• What did you work on today? (DIY pros ITT)
    5,879 replies, posted
For those that dont remember, i was rear ended 2 years ago pretty hard. Was the other drivers fault. My seats mechanism was messed up but not worth replacing at the time. Its slowly gotten worse and the back and bottom wobble pretty bad. Went to a junkyard, thinking "oh, ill grab the drivers seat and a switch blank off the subaru impreza they just put in" Bring socket set, adjustable wrench, and leatherman(is that the name? flips open, has pliars, screw driver, etc.) get to the car at the back of the lot 4 bolts hold the seat on, one is rusted solid socket doesnt work, i try filing it and putting the adjustables on it, nothing. I keep filing at the bolt for over an hour, finally a mexican shows up, he speaks no english, but offers me a hack saw. i cut the end of the rail off, grab the seat and my things, and walk out. I ended up combining my old seat and that one to get one good seat. I put my combined seat in my car, ohmygod Its like heaven No more wobbling, the seat adjusts right, the seat sits more level
Glad to hear you still got that old subaru.
[QUOTE=>VLN<;39543920]Glad to hear you still got that old subaru.[/QUOTE] 215,6xx miles and still going pretty good. I dont plan on selling it any time soon. Has a few issues, nothing too major (battery light wont come on, when its below freezing and i put a load on the motor before it warms up theres a little knock, steering rack is a bit worn)
Dropped the Jetta off for a new timing belt (and water pump) today. Total cost is less than $600 (after market parts) and they said it should be ready by tomorrow!
Shit you should NEVER ever ever ever use aftermarket water pump/timing belt. Most never come close to OEM quality which is necessary. Your timing belt breaks, your engine is toast 99% of the time. Water pump is a pain in the ass to replace if it fails.
I have never (aside from a genuine Mopar timing belt on my sister's Neon) used an OEM timing belt. Gatorback or Gates that shit, far better than OEM.
So the heater core in my sentra has been leaking... :suicide: [t]http://i47.tinypic.com/2ym68vn.jpg[/t] This is gonna be a bitch, whole dash has to come out... starting to tear everything apart [t]http://i47.tinypic.com/2m61jrp.jpg[/t] [t]http://i46.tinypic.com/n3ozo9.jpg[/t] That's as far as I've gotten for tonight, gonna hopefully get the old core out tomorrow...
[QUOTE=>VLN<;39545057]Shit you should NEVER ever ever ever use aftermarket water pump/timing belt. Most never come close to OEM quality which is necessary. Your timing belt breaks, your engine is toast 99% of the time. Water pump is a pain in the ass to replace if it fails.[/QUOTE] We didn't plan on spending an extra $300 for factory parts. Aftermarket timing belt > 13 year old timing belt with 40,000 miles
Aftermarket is a vague term for the timing belt, a lot of belts manufacturer are as recommendable as the car maker ones.
[QUOTE=>VLN<;39545057]Shit you should NEVER ever ever ever use aftermarket water pump/timing belt. Most never come close to OEM quality which is necessary. Your timing belt breaks, your engine is toast 99% of the time. Water pump is a pain in the ass to replace if it fails.[/QUOTE] Timing belts are only made by a couple of companies. The OEM ones are even made by the same companies, they just happen to be branded for the OEM purpose.
[QUOTE=>VLN<;39545057]Shit you should NEVER ever ever ever use aftermarket water pump/timing belt. Most never come close to OEM quality which is necessary. Your timing belt breaks, your engine is toast 99% of the time. Water pump is a pain in the ass to replace if it fails.[/QUOTE] Yes and No. Gates has some nice quality products. And IMO I cant tell the difference from a Gates Belt,Water Pump or Belt Tensioner from a OEM Audi one. Also revised parts are better! Like for instance that jetta might have came stock with a plastic water pump, a new revised one will be metal and also gates will be metal. Personal preference.
So how nice is this, I go to do the front brakes and literally the wheel is so tight that my dad and I can't get it off. Hell using a X I couldn't get a nut loose while standing on it. So what do I do now? I don't have any air tools.
[QUOTE=Siminov;39546541]So how nice is this, I go to do the front brakes and literally the wheel is so tight that my dad and I can't get it off. Hell using a X I couldn't get a nut loose while standing on it. So what do I do now? I don't have any air tools.[/QUOTE] Biggest socket wrench you can find with a lug that will fit your wheel bolt + a 1-2 ft long pipe. Have fun. If push comes to shove jump on the mother fucker. [t]http://www.gatehousesupplies.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/craftsman11.jpg[/t]
M16 or PB blaster + X cross + 4 feet tube that cango over the whole handle. Power of ten suns.
[QUOTE=WolvesSoulZ;39545811]Aftermarket is a vague term for the timing belt, a lot of belts manufacturer are as recommendable as the car maker ones.[/QUOTE] Yeah, but I think he is having this work done at pepboys? I don't expect high quality anything from them.
I don't know, I don't even know what pepboy is.
[QUOTE=Siminov;39546541]So how nice is this, I go to do the front brakes and literally the wheel is so tight that my dad and I can't get it off. Hell using a X I couldn't get a nut loose while standing on it. So what do I do now? I don't have any air tools.[/QUOTE] Buy an air compressor and get an impact, duh. Or use a breaker bar and jump on it.
[QUOTE=>VLN<;39545057]Shit you should NEVER ever ever ever use aftermarket water pump/timing belt. Most never come close to OEM quality which is necessary. Your timing belt breaks, your engine is toast 99% of the time. Water pump is a pain in the ass to replace if it fails.[/QUOTE] Take it from me. Heavy duty use parts should never be skimped. Previous owner and his crap fan clutch blew up everything. Costing me $$$. [QUOTE=Squad;39546206]Timing belts are only made by a couple of companies. The OEM ones are even made by the same companies, they just happen to be branded for the OEM purpose.[/QUOTE] Like how Nissan uses Gates belts from the factory. Even most of its parts and sensors are aftermarket; IE Aisin Inc, JECS, Calsonic, NTK, etc.
[QUOTE=>VLN<;39545057] Your timing belt breaks, your engine is toast 99% of the time. [/QUOTE] chehn master rehs
Started fixing up my Aero after the winters breakdowns. I got the windshield replaced and I've put a 3" full flow pipe from the catalyst, removed the center muffler and put a simmons muffler right before the endpipe. Next thing to do is create a mudflap where the old airfilter box is and replace the original with an open airfilter. Step 1 or Step 2 software is on the todo list as well. Anyone got experience with Quaife differentials? pros and cons? [QUOTE=Siminov;39546541]So how nice is this, I go to do the front brakes and literally the wheel is so tight that my dad and I can't get it off. Hell using a X I couldn't get a nut loose while standing on it. So what do I do now? I don't have any air tools.[/QUOTE] Hit the bolt with a hammer a few times and try again. Probably sealed with air tools then rusted stuck. Use copper paste when putting the bolts back on.
[QUOTE=Hoffa1337;39547963]Anyone got experience with Quaife differentials? pros and cons?[/QUOTE] Some people swear by them, personally I don't care for them. They're a bit more expensive (in my area of use) than some other similar quality products and I don't really see why, they're not astoundingly great quality so the price jack (up to $200 or more than other LSDs for the same application) is kind of strange to me. Personally I'd go mfactory if I were to get an LSD, but I don't know if that's an option for you as I don't know what it's going in, and all applications are different. Personally I prefer a locked differential, but for some types of racing (Read: Autocross) that's a no-go unless you're a damn good driver or have a short wheelbase to work with. Generally helical is the way to go for autocross though... [editline]11th February 2013[/editline] tl;dr Pros: -Well-known -Good customer service (as far as I've seen...) -Little to no fuss out of their helical diffs Cons: -Why so much extra -a bit heavier than some other helical LSDs
I currently got 400nm on the front wheels and after the tuning I'll have around 450. But when I floor the pedal the original diff is having a hard time keep the car straight so it weers off in some direction depending on how the differential distributes the torque I also feel that it puts power on the wrong wheel in sharp turns, I want to be able to take corners and still have a good push forward. From what I've read mechanical differentials distributes the power better and keeps your gearbox alive a little longer. I haven't really found any other brands that seem to be cut for the job. Like you said, Quaife is fucking expensive and goes for €600-800 from the retailers in my area.
Well, what's the diff going in?
[QUOTE=Siminov;39546541]So how nice is this, I go to do the front brakes and literally the wheel is so tight that my dad and I can't get it off. Hell using a X I couldn't get a nut loose while standing on it. So what do I do now? I don't have any air tools.[/QUOTE] Got the same problem with one bolt on at least one wheel on my mom's van, every time I go to change them up (going from winter to summer or the other way around), so there's two sets off bolts. I do have air tools, though, but it just goes at it, not seeming like it does anything. I've tried to stand on an X as well, and I'm not a small guy (weigh about 111 kg), hell I even tried to jump on it. After a lot of rounds of this (jumping on it, standing on it and using my air tools), they finally come off. Anyone got tips of how to fix this? I put them on the last two times, using my own tools/X, so it's not a garage's fault.
[QUOTE=bradley;39550041]Well, what's the diff going in?[/QUOTE] Saab 9-5 Aero 2001
Eesh, yeah. Quaife might be the only option.
coolant is leaking still apparently have to take it back in to get the warranty work done oh and now my steering wheel lock does not engage fuck me i bought a lemon
[QUOTE=dbk21894;39552153]coolant is leaking still apparently have to take it back in to get the warranty work done oh and now my steering wheel lock does not engage fuck me i bought a european vehicle.[/QUOTE] ftfy.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;39554941]ftfy.[/QUOTE] No, I was an idiot when I bought it. I didn't get a PPI because I'm a moron. That and the shop that serviced it that everyone raves about told me that it didn't need a PPI. I guess that's just something that I know I need to do the next time.
Ehhhh, I can tell you almost everyone here most likely bought there car without a title check. Your BMW might just be having a bad case of the wiggles, or the shop is destroying your car for you. DIY and Do It Right!
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