[QUOTE=Sobek-;38872050]
Good news : It was the starter motor that shit itself, the flywheel is intact and fine, and everything else looks tidy. [/QUOTE]
Damn that looks like the bolt came loose or something and rotated your starter
[QUOTE=Koenigsegg;38873244]You'll have that baby up and purring in no time![/QUOTE] Thanks, engine is pretty much shot though, just getting it up and running so I can use it in an emergency if I have to. Gonna pull the engine later on regardless. Bought MT-90 Redline GL-4 for the tranny flush soon too.
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;38873955]Damn that looks like the bolt came loose or something and rotated your starter[/quote]
Haha nope, all bolts were intact and fine - they all took a good breaking to get loose. I think I know what's happened though... When I put everything back together and that injector leaked, I fixed that but accidentally left two of the coil packs unplugged. I think when I tried to start it the next time, the rear two cylinders flooded and locked, jarring the starter and exposing that existing weakness in the 16 year old casing. The starter on my 7's been through a lot of shit - since I've owned it it's had to do a lot of cranking due to all the work I've been doing, so it was likely just it's time to give up.
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;38873955]Thanks, engine is pretty much shot though, just getting it up and running so I can use it in an emergency if I have to. Gonna pull the engine later on regardless. Bought MT-90 Redline GL-4 for the tranny flush soon too.[/QUOTE]
What's actually wrong with the engine?
[QUOTE=Sobek-;38874140]
What's actually wrong with the engine?[/QUOTE]
Girlfriend's 240sx. Several missed maintenance intervals and general neglect of previous owner.
Interesting; actually may need a new starter also. Solenoid not kicking out as it should, it actually wants to retract back during spinning
Oh well, if it's just sludged up and all that, open it up and spray it down clean?
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;38874169]Girlfriend's 240sx. Several missed maintenance intervals and general neglect of previous owner.
Interesting; actually may need a new starter also. Solenoid not kicking out as it should, it actually wants to retract back during spinning[/QUOTE]
bump start it for a year, like a proper gentlement should for his Gf
Got the 95 Accord today, 450 and I get a recurring rebate in the future for doing work on future "for sale" cars.
After I got 25 bux worth of fuel in it, it purrs like a cougar, which if you didn't know is the largest cat that can still purr.
It needs:
CV axels, both sides
Thermostat
Plugs and wires
Passenger Mirror (complete, it kinda flops there)
Passenger headlight realignment
Hood bent straight (the corners don't sit flush)
Driver door lock motor (dunno what's wrong, the motor just buzzes)
Passenger window check (the glass tilts forward)
Center console (maybe if I feel like it)
Other then that it appears solid.
That's about the best you're gonna get for $450
[QUOTE=Del91;38887699]That's about the best you're gonna get for $450[/QUOTE]
I've seen cars here go for way more with same or worse issues, it WAS going to be 700.
A bandit I am.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;38887306]Got the 95 Accord today, 450 and I get a recurring rebate in the future for doing work on future "for sale" cars.
After I got 25 bux worth of fuel in it, it purrs like a cougar, which if you didn't know is the largest cat that can still purr.
It needs:
CV axels, both sides
Thermostat
Plugs and wires
Passenger Mirror (complete, it kinda flops there)
Passenger headlight realignment
Hood bent straight (the corners don't sit flush)
Driver door lock motor (dunno what's wrong, the motor just buzzes)
Passenger window check (the glass tilts forward)
Center console (maybe if I feel like it)
Other then that it appears solid.[/QUOTE]
In the future; there's a reason it's $450:
headgasket
exhaust manifold studs and bolts
random gaskets
random engine sensors (coolant temp, o2 sensors etc)
radiator + cap
radiator hoses
fuel cap
belts
battery
alternator
starter
engine mounts
random suspension bushings
wheel bearings
alignment
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;38888314]In the future; there's a reason it's $450:
headgasket
~ Parts ~[/QUOTE]
So, the same as pretty much every car on the road ever?
[QUOTE=Scientwist;38888325]So, the same as pretty much every car on the road ever?[/QUOTE]
Pretty much yeah, set aside money now. I wished I did
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;38888328]Pretty much yeah, set aside money now. I wished I did[/QUOTE]
Already got it, gonna get what I can tomorrow.
It's gonna be a long day.
[QUOTE=Del91;38887699]That's about the best you're gonna get for $450[/QUOTE]
Yesterday I almost bought a 1997 Miata for $300. Running, driving, needed a fender and headlight housing. Manual transmission and all. I was beaten to the punch by someone else, my friend Andrew and I both tried to get it though.
I'm not a big miata fan but I would drive a jet black $300 Miata.
Buy it from the guy who bought it for $400.
[editline]19th December 2012[/editline]
Say you heard rod knock and and that you checked the VIN and it is salvaged and was in 2 floods.
[QUOTE=Sobek-;38872050]After a month of sitting doing nothing, I finally received the new starter motor for my beamer. Didn't take long to pull the old one out, and sure enough it was completely rooted. For some background info (since I haven't posted here in ages); I went and pulled the whole intake manifold and replaced a boatload of gaskets, along with throwing in some new fuel injectors. First time I tried to fire it up, the car would crank but not turn over, then I noticed one of the injectors had a leaking topside O-ring, so I fixed that, went to start it again and BANG, it seized. From that point on turning the key just gave a loud CLICK, or if you were under the car you could hear it as a metal on metal BANG. I figured the starter motor was toast as the solenoid was engaging, and set about ordering a new one. Took forever to get the EXACT part but I got it a week ago and finally set to work.
Good news : It was the starter motor that shit itself, the flywheel is intact and fine, and everything else looks tidy.
Bad news : The new starter I spent a bundle on does not fit. The coons sent me a damn LHD starter while my car's RHD! ARRRGGH. Oh well, time to blow MORE money on ANOTHER starter to get the right one. Anyway, here's some pics for you all;
Starting work, those aint my legs FYI;
[IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img202/9637/starter1small.jpg[/IMG]
Here's the old starter, I have no idea what went wrong but that's some impressive damage;
[IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img100/3914/starter2w.jpg[/IMG]
Another shot, you can see how the pinion is bent out of shape, no doubt that's what shattered the casing;
[IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img13/4043/starter3.jpg[/IMG]
And here's the wrong starter I was sent (old one's on the right);
[IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img69/8259/starter4.jpg[/IMG]
Now I've got a new (used) one on the way, should have it in a few days, and the Germans are going to refund me for the other one when I send it back. The worst part about all of this is that because of this starter failure, I never got to see if all the work I did actually WORKED. So even when I do replace the starter, I have no idea if it's going to fire up this time or even work properly. I had problems in the past with a different set of the same injectors so I hope these aren't dodgy too. Time will tell.
/rant
Ps. Here she sits after a month of neglect :( Once she's up and running, I'm throwing on new tail lights and completing the lighted interior / exterior door handle mods, so keep an eye out for that!
[IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img715/6134/gettoworkj.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
<3 bimmer buddy
btw how do you like your style 95 wheels?
I'm thinking about getting a set for my 740
here's my sexy beast
[t]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vXBP481zhe4/UNJXsiVr16I/AAAAAAAAB7c/zumPo2eE7vg/s800/IMG950338.jpg[/t]
just did the new style upper radiator hose, new radiator, new expansion tank, all new power steering hoses, new front brake lines, and a new front right upper control arm
its going to need a new transmission and the valve cover gaskets soon
[editline]19th December 2012[/editline]
also how did you do your CCFLs? they look sensual
[editline]19th December 2012[/editline]
oh and how is driving it at night with the tint
i've not owned a car with tint so i don't know how it would be driving around
[QUOTE=dbk21894;38898309]
oh and how is driving it at night with the tint
i've not owned a car with tint so i don't know how it would be driving around[/QUOTE]
I could shine some light on this... I have 5% in the back and 30% up front.
The tint is extreamly nice for your passengers, they could do what ever they want.
But when it becomes nighttime...uhhh CANT SEE SHIT CAPT.
Literly the reason I put a switch in my audi to activate both of the rear fogs, turnsignals, breaklights, and reverse lights was to even see behind me...
10/10 Would get darker tint.
[editline]dzgn[/editline]
There are also allot of benefits.
That person behind you likes High-Beams? Looks like whole team is baby's to me.
[QUOTE=dbk21894;38898309]<3 bimmer buddy
btw how do you like your style 95 wheels?
I'm thinking about getting a set for my 740[/QUOTE]
Maaate! Finally another person here that isn't driving a little ricer burner 3 series or something hahaha (it's ok they're cool, but we've got to set some standards!). Style 95's were a natural choice for me - I wanted a bit of a professional look that was easy to clean and maintain. Style 95 is essentially the go-to choice of wheels on these cars for that style. The majority of people with 7's (as you probably know) run with Mpars... I don't really mind those but they're way too common and aggressively styled for my tastes. On a 7 I see two primary choices - Mpars if you want sporty, Style 95 if you want professionalism or whatever.
I got my set of 4 95's for a bargain - $500. They're 18" which means they're replicas, but they're some of the best replicas I've ever seen - bar the lack of the BBS stamp on the backside, you simply would not know. But if you're going to go Style 95, go 19". Just don't get them from the dealership or you'll be looking at about $2,000 just for the rims.
[QUOTE=dbk21894;38898309]here's my sexy beast
[t]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vXBP481zhe4/UNJXsiVr16I/AAAAAAAAB7c/zumPo2eE7vg/s800/IMG950338.jpg[/t]
just did the new style upper radiator hose, new radiator, new expansion tank, all new power steering hoses, new front brake lines, and a new front right upper control arm
its going to need a new transmission and the valve cover gaskets soon[/QUOTE]
Nice! I'm guessing it's a 2001? (body matched skirts, 750 grille, lemon slice corners etc etc). Either that or someone did it up previously haha. Thankfully mine had a new radiator installed a few years back which is good, but aside from a leaking power steering hose, everything else is good, and I fixed that hose with a new hose clamp. My VCG's are leaking like a bitch, despite them supposedly having been replaced by a reputable BMW company in Brisbane when I purchased the car (no time to do it myself then unfortunately, wish I had!). So I'll be re-doing those again soon too. Will also have the valve covers powder coated black as the gold came off ages ago and prior to buying it, someone painted mine silver. The silver is on good but if I'm taking those things off, they're getting a powder coat, no two ways about it!
[QUOTE=dbk21894;38898309]also how did you do your CCFLs? they look sensual
oh and how is driving it at night with the tint
i've not owned a car with tint so i don't know how it would be driving around[/QUOTE]
I've got LED AE's installed, not ccfl! I'm very seriously considering switching to CCFL's though, they'll do just fine in our weather here but the main reason I want to is to use these;
[URL]http://www.bavtoys.com/thinline.php[/URL]
[t]http://www.bavtoys.com/images/compare.jpg[/t]
Thinline AE's. I cannot stress enough how awesome the thinlines look compared to any standard CCFL or LED set of eyes, even against the Umnitza 120led versions. The only downside is CCFL's can't really be dimmed, and that's a shame. I installed my AE's in behind the glass headlight casings (facelift is plastic... don't let those get clouded!!!). Wasn't too hard and I had to do some drilling in the headlight's plastic enclosure to route wires, but it all worked great. I also wired in a potentiometer so I could control the brightness of the AE's as desired.
Don't worry about the tint. Are you in Australia too? We have pretty pathetic laws on tint so you really can't go too dark anyway... But mine are as dark as you can get AND I rock the VIP curtains in the backseat - no issues at all. Visibility is perfectly fine, the police won't give you any problems ever - definitely go for it man. Just make sure it's done right because if some shithouse does the tintjob wrong it could give you squealy windows or stuck up/down motion, the clearance is very tight and specific on these car's windows.
*edit* As DPkiller said, tint is the way to go. With the darkness of my tint combined with the rear screen tinting and curtains, privacy is 100%. Like, you can shine a torch at the back window and still barely see anything in there :D
[t]http://imageshack.us/a/img203/3874/newrearcurtainsview.jpg[/t]
Got the parts I needed today, spent around 400. Wasn't just parts, got brake fluid, Marvel Mystery oil, Motor honey, 2 LED STT lights and an OBD II computer reader.
Acetron CP9190 for $208, was on sale so I figured fuck it people ask me to fix their cars all the time any way might as well get the damn thing to eliminate
a ton of manual searching for problems.
Current work, AKA what I started on first because DARK:
[url=http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/CAM00021_zps86dd4ee2.jpg]Link because huge[/url]
The Outside, taken 3 days ago.
[url=http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/2012-12-07163625_zps256acfe9.jpg]Also huge[/url]
My title applys here.
Yep - its a 2001 740i M Sport...the hard to find one :)
I've got the MPars, and they're too gaudy for me. Also, I'm in the US (DC area) so tint laws are a lot more lax here. I have a really good BMW specialist who does TNT tint, so if I have it done it will be there. Unfortunately, it doesn't have the convenience package so it doesn't have power folding mirrors or rear sunshades. However, I lucked out and it has heated front and rear seats. It has the proper sport package as well, so it has the sport comfort seats. They're so fucking comfortable.
As for the cooling system....apparently this car does not like them. The radiator was done two years ago, along with the expansion tank and upper radiator hose. But somehow the plastic housing around the radiator got cracked and it was leaking like a mofo. So all in all, I've put about 2,700 into it after buying it, for 7,650.
I have some great ideas on how to sex it up a bit, but it will need some TLC over the next few months. The tranny is losing reverse, and I don't have the easy to find one. I have the M spec with the high stall torque converter, which are really hard to find used with low mileage. I might have to end up buying a new transmission from the dealership. It's drivable for now, but at some point I will lose the forward gears. The VCGs were also replaced like 3 years ago but they've shat themselves since then for no reason whatsoever. So that's a bit of work that I have to do.
I need to get the DIS software so I can program the computer...like lock when in drive. I also need to upgrade to the MKIV nav system. I'm on MKIII with the wide screen.
Ahh cool, very hard combination of things to find! I don't have any electric shades (kind of thankful for that to be honest, they're hair tearing when they start to play up). But you're right, the cooling systems are simply the weakest point on these cars besides the timing chains... That's why I'm glad I've got an M60 - virtually no cares in the world about my timing chain guides disintegrating one day :D
Not good news on the tranny. You may lose reverse altogether but not necessarily any of the forward gears, but the real problem there is that you either replace it or have a FULL rebuild done - the reverse pack is right at the back and everything will have to come out of the tranny just to get to that one. Then there's the notorious short lifespan of most rebuilt tranny's anyway... yeah, best to just drive it till it carks and throw in a new one. You could throw in some shudder fix or something to see if the additive helps, could buy you a little more time.
With your VCG's, they shit themselves quickly because whoever does the work fails to properly clean the mating tracks on both the covers and the block, so the spoiled magnesium and oil residue creates indentations and pockets around the gaskets, making them completely useless. I know they didn't do that on mine having looked at them, so that's why when I do it I'm going to do it all myself and do it PROPERLY.
Hate giving my 7 for anyone else to work on...
I've got a few unique options on my 7 too, being one of the rarer euro specced 730's. Mine's running the Brembo 4 pot brakes on the front, and it's got the 3,23 diff and tranny from the M3, so it's remarkably quick off the line for a 3.0L! Everything's pre-wired on mine for power folding mirrors, heated seats etc, so I may look at optioning out a few things in the future, but truth be told it never gets cold enough here to justify heated ANYTHING. Personally I do prefer to keep things simple - the less computer control the better. Being a 96, mine's got no DSC, ASC, TC, no steptronic, none of that nonsense haha. Just me and the road :)
~snip~
Sobek beats my brains out with BMW knowledge.
EDIT: Bro you rated to fast.
Yeah, I had a long talk with my shop about the tranny, and I'm not looking for a rebuild. I did a rebuild on the mercedes, but that was a much more simple piece of machinery. The tranny on this is just too much of a pain in the ass to deal with. If it has to be taken apart, I'm getting a new one. What's strange is it isn't throwing any codes, the fluid isn't burnt or dirty, and its nice and full. I have a feeling that it's a cracked valve body, or a clutch. I'm just going to baby it for the next few months until I lose reverse completely, then I'm going to deal with it. I don't have the time (or money) to deal with it now. It's got 94,000mi on the clock, and its going to run for a lot more if I take care of it.
It has some nice upgrades to it as well. I've got the oversized tires, 245 up front, 285 in the rear. It also has the DICE iPod integration system, with the ashtray dock. I love that thing. I had doubts about it at first, but it works flawlessly. To be honest, I haven't found anything that I don't like about this car. It is my baby <3
[editline]20th December 2012[/editline]
Also, my friend has a 2002 530i and his alternator went for no reason at all last week. It was tested by the shop like a month ago and it was fine. I think it was because they were blowing the leaves where he lives and some particulate matter got into the cooling system for the alt. I'm glad I have the water cooled one...no leaves in there for me!
Cool, that's probably the best you can do. If it were me I would probably still chuck some kind of additive in... best case scenario it helps considerably, worst case it does absolutely nothing. And fat wheels, geez! My 95's are running 245 front and 255 rear, but I was thinking about replacing all 4 with new GOOD 255's all around. Just have to decide if I prefer the fatter look though.
I'd probably prefer an air cooled alternator myself, they're really not that hard to clean up. Mine is the original and has never been touched, but even 16 years later after I removed the vent, there was barely any muck in there at all - it all comes down to where you live I suppose!
Oh, and with the style 95s, did you have to use spacers? If I have to drill them or use spacers I'm not getting them.
[QUOTE=dbk21894;38902450]Yeah, I had a long talk with my shop about the tranny, and I'm not looking for a rebuild. I did a rebuild on the mercedes, but that was a much more simple piece of machinery. The tranny on this is just too much of a pain in the ass to deal with. If it has to be taken apart, I'm getting a new one.[/QUOTE]
It might be cheaper to find a tranny from a guy parting his car out than rebuilding a used one.
So I got around to changing the coolant sensors today. GF's s13 has seen better days. Harness connectors are just rotted to fuck and fell apart when I disconnected them. ECU coolant sensor harness has the wires exposed and I guess they short sometimes. The O2 sensor wire has just twisted itself to shreds. Explains all the bogging stuff when the ECU can't even configure proper air/fuel ratio.
Gonna go to yard and cut some harness connectors out! Wouldn't mind a din pocket too
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;38903663]It might be cheaper to find a tranny from a guy parting his car out than rebuilding a used one.
[/QUOTE]
that's what the plan is
I'm not rebuilding shit. If I can find one with less than 60k miles on it, with the proper M spec, then I'll go for it. Otherwise, it will have to be a new one from the dealer.
Cleaned out and vacuumed the car today, decided I would try to hook up my o2 simulator. Got the seats out, spent 20 minutes struggling under the dash to find the o2 sensor plug to find it was simply tucked right under the carpet where I was looking the whole time.. Had to use 3 different things to try to snip the wires, finally got it chopped off.
Spent a while trying to find a wiring diagram and failed since nobody in the honda scene can understand why anyone would want to hook up something in the stock location retaining full functionality rather than hacking straight into the ECU harness. Went at trying to find the 12v heater wire only to have the multimeter tell me that neither have power and then randomly arc, short and provide the wonderful fuse popping noise.
Turned around to get up after getting frustrated with something which obviously is fucking hot not working with the multimeter. Put weight on my right leg and my knee decided to give a wonderful loud and painful pop like every single time I work on wiring on a vehicle. Said fuck that shit, unplugged it from the plug and proceeded to put the seats back in and continue vacuuming in uncomfortable pain.
Started the car, noticed all the dash lights were stupidly dim drove it into the garage and turned it off. Didn't pull it in all the way and my shit ass starter which has been acting up decided to not work for a couple minutes of trying.
Why does something rather simple have to be so fucking hard, drawn out, difficult and miserable?
Now I have to stay off my leg for a couple days and there's no fucking way I can twist around to check fuses and finish up wiring it soon..
My dad came down and helped me get rid of all the dead engines and extra metal around the garage. Took it all down to Davis Ind. and got rid of all of it and got some cash in return.
[IMG]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8504/8292944710_7c8ce0652f_c.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8077/8292944790_ec0e946ceb_c.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8355/8292944634_e623cf5076_b.jpg[/IMG]
LS3 go go go
secured load
IN AMERICA WAHT THE FUCK WHERES YOUR FREEDOM
keep on trucking
By our powers combined, my brother and I removed the destroyed turbo from the MR2. And it's pretty much what we expected, considering the damage and how it lost boost; the turbo seals definitely blew, but thankfully it's nothing worse than we thought. So, it's replacement turbo time tomorrow.
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