Well, took me about 5 hours on one side.
They are discs, the piston on the side closest to the wheel was stuck, it still may be.
In the process I put air all through the brake lines so I need to bleed the brakes tomorrow.
Holy fuck i have almost no play in my steering now, old trackbar wqs worn quite bad on framr end
My autobro and I changed my boyfriend's oil today. Not a drop of oil was spilled. :dance:
Autobro comes back tonight to help me remove the front and rear suspension on the GTO.
Been lurking around here for some time now, but today is a special day, for me at least.
After double checking a whole bunch of wires all day me and my dad started up my bmw E36 compact for the first time since it got its new heart.
From a 316 to a 325 with the engine taken from a 2004 E46, this was my first swap ever on my first car.
[video=youtube;KMeqIfMXnt8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMeqIfMXnt8[/video]
Video quality isn't very good since its recorded on my phone.
That shirt was perfect for that amount of smoke pouring out. Well done swap too, now to tie up the wiring.
Spent half the day working on the 7. I've been retrofitting the illuminated interior and exterior door handles (something I started months ago but never completed due to the starter failure etc etc). So far I've got both front doors complete, and I'm just about to start on the back doors. The exterior handles light up with the courtesy lights (so if I unlock the car at night the handles will be visible) and the interior handle lights only come on when the headlights are engaged.
It looks pretty bloody good so far, and the lights fade smoothly with no need for a resistor or anything. Will post pics later once I finish the work!
[QUOTE=Sobek-;39457774]Spent half the day working on the 7. I've been retrofitting the illuminated interior and exterior door handles (something I started months ago but never completed due to the starter failure etc etc). So far I've got both front doors complete, and I'm just about to start on the back doors. The exterior handles light up with the courtesy lights (so if I unlock the car at night the handles will be visible) and the interior handle lights only come on when the headlights are engaged.
It looks pretty bloody good so far, and the lights fade smoothly with no need for a resistor or anything. Will post pics later once I finish the work![/QUOTE]
they're surprisingly useful at night actually
Ahh right, yours would have came with both of those as standard right?
Yep
[editline]3rd February 2013[/editline]
My project for tomorrow is figuring out why I have a super rough idle when cold. I think it's the intake gaskets, but it could be a spark plug, VCGs, coil pack, or injectors.
Easy things first - can you get the codes read? Could be real simple that way. If it's a rough idle when cold, I'd start with the intake gaskets - give it a spray around the intake gasket areas with some carby cleaner and see if you can get any changes in idle. Next on my list would be the throttle body gasket (same spray test, easy as) then the MAF intake boot - need to check extra diligently for little splits or tears.
If it were injectors or coils it would almost certainly be throwing some kind of code - spark plugs would only be an issue if they were REALLY old or totally soaked in oil from your leaking VCG's (I'm assuming they're leaking). You probably know all of this already but it's just worth mentioning to be safe. I had a rough start while cold and a simple spray test with some carby cleaner clearly identified my TB gasket and intake gaskets as being leaky. I replaced all of those but the car still started rough, and after a little more investigation I'm going to replace my fuel filter - I have a funny feeling about that.
Also, I just finished doing the door lights - what a nightmare. The rear right one was actually the easiest to install, but after I put it all together (tested fine) the LED strip suddenly decided to bug out. Wasn't about to pull the whole door apart again, so I snipped the wire and with only an inch or so to play with, poor-mans spliced another LED strip in with nothing but electrical tape (my soldering iron is dead right now). It works but, I'll have to re-do it :(
No pics, I'll do that tomorrow, I'm buggered...
When it's been idling for about a minute when it's 25 degrees it will start to misfire. If I turn it off for a few seconds and turn it back on, the CEL clears itself.
Well, pull codes. If that code is a misfire code that isn't a p0300 you'll at least know which cyl to begin diagnosis on.
It was p1341 which is multiple cylinder misfire.
My prototype Sparco seats arrived today, spent the entire evening installing them.
[IMG]http://filesmelt.com/dl/sparco.jpg[/IMG]
Didn't do much today.
Checked tire pressure, was ~32psi all around. Brought my back tires to 32psi, brought my fronts up to 35psi. Helped my steering a bit.
Looking into getting a bigger OEM sway bar, should be able to get one fairly cheap.
[QUOTE=dbk21894;39460297]When it's been idling for about a minute when it's 25 degrees it will start to misfire. If I turn it off for a few seconds and turn it back on, the CEL clears itself.[/QUOTE]
Ahh ok, that's interesting. A misfire only after running for a minute first... In that case, I'd probably scratch the TB/intake gaskets from the list, that really shouldn't cause a misfire like that.
When I was toying with replacement injectors on my 730 at one stage, the car would fire up and run good for around 30 to 50 seconds before it would start misfiring (long story, the injectors would NOT work properly on my car). They could easily be at fault, though I would expect if they were you would have codes stating to check the injector functionality on X or Y cylinders... not just a generic multiple misfire code.
Still, it's a good place to start.
[QUOTE=Sobek-;39467480]Ahh ok, that's interesting. A misfire only after running for a minute first... In that case, I'd probably scratch the TB/intake gaskets from the list, that really shouldn't cause a misfire like that.
When I was toying with replacement injectors on my 730 at one stage, the car would fire up and run good for around 30 to 50 seconds before it would start misfiring (long story, the injectors would NOT work properly on my car). They could easily be at fault, though I would expect if they were you would have codes stating to check the injector functionality on X or Y cylinders... not just a generic multiple misfire code.
Still, it's a good place to start.[/QUOTE]
yeah it was snowing today so I couldn't do any work on the car (don't have a garage just a car port)
I hope it doesn't turn out to be a larger issue, but knowing the car, it will be.
[editline]3rd February 2013[/editline]
I bought some seafoam and I'm going to run that through to see if it will make a difference.
[editline]3rd February 2013[/editline]
the other symptom is when it is doing its rough idle thing, when you step on the gas, it will almost stall unless you rev it above 2k rpm
Could be fuel delivery too - what's the history on your fuel filter... changed it yourself ever? What do you plan to do about the injectors? I'd either be prepared to have them tested (at some stupid price like $25 a piece!!) or buy another set at half the price to replace them with.
The fact it idles rough and seems to want to die when revved lightly makes me think about fuel delivery problem. Filter, pump, regulator, injectors, even the ecu controling delivery or component affecting it.
Could be a lean condition too. Vacuum leak would be the cause(Hear any hissing?), even a bad maf sensor could be doing it. but I'm just stating some causes, but I don't know what car he has nor much details on his problem.
2001 BMW 740i
what makes me think that it's not a fuel delivery issue is that once it warms out of the blue on the temp gauge the idle calms down
Live data -> live misfire data and also live a/f ratio data.
See if any one cyl is missing more than others. And also see if AF is on the rich side, pointing to a spark / stuck injector issue, or if it's to the lean side pointing to vac leak/ fuel delivery issue.
I'd consider hooking up INPA, check the smoothness readings on all cylinders and see which ones specifically are running rough. Move the coils from those cylinders to another, and see if the roughness follows suit. If it does, then either the coil pack/s are on their last legs, the spark plug boots are totally shot, or moisture is getting in there somewhere.
Finally drilled out my shock plates and put in my new u-bolts. What a pain in the ass. Everything in the rear suspension should be good now, tomorrow I put the tires on and get it back on the pavement.
Threw on my front struts and coils, ripped over to Jap's house, cruised to the skating rink, did some laps, went to eat at waffle house, played around on the highway coming home, chilled for a bit, and now I'm sitting here cursing at my finger I smashed when trying to pop loose one of the ball joints on my car earlier.
All in all, it's been a good day.
Welp, for the last 6 days my work on the accord has been stagnated, due to an "over zealous in its job" harmonic balancer bolt. So yesterday I ordered the tool to hold that damn thing in place while I, as others have told me, futilely try and remove said bastard bolt.
It's the only mother fucking thing stopping me from removing the heads and getting this fucker ready for the road.
And I'm probably going to need to get a 3/4in. breaker bar and 3/4\19mm impact socket to do it as anything smaller [i]will[/i] break and or split.
Before it's suggested, I have no access to any air tools and my battery impact is helpless against this bolt by far.
Going to add additional ground wires from the head to the firewall to improve electrical impedance.
Will try to experiment and see if I can cut up an ignition wire to be used as a ground wire with eyelet holes.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;39485440]Welp, for the last 6 days my work on the accord has been stagnated, due to an "over zealous in its job" harmonic balancer bolt. So yesterday I ordered the tool to hold that damn thing in place while I, as others have told me, futilely try and remove said bastard bolt.
It's the only mother fucking thing stopping me from removing the heads and getting this fucker ready for the road.
And I'm probably going to need to get a 3/4in. breaker bar and 3/4\19mm impact socket to do it as anything smaller [i]will[/i] break and or split.
Before it's suggested, I have no access to any air tools and my battery impact is helpless against this bolt by far.[/QUOTE]
Soak it with PB Blaster regularly, put it in 5th gear/Park and hold the brakes at the same time.
You won't get it with a battery impact. I broke the one on my B16A loose with just a whole lot of effort. You have to remember that it's not so much sheer force which will break a bolt/nut loose but a quick hard snap of power.
For the longest time I would use a breaker bar and spend all this effort taking my lug nuts off when I first started working on my car, my buddy said this was stupid and went and grabbed a 1/2 ratchet, popped it on and would just use his foot to step through it real quick.
Sometimes on a frozen bolt you can try to tighten it a little to get it to unfreeze, you really just have to keep working at it if it's never been broken loose.
got finished tearing down the 302
[img]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5698103/Cars/302%20build/2013-02-05%2013.34.28.jpg[/img]
[img]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5698103/Cars/302%20build/2013-02-05%2014.50.52.jpg[/img]
[img]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5698103/Cars/302%20build/2013-02-05%2015.19.22.jpg[/img]
looking REALLY good. never been bored out, perfect 4.000" bore, no taper. guy said it had 90k ish miles on the engine before he pulled it and it barely has any wear in it at all. $400 was a steal imo
[QUOTE=Scientwist;39485440]Welp, for the last 6 days my work on the accord has been stagnated, due to an "over zealous in its job" harmonic balancer bolt. So yesterday I ordered the tool to hold that damn thing in place while I, as others have told me, futilely try and remove said bastard bolt.
It's the only mother fucking thing stopping me from removing the heads and getting this fucker ready for the road.
And I'm probably going to need to get a 3/4in. breaker bar and 3/4\19mm impact socket to do it as anything smaller [i]will[/i] break and or split.
Before it's suggested, I have no access to any air tools and my battery impact is helpless against this bolt by far.[/QUOTE]
Did your local O'Rielly's not have the tool? That's where I picked mine up when I needed it.
tbh, I've been able to put a ratchet or breakover on most of them and smack it with a hammer really fast and hard. Being a [i]HANDA[/i] you can't do the ol' starter/breakover/ground trick, since the fucking motor spins all wacky woobly backwards and fuck.
