What did you work on today? (DIY pros ITT) - General

I cleaned up a couple of the grounds on my car and hooked up the valve cover ground correctly, trying to figure out why since I replaced my o2 sensor my car shifts really smooth for a while after I reset the ECU but progressively gets rough when letting off or putting on the throttle. Still getting bad gas mileage but my recent tank somehow net 22-23ish instead of 18-20ish even though I beat it harder IMO. Still waiting for some tuneup stuff from RockAuto that I haven't changed since I got the car 3 years ago. Next I might clean out my injectors/intake manifold or something since they've gotten incredibly noisy compared to when I bought it. I could probably check the timing too that the shop did 30k miles ago when they did my timing belt.. Hey bradley, do you know by chance if removing the ECU ground from the thermostat resets it?

[QUOTE=slayer3032;39490375]I cleaned up a couple of the grounds on my car and hooked up the valve cover ground correctly, trying to figure out why since I replaced my o2 sensor my car shifts really smooth for a while after I reset the ECU but progressively gets rough when letting off or putting on the throttle. Still getting bad gas mileage but my recent tank somehow net 22-23ish instead of 18-20ish even though I beat it harder IMO. Still waiting for some tuneup stuff from RockAuto that I haven't changed since I got the car 3 years ago. Next I might clean out my injectors/intake manifold or something since they've gotten incredibly noisy compared to when I bought it. I could probably check the timing too that the shop did 30k miles ago when they did my timing belt.. Hey bradley, do you know by chance if removing the ECU ground from the thermostat resets it?[/QUOTE] It shouldn't. It may reset once the ignition is turned on due to low voltage though. If you're trying to reset it, pull the negative battery cable and mash your brake pedal for 3 seconds. Or pull the battery fuse under the hood and do the same.

Hmm, okay. I was wondering since my o2 sensor simulator has been only intermittently keeping the p0420 at bay and by the time it came on it seemed like the harsh shifting came back after resetting the ECU. I didn't really want to reset it because it's nice not having the glaring yellow light on anymore since it decided to go off again and has been off for the last 100 miles or so. Normally if I reset it the check engine light comes on after about 70 miles then after another 200 goes off for a while then comes back lol. So if it did or didn't reset I won't really know.. Meh

Just wondering but how can I find the engine cross-member in my Corsa for jacking up the front of the car with? I don't wanna make the mistake of jacking up on something weak like the radiator etc. Here's an underside picture from the Haynes manual. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/IsiwytZ.png[/IMG] Does that beam labeled '14' connect to it just outside of the picture?

the beam labeled 14 is an OK jacking area.. I always jack where the control arm (3) meets the subframe (14) AKA a little below 14. Jacking on the balljoint where the strut meets the control arm is acceptable, too. As is the jacking points of the pinchweld area behind the wheel well.

[QUOTE=bradley;39488053]Did your local O'Rielly's not have the tool? That's where I picked mine up when I needed it. tbh, I've been able to put a ratchet or breakover on most of them and smack it with a hammer really fast and hard. Being a [i]HANDA[/i] you can't do the ol' starter/breakover/ground trick, since the fucking motor spins all wacky woobly backwards and fuck.[/QUOTE] Yeah, I was a bit put off on trying the starter trick. I had to order the 50mm hex tool because no one sells it around here for cheap. Amazon has it for 14 bux along with cheap shipping, but for the next day it still came out to less then what NAPA or vatozone has it for. once I get a new socket, I'm gonna give it another go. Seeing as I broke the last one. @slayer: Been hitting it every day in waiting with PB. I think its like 6 days now? ech....

Why would you ever jack from the subframe? Always go for frame rails aft of the rear subframe mounts. If you put a jack on the subframe, you can't take the subframe out.

Thing is, I have trouble jacking up one side of the car, holding it with a stand, then doing the other side. I need to be able to jack up the whole front car from one central place, then put the 2 jack stands at either side of the car (Where they're supposed to go).

[QUOTE=Adamhully;39495761]Thing is, I have trouble jacking up one side of the car, holding it with a stand, then doing the other side. I need to be able to jack up the whole front car from one central place, then put the 2 jack stands at either side of the car (Where they're supposed to go).[/QUOTE] Unfortunately, that often ends up being the nature of the beast. Invest in a pair of ramps. Seriously, best $50 I ever spent was on 12" ramps.

[QUOTE=Aetna;39496578]Unfortunately, that often ends up being the nature of the beast. Invest in a pair of ramps. Seriously, best $50 I ever spent was on 12" ramps.[/QUOTE] Not all circumstances will let you use ramps. Some times you need to remove the wheels wile its in the air. In that case jack it up from a good spot, I use the transmission housing or if the rear The rear diff or something as strong. (Close to number 7 in your diagram or Under the number 5)

You can jack from the subframe, usually there's a jacking point in the middle of the cars, centered. This as an example [IMG]http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa172/blackarrow98gp/liftpoints.png[/IMG]

okay so its doing this when its warm [url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=skvUT0pObgM[/url] watch the first 20 seconds i revved it to 800rpm and it varied by about 100rpm i put a can of seafoam in the gas and about 7/8ths of a can into the oil to get the injectors ungummed :whoknows: service done between june 2008 and april 2012 [IMG]http://puu.sh/1YBh8[/IMG] what I've done: replaced radiator replaced expansion tank replaced HP PS host replaced to and from PS reservoir hoses belts control arms and some other minor stuff that i can't remember now [editline]6th February 2013[/editline] i have absolutely no idea what is causing the rough idle and surging [editline]6th February 2013[/editline] its not the TB gaskets, did the test on them and I tested the intake manifold gaskets as well as I could (not very tbh) and didn't get any sort of a budge out of the idle

changing the valve covers gasket is worth 824$ along with a oil change? lol soo glad I learned to wrench on a car edit: the more I think about it, the more I realise that cars (as a passion) is not that bad. I mean, yes my supra engulf a shit ton of money but I now know everything about toyota's 80's and 90's engineering and a massive common sense on mechanic in general. I might have saved a few X0 000$ of maintenance in my life (future).

[QUOTE=ThermalArc;39500716]changing the valve covers gasket is worth 824$ along with a oil change? lol soo glad I learned to wrench on a car[/QUOTE] This I would know, audi's are known for blowing valve cover gaskets every 40k miles. And so far I've put on 2. :v:

Holy fuck DBK. You pay for all that shit? They pretty much from what I can see replaced items out of preventative maintenance, not necessity. Oil pan gaskets, MAF sensor? Reservoir tank 2 times? What lol. $1000 bill for water pump and thermostat change, oh man

the expansion tank was done 3 times actually manufacturing defect caused it to leak at the seams

[QUOTE=dbk21894;39500812]the expansion tank was done 3 times actually manufacturing defect caused it to leak at the seams[/QUOTE] You sir, in just that img of repair bills you excited what I have payed in total for my Aud and Cabrilot. Your crazy. [sp] All euro owners beware this is what he have to put up with. [/sp]

You had all that work done at the dealer? Ouch. $660 to replace the MAF is a real kick in the guts for instance. You could get a brand new VW MAF at about $150 and plug it in yourself :( Watching that video - I didn't realise the idle was jumping - but that's exactly what a dodgy ICV would do on a cold / cool start if it were significantly gummed up. Long story short the valve can't open and close smoothly, so it 'jumps' from an open position, gets too much air through, tries to close but being gummed up it hangs than 'jumps' back down. If that makes sense. Have you tried giving your ICV a thorough cleanout with some brake cleaner? If it's screwing with the air mixture it could be the cause of your misfires - specially if those misfires were hanging around cylinders 1,2,5 and 6. Sorry if you've mentioned the ICV before, I can't recall. I'd start there though... mine was doing this when I first purchased the car, and my ICV was utterly choked in gummy residue - I could spin the ICV in my hand and the valve inside wouldn't budge at all - it should tap around freely if it's clean and operating normally.

sweet now I have a place to start also FYI all work done in that image was by the previous owner and SHOP rates here are 105 an hour dealer is 125 [editline]6th February 2013[/editline] all the work done has been at a BMW specialist shop [editline]6th February 2013[/editline] also i have no idea where the ICV is lole [editline]6th February 2013[/editline] fuck e38s post 9/98 don't have ICVs as they're drive by wire

Ahhh yeah yours is a 2001 right? Bugger... would have been a pretty simple fix. Hmm, I'll have to think about this a bit more. Regarding your MAF, have you tried disconnecting it then starting the car? I would expect a lumpy idle but try that and see if at least the bouncing goes away. If it does, then essentially the MAF is buggered, but you might consider hitting it with a good spray of MAF cleaner (the bouncing idle has me thinking you've got unmetered air slipping in regularly from a gasket or seal somewhere, or the MAF may be failing and sending all the wrong data). It's not uncommon though, it could be a 2 day old MAF and still chuck in the towel. They're funny like that. *edit* There are so many various hoses, seals and potential vacuum leak areas... Wish your car was here, could check it over in a matter of minutes and probably source any leaks easy as. They're so easy to miss sometimes!

I could do that, but I don't have an obd reader handy. I'll do that when I can get one. (I hate driving around with a CEL on) Would engine temperature effect an MAF? Whatever is causing the surging is also causing the super rough idle when cold. When it was freezing the other day, the car actually stalled because the idle was so bad. [editline]7th February 2013[/editline] Could it be a vacuum leak?

A constant CEL and occasional stalling... easily symptoms of a bad MAF. And yes, engine or exterior temps can easily cause havok with such a sensitive sensor like that. I would definitely unplug the MAF one morning then fire it up - you might find the engine will shake a little, run a little rough maybe, but watch the RPM and see if it stops bouncing or just holds things more steadily. If it seems to be nice and stable, plug the MAF back in (while it's still running, it's safe) and if it's definitely buggered, you should instantly notice the motor start to struggle, or see a change in RPM or even just the overall sound of the engine. A bad MAF can seriously screw with things. And yes, it could still just as easily be a vacuum leak, but unplugging the MAF is such a simple test you'd be mad not to try it first. Vacuum leaks could be anywhere - plastic intake elbow, intake manifold gaskets, TB / PCV valve gaskets, brake booster hose... the list goes on. There is also a little piece of (really stupidly designed) rubber hose INSIDE the intake manifold running from the front of the TB to the rear of the PCV that perishes and screws with your idle big time. But that one needs the whole intake manifold pulled to fix - not a big deal in my opinion but if you haven't taken it all apart before it can be a bit daunting. Let's start with the MAF and go from there.

I'm going to figure this out this weekend. It's going to be warmer here so working outside will not be intolerable

Cool - I edited my last post and added some more info regarding possible vacuum leaks. But if you need any help or advice when you get stuck into it, hit me up. It's all pretty straight forward to test. Also, it's pretty obvious but just run around the engine bay with your ears and listen for any whooshing or hissing sounds - it can sound like a normal engine noise but a real bad vacuum leak can be very audible sometimes. The tiny vacuum hoses on the back of the PCV (on the very back of the intake manifold) are chronic failure points for vacuum leaks. On my car (an M60) the fuel pressure regulator is mounted up with the fuel rail (yours is on the fuel filter under the car) with a little 2 inch vacuum hose going to the PCV. Mine was terribly split and hissing madly, but I missed it for so long because of the noise of the engine it just didn't stand out - but when I grabbed it with my finger and heard + felt the difference... hah, you can bet I changed that one fast.

Thanks for the input. I'll do the MAF test then I'm going to Rube Goldberg a way to test for vacuum leaks. Probably some plastic wrap, a vacuum cleaner, and a stethoscope to listen for leaks.

Fair enough. To be honest though a $5 can of carby cleaner will do a plenty good enough job haha, it did for me!

Starting fluid is really great for finding leaks. Just spray it around where you think there could be leaks and listen for engine changes.

The bastard master pulley bolt is out and the heads are off. Seeping head gaskets on ALL 6 cylinders. So now I get to buy a gasket set, and get the heads checked for warpage. It's gonna cost more to get the heads new then get them planed + the gasket kit, which is all -oil pan gasket Oh, and if anyone here ever has to take the rear head off of a V6, make sure you have the engine supported and take off the rear engine mount, it WILL keep the head on because of a tiny little bit of the head rests under it. Oh god the cuts on my hands are numerous and painful.... See them nice dark rings 'round the water ports? [img]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/CAM00086_zps270f1143.jpg[/img] And the gasket. [img]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/CAM00085_zpsc6afe57f.jpg[/img] Thoughts?

[QUOTE=dbk21894;39502306]I could do that, but I don't have an obd reader handy. I'll do that when I can get one. (I hate driving around with a CEL on) Would engine temperature effect an MAF? Whatever is causing the surging is also causing the super rough idle when cold. When it was freezing the other day, the car actually stalled because the idle was so bad. [editline]7th February 2013[/editline] Could it be a vacuum leak?[/QUOTE] Coolant temperature sensor for one? Most vehicles have that and it sends a signal to the ECU depending on coolant temperature and handles air/fuel mixture. At least for my ECU. It usually costs around $10.

[QUOTE=Scientwist;39503243]See them nice dark rings 'round the water ports? [img]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/CAM00086_zps270f1143.jpg[/img] And the gasket. [img]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/CAM00085_zpsc6afe57f.jpg[/img] Thoughts?[/QUOTE] Looks like a rather normal head gasket off of a high mileage engine. Pics of the whole head gaskets would be nice, could probably determine better where your leak was. Combustion chamber on the left in that top pic, see the specks on the plug? Likely deposits from burnt coolant. Looks like there may have been some coolant passing through on the bottom right of that cc. Also, your heads use the same valve intake-side as a certain D15B, but I forget which one. Just a bit of useless knowledge I guess.