[QUOTE=DPKiller;39520648]Id remove the battery for [u]reinsurance[/u] purposes.[/QUOTE]
Fucking christ retake grade school or something please DP
If i want to change the bracket do I have to remove all of the housing around the knobs etc?
Is that a Corsa? I've installed a radio in one a while back, but that display and hazard button looks familiar.
Once the radio is out, the metal bracket will have small tabs bent out that are holding it in, bend them back to remove. Or if you don't care about it, crush it until it's small enough to remove.
That plastic part that incorporates the small compartment at the bottom MAY need pulling out after if you need more access to the wiring harness but more than likely it can stay in. The Corsa I did was a pig for that.
The part with the knobs on will never need to be taken out.
Buying toggle switches so I can retro-mod the miata's interior.
[url]http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/402970-post78.html[/url]
[quote][img]http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q172/kevlar_carbonfiber/IMG_5391.jpg[/img][/quote]
[QUOTE=bradley;39520726]Fucking christ retake grade school or something please DP[/QUOTE]
Can you please stop feeding rice to your cars?
I mean shit, at least they deserve some clear coat.
Too bad you like the [u]reinsurance[/u] of being a poor fag. :v:
[sp] One poor fag to another, It's not how you use it its how you work it. [/sp]
[QUOTE=Tezzanator92;39520804]Is that a Corsa? I've installed a radio in one a while back, but that display and hazard button looks familiar.
Once the radio is out, the metal bracket will have small tabs bent out that are holding it in, bend them back to remove. Or if you don't care about it, crush it until it's small enough to remove.
That plastic part that incorporates the small compartment at the bottom MAY need pulling out after if you need more access to the wiring harness but more than likely it can stay in. The Corsa I did was a pig for that.
The part with the knobs on will never need to be taken out.[/QUOTE]
Yeah it is, I'm told I shouldn't worry too much about the wiring harness because the conversion to aftermarket is already done, so it's pretty much Plug and Play. As long as I can get the metal bracket out and the new one in without removing everything around it, I can do it myself.
Looking at the Haynes manual it's so much of a cock about you actually need to start from the handbrake housing and work your way up.
So I cleaned off some old gasket shit off the heads and block learning that graphite stains pretty good. Cleaned out some shit from the water jackets too, which was alot and soft thank god. Then I pulled the water pump off just to make sure there wasn't a bunch of shiot there too, there wasn't but there was one bit of collective "crap" build up on the front port, cleaned it out.
The water pump is practally brand new and it's bolt were RED loctited in. FUCK RED LOCTITE, PB to the rescue.
WDd' the cylinders just a tiny bit to keep the rust away.
[QUOTE=Tezzanator92;39515845]MAF Thoroughly cleaned.
No change, Still no power with intermittent surges.
So why, when unplugged, does the car run great?
To further confuse things, I'm no expert but this graph seems to show a functioning MAF (Though I could be mistaken)
At around data point 920, the power suddenly came back for a brief moment.
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/286964/fpdrop/MAF.png[/t][/QUOTE]
...If the MAF is buggered, then cleaning it won't fix that. General rule of thumb is that if your car runs better with the MAF unplugged, then either the MAF or the wiring loom it uses is rooted in some fashion.
As also mentioned the o2 sensors could be at fault too but, from personal experience I do seriously doubt that. What you really need to do is either find another MAF you can borrow to test with, or just replace it altogether. They're pretty straightforward things to diagnose really - they either work or they don't.
Well, here's some stupid shit I cooked up on my days off. The Takeyari pipes are out... and the, um, whatever this is is in.
The rice car is getting ricier
[IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/DSC00450_zpsfad30474.jpg[/IMG]
Cozied up while it snows.
[IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/clutch1234/DSC00451-1_zps9042b54e.jpg[/IMG]
[QUOTE=Adamhully;39521028]Yeah it is, I'm told I shouldn't worry too much about the wiring harness because the conversion to aftermarket is already done, so it's pretty much Plug and Play. As long as I can get the metal bracket out and the new one in without removing everything around it, I can do it myself.
Looking at the Haynes manual it's so much of a cock about you actually need to start from the handbrake housing and work your way up.[/QUOTE]
It depends. Like on my car, the wiring plug was connected to the car's harness using it's own proprietary plug. I couldn't use it for the newer radio.
If it was wired correctly and properly, you will see the two wires for each speaker in your car. It's just a matter of cutting the old plug out and crimping the new one in the existing harness to work for a new radio.
Speaking of which, this radio already busted it's AUX jack. Now it wiggles and cuts out sound. GG China radio
[QUOTE=Adamhully;39520294]Any ideas on how to remove this pile of scrot radio? It's aftermarket but I want a different one, I can't see any key holes to release it.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/gxVJlx8.jpg?1[/IMG][/QUOTE]
You can tear apart this whole thing
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/h6voNu1.jpg[/IMG]
Its not Original :P
The original has a DoubleDin head unit
Finally got a vid of the illuminated door handles I installed last weekend. If you recall I also installed the interior illuminated handles at the same time but I haven't got a video of that - not really something that stands out much either so I don't think I'll bother. These things are awesome at night, and I might yet tint the LED strip to make the colour a bit warmer... we'll see;
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnes7V3jS_I[/media]
[QUOTE=woolio1;39509426]Looks like you've got two small springs instead of one big spring. Might want to fix that.[/QUOTE]
[t]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2488893/2013-02-07%2021.59.31.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=Sobek-;39526404]Finally got a vid of the illuminated door handles I installed last weekend. If you recall I also installed the interior illuminated handles at the same time but I haven't got a video of that - not really something that stands out much either so I don't think I'll bother. These things are awesome at night, and I might yet tint the LED strip to make the colour a bit warmer... we'll see;
~vidya~[/QUOTE]
One thing you may want to check out is :
[url]http://www.plasmaglow.com/afterburner-led-ground-signal-kit/[/url]
Its like ground effects, but they sync up with your signals instead
[IMG]http://www.plasmaglow.com/wp-content/themes/display/framework/includes/timthumb.php?src=/images/products_uck_afterburner.jpg&h=273&w=610&zc=1[/IMG]
Y DONT U USING JEK STANDS OMG 20 PARAGRAPH RANT WTF????
seriously I won,t tell bradley how to wrench on motorized chairs, but jackstand are a must in my book, they saved my ass from a not leveled driveway multiple times.
jackstand <3
Bradly, why U no disk brake in back?
I thought drums were evil sorcerers from *Mt. OW FUCK?
*Because we hurt ours selfs at least once doing those things.
Okay, started off something like this
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/94D866F1-433A-4BCE-807B-328F3A96AB7A-4122-0000062CF10CDA32.jpg[/thumb]
And then after some shovelling
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/2EED4A35-5F63-4EE4-8419-02BCEC0DBDDA-992-000000BAD5D23815_zpscc9206ba.jpg[/thumb]
Took me 3 shovels (2 broke, one of them broke twice)
[thumb]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/Lawblind/300CFBE7-6DCA-45BC-A891-26E1E63779D7-992-000000BADADAB7FE_zps316c931c.jpg[/thumb]
Shoveled even more after that, should be out of there and in the garage tomorrow.
06 Cobalt, issue: Key won't turn from Acc to off sometimes.
Had this car in my shop today for a remote start. The lady brought it up and I told her I'd look into the key interlock issue.
Mind you, this had been to the dealer a couple times for this problem, supposedly.
Found a rod out of place in the shifter mechanism that is supposed to push on a little button that grounds a wire in park that activates the key interlock solenoid on the key tumbler assembly.... fixed it and ohh mad gah it works like it's supposed to and she wanted to lick me head to toe she was so happy.
Someone please teach dealers the proper way to diagnose issues to rectify them.
Haven't done too much lately.
Rear diff felt like it was moving a little, so I checked the mounts. If I put a screw driver in the rear mounts and pried up, I could move the rear end quite a bit. More than I'd expect anyways.
I took my jack, put it under the rear end. Jacked it up until the mounts bottomed out (it took almost lifting the back of the car off the ground to do it.) I took two rubber pieces, probably 1/3" thick and 2 1/2" long, and stuck them in the slits on the back of my mounts. They barely fit in there with the mounts open all the way. Then I lowered the jack. The rear end seems to be held in a lot firmer than before. I feel quite an improvement while driving, mostly in throttle response. There's two more mounts on the front of the diff I will also do some time, they're just not as simple to work with. I also need a longer ratchet.
[QUOTE=Scientwist;39533144]Bradly, why U no disk brake in back?
I thought drums were evil sorcerers from *Mt. OW FUCK?
*Because we hurt ours selfs at least once doing those things.[/QUOTE]
It's a base model. Everything on it was either to save weight or money, so it had rear drums from the factory. I have discs, I've just been far too lazy to pull them from my parts car.
also lel at you guys telling me to use stands. I had a stand under the crossbeam the whole time, and the jack wasn't there. That was right as I finished, the car was too low with just the stand to get the wheels back on so I had to jack it up first. And I took a pic because why the hell not, I just finished.
The stand (as with all the tools) are off to the right/back, off-frame. :v
[editline]10th February 2013[/editline]
no automerge bcos lost internet for two hours ffffffff
[QUOTE=cNova;39525992]You can tear apart this whole thing
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/h6voNu1.jpg[/IMG]
Its not Original :P
The original has a DoubleDin head unit[/QUOTE]
So I can just pull or pry it out? There are no screws?
Yes, it's not supposed to be there, the original head unit uses screws it seems (don't ask me how, it just does). Just grab a screwdriver and pry it out.
[URL="http://www.corsasport.co.uk/board/viewthread.php?tid=87841"]Sauce[/URL]
Awesome, thanks!
Also... the new headunit you buy should come with those key to take it out.
[img]http://i.seimg.net/images/668171/main/ct22pi01.jpg[/img]
[QUOTE=Gulen;39540325]Yes, it's not supposed to be there, the original head unit uses screws it seems (don't ask me how, it just does). Just grab a screwdriver and pry it out.
[URL="http://www.corsasport.co.uk/board/viewthread.php?tid=87841"]Sauce[/URL][/QUOTE]
Those little grub screws just cover the holes, you then have to shove the radio keys in (or use 4 screwdrivers) and it will release and pop out.
I lost half of my top brake light lens in a car wash. Got it back, glued it back on with PVC adhesive.
Here's hoping it holds.
Can anyone recommend a PC based scan tool? Price range anywhere between $100-200.
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