[QUOTE=bradley;39304464]Such cute little turbos :')[/QUOTE]
It's not little.
It's medium sized :v:
[QUOTE=Concur;39301527]Changed valve cover gasket on the Jeep, broke one of the bolts (230 in/lb spec, got to 200 and it just popped off)
My dad says it wont leak, not sure If I trust.[/QUOTE]
Don't trust, it's a Jeep. VCG's on Jeeps are like their biggest weakness... My dad used to love cursing about them all night long. Shit, even my '95 Cherokee has the WORST rocker cover gasket leak that despite 15 replacements and endless experimentation simply cannot be prevented from leaking. Asshole bastard of a thing.
[QUOTE=Siminov;39304926]It's not little.
It's medium sized :v:[/QUOTE]
It's average I swear! Lots of people's are that size.
Installed lowering springs on my Sentra yesterday! The front springs took a good hour each due to running into a few issues. The back was so much easier, just jacked the car up and lowered the rear axle, springs came out with just a light pull.
[img]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/399163_10151221762178021_2104446500_n.jpg[/img]
Going to get this going on friday and if everything checks out buy it from my friend for $1000, the price is split 50/50 between me and my friend so I only have to pay $500.
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/Scrap%20haulin%20truck/AF8A460A-DCCF-4499-9308-DC8012104782-9807-00000B247E9C2BF2.jpg[/thumb]
link to the album: [url]http://s1067.beta.photobucket.com/user/Lawblind/media/Scrap%20haulin%20truck/99F2AA51-FF59-4C15-9E25-2F7F3108102E-9807-00000B249090FEC8.jpg.html[/url]
It is a 1976 (assumed) Dodge D300 with a all steel dump truck box with working hydraulics, pushing this beast around is a 360 with a 4 speed manual (fuck year), granny low first gear and a pretty much overdrive fourth gear (A833OD), 2 barrel carb (might keep it to stay low on fuel), nothing really special on it. Might throw the headers I have on if they fit, could do with freshening up the engine but it is a work truck. The truck looks pretty grimy in the pictures which is what I'm looking for, grime rubs off, rust isn't bad at all, haven't seen the floors but they felt solid and the bench in it has no rips.
After we get it home we are doing a full fluid flush, cleaning the snot out of it, and making sure everything is in top working order. I'm contemplating pulling the engine and giving it a go over but Its probably best I don't touch it. Cant wait to drive this thing, 4 speed is going to be a blast. The reason we bought it is me and my friend are going to be selling a lot of scrap steel as a side job so we needed a good truck to do so so we bought this thing.
Just a VERY minor update,
This is how the Autorotor compressor sits right now, still need to do the piping, but the bracket and the stock G-lader bracket mount really good together
[img]http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/7674/imag0140lc.jpg[/img]
Had a guy come in with a ded head gasket, and needs a new clutch.
Just took off the Rockers and Push rods soon to be done and then the long process of plugging everything back together will begin soon.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/DFYlH1d.jpg[/IMG]
No holes hatch door for $65 at the yard yesterday; now need to get another for GF
Was going to bust loose all the stock suspension stuff I have for my Civic to put it back to stock height, turns out my rear LCAs I had are missing and the rear struts were practically welded to the LCAs out of the EJ1 (which is where I was snagging rear struts).
Too much work. So now I'm shopping for suspension. Sigh.
About to purchase a bunch of parts for the GTI. Water pumps on the VR6s almost always fail between 85-95k and mine failed at 92 so yay for consistent parts i guess. Bearing failed and is leaking coolant like crazy as well as making all the fun failed bearing noises. Figure its time for some maintenance anyway so:
>New water pump and belt
>New shifter bushings
>New bumper mounts because parking space barriers suck
>New axle
>Oil change
>4 new coil packs (had 2 go recently so i figure the others are on there way)
>New parking brake cable because my dad thinks its a competition to see who can use more muscle when setting it and snapped it
>Front pads/turn rotors
I hate that I've let her degrade as much as I have but being broke sucks.
Also BANNED USERS MR2 is back on the road after blowing its first turbo. We shall see how long it lasts this time.
Hey, I need bit of help or suggestion.
I got 318i and got angel eyes on it. Apparently when car is turned off and shut and locked, the angel eyes flicker from time to time which over 24 hours causes to flat battery. Any ideas?
[QUOTE=arleitiss;39353891]Hey, I need bit of help or suggestion.
I got 318i and got angel eyes on it. Apparently when car is turned off and shut and locked, the angel eyes flicker from time to time which over 24 hours causes to flat battery. Any ideas?[/QUOTE]
Check the wires, look to see if there could be a connection between the wires to the angel eyes and to something that's got constant power.
[QUOTE=Gulen;39354086]Check the wires, look to see if there could be a connection between the wires to the angel eyes and to something that's got constant power.[/QUOTE]
Any way to check if something is drawing power? I have voltmeter (or whatever it's called)
btw I noticed that even when engine is off, cigarrete lighter stays powered.
[QUOTE=arleitiss;39354650]Any way to check if something is drawing power? I have voltmeter (or whatever it's called)
btw I noticed that even when engine is off, cigarrete lighter stays powered.[/QUOTE]
Usually cigarette lighters stay powered in cars. The only cars I've seen that weren't powered were Nissans and maybe Toyota or Honda.
They don't actually draw power unless something is plugged into it.
[QUOTE=Squad;39358822]Usually cigarette lighters stay powered in cars. The only cars I've seen that weren't powered were Nissans and maybe Toyota or Honda.
They don't actually draw power unless something is plugged into it.[/QUOTE]
Reminds me, I need to figure out why my cig lighter doesn't work...
-snip-
My cig lighter stopped working OR it's just coulnd't handle -20F, gotta try it some da
I also managed to break my idle by lifting my air filter thingy up which caused a vacuum hose to come lose. Was easy fix once I called my neighbour to press the gas while I look for the swooosh sound in the spaghetti monster
Installed an Alpine SWR-12D4 today. I made the box too :P
(Sorry for the dark picture...)
[IMG]http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/2074/gopr6538.jpg[/IMG]
Didn't do it today, but a few days ago;
Found out the cause of my electric issue (brake light+battery light on, even though alternator and battery tested as good)
Long story short, I switched my cluster bulbs to LED's 6-8 months ago. Guess the battery and brake circuit or whatever didn't like it.
Basically, 12v goes from my battery to the cluster, threw the lights, then to the pigtail on the alternator. If it reads 12v+ threw the whole system, the lights get the okay to shut off. If it reads less somewhere, they stay on.
From the battery to the cluster, it was 12v+. After the lights, it was 9.4v and stayed 9.4v all the way to the alternator.
I switched the LED's to the OEM bulbs, and it reads the right voltage threw the whole system now. The lights are off, but won't come on now. The lights do work, I tested them in other spots on my cluster.
Ignition on, all my lights come on but brake and battery. Start the car, it runs right, those lights aren't on. If I pull my e-brake, the brake light will come on.
The only thing I can think of that would cause this is a bad cluster, but i'm not sure.
I'm thinking of just buying a small volt meter and putting it somewhere, I've tried making my battery light come on and couldn't.
I don't think it's worth buying a new cluster (~90 on ebay) and having to change the mileage on it (I couldn't stand having the wrong mileage.)
Also took off my old inspection sticker finally. Moved to NC and they don't use them here.
Planning some future work/mods/addons/goodies/etc. that are fairly cheap;
Rear strut bar (can usually get them on eBay for ~$30, free shipping)
AWD/Flat-bed tow only sticker, to put next to my VIN number. I've never been towed and don't plan on it happening, but it'd be a nice thing to put on for a couple bucks.
Rear diff carrier and support bushings
Sway bar, if i find one locally
[QUOTE=FordLord;39362500]Didn't do it today, but a few days ago;
Found out the cause of my electric issue (brake light+battery light on, even though alternator and battery tested as good)
Long story short, I switched my cluster bulbs to LED's 6-8 months ago. Guess the battery and brake circuit or whatever didn't like it.
Basically, 12v goes from my battery to the cluster, threw the lights, then to the pigtail on the alternator. If it reads 12v+ threw the whole system, the lights get the okay to shut off. If it reads less somewhere, they stay on.
From the battery to the cluster, it was 12v+. After the lights, it was 9.4v and stayed 9.4v all the way to the alternator.
I switched the LED's to the OEM bulbs, and it reads the right voltage threw the whole system now. The lights are off, but won't come on now. The lights do work, I tested them in other spots on my cluster.
Ignition on, all my lights come on but brake and battery. Start the car, it runs right, those lights aren't on. If I pull my e-brake, the brake light will come on.
The only thing I can think of that would cause this is a bad cluster, but i'm not sure.
I'm thinking of just buying a small volt meter and putting it somewhere, I've tried making my battery light come on and couldn't.
I don't think it's worth buying a new cluster (~90 on ebay) and having to change the mileage on it (I couldn't stand having the wrong mileage.)
Also took off my old inspection sticker finally. Moved to NC and they don't use them here.
Planning some future work/mods/addons/goodies/etc. that are fairly cheap;
Rear strut bar (can usually get them on eBay for ~$30, free shipping)
AWD/Flat-bed tow only sticker, to put next to my VIN number. I've never been towed and don't plan on it happening, but it'd be a nice thing to put on for a couple bucks.
Rear diff carrier and support bushings
Sway bar, if i find one locally[/QUOTE]
Perhaps solder on another transistor after the lighting circuit to bring it back up to 12V?
[QUOTE=woolio1;39362531]Perhaps solder on another transistor after the lighting circuit to bring it back up to 12V?[/QUOTE]
As it is, with the OEM lights, its the proper 12v but the lights don't work right.
With LED bulbs, after the cluster, it's only 9.4v going to the alternator and the lights stay on.
Somewhere within the cluster, it's losing that voltage when I have the LED bulbs in.
I'm not exactly sure how I'd be able to fix it, I've never taken the cluster apart far enough to see if there's a short or anything. Even then, I have no soldering equipment
[QUOTE=Squad;39358822]Usually cigarette lighters stay powered in cars. The only cars I've seen that weren't powered were Nissans and maybe Toyota or Honda.
They don't actually draw power unless something is plugged into it.[/QUOTE]
I think newer cars don't have them powered while the car is off. At least my dad's '09 9-3 didn't.
[QUOTE=Gulen;39364869]I think newer cars don't have them powered while the car is off. At least my dad's '09 9-3 didn't.[/QUOTE]
When I was driving opel corsa 2001 it didn't have lighter powered when engine is off lol
My car has three lighter sockets, two only come on when the key is turned, one is on all the time with a higher current rating. It's actually meant for the optional fridge.
[QUOTE=FordLord;39362652]As it is, with the OEM lights, its the proper 12v but the lights don't work right.
With LED bulbs, after the cluster, it's only 9.4v going to the alternator and the lights stay on.
Somewhere within the cluster, it's losing that voltage when I have the LED bulbs in.
I'm not exactly sure how I'd be able to fix it, I've never taken the cluster apart far enough to see if there's a short or anything. Even then, I have no soldering equipment[/QUOTE]
Been a while since I got my electronics stuff out but here's my theory:
LEDs are Diodes, Diodes have a voltage drop across them, Assuming they are in series and it's reading the voltage after the LED chain, you'll be seeing a drop equal to the forward voltage of all the LEDs added up.
I have master race lighter in my truck, when the lighter gets red hot It is launched out of the socket and lands on the floor/my lap depending on magic.
As did my pontiac.
[QUOTE=arleitiss;39353891]Hey, I need bit of help or suggestion.
I got 318i and got angel eyes on it. Apparently when car is turned off and shut and locked, the angel eyes flicker from time to time which over 24 hours causes to flat battery. Any ideas?[/QUOTE]
I saw your post over on BimmerForums - you'll have the best possible response there, but do give it a few days as the regulars will come and go.
The cigarette lighter staying powered on is totally normal for your car, though some users have rewired the fuses so it will disengage when the ignition is turned off. It can get a bit fiddly though as certain fuses have proper overload protection while others don't, and you want to pick the right one so everything turns off and on as they should without interference.
The cigarette lighter really shouldn't cause any power issues so unless it's a major deal (like you're having to CONSTANTLY unplug and plug in a GPS perhaps) then doing a little fusework is your best best to solve that.
Hope you get the battery drain sorted!
Uhhhhh That's red right?
Trans draining right now, going back out soon to wipe, plug, and fill.
[img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q213/C0nK3r_r3d/JEEPBLACKLABELGEARLUBE_zps1c3f27e5.jpg[/img]
lmao that shit is nasty
Misread the write up, drained from wrong plug (theres 3...)
as of right now my skid plate is covered in nasty fucking gear oil and I'm taking a godammed break,
[QUOTE=Tezzanator92;39365137]My car has three lighter sockets, two only come on when the key is turned, one is on all the time with a higher current rating. It's actually meant for the optional fridge.
Been a while since I got my electronics stuff out but here's my theory:
LEDs are Diodes, Diodes have a voltage drop across them, Assuming they are in series and it's reading the voltage after the LED chain, you'll be seeing a drop equal to the forward voltage of all the LEDs added up.[/QUOTE]
That does sound right.
Now, the only thing im still wondering is why my oem bulbs wont light up when i turn on the ignition.
Again, the bulbs and sockets work, the brake light comes on when i pull the e-brake.
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