[QUOTE=Del91;39224267]Like a hose or just a couple drips?[/QUOTE]
Like one solid burst, of course as the car is not tagged yet, I've been idling it to keep the battery charged. But that was till I got a new one yesterday.
I was considering loosening the exhaust just before the catalytic to see if water is coming from there.
I'm afraid of what I might find.
[QUOTE=antid2;39223894]could someone give me a suggestion? i have a 88' buick riviera, recently it started stuttering, stalling in idle and hiccup while driving, quite annoying, i had a friend hookup a testing tool, said it was camshaft sensor, so i replaced that, didn't work, people kept suggesting that it's missing, and to replace plugs and wires, because mine were OLD as fuck, so i did, i kept reading online, people saying it could be mass air flow sensor, so i popped the baby off, cleaned it with some cleaner from autozone, put it on, still same problem, when i unplug it, the car runs a BIT better, but still really shitty, idk what else to try or do , it's just a big headache..[/QUOTE]
Essentially, if you unplug a MAF and the car runs at all better, it's generally a pretty sure-fire indication that the MAF is at fault. It should make a fairly large difference when you disconnect it if it's faulty, but really due to the complex nature of these electronics, there's no real specifics regarding exactly how good or bad it should run depending on the condition of your exact MAF.
I know they're not always cheap, but it's your next most obvious part to investigate. Try and find one you can borrow to test perhaps?
unplugged maf shouldn't affect idle
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;39224791]unplugged maf shouldn't affect idle[/QUOTE]
definitely does on my 95 mustang gt
was thinking of trying to find a decent one at a junk yard..didn't know if it was a good idea or not, because currently the cheapest is 150$ lol so it'll be a while before i can get that, but was thinking of paying firestone 100$ for a complete inspection, but im a skeptic..on giving people money to do something i can, i've just become so frustrated with this damn thing lol
Driver side P. lock works right now. But to just see if there would be moar water from the exhaust, I started and gunned it.
*sploof* Some water came out. Again a burst about 2 foot long, not large amount but I'm concerned.
It's not sputtering or anything like that.
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;39224791]unplugged maf shouldn't affect idle[/QUOTE]
It absolutely should...
If I unplugged the MAF on my BMW, I'd have a lumpy, shaking chugging motor in a split second. Even a car as old as his relies heavily on it for proper air metering.
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;39224791]unplugged maf shouldn't affect idle[/QUOTE]
I've never seen a case where a MAF or MAP being unplugged hasn't affected the engine at all, idling or not. On pretty much any Ford product I've ever seen, unplugging the MAF (or even removing the hose going from MAF to TB) will cause the vehicle to flat out die while idling. Happens on a lot of GM products too so I'm going to assume it's pretty normal.
Trying to convince cletus to bring the monte carlo into class, check if his trans (turbo 350?) needs a new vac line (shifting problem at wot), and to tighten up the alternator belt.
Also so errybody can jelly of dat gloss black SS.
toyota closed loop operation doesn't use readout from the maf.
that's how you rule out if your maf is fucked up (because standard procedure and ohm resistance only give you the iat readout, stupid service manual)
Tried changing my oil a few weeks ago with great failure. Managed to jack the car up (Just about) but the oil sump plug is on like it's been welded. I don't have any power tools. It was last off about 8 months ago. I'm told the engine being hot will make it easier to remove, but doesn't metal expand when hot?
Hot oil is thinner and drains faster.
Hopefuly the person who changed your oil didnt put loc-tite on the plug, cross thread it, or tork it past gut-n-tite
[QUOTE=Adamhully;39231551]Tried changing my oil a few weeks ago with great failure. Managed to jack the car up (Just about) but the oil sump plug is on like it's been welded. I don't have any power tools. It was last off about 8 months ago. I'm told the engine being hot will make it easier to remove, but doesn't metal expand when hot?[/QUOTE]
Well there are some pros and cons to that.
To answer the first question, yes metal expands when heated. Different metals expand at different rates. So if your plug expands less than the threads it will be easier to get out.
However, changing your oil with a warm car can be a bit tricky. If you often get oil on you when you pull your plug, then you might feel a bit warmer oil running down your arm if you decide to warm the car up first.
The advantage though is that your oil will flow better with it being warm.
[QUOTE=Siminov;39223925]Replace the MAF, they break sometimes and there is nothing you can do but replace them.[/QUOTE]
He could at least try cleaning it first.
[editline]15th January 2013[/editline]
[QUOTE=Sobek-;39226258]It absolutely should...
If I unplugged the MAF on my BMW, I'd have a lumpy, shaking chugging motor in a split second. Even a car as old as his relies heavily on it for proper air metering.[/QUOTE]
Interestingly enough, this isn't always the case. On my E36, when I disconnected the MAF, the car ran smoother because the O2 sensors had been removed and the holes plugged.
[QUOTE=Squad;39231842]Well there are some pros and cons to that.
To answer the first question, yes metal expands when heated. Different metals expand at different rates. So if your plug expands less than the threads it will be easier to get out.
However, changing your oil with a warm car can be a bit tricky. If you often get oil on you when you pull your plug, then you might feel a bit warmer oil running down your arm if you decide to warm the car up first.
The advantage though is that your oil will flow better with it being warm.[/QUOTE]
I did plan to change it while the engine was hot, I have latex gloves so I should be fine depending on my reflexes. What I might do is crack is loose when the engine is cold, make sure it won't leak or anything, heat the engine up then change the oil.
When I tried last time i was lying down, and tried to loosen it so hard I just ended up pulling myself towards the car, my whole body. Think WD-40 10 mins before might help too?
[QUOTE=Adamhully;39232341]I did plan to change it while the engine was hot, I have latex gloves so I should be fine depending on my reflexes. What I might do is crack is loose when the engine is cold, make sure it won't leak or anything, heat the engine up then change the oil.
When I tried last time i was lying down, and tried to loosen it so hard I just ended up pulling myself towards the car, my whole body. Think WD-40 10 mins before might help too?[/QUOTE]
Don't try and remove it while the engine is cold. It's possible that you may strip the threads on the oil pan, which is a major pain in the ass as you either have to A. Tap and die with a larger bolt, or B. drill a hole and tap/die a new bolt. If you're having a hard time breaking the bolt loose, there's a couple things you could try. My first suggestion is to jack the car up higher than you did before, the higher the car is, the easier it gets. Invest $20 on a pair of jack stands at your local autozone, jack up the front end at least a foot and a half off the ground if not two feet, and place the car on the stands. If all you have is a wrench or a short ratchet, find a piece of pipe that's large enough to slip over the handle of your wrench/ratchet and use it to give yourself some more torque on the drain bolt (this is called a cheater pipe). If you're STILL having a hard time, get some PB Plaster or Liquid Wrench and spray that bitch down. Let it sit for at least 10-20 minutes before you try again.
You'd be surprised at what a little elbow grease can do too, don't be afraid about the car going anywhere, it weighs thousands of pounds and is not going to fall off of the jack/stands if you're on a level surface. Put your whole body into it and it'll probably break loose.
As for hot oil, don't even worry about it burning your hands. Once the bolt is lose, spin it free with your fingers and pull it away, a minimal amount of oil will get on your hands if you approach it from an angle. It's really not *that* hot. Oh, and don't forget to take the oil filler cap off first, the oil will flow faster that way.
Also, when you put the bolt back on, DON'T overtighten it like the last person did. A couple cranks of the wrench once it's finger tight is all you really need. Same thing goes for the oil filter itself; it only needs to be hand tight. When you remove the old filter, make SURE the rubber gasket around the lip of the filter is still there on the old one, sometimes they get stuck to the block and can cause leakage when you put in a new filter with a new gasket. Doubling up gaskets is a common first-time mistake.
Thanks, I did use jack stands but my dumbshit trolley jack was pulling the car once I tried to jack up the second side, almost pulling it off the first jack stand. Bought some 'quality' wood to jack up on so it's more level, and now the jack digs into the wood and does the same thing. Don't have any flat concrete nearby. I may need harder wood if i want the car higher.
[QUOTE=Adamhully;39233353]Thanks, I did use jack stands but my dumbshit trolley jack was pulling the car once I tried to jack up the second side, almost pulling it off the first jack stand. Bought some 'quality' wood to jack up on so it's more level, and now the jack digs into the wood and does the same thing. Don't have any flat concrete nearby. I may need harder wood if i want the car higher.[/QUOTE]
Instead of jacking the car up from one side or the other, jack the front end up by the engine crossmember. This will jack up the front end evenly so you can slide jackstands under the frame rails on both sides. Also, chock the wheels that are staying on the ground BEFORE you start jacking, that way the jack won't push/pull in random directions as the weight distributes.
Eugh, 80's and automotive wiring.
GF's headlights pop up but won't go down now. Somehow when my girlfriend was playing around with the lights they stayed up. Now have to half ass a lot of things to make it work somehow.
it just wanted to show it's beautiful headlight(*COUGH*eyes*COUGH)
So yeah, timing control unit has a burnt trace. Cool, I turned the car upside down for this:
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/EnvUA.png[/IMG]
Will solder a wire in its place and hopefully headlights will function normally
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;39245287]So yeah, timing control unit has a burnt trace. Cool, I turned the car upside down for this:
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/EnvUA.png[/IMG]
Will solder a wire in its place and hopefully headlights will function normally[/QUOTE]
I remember back when you were afraid to change your drive belts. Good for you brah!
I'm a very happy chap today, really. Now that the 7's up and running again, I've been getting stuck into finishing up what work I had left. I replaced the front and rear BMW roundels with new ones, so they're looking schmick, but I also got stuck into replacing my ancient TV module with something a bit more modern. This is how my onboard computer looked previously;
[IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img528/7430/obcweird.jpg[/IMG]
I bought a new 16:9 TV module from Latvia at a not so insignificant cost, but found that it simply didn't work - got a white screen that faded to black slowly. I tried everything, and pretty much gave up, but then I read from someone in a random post somewhere online that they had to leave it installed and drive their car for a while for it to 'learn' the new module was there - made no sense to me as I was replacing a TV module with a TV module, nothing to learn. Last night about 2am before I went to bed I figured "Screw it, why not", installed the module and left it overnight. I opened the car up this morning to go to work, and to my surprise I was greeted with a black screen with a datestamp at the bottom... could it be? Turned the key, fired it up and...
[IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img690/8783/e38bluescreen.jpg[/IMG]
Beautiful. Now it's all ready to go once I stick the 16:9 widescreen in. I'm totally stoked.
So uh, I did turn the girlfriend's 240sx upside down
to find the only thing broken was a mechanical failure at the steering column switch. 80's sunburnt plastic. Very common with 240sx' after a while a plastic piece will shatter inside the stalk thing and even if you turn on the popups, they won't go down.
Transplanted the good switch from my 240 into her's and it works go figure. She bought one from an auto store today will install it tomorrow. :)
[QUOTE=Sobek-;39249782]I'm a very happy chap today, really. Now that the 7's up and running again, I've been getting stuck into finishing up what work I had left. I replaced the front and rear BMW roundels with new ones, so they're looking schmick, but I also got stuck into replacing my ancient TV module with something a bit more modern. This is how my onboard computer looked previously;
[IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img528/7430/obcweird.jpg[/IMG]
I bought a new 16:9 TV module from Latvia at a not so insignificant cost, but found that it simply didn't work - got a white screen that faded to black slowly. I tried everything, and pretty much gave up, but then I read from someone in a random post somewhere online that they had to leave it installed and drive their car for a while for it to 'learn' the new module was there - made no sense to me as I was replacing a TV module with a TV module, nothing to learn. Last night about 2am before I went to bed I figured "Screw it, why not", installed the module and left it overnight. I opened the car up this morning to go to work, and to my surprise I was greeted with a black screen with a datestamp at the bottom... could it be? Turned the key, fired it up and...
[IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img690/8783/e38bluescreen.jpg[/IMG]
Beautiful. Now it's all ready to go once I stick the 16:9 widescreen in. I'm totally stoked.[/QUOTE]
[img]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xoErF65GFmg/ULlCdFuOAwI/AAAAAAAAB34/U7v6CVrWrfM/s1152/2012-11-30_18-33-43_364.jpg[/img]
Yeaaaahhhhhhh
Is that a night time mode colour? Be thankful you've already got a 16:9 man... being a RHD car, there are literally only a handful of purpose built RHD 16:9 modules that were made for E38's only, and they're basically impossible to buy. If I use a 16:9 from ANY other car, RHD or not, I'll have to cut some of the air duct away and patch it up with flexi-tape or some nonsense.
So when I decide to put it in, I'll have to get out the blades and files etc etc. No way on this earth will I ever find a RHD E38 16:9 for sale :(
I played around with the colors a bunch. I don't remember what mode it was on in that pic, but I have it on color 3 and that was night mode.
hnnnnnnnnnng you guys are making me want to get the RNS-E.
Sobek that looks classy as fuk with the wood grain built into it.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/MDR4T.png[/IMG]
1988 version by the updated 1993 lighting stalk version; the printing in the earlier one is just painted on while the newer one is embedded into the handle
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