[QUOTE=Scientwist;39503243]The bastard master pulley bolt is out and the heads are off.
Seeping head gaskets on ALL 6 cylinders.
So now I get to buy a gasket set, and get the heads checked for warpage. It's gonna cost more to get the heads new then get them planed + the gasket kit, which is all -oil pan gasket
Oh, and if anyone here ever has to take the rear head off of a V6, make sure you have the engine supported and take off the rear engine mount, it WILL keep the head on because of a tiny little bit of the head rests under it.
Oh god the cuts on my hands are numerous and painful....
See them nice dark rings 'round the water ports?
[img]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/CAM00086_zps270f1143.jpg[/img]
And the gasket.
[img]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/CAM00085_zpsc6afe57f.jpg[/img]
Thoughts?[/QUOTE]
Looks healthy lol.
Uhh, there's tons you could do at this point. You could have the heads cleaned up, valve stem seals replaced, valve job, ect. You really want both surfaces which the head gasket mates to clean and straight though at the very least of course..
They probably aren't warped unless it had a overheating problem or was overheated. I'd talk to a reputable local machine shop and ask what they suggest doing from here as well and have them check the heads. I'd also suggest checking them yourself with a straight edge as well as the block.
I'd look up "Headgasket prep" on google as that seemed to pull up a good amount of information.
I haven't actually rebuilt a motor before so I haven't gone through what it actually takes.
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;39503313]Coolant temperature sensor for one? Most vehicles have that and it sends a signal to the ECU depending on coolant temperature and handles air/fuel mixture. At least for my ECU. It usually costs around $10.[/QUOTE]
My Diesel had fairly inconsistent Idle before I replaced the Coolant Temp sensor.
I'm guessing it tries to idle faster when it's cold?
On the subject of my car issues, I went out yesterday and thought that I'd, out of curiosity, Disconnect the MAF and see if I get my power back and see if my power surges would go.
So I did...
This car has NEVER felt this good, the acceleration is spot on, the massive flat spot in power has disappeared... Pulls like a train.
What's the thoughts on MAF cleaner? - I'm thinking I'll give the MAF and the connector's contacts a right good clean first, to see if that helps. If not I'll just get another MAF (Genuine one, though)
The seafoam might have actually helped. I didn't sit around for too long, but the rough idle when cold is much less severe with seafoam.
I pulled my MAF out (Had to take the whole tube out, mine doesn't remove from the side wall) and gave it a spray of Isopropanol contact cleaner. Slight improvement, but nowhere near as good as running with it unplugged and it still intermittently dropped out.
It's dark outside now so I'm going to wait until tomorrow and give it another go over with the spray.
I noticed in the sensor housing there were two Platinum wires. Why two?
Powersheeting
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/lBPEfD8.png[/IMG]
I thought I had a slice at the hose, turns out the fittings just shat themselves
i hate HP PS hoses
This was pretty much me the last time I tried doing some work on my car and nothing went to plan.
0:20
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=18cIS59_tco&list=LLeFKAdYLB0qWO6R8boULDbwo[/media]
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2488893/2013-02-07%2014.35.02.jpg[/t]
taking the head off my friends 740 in the parking lot and giving 0 fucks
[editline]7th February 2013[/editline]
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2488893/2013-02-07%2021.58.48.jpg[/t]
it wasn't too hard to identify the problem here
[QUOTE=opaali;39508841][t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2488893/2013-02-07%2014.35.02.jpg[/t]
taking the head off my friends 740 in the parking lot and giving 0 fucks
[editline]7th February 2013[/editline]
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2488893/2013-02-07%2021.58.48.jpg[/t]
it wasn't too hard to identify the problem here[/QUOTE]
Looks like you've got two small springs instead of one big spring. Might want to fix that.
[QUOTE=bradley;39503778]Looks like a rather normal head gasket off of a high mileage engine. Pics of the whole head gaskets would be nice, could probably determine better where your leak was.
Combustion chamber on the left in that top pic, see the specks on the plug? Likely deposits from burnt coolant. Looks like there may have been some coolant passing through on the bottom right of that cc.
Also, your heads use the same valve intake-side as a certain D15B, but I forget which one. Just a bit of useless knowledge I guess.[/QUOTE]
Pics incoming, thumbed for hugeness and so you can see 'em better. Sorry the the slight unfocusedness.
[thumb]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/DSCN1001_zpsa8e5c8bb.jpg[/thumb]
[thumb]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/DSCN0999_zpsb8d49ee8.jpg[/thumb]
[thumb]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/DSCN0997_zps2c796434.jpg[/thumb]
[thumb]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/Takie_Kaio/DSCN1002_zpsf81b749b.jpg[/thumb]
In the middle pic, looks like... top right cylinder and left center one were seeping a bit to me. That's about all I can make out.
Heads look very good. I'd hit them with some cleaner and slap some new head gaskets on. When you get it back together, flush the shit out of your cooling system, it looks nasty.
[editline]8th February 2013[/editline]
Also it looks like that thing was running synthetic for well over the period it was meant to be run. Do you know the oil change history?
[QUOTE=bradley;39511975]In the middle pic, looks like... top right cylinder and left center one were seeping a bit to me. That's about all I can make out.
Heads look very good. I'd hit them with some cleaner and slap some new head gaskets on. When you get it back together, flush the shit out of your cooling system, it looks nasty.
[editline]8th February 2013[/editline]
Also it looks like that thing was running synthetic for well over the period it was meant to be run. Do you know the oil change history?[/QUOTE]
Sadly I don't, the last owner lost it to a PD and it got sold in an auction. I got it from the guy that got it from there.
The oil smells pretty bad though. Seeing as it has run synthetic do I have to continue using it or can I change to normal
oil? I've been told you cant switch back after running synthetic. Heh yeah, the cooling system is pretty gross. The block drain plugs were clogged something nasty.
Use whatever oil you want. If you drain it out you can switch to whatever oil you like. There's no reason to not switch back to normal oil after using synthetic, it's mostly mumbo jumbo spread by backyard mechanics. The reason I don't like synthetic is because it can eventually eat away at things -- like composite gaskets -- if left in an engine for too long, or left sitting for a while.
[QUOTE=bradley;39513604]The reason I don't like synthetic is because it can eventually eat away at things -- like composite gaskets -- if left in an engine for too long, or left sitting for a while.[/QUOTE]
Not because it's expensive, too? Haha
It's nice to have responsive and light steering. Now it's super feather light; takes some time to get used to. Very stable under high speeds now as well.
Fluid is circulating fully now; reservoir just burped up all sorts of dark gunk
[QUOTE=clutch2;39514234]Not because it's expensive, too? Haha[/QUOTE]
IMO, there's no real use for synth unless you're going to track it everyday and require the specialized oils with more resistance for shearing and degredation. Synths are also offered in weird viscosities which is also a plus. For daily driving and some spirited runs, I find conventional to be the standard. (Also because synth made this 89 leak like crazy out of everything).
[QUOTE=clutch2;39514234]Not because it's expensive, too? Haha[/QUOTE]
The standard oil I prefer is more expensive than most synthetics :I
If I had a choice, I'd only use Slick50. My dad used it in his van when we built his 350 and it never broke in, some ~10,000 miles later It burned down in it's new-ish engine prime. :(
Something in the dash shorted fiercely, engine was fine.
Does Slick50 never break down or something?
MAF Thoroughly cleaned.
No change, Still no power with intermittent surges.
So why, when unplugged, does the car run great?
To further confuse things, I'm no expert but this graph seems to show a functioning MAF (Though I could be mistaken)
At around data point 920, the power suddenly came back for a brief moment.
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/286964/fpdrop/MAF.png[/t]
I have had my truck since 09 and I havent change the coolant. Is that bad? I haven't had any overheating problems. I saw the coolant flush thing and looked it up and kind of went, woops.
[QUOTE=Tezzanator92;39515845]MAF Thoroughly cleaned.
No change, Still no power with intermittent surges.
So why, when unplugged, does the car run great?
To further confuse things, I'm no expert but this graph seems to show a functioning MAF (Though I could be mistaken)
At around data point 920, the power suddenly came back for a brief moment.
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/286964/fpdrop/MAF.png[/t][/QUOTE]
In my yellow BMW, I had a very similar issue. It turned out to be o2 sensors. "When a MAF is used in conjunction with an oxygen sensor, the engine's air/fuel ratio can be controlled very accurately. The MAF sensor provides the open-loop controller predicted air flow information (the measured air flow) to the ECU, and the oxygen sensor provides closed-loop feedback in order to make minor corrections to the predicted air mass."
You may have already told us that you've replaced the o2 sensors, but I couldn't find any posts on it, so I figured I'd speak up just to be sure. On my yellow beamer the car would run like piss with the MAF plugged in, but only when the car was warm (in open loop). It would run fine in closed loop.
[QUOTE=Aetna;39517673]In my yellow BMW[/QUOTE]
Woooooaaaaah, yellow BMW? I remember that car. Jesus that seems like forever ago.
[QUOTE=bradley;39518214]Woooooaaaaah, yellow BMW? I remember that car. Jesus that seems like forever ago.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, it really does. I was still with my ex back then, jesus.
Hell, I still have a picture of her holding the paper that claimed I was releasing the car from the tow yard. I forgot she had those weird stubby fingernails. Amazing rack though. I miss those tits.
[img]http://filesmelt.com/dl/IMG_1606.jpg[/img]
Ew. Man fingers.
[QUOTE=bradley;39519395]Ew. Man fingers.[/QUOTE]
Nail biter. Mine look the same.
[QUOTE=bradley;39519395]Ew. Man fingers.[/QUOTE]
They were definitely not that bad wrapped around my penis.
Any ideas on how to remove this pile of scrot radio? It's aftermarket but I want a different one, I can't see any key holes to release it.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/gxVJlx8.jpg?1[/IMG]
The keys slip into the sides. Try using two butter knives. Copper hangers work too.
Thanks I'll give that a try, need I bother disconnecting the battery? The radio has no power when the key is removed.
[QUOTE=Adamhully;39520363]Thanks I'll give that a try, need I bother disconnecting the battery? The radio has no power when the key is removed.[/QUOTE]
It's unlikely you'll hurt anything. Just pull it out and disconnect the wiring harness and antennae.
Id remove the battery for reinsurance purposes. If you mess up anything, your be looking for fuses your entire life.
I was re-installing my cd changer, stripping back the plug to solder in a new plug. Completely forgot about removing the batter and I apparently got to the positive. Ohhh god that fell. 3 days later come to find out I had to replace 8 fuses in total. and 2 of which were cock hard as shit to get to.
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