies tomorrow![/QUOTE]
Those look like the piston on my weed whacker, I just soaked in gasoline and sanded softly with ultra-fine grit and they look like new now
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