I changed out my rear brake pads. I got a quick question though. My old pads had a little flat metal piece with clips that fit snugly to the side of the pad facing out. I guess these might be like wear indicators? My question is whether I need to fit the metal pieces on to my new brake pads. they don't fit too good.
Got up at 6am, and from then until 1:30pm I was elbows deep in this bloody engine. Got the new starter in, replaced the dodgy new injectors with the old stock ones, new battery in, tidied things up and drove her into town (hell, got it RUNNING) for the first time in well over a month now. Christ almighty... Now I suppose I can move on to finishing the other mods I've been looking at, but man it took a long time just to get it driving again!!
[IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img835/6016/alivel.jpg[/IMG]
[QUOTE=Reserved Parkin;39177681]I changed out my rear brake pads. I got a quick question though. My old pads had a little flat metal piece with clips that fit snugly to the side of the pad facing out. I guess these might be like wear indicators? My question is whether I need to fit the metal pieces on to my new brake pads. they don't fit too good.[/QUOTE]
might have been a shim, my fronts have shims and if you dont get them in right the brake pad rides against the rotor.
[QUOTE=Sobek-;39177882]Got up at 6am, and from then until 1:30pm I was elbows deep in this bloody engine. Got the new starter in, replaced the dodgy new injectors with the old stock ones, new battery in, tidied things up and drove her into town (hell, got it RUNNING) for the first time in well over a month now. Christ almighty... Now I suppose I can move on to finishing the other mods I've been looking at, but man it took a long time just to get it driving again!!
[IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img835/6016/alivel.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
It's so sexy
I wish mine didn't need a new transmission :(
But just think how much fun it's going to be when you finally get that sorted... (ok that was some lame cliche crap to say but you know that feeling). Mine's due for a service at least - it's done 78,000 miles, not quite the 100,000 miles that's recommended, but it's worth doing sooner rather than later.
Forgot to mention... earlier I also replaced all of the spark plug boots and fitted new hub centric rings to all four wheels, as they were shaking the car to bits at anything past 40km/h. Rides smooth, runs good, and I'm just happy to be back in it again. Just ordered new front brake pads, and my next step will be to get those new tail lights on order and finish the door handle lighting.
Finally feel like everything's coming together!!
Put in my fuel chip, also found out my ignition box was not chippable (fuck me).
Anyways I installed the injectors again, this time I got an extra one that worked. I ran cleaner through them, installed new o rings, and painted them. They are perfect and run really nice. Overall I think I did quite a bit tonight.
[QUOTE=Waffle99;39178764]might have been a shim, my fronts have shims and if you dont get them in right the brake pad rides against the rotor.[/QUOTE]
The metal plate goes on the back side of the pad. Not the side on contact with the rotor. I think I better put them on, at least to reduce noise.
[QUOTE=Hell Strike;39199640][img]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5698103/2013-01-12%2015.01.48.jpg[/img]
whoops[/QUOTE]
Timing belt?
What happened?
My skyactiv I got new on July 30th is about at its 15k oil change.....
[QUOTE=thattaco;39199776]Timing belt?
What happened?
My skyactiv I got new on July 30th is about at its 15k oil change.....[/QUOTE]
dodge stratus being a dodge stratus
I thought I saw a pentastar in that picture.
[QUOTE=Hell Strike;39199821]dodge stratus being a dodge stratus[/QUOTE]
I have Mopar brand motor oil for blood, but seriously, the cloud cars are the worst thing ever shit out by Chrysler. I would take a K car over a cloud car any day.
Fuckin Daimler. Ever do an alignment on one of those things? Unbelievable.
[QUOTE=Used Car Salesman;39200084]I have Mopar brand motor oil for blood, but seriously, the cloud cars are the worst thing ever shit out by Chrysler. I would take a K car over a cloud car any day.
Fuckin Daimler. Ever do an alignment on one of those things? Unbelievable.[/QUOTE]
Hey now, don't knock a k-car. Those things will run longer on a detonated cylinder then any other car I know of.
K cars and the spinoffs are the shit.
And the 2.2/2.5 is the best 4-cylinder engine Chrysler ever made.
I drove one that had survived an idiot pouring USED DIRTY ASS 10k+ mile old regular motor oil in because it had almost no oil in it, which he then spilled on the hot exhaust manifolds which then caused everything under the hood to catch fire, including the wires and vacuum lines. I had to rewire the electric radiator fan after almost overheating when I was got stuck in traffic on the freeway (which happened to be the day I got my license). I think I had it for about 6 months, and then I scrapped it because the motor was starting to burn quite a bit of oil and the car was rusted to pieces. It probably had 250k+ miles, but I don't know for sure since the odom was also stopped dead at 163k miles. For a while the exhaust was disconnected from the muffler too.
It started up every time I went to start it though, and went whenever I hit the gas up until a week before I scrapped it I was getting on the freeway going to work in the morning and it started coughing and sputtering. :(
[QUOTE=bradley;39200972]K cars and the spinoffs are the shit.
And the 2.2/2.5 is the best 4-cylinder engine Chrysler ever made.[/QUOTE]
My dad had a K car that would shut off on left turns.
The K-car, If you can find a better built car, [I]buy one![/I]
Ok.
[QUOTE=Concur;39206857]The K-car, If you can find a better built car, [I]buy one![/I]
Ok.[/QUOTE]
Quite few were better built in it's day, and some [i]still[/i] aren't.
Anywhoozer, awhile back I talked about fearing my head gasket might be bad (or something) and I was told if bubbles come from the rad when the cap is off, then it is.
Now, about how many bubbles are supposed to come out just a few or like crazy? Or does it depend on how bad it is?
I flushed it again a little bit ago and [i]some[/i] bubbles came out, but every few seconds roughly between 2 and 10 seconds.
Should I prepare myself?
[QUOTE=Scientwist;39211647]Quite few were better built in it's day, and some [i]still[/i] aren't.
Anywhoozer, awhile back I talked about fearing my head gasket might be bad (or something) and I was told if bubbles come from the rad when the cap is off, then it is.
Now, about how many bubbles are supposed to come out just a few or like crazy? Or does it depend on how bad it is?
I flushed it again a little bit ago and [i]some[/i] bubbles came out, but every few seconds roughly between 2 and 10 seconds.
Should I prepare myself?[/QUOTE]
What kind of car is it and what year is it and mileage.
You might have a bit of air trapped in the system after doing a flush.
If you didn't bleed the air outta your cooling system after doing a flush, do that first.
[QUOTE=Squad;39211770]What kind of car is it and what year is it and mileage.[/QUOTE]
95 Honda Accord V6.
Miles: 137,801
[QUOTE=Scientwist;39211934]95 Honda Accord V6.
Miles: 137,801[/QUOTE]
There are test kits to use for finding if the head gasket is blown, but if you rev your engine while checking for bubbles, you should see a rush of bubbles with the revving of the engine.
But a simple test and pretty definitive if done correctly is to test your coolant for signs of combustion products.
[QUOTE=Squad;39215052]There are test kits to use for finding if the head gasket is blown, but if you rev your engine while checking for bubbles, you should see a rush of bubbles with the revving of the engine.
But a simple test and pretty definitive if done correctly is to test your coolant for signs of combustion products.[/QUOTE]
Well there's no rush of bubbles and I don't see any carbon deposits or oil. I did however get a "cannon shot" of water from the exhaust when I gunned it, but thats prolly just from the catalytic doing it's thing.
And there's DEFINITELY no water in the oil. So I guess I'm safe. I'm still baffled as to why it heats up so fast, I think It still has gunk in the water channels. I've got to get some acid flush.
Thermostat malfunctioning?
[video=youtube;zUpXgAJ1gjU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1gjU[/video]
This video might help you out, EricTheCarGuy makes some pretty good videos and they're normally on Hondas too.
could someone give me a suggestion? i have a 88' buick riviera, recently it started stuttering, stalling in idle and hiccup while driving, quite annoying, i had a friend hookup a testing tool, said it was camshaft sensor, so i replaced that, didn't work, people kept suggesting that it's missing, and to replace plugs and wires, because mine were OLD as fuck, so i did, i kept reading online, people saying it could be mass air flow sensor, so i popped the baby off, cleaned it with some cleaner from autozone, put it on, still same problem, when i unplug it, the car runs a BIT better, but still really shitty, idk what else to try or do , it's just a big headache..
Replace the MAF, they break sometimes and there is nothing you can do but replace them.
[QUOTE=Siminov;39216657]Thermostat malfunctioning?[/QUOTE]
Shouldn't be, it's brand new.
[QUOTE=slayer3032;39218157][video=youtube;zUpXgAJ1gjU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1gjU[/video]
This video might help you out, EricTheCarGuy makes some pretty good videos and they're normally on Hondas too.[/QUOTE]
Thanks, and the guy is pretty straight forward about it too. Cept' when it comes to the bleeder thing, I had done that first as I already knew of it. It might have been getting bubbles from the flush thing I got.
However one thing is still at the back of my mind... How mush water can a catalytic make from normal use?
Cuz I gunned it and shot a burst of water out about 2 feet from the exhaust, I'm thinking (praying) it was just build up.
Also, got my drivers door lock actuator. Common honda problem of "ka-chunk ka-chunk" sound after a broken actuator.
Putting it in [i]NOW![/i]
Like a hose or just a couple drips?
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